
Avenue at Palm Beach 




Pine Lands 



A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

FOR TOURISTS, SPORTSMEN 
AND SETTLERS 



BY 
HARRISON RHODES AND 
MARY WOLFE DUMONT 



WITH A CHAPTER ON THE INLAND WATER- 
WAYS FROM NEW YORK TO KEY WEST 

/ 
Three Maps and Numerous Illustratioiis 




NEW YORK 

DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY 

1912 



/-J/ 6 



4 



Copyright, 1911, 

By dodd. mead and company 



17 

£CI.A327442 . 



PREFACE 

Probably anyone who starts to write of a 
familiar and favorite region does so with the 
hope of saying everything that could be said 
upon the subject. The authors of the present 
volume have long since renounced any such hope, 
though the work has been considerably expanded 
beyond the limits first planned. They hope, 
however, to have said at least a little upon all 
Floridian subjects, and to offer io their readers 
a more comprehensive survey of the State than 
is otherwise available. 

There have been good guide books to Florida, 
but they are now somewhat antiquated. There 
are many delightful books upon special aspects 
of the I'loridian Peninsula; they are mostly to 
be found upon the shelves of libraries now, where 
it is hoped this present volume may encourage 
many readers to go to find them, — to which 
c ikI a bil)liography of works upon the State has 

II compiled. 

i his volume is the result of long acquaintance 
with I^'lorida ; of pleasant h(jurs of desultory read- 
ing about it, and of a great affection for it. While 
the writers have tried to restrain any such en- 
thusiasm as seems to animate the authors of the 
railway guides and folders, they would admit 
frankly at the outset that they love the I'lori- 
dian land and hope to communicate to their read- 
ers some of the beauty and romance they find 
there. 



PREFACE 

Thanks for assistance in the preparation of 
the book are gratefully made to James Turner 
Butler, Oscar T. Conklin, Washington E. Con- 
nor, Gaston Drake, Arthur C. Freeman, W. H. 
Green, Dr. John Gifford, W. W. Griest, W. H. 
Harris, James E. Ingraham, Geo. F. Miles, Dr. 
A. Leight Monroe, Mrs. Kirk (Mary Barr) Mun- 
roe, Claude J. Nolan, B. J. Pacetti, Capt. H. E. 
Sewall and Francis E. Winthrop. 



CONTENTS 

PACE 

Preface 

Florida, the "Land of I'loweks" ... i 

History and Antiquities 8 

Topography 47 

Climate 53 

Si'OkTS -ji 

ROUTES THROL'CII l-I.()Rin\ 

Jacksonville SV 

Jacksonville to Fernandina 104 

Jacksonville to Maypokt 106 

Jacksonville to Key West 108 

I Jacksonville to St. Augustine . .108 

II St. Aufi^iistine to Palm r>cach . 125 

III Palm Beach to Miami ... 169 

IV Miami to Key West .... 190 
V History of the Florida East Coast 

Railway 207 

VI The Fverpladcs 210 

The St. John's River: Jacksonville t<> F\- 

TERPRiSE '19 

The Ocklawaha River: Palatka to Silver 

Springs ^^^ 

Jacksonviiii i(» Tai.lahassee and Pr\?A- 

COLA . . ^}i7 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Jacksonville to Tampa 253 

I Via the Atlantic Coast Line . . 253 

II Via the Seaboard Air Line . . . 274 

Jacksonville to St. Petersburg .... 303 

Jacksonville to Fort Myers 289 

Jacksonville to Burnett's Lake and Perry 316 

The Caloosahatchee River 301 

Waycross to Port Tampa 318 

INLAND WATERWAYS 

New York to Key West, Fla 323 

New York to Charleston, S. C. . . 329 
Charleston, S. C, to Jacksonville . . 347 

Jacksonville to Miami 355 

Miami to Key West 378 

Hotel List . 395 

Women's Clubs in Florida 422 

Bibliography 425 

Index 437 



A LIST OF ERRATA 



PaKc 72- 


inc 14— for ' 


' town " read " towns." 


8j — 


" 34- * 


* zonito" read "iKiniio." 


• 83 - 


•• 14 


• Below in Pumpkin " read ' Ht- 
low Pumpkin Key." 


■^J 


■ -"J 


' Romcano " read "Romant*" 


• 151 — 


" 30— •• 


•McWilliams" read "Mr Wil- 
liam." 


• KO — 


5 — 


* James " read "GeorRc." 


170- 


i(»— ' 


* canal " read " coral." 


171 


I.? 


• Lantana City at the head " read 
" Lantana City to the head " 


• 192 — 


• 21 — •' 


" Miss F. L. Nugent * read 
"Mrs. F. L. Nugent* 


22Z — 


• 13— •• 


"pool is most attractive" read 
"baths and pool are most a! 
tractive." 


" A'J - 


io — 


' rich " read " riches." 


•• 291 — 


• ,4_ •• 


' then " read " also." 


• 292 — 


•• 20— " 


* the " read " their." 


* .130 — 


•• 6— •• 


' pond " read " Point." 


• 331 — 


•* 22 — " 


"Beam Iwats " rea<I " B«iat > 
beam." 


• 3X^ — 


* 31 — '" 


" Bay " read " City." 


'• 338- 


• 7- " 


• rural * read " renal " 


• 349 — 


" 6 — •• 


• is " read " are." 


• 358- 


• 25— '* 


" at " read " a." 


• 362- 


" 23 — " 


* Stretch ' read " kra<u 


• 372 — 


" 27— " 


" point " read " mound " 


•• 373 - 


17 — omit 


the word ' light." 



MAPS 

Florida In f^ock'Ct in back cover 

T'>'ind Waterways, New York 

Charleston, S. C. Fachtfi f>af^c 330 

Inland Waterways. Charles- 

n, S. C, to Key West, Fla. 350 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Avenue at Palm Beach . Frontispiece 

Sir Francis Drake's Attack 
on St. Aujjustine F acinic pag_c 8 

Rihaut Treatinj^ with Indians 9 

rinc Lands 18 

The Suwanee River ... 19 

The Cathedral 30 

Fort Marion 31 

In Old St. Au).;nsline ... 40 

Doorway of Hotel l\)nce de 
de Leon " \\ 

Osceola ** \6 

Death of Waxe-Hadjo . .\j 

At the Mouth of the Miami 
River 

Pineapple Plantation ... 

Thompson Creek, near Or- 
mond 

A Sugar Plantation ... 

" Gippinp " on the Ocklawaha 

Yacht Passing throu^di Canal 

Pelicans 

Captured Alligator ... " 

Ostrich Farm 

Riverside Park 

Jacksonville City Hall ... 

St. John's River Bridge, Jack- 
sonville " 

"Old Slave Market." St. Au- 
gustine " 



56 
57 

65 
74 
75 

«2 

«3 

)2 

93 
102 



103 
112 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Hotel Alcazar Facing page 113 

Memorial Presbyterian Church *' " 122 

Treasury Street .... " " 123 

The Daytona Beach ... " " 132 

Ridgewood Avenue, Daytona . " '* 133 
Ruins of Sugar Mill, Port 

Orange " " 142 

The Big Tree, Daytona . . » « 143 
Ruins of Spanish Mission, 

New Smyrna .... « << J22 
Ruins of " Turnbull's Castle," 

New Smyrna " " 153 

The Shore at Rockledge . . " "158 

A Shell Mound " " I59 

White Hall " "162 

Cocoanut Palms on Lake 

Worth " ''163 

Alligator Joe at Palm Beach " " 168 

Wheel Chairs " "169 

Hotel Royal Palm at Miami " " 180 
Golf at Kissimmee .... » " 181 
The Seminole Club, Miami . " " 190 
A Railroad into the Ever- 
glades " " 191 

At Work on Maser Channel 

Bridge " "196 

Mangrove Trees, Jupiter Nar- 
rows ....... " " 197 

Mosher Channel Viaduct . . « « 204 
Construction of Concrete Via- 
duct " "205 

Banyan Tree at United States 

Barracks, Key West . . « << 210 

Landing Sponges at Key West " " 211 

Seminole Indian Village . . u ^ ^ig 



ILLUSTRATION'S 

Seminole Canoes . . Pacini^ poi^e 219 

A Celery Farm 22H 

Conner's Landing;, The Ockla- 
waha 

Gathering Oranges .... " 

Ocklawaha Stcanier ... 

Barracks and Tarade Gruund, 
Fort Barrancas ♦. . . . 

" Bellevue," House of Princess 
Miirat 

Palms 

Pensacola Lip:ht House . . '* 

In the Lake Country ... ** 

De Leon Springs .... 

Tampa Hay Hotel .... 

Razorbacks " 

Shell Fence at St. Petersburg 

Tampa Post Office and Cus- 
tom House 

Old Fort Dallas, Miami . . 

Concrete Mixer " 

Drainage Canal Works . 

Captain and Crew .... " 

A Houscl)oat 

Pineapple Field ** 

By the Keys 

A T'lorida I^'ord " 

Hotel Ponce dc Leon ... 

City Gates 

Gardens of Royal Poinciana 
Hotel 

The Catch 

A China Tree 

Boca Chica Viaduct 



A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 



FLORIDA, THE "LAND OF FLOWERS" 

For a jii^rcat part of our country Florida is the 
one winter resort. California is its only rival, 
and for the people of the east and the middle 
west the southern State's greater accessibility 
must always give it an advantage over its western 
rival. There is no intention here nor anywhere 
else in this volume to enter into a discussion 
of the relative merits of the two States, a dis- 
cussion which, as anyone who has listened to 
piazza conversations at winter hotels knows, may 
easily become acrimonious. It must be sufficient 
to say that there are great numbers of people 
who prefer the Florida climate and landscape, 
yachtsmen who think no waters compare with 
the Floridian rivers and bays, and fishing and 
shooting men who would exchange the Florida 
woods, streams and beaches for no others. The 
number of the State's visitors and admirers in- 
creases yearly. Yearly, too, is discovery made 
of its possibilities as a place of permanent resi- 
dence, and its great agricultural resources. Be- 
sides the winter tourist there is also the settler, 
an increasing factor in the State's economy. 

Florida has been singularly fortunate in its 
name which we commonly translate " Land of 
Flowers." In strict accuracy the discoverer 
gave the name not as descriptive, but because he 
landed on ** Pascua I'lorida " — the tlowcry 
Easter — in the Spanish tongue. But in the 



2 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA I 

popular speech Florida has become synony- 
mous with Land of Flowers the world over. It 
is curious and significant, too, to find that abroad, 
where the names of our States are generally 
nothing but a meaningless jargon to the Euro- 
pean, the name of Florida seems universally 
known. It means everywhere blue skies, orange 
trees, blossoming rose-bushes — in short, sum- 
mer in winter. 

And it is scarcely an unfair comparison to 
say that as to the Spaniards in Cuba and Porto 
Rico, Florida lay in the west almost like a will- 
o'-the-wisp upon the horizon calling them to 
come to the cities of Eldorado and the Fountain 
of Youth, so even in prosaic modern days for 
many people in the bleaker North it seems to lie 
down against the tropic seas and the Indies, in- 
viting with an appeal which somehow still holds 
in it something of the old mystery and romance. 

Florida was the scene of the first settlement 
by Europeans upon what is now the territory 
of the United States. It has been, however, 
oddly enough, the last of the States east of the 
Mississippi to be completely settled and devel- 
oped — in fact the process is by no means com- 
plete yet. It is at once the oldest and the newest 
country on our Atlantic seaboard or on our Gulf 
coast. It has in consequence a curious, almost 
anomalous, character. 

It abounds in legends, it holds in its woods 
and by its streams ruined traces of forgotten 
and inexplicable settlements of early Spanish 
days. It is filled, on the other hand, with brisk 
and thriving new cities, " boom towns " almost. 
The new settler finds land cheap and abundant. 



• THE LAND OF FLOWERS " 3 

but his title to it often rests on some old grant 
to a grandee of Spain or to an Knj^lish lord. In 
the Florida of to-day the visitor will find, if he 
has the interest and the eyes to look, a mixture 
of the antique and the most modern, such as it 
would he hard to match elsewhere. He will find 
the oldest town and the newest. He will dis- 
cover quaint maps, over three centuries old. of 
parts of the land he visits, but he will find that 
even now there is no chart for all the trackless 
mystery of the Everglades. In short Florida, 
which had its very begjinnings in romance, in 
that expedition of Ponce de Leon's in search of 
the Fountain of Youth, has kept, even to the 
present day, when the flood of modern progress 
is pouring into her every corner, something of 
her own pleasantly romantic character. 

Time and Plan of Tour. — The plcasantest sea- 
son, broadly speaking, to be in Florida is from 
November till the middle of May. Not only is 
that the period when for many the climate of 
the States farther north is least agreeable, but 
it is also the time when the climatic and other 
conditions of Florida are most nearly to the 
taste of her visitors. 

There is much to be said in favor of even the 
summer climate of the peninsula (see later chap- 
ter on climate). The rise of temperature is less 
perhaps than might be expected, the air is in 
many places freshened constantly by the sea- 
breezes, and the nights are comparatfvely cool. 
But on the whole heat and insect pests make it 
less attractive in summer. And in the autumn 
in many parts of the State there is commonly 
a rainy season, sometimes with gales, or even at 



4 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

rare intervals the milder Florida form of the 
West Indian hurricane. 

January and the first half of February are 
very often cool (sometimes rainy), in the north- 
ern and central parts of the State. This is the 
time to visit the parts lying farthest south, such 
as Palm Beach, Miami, and the Keys. 

Later it is wiser, as the phrase is, to follow 
the spring north. The commonest mistake, how- 
ever, is to follow it too fast. One cannot put it 
too strongly that the majority of visitors, while 
roses bloom, birds sing about them, and the de- 
ciduous trees are in full leaf, cannot be brought 
to believe that in the North the spring weather 
is still treacherous, disagreeable, and often, upon 
a return from the milder climate of the South, 
actually dangerous. It is, as all travelers know, 
a commonplace that there is no place in the 
world where, according to its inhabitants, you 
should not be in May to see it at its best. There 
is no intention here of urging that the northern 
be sacrificed to secure the southern May. But 
those who choose to stay so late will find it 
agreeable. 

Neither railways nor hotel-keepers, however, 
do much to prolong the season for visitors. The 
fastest and best equipped trains are put on in 
early January and usually withdrawn in late 
March, and many of the largest and best hotels 
hold to this same schedule of opening and clos- 
ing. But' both early and late, good and often 
cheaper accommodation is provided, so that no 
one who really wants it need be deterred from 
a long visit. The " season," however, in the 
sense of being crowded and fashionable, is Jan- 



•TMR LAND OF FLOWERS" $ 

uarv, February and March. During that time, 
at the more popular places it is often advisable 
to have secured rooms ahead at hotels, and to 
have reserved berths, etc., upon trains as much 
in advance as convenient. 

Plan of Tour. — In almost all cases tiic visitor 
arrives at Jacksonville, where, either coming or 
poinjj. it is probable he will fmd it convenient 
to sleep at least a ni^lit, and so will have oppor- 
tunity to visit the city. He may wish to delay 
for excursions to IVrnandina, or Atlantic and 
Pablo Ueaches. 

The ICast Coast is perhaps the most frequented 
part of Florida. St. .Xuj^ustine is unquestion- 
ably the most picturesque and intcrestinj^ city 
<»f the State. Palm Beach its most fashii>nable 
resort, and Miami, in both town and hotels, a 
wonderful example of what the Florida East 
Coast Railway has accomplished. At Daytona, 
will be found the most important <»f the less 
pretentious places. Beyond Miami the railway 
j:oes throuijh the Keys, half over the sea and 
half over land, on a roadbed which is remarkable 
from an enj^ineering point of view, as far as 
Key West. 

From Miami steamers po to Nassau, and from 
Key West to Havana, and the I'lorida trip tnay 
f)e extended to the P.ahamas and Cuba. I'rom 
Havana it is possible to sail to Tampa and 
lie^jin the return trip on the West Coast. Tampa 
and St. Petersburg are favorite resorts well 
c<|uipped with hotels and attracti<ms for the 
visitor, .^outh from Tampa may be visited 
the Manatee river country, .^till farther one may 
j:o to Fort Myers and intr) the heart of the 



6 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

actual wilderness. For sportsmen and lovers 
of wild nature this part is full of attractions. 

The St. John's river from Jacksonville south 
to Enterprise and Sanford was long considered 
the chief sight of Florida and is now well worth 
the tourist's attention. And the trip from Pal- 
atka up the Ocklawaha river (the chief tributary 
of the St. John's) is one of the most interesting 
and striking experiences which the State can 
of¥er, besides being easy and inexpensive. 

The Central region is hard to group, for pur- 
poses of description. No one, however, gains a 
complete idea of the State or its attractions with- 
out seeing the lake and " hill " country. Or- 
lando, Ocala, and DeLand may be named as 
among the more important points. 

The old province of West Florida containing 
Pensacola, the capital in colonial days, and Tal- 
lahassee, the present capital, is not greatly 
visited by the ordinary visitor to the State. It 
lies far from the main routes, and indeed is more 
conveniently approached from the direction of 
New Orleans and Mobile. It is full, however, 
of interesting historical associations, and con- 
tains natural attractions both along the coast 
and inland which make it worth being included 
more often than it is in the tourist's itinerary. 

General Hints, Hotels, Expenses, etc. — In gen- 
eral it may be said that the only way the tour- 
ist will ever know whether Florida suits his in- 
dividual taste will be to go there. But it is hoped 
that this present volume will not only show him 
something of its attraction, but enable him to 
guess which of its many regions and resorts is 
likely to please him most. 



" THE LAND OF FLOWERS " 7 

He should take with him little or much cloth- 
ing, as his tastes incline to quiet or to fashion- 
able places. Unless he means to return very 
early in the spring he should be provided with 
clothing such as he might want in midsummer 
in the north. On the other hand no one should 
venture into Florida in the winter without some 
warm clothes, and overcoats and wraps as well. 

Hotels may now be said to be generally good 
in the State, though in towns not definitely tour- 
ist resorts, there might yet be great improve- 
ments. Few except the newest are adequately 
provided with private bathrooms, yet this want 
is being rapidly remedied. 

Prices vary with accommodation provided, but 
broadly speaking, it may be said that Florida, 
more than many resort regions, provides for 
every purse. It is amply supplied with small 
hotels and boarding houses, and no one need 
be deterred from a visit by a fear of being forced 
into the excessively fashionable and dear hotels. 
It is as enormously democratic and simple on 
one side as it is gay and expensive on the other. 

It has been the aim to have the railroad mile- 
age, and the time of transit, as accurate as pos- 
sible. The mileage is from authoritative sources. 
The time of transit on local roads has not al- 
ways been given, as it could not always be ac- 
curately ascertained. No attempt has been made 
to inform the traveler as to the railroad connec- 
tions at any except the most important points. 
Local time-tables and data can always be ob- 
tained. 



HISTORY 

The history of Florida begins with Adventure 
and with Romance. The lust for gold and, if 
tradition is to be credited, the yearning for eter- 
nal youth, brought the first white men to its 
shores — stout Spaniards in jack-boots and iron 
coats — led by Juan Ponce de Leon, a gallant 
adventurer already growing old with service in 
the dominions of Spain in the new world. 

While written history begins with Ponce de 
Leon and his comrades, vague traditions have 
been preserved of voyages of earlier travelers 
along the coast of Florida. Claims have been 
made that the ubiquitous Cabots, John or Sebas- 
tian, sailed down the coast from Cape Breton to 
Cuba. These claims, however, are generally 
disallowed by serious historians. Reports 
equally vague credit Amerigo Vespuccius with 
having sailed in one of his voyages up the coast 
to the north. The claims have no historical basis. 

^ The existence of the land now known as Flor- 
ida was not suspected until 1502 when a map, 
published in Lisbon, showed a shadowy penin- 
sula north of Cuba, roughly resembling Florida 
in shape. The claim made by historians, that 
this territory was explored by Spaniards in 1500 
or 1502, is not substantiated by any known facts. 
We have, however, now reached a period of more 
certain knowledge. The native tribes of the 
Bahamas, known as the Lucayos, talked in the 
hearing of their Spanish conquerors of a myste- 




3 
< 

CO 

c 
o 



C/5 

r3 



CO 




C/5 

c 

C 



c 






HISTORY 9 

nous land of Bimini or Bimine, a kingdom lying 
nearly to the north. Within its borders was a 
fountain of eternal youth, at the touch of whose 
waters age fell away forever. Near by ran a 
river of miraculous powers, which the Spaniards 
decided was no other than the Jordan. These 
stories were repeated in Spain by returning sol- 
diers, and the Decades, published in 151 1 by Peter 
Martyr, contains a map showing the Island of 
Bimini. In this book also occurs the first known 
reference to the fountain of youth, situated some- 
where on an island north of Hispaiiola or Cuba. 

V These tales came in time to the ears of Juan 
Ponce de Leon, who had been a companion of 
Columbus in his second voyage, and had done 
good service. He had, however, fallen on evil 
days. He had remained in Hispafiola, and had 
asked for and obtained a commission to conquer 
and colonize Porto Rico. After many hardships 
he brought the island under the control of 
Spanish arms, and was made its governor. He 
acquired a large fortune, but falling a victim to 
the intrigues that follow the successful, was su- 
perseded by Diego Columbus. It was at this 
time that we may imagine him, now 42 years 
of age, embittered by injustice and wearied by 
hardships, listening eagerly to the stories of the 
Island of Bimini, rich in gold and concealing 
somewhere within its limits the fountain of eter- 
nal youth. 

■I Ponce de Leon lost no time in asking for per- 
mission to explore and conquer this marvelous 
land. He was still powerful enough at court to 
secure, through friends, a patent of discovery 
and colonization. When he asked that this patent 



10 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

might be based on that granted to Columbus, the 
King refused on the ground that whereas Colum- 
bus had sailed into the unknown, Biniini was a 
reality! On February 23, 1512, he w^as empow- 
ered " to proceed to discover and settle the 
Island of Bimini." He was required to explore 
for the space of three years and was privileged 
to touch at any island not the property of the 
King of Portugal. Ponce de Leon at once pur- 
chased a vessel which was to take him to Spain 
to make his preparations for the voyage. The 
ship, however, was seized by hostile author- 
ities in Porto Rico. The King thereupon ordered 
the expedition deferred for one year, and the im- 
patient commander was ordered to assist in sub- 
duing the Indians, who were proving trouble- 
some to their conquerors. To accomplish this 
took the better part of a year, but in March, 
1513,^ he sailed with three caravels, taking as 
pilot Anton de Alaminos, a native of Palos who, 
as a boy, had accompanied Columbus. The little 
fleet sailed among the Bahamas, touched at San 
Salvador, and then struck to the northwest. On 
March 2y (Easter Sunday), it came within sight 
of the mainland of Florida. They sailed along 
the coast until April 2, when anchor was dropped 
in latitude 30° 8' and a landing w^as made. 
Ponce de Leon took possession of the country 
in the name of the King of Spain on April 8. 
From the day of its discovery, Pascua Florida, 
literally Flowery Easter, or from the green ap- 
pearance of its shores, the land was given the 
name of Florida. Explorations were carried on 

1 Winsor, Narrative and Critical History, U. S. Some 
other authorities give 1512. 



HISTORY II 

here for almost two months, and in these wan- 
derings is supposed to have been included the 
site of St. Augustine. The caravels were 
then turned to the southwest, following the 
coast. On April 20th a landing was made 
near a cluster of Indian huts. When an attempt 
was made to sail away the currents were found 
to be so swift that no headway could be made 
and one ship was driven out of sight. On a 
second landing, the Indians showed themselves 
so hostile to the strangers that it was necessary 
to repel them by force. These aborigines were, 
from the beginning, troublesome ; it may be with 
good reason. They were far more warlike than 
most of the Indians encountered by explorers in 
New England and other early settlements. 
^ Putting to sea again Ponce de Leon rounded 
Cape Corrientes on May 8 and continued his 
voyage until he reached a chain of islands which 
he named The Martyrs. The Indians here 
proved even more vexatious than their comrades 
of the mainland. They attempted to steal the 
chains and anchors of the ships in order that 
they might gain possession of the vessels. 
0> Still searching for Bimini, Ponce de Leon 
came upon and named the Tortugas. He then 
ran up the western shore to a bay in latitude 
27° 30'. This for centuries after was known as 
Juan Ponce Bay. The caravels sailed in this 
direction until May 23 and then turned back. 
On June 14 the little fleet was again headed 
toward Porto Rico, still searching for the magic 
fountain. The search was continued from July 
25 until September 27, when Ponce de Leon 
sailed for Spain, leaving one caravel under Juan 



12 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Perez to continue the search for Bimini and the 
fountain of youth. 

\ Ponce de Leon, on reaching Spain, gave the 
King such glowing accounts of his new terri- 
tories that the latter bestowed upon him the 
title of Adelantado of the Islands of Florida and 
Bimini. In addition, he gave him a new patent 
empowering him to settle " the island Bimini and 
the island Florida." This settlement was to be 
effected in three years after the date of the 
commission, but an extension of time was made 
until the date of the sailing of the expedition. 

"^It was, however, many years before Ponce de 
Leon was able to take advantage of his new 
patent and continue his explorations in the new 
lands. The warlike tribes of the Caribs had first 
to be subdued, and where fighting was to be 
done there was work for this stout soldier. Per- 
mission was given him to employ troops engaged 
in this warfare against the Caribs for his explo- 
rations, when their subjection should have been 
accomplished. The natives of Florida were to 
be required to submit to the Catholic faith and 
they were to be left unharmed unless they refused 
allegiance to the King of Spain. 

"^The Carib war and other matters detained 
Ponce de Leon until 1521. He had grown older 
and wiser and he had awakened from the visions 
of gold and eternal youth which had inspired 
his earlier voyage. On the eve of sailing on Feb- 
urary 10, 1521, he wrote thus to the King of 
Spain : " Among my services I discovered 
at my own cost and charge the Island Flor- 
ida, and others in its district which are not men- 
tioned, as small and useless; and now I return 



HISTORY 13 

to that island, if it please God's will, to settle 
it, being enabled to carry a number of people 
with which I shall be able to do so, that the 
name of Christ may be praised there, and your 
majesty served with the fruit that land produces. 
And I also intend to explore the coast of said 
island further and see whether it is an island or 
whether it connects with the land where Diego 
Velasquez is, or any other; and I shall endeavor 
to learn all I can." To accomplish these pur- 
poses he carried with him priests, friars, 
horses, cattle and sheep, and about 400 men. 
The exact place of his landing is not known. He 
at once began the erection of dwellings for his 
followers, but scarcely had the work been under- 
taken when they were attacked by hostile In- 
dians. While leading his men. Ponce de Leon 
received a dangerous arrow wound in his head. 
The attack was repulsed, but sickness spread 
among the people, unused to the strange clime, 
and Ponce de Leon soon realized the hopeless- 
ness of his endeavor. The attempt to colonize 
was abandoned and he, with his companions, 
embarked on board his ships and sailed for Cuba 
where, after a long and painful illness he died of 
his wound. 

xjThus ended the first attempt 'to explore and 
colonize the land now known as Florida. Al- 
though Ponce de Leon accomplished no definite 
results, his name stands highest in the roll of 
the founders of the Commonwealth, first be- 
cause he was its discoverer, and hardly less be- 
cause of the glamour of romance which hangs 
over his first voyage, and the high purposes 
with which he undertook the second. He was 



14 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

one of the most gallant of the Spanish adventur- 
ers who first set foot upon the soil of America, 
and his record is unstained by the cruelty and 
rapacity which has made the memory of other 
Spanish explorers of his age less hallowed than 
execrated. His epitaph in Latin has thus been 
translated into English : " Beneath this stone re- 
pose the bones of the valiant Lion, whose deeds 
surpassed the greatness of his name." 
-While Ponce de Leon had been delayed in 
fighting the enemies of his King, other Spanish 
adventurers without waiting for patents or other 
formalities had made voyages to the lands which 
he had discovered. In 15 16 Diego Miruelo, a 
pilot, made a trading cruise from Cuba to the 
coast of Florida. He discovered a bay on the 
west coast, which was probably Pensacola Bay. 
He traded successfully with the Indians and re- 
turned after a stay of one year. Francis Her- 
nandez de Cordova in 1517 led an expedition to 
capture slaves in the Bahamas. He was driven 
by storms to the coast of Florida, where his 
pilot, Alaminos, who had accompanied Ponce 
de Leon on his first voyage, ran into a bay where 
he had been before. Here the Indians proved 
hostile and attacked the Spaniards with great 
fury, wounding many of them. The Spaniards 
in repelling the attack killed 22 of the natives, 
-i There were several other explorers in these 
years, but they left no impress as the result of 
their voyages, and their exploits are of interest 
and importance chiefly to students and historians. 
Among these was Alonzo Alvarez de Prieda 
who, in 1 5 19, sailed westward along the coast 
to the river Panuco in Mexico, which he named. 



HISTORY 15 

His voyage was the first to determine that Flor- 
ida was not an island but a portion of the main- 
land. The voyages of Garay and Vasquez de 
Ayllon in 1520, 1523 and 1526 threw some new 
light on the discoveries of Ponce de Leon and 
made the general outlines of the coast familiar 
to the Spaniards. 

-^The history of these earliest explorers would 
be incomplete without a record of that most un- 
fortunate adventurer, Panfilo de Narvaez. This 
officer had been sent by Velasquez, Governor 
of Cuba, to supersede Cortes in Mexico, but that 
haughty conqueror had contemptuously driven 
him back. He then obtained a patent from 
Charles V. to acquire and colonize on the Gulf 
of Mexico from the Rio de Palmas to Florida. 
The grant was made on the condition that Nar- 
vaez was to found two towns and erect two 
fortresses. The title of Adelantado was given 
to him. After many vicissitudes by sea he 
landed, with 100 men, on the coast of Florida 
on April 15, 1528. The natives were called upon 
to acknowledge the sovereignty of the Pope and 
the King of Spain and were threatened with 
destruction if they refused. Here De Narvaez 
was told by the natives of a great and rich city 
called Apalache, in the interior, where much 
booty could be obtained. Leaving his ships with 
a portion of his men, he struck out with the re- 
mainder. When Apalache was finally reached, 
it was found to be a rude hamlet of about forty 
small cabins. The party was already in desper- 
ate straits for food, and after a month of almost 
unbelievable sufifering, during which they were 
continually harassed by Indians, they again 



i6 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

reached the coast, on the northern shore of the 
Gulf of Mexico. Their horses had already been 
eaten and the metal work and accouterments j 
were used to aid in the construction of such' 
crazy boats as they with their rude implements 
could manufacture. In these frail vessels they 
put to sea. They were soon overturned by the 
waves and De Narvaez and all but four of his fol- 
lowers perished. Among the survivors was 
Cabeca de Vaca, the treasurer of the expedition. 
After years of wandering these castaways finally 
reached the settlements of Spain in Mexico. 
De Vaca, returning to Spain, published a re- 
markable narrative of his adventure, which may 
be read in the quaint English of Richard Hak- 
luyt. For purposes of his own he spread abroad 
the mischievous falsehood that Florida was the 
richest country he had discovered. 
'^The marvelous inventions of De Vaca fell upon 
receptive ears. Among his eager listeners was 
Hernando de Soto, an adventurer who had ac- 
quired some fame in the train of Pizarro the 
conqueror of Peru. He was a man of un- 
bounded avarice and ambition and now sought 
for new fields of enterprise. He had asked for 
and obtained permission to conquer Florida, an4 
the wonders unfolded by De Vaca and others [ 
gave him no lack of recruits for the adventure, i 
Nobles and gentlemen contended for the priv-j 
ilege of joining his standard. He set sail from i 
Havana with a large armament on May 12, 1539, 
and landed at the bay of Espiritu Santo, now 
Tampa Bay, in Florida. With him were over j 
600 men thoroughly armed and equipped, j 
Priests also were in th^ tr^in, carrying the j 

i 
i 



HISTORY 17 

sacred vessels and vestments, with bread and 
wine for the Eucharist, for De Soto declared that 
his enterprise was undertaken for religious pur- 
poses alone. In addition to the religious para- 
phernalia, there were brought along fetters to 
bind prisoners and bloodhounds to hunt them 
down. 

' The wanderings of De Soto bear an important 
relation to the history of the Mississippi Valley ; 
with Florida, proper, he had little to do except 
that he made his starting point within its borders. 
The story of the wanderings of the expedition 
through Georgia, Alabama and Mississippi is so 
well known that it need not be repeated here. 
After over three years of hardship and suffering 
in the search for gold and treasure, De Soto died 
miserably and his followers buried his body in 
the waters of the Mississippi. The survivors of 
the expedition, after great hardships, reached the 
Gulf of Mexico and finally arrived at a Spanish 
settlement on the river Panuco. Of the 620 who 
embarked upon the expedition, but 311 escaped 
alive. The bones of their comrades were scat- 
tered abroad throughout the wilderness which 
they had traversed. 

.-^The fate of De Soto did not deter others from 
attempting the conquest of Florida. A Domini- 
can monk, Cancello, undertook the task of con- 
verting the natives to the true faith, but he, with 
several other priests, were murdered in the at- 
tempt. In 1558 an ambitious plan of coloniza- 
tion was formed by Guido de las Bazares. He 
explored the coast in an attempt to find a suit- 
able place for the beginnings of his colony. Re- 
turning to Spain he dispatched a squadron with 



i8 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

supplies and men, but this was dispersed by 
storms, and the expedition was a total failure. 
In 1559 Tristan de Luna landed at Pensacola, 
and explored a portion of the coast. 
>"So far as concerned permanent occupation of 
the land, these various expeditions were without 
result. Spain had not yet gained a foothold in 
Florida, a name, it must be remembered, which 
was not limited to the territory that bears the 
name at the present time, but included the whole 
country from the Atlantic on the East to the 
longitude of New Mexico on the West, and from 
the Gulf of Mexico indefinitely northward to the 
Polar Sea. This vast territory was claimed by 
Spain as a result of the discoveries of Columbus, 
the grant of the Pope and the expeditions al- 
ready mentioned. It was claimed, too, by Eng- 
land as a right of the discoveries of Cabot, while 
France based a still more shadowy claim upon 
the voyage of Verazzano and traditions of earlier 
visits of Breton adventurers. 

The next attempt at conquest and coloniza- 
tion was made by Frenchmen under the jealous 
watch of Spain. The attempted settlement in 
Canada by Cartier and Roberval in 1541 Spain 
had regarded with hostile eyes, but the attempted 
colonization by Frenchmen on the coasts of Flor- 
ida proper was to occasion in her even more 
distrust and alarm. 

* In 1562 France was disturbed by the approach 
of a religious war. The struggle between the 
Huguenots and the Roman Catholics was ap- 
proaching a crisis. In those days there came to 
Caspar de Coligny, Admiral gf France and 



HISTORY 19 

leader of the Huguenots, a dream of a colony in 
the new world where the French Protestants 
might be secure from persecution and destruc- 
tion. This dream he swiftly turned into a real- 
ity. An expedition was organized under the 
leadership of Jean Ribaut, an excellent seaman 
and staunch Protestant of Dieppe. Enlisted 
with him was a band of veteran soldiers and a 
few noblemen. They embarked fro,m Havre in 
two antiquated ships on February 18, 1562. 
Crossing the Atlantic without adventure they ar- 
rived on April 30 in latitude 29° 30'. This was 
the coast of Florida. The point which jutted 
into the water they called French Cape. The 
ships then turned northward and on the following 
day, May i, they anchored at the mouth of a 
great river, where Indians running along the 
beach, beckoned them to land. This river they 
called the River of May. It is now the St. 
John's. After a short stay at this place they 
sailed onward. Voyaging north they came to a 
commodious haven which they named Port 
Royal. In all about three weeks were spent in 
these voyages of exploration. Ribaut left behind 
him 30 men who were to build a fort at Port 
Royal called Charles fort, and hold it for the 
King of France. He himself returned for addi- 
tional men and supplies. This fort was prob- 
ably near the city of Beaufort, S. C. The col- 
onists left behind soon fell into difficulties. 
Their whole thought was of gold, and the labor 
of providing for subsistence was repugnant to 
them, for they were, for the most part, soldiers 
and sailors, with a few gentlemen. The Indians, 
too, after the first friendly advances became 



20 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

hostile, probably through injustice and ill treat- 
ment. It was soon a difficult matter to find 
food. Homesickness fell upon them and soon 
their chief desire was to leave the spot where 
such hardships were endured. With great dif- 
ficulty they made themselves rude boats and put 
to sea. They drifted about aimlessly for sev- 
eral days, when their supplies gave out and they 
began to suffer from thirst. Their hunger be- 
came so terrible that they killed and ate one of 
their number. Land finally came in sight, and 
soon afterwards a small English vessel bore down 
upon them, and after landing the feeblest of the 
survivors, carried the rest prisoners to Queen 
EHzabeth. 

Jean Ribaut, as we have noted, returned to 
France to recruit emigrants for the new colony. 
He arrived just in time to take part in the fierce 
conflict which had then broken out between the 
Catholics and Huguenots. The struggle, how- 
ever, was short-lived and ended by the Peace of 
Amboise. The Huguenots were in the ascend- 
ancy and Coligny, their leader, was again strong 
at court. He at once seized the opportunity and 
began to solicit, with success, the means of re- 
newing his enterprise of colonization. He gath- 
ered together soldiers, artisans and tradesmen 
and a sprinkling of young Huguenot nobles, for- 
getting the most important class of all — tillers 
of the soil. The command of the expedition was 
given to Rene de Laudonniere. 
--^ The expedition set sail in three vessels, the 
smallest of 60 tons and the largest of 120 tons. 
On June 22, 1564, the coast of Florida was 
sighted. The little fleet entered the harbor of 
St. Augustine, which was given the name. River 



HISTORY 21 

of Dolphins, "because," says Laudonniere, 
" that at mine arrival, I saw there a great num- 
ber of Dolphins which were playing in the mouth 
thereof." The commander then turned north- 
ward, following the coast until June 25, when 
he reached the mouth of the present St. John's, 
" the River of May." Here the vessels anchored 
and a party pulled to the shore. They were 
warmly greeted by several Indians who had 
come to gaze at the strange invaders. This cor- 
dial greeting greatly pleased the Frenchmen. " I 
prayse God continually," Laudonniere says, " for 
the great love I have found in these savages." 
He soon had occasion to amend his thanksgiving. 
On the following morning another landing was 
made and this time an expedition was made up 
the river where the Frenchmen saw for the first 
time, to their great amazement, alligators and 
innumerable strange birds. The spot at which 
they landed seemed an ideal site for the new 
colony. Around the Indian towns in the neigh- 
borhood were growing crops of maize, beans, 
pumpkins and other vegetables, while to their 
optimistic fancy the river afforded a roadway to 
the mines of gold and silver and the great stores 
of precious stones of which they dreamed. The 
building of a fort was at once begun, and 
was called in honor of Charles IX., Fort Caro- 
line. 

"^ For a time all went well with the little colony; 
but the madness for gold, which always possessed 
these adventurers, remained unsatisfied. In ad- 
dition, an attempt to play one Indian chieftain 
against another had resulted in trouble with both. 
The climate proved hot and sickly, the fare was 
bad, and altogether dissatisfaction prevailed. 



22 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA ! 

This vented itself in complaints against the com- 
mander, who had placed the garrison of the fort 
upon half rations in order that the provisions 
might hold out. Two of the ships had returned 
to France while the three remaining had an- 
chored outside the fort. On the returning ves- 
sels the malcontents sent home charges against 
Laudonniere of peculation, favoritism and tyr- 
anny. A number of the men mutinied and, tak- 
ing advantage of their commander's illness, 
gained over nearly all the best soldiers in the 
fort. The mutineers sailed away in two small 
vessels which had been built, with the object of 
plunder and trade in one of the Spanish islands. 
The expedition resulted in disaster, and the mu- 
tineers returning were put to death. 
^- The colonists, now reduced to desperate straits 
through hunger and homesickness, looked in vain 
for relief. Their chief desire was to return to 
France. The Indians had become hostile and 
the situation of the little band was perilous in 
the extreme. On August 3, 1565, Laudonniere, 
while walking on a hill, looked eastward and saw 
a great ship entering the river's mouth. This 
was followed by two others. The hope of suc- 
cor was soon succeeded by fear that the newcom- 
ers might not be French but Spaniards. They 
proved neither, but an English vessel under the 
command of " the right worshipful and valiant 
knight, Sir John Hawkins," father of the English 
slave trade. Laudonniere purchased from him 
one of the smaller vessels and after a brief, but 
friendly visit, the Englishmen sailed away. 
Preparations were at once begun for departure, 
but on August 28, tidings were brought of an- 



HISTORY 23 

other approaching squadron. There was another 
alarm lest they be their enemies of Spain, but 
they proved to be the long looked for ships from 
France under the command of Jean Ribaut. 
Greetings had scarcely been exchanged with their 
comrades fromx France when, on September 4, 
the crew of Ribaut's flagship, anchored outside 
the bar, saw a great vessel sailing toward them, 
and, floating from her stern, the dreaded banner 
of Spain. Others followed in her wake. 
---The commander of the expedition which thus 
brought alarm to the French, was Pedro Menen- 
dez de Aviles, an officer of the Spanish marine. 
He had served the King at Flanders and in the 
Indies, where he served as commander of the 
fleet and army, and amassed a vast fortune. He 
fell into temporary disgrace, but was pardoned 
and his command v\^as restored. To him came 
the great conception of the conquest and 
settlement of Florida by Spain, and to his 
plans the King lent a ready ear. Menendez was 
empowered to conquer and convert Florida at 
his own cost and the task was to be completed 
within three years. Shortly after, the tidings 
reached Madrid that Florida had already been oc- 
cupied by French Protestants and that reinforce- 
ments under Ribaut were on the point of sailing 
thither. On the receipt of these tidings the force 
which Menendez had designed to take with him 
was greatly increased. He was given almost 
absolute power, not merely over the peninsula 
which now retains the name of Florida, but over 
all North America from Labrador to Mexico. 
His whole force amounted to over 2,600 persons 
and 34 vessels. 



24 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

The chief desire of the commander was to an- 
ticipate Ribaiit, of whose designs he had been 
fully informed, and to exterminate the French 
Protestants. He sailed with 1 1 ships from Cadiz 
on June 29, 1565, leaving the smaller vessels of 
his fleet to follow. After many misadventures 
by sea they discovered on September 4, four ships 
anchored in the mouth of a river. These ships 
were four of Ribaut's squadron, anchored, as told 
above, at the mouth of the river St. John's. The 
Spanish ships at once prepared for battle, but it 
was dark before they were able to come within 
speaking distance of the French. After some 
parley between the two fleets, Menendez gave his 
men the order to board. Ribaut was on shore 
at Fort Caroline. His men cut the cables of their 
ships, left their anchors and fled. The Span- 
iards fired and the French replied. The French 
sailors proved more skillful in maneuvering and 
ran their ships out to sea beyond possibility of 
Spanish pursuit. Menendez gave up the chase 
and turning his flagship ran back alone for the 
St. John's river. Here, however, he found the 
French prepared. Armed men were drawn up on 
the beach and the smaller vessels of Ribaut's 
squadron were anchored behind the bar to op- 
pose his landing. He did not venture an attack, 
but steered southward, sailing along the coast 
until he came to an inlet which he named St. 
Augustine. This was the same waterway which 
Laudonniere had named River of Dolphins. 
Here Menendez found three of his ships disem- 
barking their stores and guns. They had taken 
possession of a large structure which had formed 
the dwelling of an Indian chief. Around this 



HISTORY 25 

they were throwing up intrenchments, and gangs 
of negroes were toiling at the work. This was 
the founding of St. Augustine. On September 
8, 1565, Menendez took formal possession of his 
new domain with impressive and pious ceremon- 
ials. 

At Fort Caroline, in the meantime, the first 
shock of alarm and dismay had given way to dis- 
cussions as to what had best be done, — whether 
to remain where they were and fortify their po- 
sition, to push overland for St. Augustine and 
attack the invaders in their intrenchments, or to 
embark and assail the enemy by sea. The last 
course was decided upon and on September loth 
the ships, crowded with the best of the French 
troops, set sail, leaving the remnant of the colo- 
nists behind, full of dreary forebodings, 
sj Ribaut reached St. Augustine on September 
II, and was at once seen by the crew of one 
of the smaller Spanish vessels, lying outside the 
bar. The Spaniards on the ships at once gave 
themselves up for lost, but a wind sprang up and 
they were able to find refuge behind the bar. 
On the following day, the ships of Ribaut, with 
their decks black with men, stood close to the 
entrance to the port, but the breeze in the mean- 
time rose to a gale and then to a furious tempest 
and the French ships were scattered wide on the 
seas. Menendez at once showed the capacity of 
a great commander by taking the resolve to 
march at once to Fort Caroline with 500 men and 
attack and destroy it while its defenders were 
absent. September 19 found the vanguard of 
this force in a deep forest less than a mile from 
the fort. As they approached still closer 



26 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

they met a solitary Frenchman, whom they 
knocked down and took prisoner. With the cry 
" Santiago ! At them ! God with us ! Vic- 
tory ! " the Spaniards rushed upon their unsus- 
pecting victims. There was no guard on the 
ramparts. Only a small company of men es- 
caped. The rest were summarily butchered. 
About 140 persons were slain in and around the 
forts. Only the women, infants and boys under 
15 years of age were spared. Of these there 
were about 50. It is affirmed that Menendez 
hanged his prisoners on trees and placed over 
them the inscription, " I do this, not as to French- 
men, but as to Lutherans." The Spaniards 
gained a great booty in armor, clothing and pro- 
visions. " Nevertheless," says one of the pious 
eye-witnesses, " the greatest profit of this victory 
is the triumph which our Lord has granted us 
whereby His Holy Gospel will be introduced into 
this country, a thing so needful for saving so 
many souls from perdition." Three small French 
vessels were anchored within range of the Fort 
and upon these the cannon were turned when the 
storm had abated a little. One of them was 
sunk, but the others escaped down the river. 
The greater number of fugitives, including Lau- 
donniere himself, finally after many hardships 
succeeded in boarding the 'French vessels and on 
September 25th, they put to sea. After the voy- 
age, in which they endured many privations, one 
ship arrived at La Rochelle and the other at Swan- 
sea in Wales. 

In the meantime the French ships which had 
appeared at St. Augustine had been cast upon 
the shores. One of the smaller ships, containing 



HISTORY 27 

about 150 men, landed further to the north than 
the others, on board which were 350 soldiers and 
sailors with Ribaut himself. Both parties started 
at once on the march back to Fort Caroline, each 
unaware of the whereabouts of the other. The 
smaller party was discovered by the outposts of 
Menendez, who had bivouacked his force on the 
sands of Anastasia Island. 

Menendez sent a messenger to the little com- 
pany asking who they were. They declared 
themselves " followers of Ribaut, Viceroy of the 
King of France." A brief parley ensued dur- 
ing which Menendez declared himself, and the 
Frenchmen gave an account of the disaster which 
had befallen them. The French were promised 
safe conduct to Fort Caroline and they ap- 
proached the Spanish camp with confidence. 
They little knew the character of the man into 
whose power they had given themselves. Still 
professing friendship, he had his prisoners led 
away over a neighboring hill and there they were 
butchered by his men. Of the wretched com- 
pany not one was left alive. Menendez then re- 
turned in triumph to St. Augustine. He was 
still apprehensive of Ribaut and the force which 
remained with him. Soon word came to him 
from the Indians that a large party of French 
had been found near the spot where his first 
victims had landed. He marched to the shore 
with 150 men and concealed his forces among the 
bushes. The French were separated from him 
by an inlet. They had made a raft ready for 
crossing, which lay in the water. Menendez and 
his men showed themselves, whereupon the 
French displayed their banners and set their 



28 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

ranks in array of battle. The French asked for a 
parley and the Spaniards replied. Ribaut sent his 
sergeant major to confer with Menendez. The 
former reported that the French numbered 350 
and were on their way to Fort Caroline. Menen- 
dez bade him tell his commander to come him- 
self with four or five companions and that he 
pledged his word that the Frenchmen would be 
returned safe. Ribaut acceded to this request 
and crossed the inlet with eight gentlemen. 
Menendez first led him to the spot where the 
corpses of his followers still lay in heaps upon 
the sand. Ribaut was prepared for the spectacle 
for his envoy had already seen and reported it. 
In spite of what had occurred he urged that Me- 
nedez should aid him in conveying his followers 
home. The latter refused a direct reply and 
Ribaut returned to consult with his officers. Re- 
turning again he offered a ransom of 100,000 duc- 
ats in behalf of those who wished to surrender. 
Menendez, pretending to accept this, directed 
Ribaut to have his men brought across the in- 
let. Those who surrendered numbered 150. 
The remainder had retreated. When all had 
been landed Ribaut was led among the bushes 
and his hands were bound fast. He then saw 
that he had been trapped. After the French had 
been assembled the Spaniards closed around 
their victims. They were given an opportunity 
to recant the Protestant faith but they stoutly 
refused. Then ensued another butchery. Me- 
nendez himself in his report says that the lives 
of five were spared but the rest were all put to 
the knife. Menendez then again returned to St. 
Augustine where, while some blamed his cruelty, 



HISTORY 29 

most applauded. The 200 Frenchmen who re- 
fused surrender were nearly all captured and 
were made to labor as slaves in St. Augustine. 
Menendez at once dispatched a glowing account 
of his successes to the King of Spain. From 
Spain the news was carried to France. 
-LThis savage butchery did not long remain un- 
avenged. Unable to stir the French government 
to action, Dominique de Gourges, a soldier of an- 
cient birth and high renown in France, took upon 
himself to avenge the wrong. Selling his inherit- 
ance he equipped three small vessels and on 
August 22, 1567, sailed for Florida. After many 
adventures he reached the mouth of the St. 
Mary's, 15 leagues north of the River of May. 
The Spaniards had in the meantime fortified St. 
Augustine and repaired Fort Caroline, which they 
called San Mateo. De Gourges enlisted the aid 
of Indians and marching stealthily through the 
forest, came upon San Mateo. The garrison took 
alarm at its approach, and a detachment sallied 
from the fort. They were all killed or taken 
by the French soldiers. Upon beholding this 
disaster those in the fort were seized with panic 
and they abandoned it in a body, fleeing into the 
woods. A body of Indians at once attacked them 
and only a few prisoners were saved alive. 
These were led under the inscription, " Not as to 
Frenchmen, but as to Lutherans," which Menen- 
dez had placed upon a tree, and there were 
hanged. Over them was nailed the legend, " Not 
as to Spaniards, but as to traitors, robbers and 
murderers." De Gourges had now fulfilled his 
mission. He had no intention of occupying the 
country for the Spaniards were in too great force 



30 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

at St. Augustine. On May 3, 1568, he sailed 
away. 

- Menendez at this time was in Spain where he 
was high in favor at court. Returning he re- 
established the Spanish power in Florida, rebuilt 
Fort San Mateo and established several missions. 
Thus ended the attempt to plant French Protes- 
tantism in America. 

■^ In the years following these stirring events, the 
importance of Florida as a colony of Spain grad- 
ually diminished. No gold or other riches had 
been found — indeed, it is a notable fact that 
Florida is one of the few States of the Union in 
which gold has never been discovered — and to 
the authorities in Spain there was little interest 
in the development of new lands except as a 
source of mineral wealth. Settlement progressed 
slowly. Desultory efforts were made to convert 
the Indians to the Catholic faith and many mis- 
sions were established throughout the territory. 

'^ In 1586 the inhabitants of St. Augustine were 
suddenly alarmed by the appearance off the coast 
of a squadron commanded by Sir Francis Drake, 
who was returning from a devastating expedi- 
tion among the Spanish settlements in the West 
Indies. The famous commander landed a force 
at night and attacked the fort at the entrance to 
the harbor. He found this deserted and the gar- 
rison had fled in such haste that its treasure chest 
had been left behind. The English force ad- 
vanced toward the town, when the inhabitants 
fled. An English sergeant, who commanded a 
detachment, was shot and killed from ambush. 
In retaliation for this Drake burned the town. 




o 



HISTORY 31 

At that time it included among its buildings a 
hall of justice, a parish church and a monastery. 
After Drake and his ships had departed, the 
Spaniards returned and the town was rebuilt. 
-^i In 1638 the colonists conducted a successful 
expedition against the Apalachee Indians. The 
natives who were captured were employed in the 
construction of forts at St. Augustine and this 
vassalage continued for sixty years. In 1647 the 
families in the little city numbered about 300. 
Up to this time the government of the territory 
had vested in the family of Menendez, who had 
received a charter from the King of Spain. This 
family rule ceased about 1650. 

The first of a long series of disturbances and 
disagreements with the English settlements in 
Carolina began in 1663 with the granting of the 
charter for South Carolina. It was claimed by 
Spanish authorities that land included in this 
charter touched on territory granted by the King 
of Spain. This feeling of hostility was aug- 
mented by the attacks on Spanish ships of pirat- 
ical vessels commanded by Englishmen. In 1665 
the pirate Davis sacked St. Augustine. The 
Spaniards alleged that these vessels took refuge 
on the South Carolina coast. As a result of these 
and other disagreements, in 1676 a Spanish force 
marched to attack the English on the Ashley 
river in South Carolina, but finding the colonists 
intrenched the Spaniards retreated. In the same 
year several Spanish galleys attacked Scotch set- 
tlements on Port Royal Island, burning many 
houses and destroying such property as they 
could find. These attacks aroused great indig- 
nation among the English, 



32 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

The Governor of Florida, Juan Marquez Cab- 
rera, undertook in 1681 to remove several tribes 
of Indians from the mainland to neighboring- 
islands. The Indians resisted and before they 
could be subdued had burned several towns. 

Up to this time no effort had been made on 
the part of the Spaniards to explore the terri- 
tories under their rule. They had been content 
to fortify St. Augustine and carry on the work of 
the missions among the Indians. In 1692, how- 
ever, the founder of New Spain fitted out an 
expedition to explore the western coast. Four 
years later the town of Pensacola was founded, 
but no other important attempts at colonization 
were made. In the main, the history of this pe- 
riod is one of petty changes in the government, 
accompanied by little real progress. 

During these years the English colonists in the 
Carolinas had continued to grow in strength, and 
Governor Moore of South Carolina conceived the 
plan of attacking and capturing St. Augustine. 
The English Government authorized the expedi- 
tion and a company of 600 militia was raised. 
Two methods of attack were adopted : A por- 
tion of the force was to go by sea, while the re- 
mainder was to form a land expedition, which 
was to sail in boats by an inland passage to the 
St. John's river and invest St. Augustine in the 
rear. The land force was the first to arrive and 
by a sudden attack gained possession of the town. 
The Spanish troops took refuge in a strong castle. 
When the sea force arrived, it was found that 
the guns at their disposal were of so small a cali- 
ber that no impression could be made on the 



HISTORY s:^ 

strong walls of the fort. The commander of 
the fleet thereupon started for Jamaica to pro- 
cure heavier guns. Before he could return, two 
Spanish vessels appeared off the coast, and Gov- 
ernor Moore retreated, not, however, before he 
had burned the unfortunate town. It was long 
before the little city recovered from the effects of 
this blow. Moore did not rest here, but attacked 
and destroyed many of the Spanish settlements, 
captured a large number of the natives and broke 
up, as far as he was able, the Spanish missions. 

In addition to these troubles with their neigh- 
bors on the north, the Spaniards now came into 
conflict with the French settlers in Louisiana. 
In anticipation of possible trouble, Pensacola was 
fortified. In 1718, Bienville, the French com- 
mander in Mobile, hearing that war had been 
declared between Spain and France, led an ex- 
pedition with three ships against that settlement. 
The fort was surprised and taken, but was soon 
retaken by the Spanish. In the following year 
the French again returned and recaptured the 
fort. As they were not able to hold it, it was 
burned and the place was deserted. After the 
treaty of peace between Spain and France in 
1722, Pensacola was restored to Spain. 

Difficulties between Carolina and Florida con- 
tinued to be acute. It was claimed by the Eng- 
lish colonists that the Spaniards in Florida in- 
cited attacks of hostile Yemassee Indians against 
them. In order to protect their frontiers they 
erected a small fort at Altamaha, which they 
called Fort King George. The Spanish authori- 
ties claimed that this fort was erected on the ter- 
ritory of Spain and an attempt was made to 



34 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

arbitrate the question. No agreement was 
reached and this continued to be a source of dis- 
sension for many years. In 1727 Colonel Palmer 
collected 300 militia and descended upon the In- 
dian and Spanish settlements to the very gates of 
St. Augustine. The towns of the Yemassees were 
destroyed and large numbers of them were taken 
prisoners. This insured peace for a season. 

Plans for colonizing the region now known as 
Georgia had for a long time been considered by 
the English colonists in the Carolinas, and the 
scheme was conceived of vesting in trustees the 
region between Altamaha and Savannah. The 
colony was originally designed for the poorer 
class of settlers. The leading spirit was James 
Edward Oglethorpe, a soldier and philanthropist. 
In 1732 he was given a patent for the region 
under the name of Georgia. A settlement was 
made by Scotch Highlanders on the banks of the 
Altamaha and a fort was built at Frederica. 
This settlement was on land claimed by Spain, 
and in 1736 the Spanish Governor at St. Augus- 
tine demanded the surrender of all territory south 
of St. Helena Sound as belonging to the King of 
Spain. Governor Oglethorpe maintained the 
right of England to the land and refused the de- 
mand. In anticipation of the Spanish attack 
which he knew would follow, he hastened to Eng- 
land to call attention to the threatening condi- 
tions. He returned to Georgia in 1739, having 
been made a major-general and given command 
of a regiment of soldiers. Fortifications were at 
once constructed and preparations made to repel 
invaders. The Spaniards at the same time 
greatly strengthened the defenses of St. Augus- 



HISTORY 35 

tine, and both sides sought the support of the 
Indians. The Creeks, the strongest of the na- 
tions, sided with the English. Before hostihties 
began, however, an attempt was made to settle 
the dispute by arbitration. English commerce 
had suffered greatly from Spanish interference 
and redress for this was demanded. Spain 
agreed to make restitution if the territory in dis- 
pute should be abandoned. This Oglethorpe re- 
fused. 

War having broken out between Spain 
and England in October, 1739, General Ogle- 
thorpe planned an expedition against St. Augus- 
tine. His force consisted of 400 soldiers, several 
small vessels and several bands of Indians. The 
English commander captured several Spanish 
outposts on the St. John's river and ravaged 
the country about St. Augustine. He erected 
batteries on Anastasia Island and elsewhere in 
anticipation of a long siege. On June 25 an at- 
tack was made from the fort by 300 Spanish 
soldiers. The English were surprised and lost 
20 prisoners. The Spaniards suffered even more. 
Their commander and 50 men were killed. His 
batteries completed, Oglethorpe demanded the 
surrender of the city. The governor, Monteano, 
refused. A bombardment was then begun on 
either side. As the fleet could not maneuver 
on account of shallow water, Oglethorpe was 
obliged to depend upon his batteries and on the 
hope of starving out the defenders of the city. 
A shot from one of his guns embedded itself 
in the walls of the fort where it still remains. 
On June 2iy news was brought to the English 
commander of the arrival of several vessels at 



36 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Mosquito Bar. His own ships had been obliged 
to put to sea on account of easterly winds. The 
newcomers proved to be Spaniards, and Ogle- 
thorpe, feeling himself too weak to cope with 
these reinforcements, raised the siege on July 7th. 
Hostilities between the Spaniards and English 
now ceased for several years. During this 
period, however, both sides were preparing for a 
new attack, and in 1749 a great expedition was 
organized at Havana with the object of destroy- 
ing Savannah and exterminating the English set- 
tlements. Oglethorpe early apprised of this, be- 
gan to strengthen his defenses. A fort was 
erected at St. Simons Bar and strong defenses 
were erected at Frederica. On July 5, thirty-six 
Spanish vessels, carrying over 5,000 men, passed 
the batteries and sailed up the river. Oglethorpe 
retreated to Frederica. The Spanish commander 
landed 5,000 troops four miles below the English 
camp and on the following day he sent out a de- 
tail to attack it. Oglethorpe met these, put the 
Spanish to flight and killed many of them. That 
night he attempted an attack upon the Spanish 
camp, but the alarm was given by a French de- 
serter and the plan failed. What he had not been 
able to accomplish by force, Oglethorpe brought 
about by a clever strategy. He contrived to have 
a letter fall into the hands of the Spanish com- 
mander in which was given what purported to 
be the strength of the English forces and con- 
tained a postscript in which, mention was made of 
an attack against St. Augustine which was on the 
point of being made by Admiral Vernon with a 
large fleet. The Spanish army left their camp in 
such haste that their dead remained unburied. 



HISTORY 37 

General Oglethorpe with less than 600 men had 
put to flight a Spanish force of over 5,000. In 
March of the following year he sallied to the 
gates of St. Augustine and killed forty Spaniards. 
This put an end finally to Spanish aggressions 
against English colonists in Georgia. 

The treaty of 1748 brought temporary peace 
between Spain and England. War broke out 
again in 1762 and resulted in the capture of Ha- 
vana by English forces. This cut off St. Augus- 
tine from its base of supplies and placed the col- 
ony in a critical position. England, which had 
long coveted the territory of Florida, offered to 
exchange Havana for Florida and the Bahamas. 
Spain agreed and in 1763 the Spanish lands 
passed into the possession of Great Britain. 

^ Here ends what may be called the Era of Ad- 
venture in the history of Florida. This had 
lasted nearly 300 years, from its first discovery 
by Ponce de Leon to the English occupation. 
During that time Spain had accomplished almost 
nothing in the colonization of her possessions. 
There were two small settlements at St. Augus- 
tine and Pensacola, but in the interior of the 
country there were only a few Indian missions. 

For many years following Florida was little 
more than a pawn in the diplomatic game of the 
nations. The history of this period is not inter- 
esting and may be passed over briefly. England 
began at once to organize the territory, which 
was divided into two provinces, East Florida and 
West Florida. West Florida embraced roughly 
what is now Louisiana and portions of neighbor- 
ing States. East Florida comprised, in the main, 



38 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

the borders of the present State. Under English 
rule a period of prosperity set in. Civil govern- 
ment v^as established in both provinces and im- 
migrants w^ere induced to settle w^ithin their 
borders. In 1769 Andrev^ Turnbull brought a 
band of about 1,500 Minorcans, v^hom he em- 
ployed in the cultivation of indigo at New 
Smyrna. These v^ere, in 1776, removed to St. 
Augustine. Pensacola w^as made the capital of 
West and St. Augustine the capital of East 
Florida. Roads v^ere laid out, some of v^^hich 
are still in use. 

This period of prosperity continued until the 
outbreak of the American Revolution. Florida 
took little or no part in this conflict. The trans- 
fer to Great Britain had been too recent for the 
growth of disaffection, but some of the inhabi- 
tants were in sympathy with the colonists. The 
territory was used largely as a refuge for loyal- 
ists who fled from other States. In 1778 over 
2,000 loyalists from the Carolinas sought safety 
within its borders. Several plans were made to 
invade the territory but these came to nothing. 

War broke out between Spain and Great Brit- 
ain in 1779, and Don Bernardo de Galvez, the 
Spanish Governor at New Orleans, led an expe- 
dition which seized the greater number of the 
English forts in West Florida. In 1781 he cap- 
tured Pensacola. 

~~~^After the close of the Revolution, Great Brit- 
ain, having lost her other American colonies, 
found Florida of little importance, and by the 
treaty of September 3, 1783, East and West Flor- 
ida were again ceded to Spain. Most of the Eng- 
lish settlers found Spanish rule repugnant and 



HISTORY 39 

left the territory. In 1800 Spain ceded to France 
all of West Florida west of the Perdido river, 
thus giving up the most valuable portion of the 
territory. France, in 1803, sold Louisiana to the 
United States. 

AAfter the Louisiana purchase a troublesome 
question arose as to how much of the territory 
east of the Mississippi was included in the land 
ceded by France to the United States. Up to 
1762 Louisiana had reached the Perdido river, 
Florida's western boundary, but this was retro- 
ceded by Spain in 1800 and the United States 
succeeded to what France had recovered. Spain, 
however, still claimed West Florida. That por- 
tion of Louisiana between the Perdido and the 
Mississippi had been obtained by them by con- 
quest from Great Britain during the Revolution. 
The United States regarded this claim as un- 
sound. West Florida was considered to be a 
portion of the Louisiana purchase. In order to 
avoid hostilities an attempt was made to pur- 
chase the disputed territory from Spain. Largely 
through the influence of Napoleon, these offers 
were rejected. 

In 1810-11 the United States troops occupied 
West Florida to save it from the aggressions of 
Great Britain or France. 

^-iThe American government was convinced also 
of the necessity of acquiring East Florida. This 
territory was the refuge of filibusters, hostile 
Seminole Indians and runaway slaves. The Eng- 
lish Government had employed these in its service 
during the War of 181 2, and had made Florida 
the base for hostile raids. A fort built by the 
English at Apalachicola had been occupied by 



40 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

runaway negroes. Spain was unable to preserve 
order, and on July 2y, 1816, the American General 
Gaines crossed the borders, bombarded this fort 
and captured Amelia Island, the resort of the out- 
laws. These collisions finally grew into open 
hostilities and this brought about what is known 
as the first. Seminole War. In June, 1817, An- 
drew Jackson was given command in Georgia. 
Assuming that he had the support of the govern- 
ment he at once began clearing out the filibusters 
in Florida. He led his forces into East Flor- 
ida and finding there two of^cious English sub- 
jects named Ambruster and Arbuthnot, who were 
stirring up the Indians, he put them to death. 
This characteristically impetuous action brought 
great embarrassment to President Monroe and 
his Cabinet. Calhoun wished Jackson censured, 
while all the other Cabinet officers were ready to 
disavow the deed. The posts seized by Jackson 
were given up, but Spain was now ready to sell, 
and in 1819 East and West Florida were formally 
ceded to the United States. The treaty was rati- 
fied in 182 1, but civil government was not es- 
tablished until the following year. 

General Jackson was appointed military gov- 
ernor of the new territory and held the ofifice 
until 1822, when he was succeeded by William 
P. Duval, the first civil governor. 
"•^ The settlement of the newly acquired lands was 
slow, to a great extent on account of difficulties 
with the Indians. These were the so-called Semi- 
nole tribes, which originally formed a part of the 
Creeks, but separated from the main confederacy 
and overran the Florida Peninsula, when the 
Creek country was almost depopulated by the 




In Old St. Augustine 




c 
o 

T3 

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o 



O 
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HISTORY 41 

English in 1702-3. Among them were also de- 
scendants of the Yemassees who had been driven 
out of Carolina by the English in 1715. There 
was also a considerable negro element from run- 
away slaves. In 1822 they were reported to 
number 3,100, besides 800 negroes living with 
them. The settlers in Florida demanded the re- 
moval of these tribes to lands west of the Missis- 
sippi, and on May 9, 1832, a treaty was signed by 
the representatives of the United States and 
chiefs of the Seminole Indians, in which the latter 
consented to such removal. A delay of two years 
occurred before the treaty was ratified and this 
produced an unfavorable effect upon the Indians. 
When preparations were finally made for their 
removal, many refused to go. The year 1835 
was spent in fruitless negotiations. Outrages 
perpetrated by both Indians and white settlers 
caused bad feeling. At the end of this year the 
Seminoles had divided into two parties. Those 
abiding by the treaty took refuge in Fort Brooke, 
and the others, under the famous leader, Osceola, 
resorted to arms. This redoubtable warrior was 
the son of an English trader and an Indian 
woman, the daughter of a Creek chief. He had 
removed to Florida when very young and had 
acquired great influence among the Seminoles 
and took the lead in opposition to the territorial 
aggressions of the whites. In 1835, his wife, a 
half-breed daughter of a fugitive negro slave, was 
reclaimed as a slave by her mother's former 
owner, and Osceola, infuriated by this, threat- 
ened revenge. He was temporarily imprisoned, 
but on being released began the attacks on the 
whites which opened the Seminole War. A 



42 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

United States government agent, named Thomp- 
son, and several others were treacherously killed 
by Osceola. The American troops in the terri- 
tory were garrisoned in two forts, Fort King near 
the Ocklawaha river and Fort Brooke at Tampa 
Bay. All together they numbered less than 450 
men. Between these two forts in almost inac- 
cessible swamps lay the rebellious Indians. A 
detachment of soldiers, numbering no men, un- 
der the command of Major Dade, marching to 
Fort Brooke from Fort King, was surrounded by 
Indians on December 28, 1835, and all but three 
of the men were killed. This atrocity aroused 
great indignation throughout the country. Three 
days later General Clinch defeated the Indians 
on the Withlacoochee river. He then retired to 
Fort Drane. At that time the military forces of 
the United States were divided into two divi- 
sions, eastern and western. Of these General 
Gaines commanded the Western and General 
Winfield S. Scott the Eastern. General Gaines, 
hearing of the massacre of the American force, 
sailed for Tampa on the " Louisiana " with a con- 
siderable number of troops. Learning that Gen- 
eral Scott had been directed to take command of 
the campaign in Florida, he withdrew. Soon af- 
terwards Scott took the field with a large force, 
carrying on the campaign in March and April, 
1836. There were, however, few results from 
this. In June, Governor Call, who had taken 
over the command, inflicted a defeat on the In- 
dians, and the greater number of them withdrew 
to South Florida. In March, 1837, the chiefs ca- 
pitulated, and agreed to emigration. The agree- 
ment, however, was not carried out, but during 



HISTORY 43 

the process of the negotiations, Osceola was 
seized by the Americans and held captive. He 
soon afterwards died. The war continued, and 
in May, 1838, General Taylor, who five months 
previously had defeated the Indians at Okecho- 
pee, took command. A desultory struggle now 
continued for several years. In 1841 Colonel 
Worth took command of the American troops 
and entered upon an active campaign in which 
he penetrated the Everglades to which the rem- 
nant of the Indians had fled and compelled them 
to surrender. This war was the bloodiest ever 
carried on with the Indians. It cost the United 
States thousands of lives and the expenditure of 
$10,000,000. The Indians, with the exception of 
a few hundred, who remained in Florida, were 
removed to the Indian Territory, where their de- 
scendants constitute the Seminole nation. 

A convention to formulate a constitution for 
Florida was held in 1839 and in 1845 the territory 
became a State of the American Union. Settle- 
ment in the new State lagged and population in- 
creased slowly. There was, however, a steady 
growth. No events of historical importance oc- 
curred until 1861 when, by an ordinance of seces- 
sion declaring Florida to be " a sovereign and 
independent nation," she joined her sister States 
in rebelling against the Union. The important 
coast towns which were open to attack were 
readily captured by Union forces. Fernandina, 
Pensacola and St. Augustine were taken in 1862, 
and Jacksonville in 1863. An attempt to invade 
the interior of the State in 1864 failed, and the 
Union forces were defeated in a battle at Olustee, 
February 20, 1864. A new State government was 



44 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

organized by Andrew Johnson and a provisional 
governor appointed in 1865. The Fourteenth 
Amendment was rejected by the legislature in 
1866 and Florida was soon afterwards made a 
member of the Third Military District. It re- 
mained under military rule until 1868, when a 
new constitution was framed and ratified by the 
electors. 

From this period onward the State has grown 
industrially and has been in that happy condition 
in which it has had little political history. What 
it has come to be as a prosperous and progressive 
Commonwealth is shown in the following pages. 

Antiquities of Florida 

Almost all the Spanish antiquities of the State, 
concerning which any historical facts are known, 
are in the cities of St. Augustine and Pensacola, 
and are to some extent described elsewhere in 
the description of these cities. But over the 
whole northern part of the State isolated ruins 
are found, sometimes near settlements, some- 
times hidden in the depths of an almost prime- 
val forest, relics about which only vague tradi- 
tion and popular legend have anything to say. 
Sometimes they are apparently the remnants of 
fortified houses, sometimes of Franciscan mis- 
sions and monasteries, sometimes of sugar mills. 
Near them the soil occasionally still shows the 
traces of early cultivation by the Indians, by the 
Spaniards or by the English. Florida history 
has perhaps not received all the study it deserves. 
Much, doubtless, might be discovered about the 
State's ruins, and it is to be hoped that local an- 
tiquarians will some day lift a little of the mys- 
tery that lies over them. 



HISTORY 45 

^^The origin, date, and purpose of the many 
mounds of Florida are equally uncertain. Both 
shell and sand mounds are found all over the 
State. They are evidently the work of the abo- 
riginal race of the region, and they generally yield 
to the digger fragments of pottery, sometimes 
bones, and more rarely silver trinkets, beads, etc. 
They might well form a subject of winter inves- 
tigation by any tourist willing to turn archaeolo- 
gist. 
_::- The mounds are of two kinds, shell and sand. 
The former might be subdivided into those com- 
posed of fresh-water, and those of salt-water 
shells. The fresh-water shell mounds are found 
along the St. John's river and other streams. 
They are often of considerable length and 
breadth, though rarely of any great height. 
- The shell mounds of the coast are very numer- 
ous, both on the Atlantic and on the Gulf. They 
are often in the form of mere ridges, more or 
less shapeless accumulations. But sometimes, 
as in the well-known Turtle IMound at New 
Smyrna, and the mounds at Charlotte Harbor 
and Cedar Keys, they are more strikingly sym- 
metrical, and force one to believe that they must 
have been intended by their makers for burial 
and religious purposes. 

- Opinion as to the origin of these mounds is 
varied and mostly vague. It is fairly certain 
that the shells are the accumulation of many 
years during a time when shell-fish must have 
been one of the most important foods of the 
natives. The mounds may mark the sites of 
large permanent settlements, or of camps to 
which the inhabitants of the interior resorted 
to subsist on sea food while their crops were 



46 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

ripening. The amount of shells is so great, so 
astounding, that one is forced to the conclusion 
that the shell mounds must have been long years 
in building, unless at some period the aboriginal 
population was much greater than any of the 
early writers report it to have been. 

It is certain that at the time of their building, 
or later by invading and conquering tribes from 
the north, they were used for burial purposes. 
Human bones have been found and it is claimed 
evidences of cannibalism. 

The sand mounds are scattered through the 
State, perhaps the most interesting being the 
so-called " Kissimmee System " of mounds on 
Parton's Island, which resemble the earthworks 
of the mound-builders of the Mississippi valley. 
The sand mounds seem occasionally to have been 
designed as protective fortifications ; occasionally 
as burial mounds. At Charlotte Harbor and 
near Lake Okeechobee (Dougherty Mound) in- 
teresting mounds are to be seen. Mount Royal 
on the St. John's is famous. 

There is a fairly extensive literature on the 
subject in archaeological journals and in the re- 
ports of the Smithsonian Institute at Washing- 
ton. To these the reader who would like further 
facts and speculations, is referred. 




Osceola 




C3 



O 



TOPOGRAPHY AND GENERAL CHARAC- 
TERISTICS 

^Florida is the most southern of the United 
States, lying between 24° 31' and 31° N. latitude, 
and 79° 48' and 87^ 38' W. longitude. It is the 
largest State east of the Mississippi, its area 
being 58,666 square miles — of which 3,805 are 
water. It has the longest coast line of any State 
in the Union, 472 miles on the Atlantic Ocean, 
674 miles on the Gulf of Mexico. 

Its configuration, of a great peninsula extend- 
ing toward Cuba and the West Indies, between 
the Atlantic and the Gulf, with a long western 
arm along the north coast of the Gulf, separat- 
ing Georgia and for the most part Alabama from 
its waters, makes it noticeable on the national 
map, and is familiar to almost everyone. 
N Nearly all the Atlantic Coast consists of sand 
dunes behind which is a salt lagoon. This is 
largely true of the Gulf Coast. The curving line 
of the East Coast is continued south and west 
into the Gulf by the chain of islands known as 
the Florida Keys, ending, beyond Key West, in 
the Dry Tortugas. 

The western arm of the State is topographic- 
ally like Southern Alabama, a rolling hill country 
sloping to the plain next the gulf. The penin- 
sular part of the State is largely formed upon 
a limestone foundation, overlaid toward the ex- 
treme south by coral deposits. It is in this un- 
derlying limestone that flow the numberless un- 
derground streams which feed the remarkable 

47 



48 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Florida springs and the artesian or flowing wells 
which are found almost all over the State. This 
same peculiar drainage system explains the vast 
body of fresh water forming the Everglades and 
finding its outlet by breaking through the lime- 
stone and coral rim which keeps it at a level of 
some twelve feet above the sea. Altogether the 
Floridian water is one of the most interesting 
and curious things about the State. 

Some of the springs are of great size and 
volume. Silver Spring and Blue Spring in Ma- 
rion County, Blue Spring, De Leon Spring, 
Orange City Spring in Volusia County, Chipola 
Spring in Jackson County, Espiritu Santo 
Spring in Hillsboro County, Magnolia Springs 
and Green Cove Springs in Clay County, Su- 
wanee Spring in Suwanee County, White Sul- 
phur Springs in Hamilton County, Wekiva 
Springs in Orange County, Wakulla Springs, 
Newport Sulphur Spring and Panacea Spring 
in Wakulla County, are the best known. To 
give but one example of the magnitude of their 
flow, the Green Cove Springs discharge about 
3,000 gallons per minute, while from the Silver 
Spring flows a stream which floats the Ockla- 
waha steamers. At several places on the coast, 
springs rise in the sea itself, one notably, near St. 
Augustine, rolls back the waves as if it were a 
sand bar. 

■^ These springs and underground rivers feed 
also Florida's innumerable lakes which lie in 
sink holes in the limestone. Of these there are 
in the central region alone, between Gainesville 
and the great lake of the south, Okeechobee, ap- 
proximately 30,000. Orange, Crescent, George, 



TOPOGRAPHY 49 

Weir, Harris, Eustis, Apopka, Kissimmee, To- 
hopekilaga, and Istokpoga are the principal ones. 
Okeechobee itself, though shallow, covers 1,250 
square miles. 

Through the central part runs a ridge or water- 
shed which divides the Atlantic and the Gulf 
water-systems, though it rarely rises above a 
few hundred feet. The elevation of the State 
is less than that of any except Louisiana. Its 
highest point, Table Mountain in Lake County, 
is only 500 feet high. 

•, The St. John's is preeminently the great river 
of the State, within the boundaries of which are 
both its source and its mouth. It is navigable 
for 250 miles. The Withlacoochee is the other 
important river wholly within the State. The 
four other large rivers, the Escambia, the Choc- 
tawhatchee, the Apalachicola and the Suwanee 
— famous mostly in song — rise in Alabama and 
Georgia and flow through Florida to the Gulf. 

Fernandina has a fine harbor, and dredging 
works and jetties have made the St. John's serve 
Jacksonville in this capacity. Otherwise the 
Atlantic Coast possesses no harbors of impor- 
tance. 

The west coast is better provided; Charlotte 
Harbor, Tampa Bay, and Pensacola Bay are the 
most important, Pensacola indeed in natural ad- 
vantages being often claimed as the best of all 
Gulf Ports. 

The soils of Florida are to be divided roughly 
speaking into three classes. The pinelands, 
sand mixed with some vegetable loam and rest- 
ing upon a substratum of clay or limestone, cover 
almost half the area of the State. " Hammock " 



50 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA I 

land is of similar ingredients, though richer and 
supporting a more varied and luxuriant forest 
growth. " Hammocks " are interspersed in the 
pine lands through many parts of the State. 
The word " hammock," variously explained to 
the visitor, is probably the word which the ab- 
original Indian inhabitants used; it is said to be 
the only survival, in modern Floridian speech, 
of the language of that earlier race. 

Alluvial or swamp lands are found in east and 
south Florida. These are the richest in the 
State, but can be cultivated only when drained. 
"^The Spanish explorers came to Florida first 
of all for gold. Remembering this, it is in- 
teresting to note that no metal of any kind has 
ever been discovered in the State. The principal 
mineral is phosphate, both rock and pebble. The 
rock phosphate is mostly in Marion County. 
The pebble phosphate is found in scattering de- 
posits in a belt about 30 miles wide extending 
from Tallahassee to Lake Okeechobee, most rich 
in Hillsboro, Polk, De Soto, Osceola, Citrus and 
Hernando Counties. The value of these de- 
posits, used in the manufacture of fertilizers, 
was unrealized twenty years ago. But Florida's 
production is now more than half of the whole 
output of the United States, and enormously 
valuable. 

^^ Florida is also the chief source of Fuller's earth 
and kaolin, a clay used in porcelain manufacture. 
The flora of the northern part of Florida is 
similar to that of southeastern North America; 
but that of south Florida seems a kind of con- 
necting link between that of North America and 
that of the West Indies and South America. 



TOPOGRAPHY 51 

Forests still cover almost half the State, 
chiefly in the northern part. Yellow pine is one 
of the most important products of the State, 
cypress is also a valuable timber. 
"^ The fisheries of Florida are very valuable. 
Some 600 varieties of fish are found in Florida 
waters. Mullet, shad, red-snapper, pompano, 
sheepshead and Spanish mackerel are the chief 
commercially, the tarpon and the king-fish being 
taken mostly in sport. The sponge fisheries 
around Key West are of considerable value. 
Oysters grow in the greatest profusion along the 
Floridian lagoons, but the expense of transporta- 
tion — and its slowness — have so far prevented 
them from being to any extent rivals of the 
northern oysters. They, as well as fish, are, how- 
ever, to be enjoyed by the visitor to the State. 

The principal occupation of Florida is agri- 
culture, although even now only a surprisingly 
small part of the State's area is improved and oc- 
cupied. Of public lands open for entry, there 
are still 391,361 acres of surveyed land, 61,648 of 
unsurveyed. 

Fruits are normally the chief crop, oranges, 
lemons, limes, grape-fruit, pine-apples, bananas, 
guavas, pears, peaches, grapes, figs, pecans being 
the most important. 

Orange culture was formerly an industry all 
over the State, but severe frosts having de- 
stroyed many of the northern groves, the orange 
growers are increasingly to be found farther 
south, while the northern lands are being devoted 
to less tender fruit trees, or to garden vegetables 
and strawberries. With increased transporta- 
tion facilities Florida early fruits and vegetables 



52 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

are beginning to take the position they deserve 
in the northern winter markets. 

The pineapple is raised in south Florida suc- 
cessfully and is a most valuable crop. 

Indian corn, rice, and cotton are raised, though 
not in quantities which compare with the other 
Southern states. 

Tobacco, however, is an increasingly valuable 
crop, though the State can by no means raise 
what is required by its extensive manufactures; 
3,195,000 lbs. were produced last year. 

Florida manufactures, though increasing, are 
not relatively important, with the exception of 
the manufacture of tobacco. The cigar factor- 
ies of the State, mostly at Tampa and Key West, 
turn out a large part of the cigars of the United 
States. 

The population of Florida in 1910 was 751,139. 
Its railway mileage is 4,252 miles. It has local 
option and there are 35 prohibition counties. 



CLIMATE 

The question of climate is to many visitors to 
Florida the all-important and all-absorbing one. 
It is to escape climatic conditions which they do 
not like that most tourists come South, and trust- 
worthy and accurate information is essential to 
them. Florida makes the claim to have a cli- 
mate which is in some respects the best in the 
world. But the fair-minded visitor must bear in 
mind that only in averages is anything true about 
any climate in the world, and that there are ex- 
ceptions to every rule. There are seasons in 
Florida which must be termed, comparatively 
speaking, good and bad. 

Florida may in truth be said to offer summer 
in winter, yet there are exceptional years when 
the cold somehow manages to invade the penin- 
sula. It is common for people to say that " the 
climate must certainly be changing," that " such 
things as frost " were unknown " in the old 
days." Their view is scarcely borne out by facts. 
—t^In 1765 John Bartram, an English botanist, 
whose pleasant book is well worth reading, 
spent the winter in East Florida. He recounts 
that on January 3rd at St. Augustine the ground 
was frozen to the depth of an inch and that all 
the lime, citron, and orange trees were destroyed. 
-*^ In 1774 there was a snow storm over all the 
territory. 

In 1822, in February all the fruit trees in West 

53 



54 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Florida were killed. In 1828 the same thing 
happened in East Florida. 

-In 1835 there was a famous frost. The St. 
John's was frozen several yards from each 
shore. 

There have been " big freezes " since. It is 
probable there may be more. Yet one may say 
safely that there is a frost line and that a certain 
portion of South Florida is safe from danger, 
while above this line there is ordinarily to be 
counted on a summery winter. Blue skies, soft 
airs, golden fruit and bright hued flowers do make 
the Florida picture, and the Northern visitor may 
t^e sure of finding them. 

"Florida, climatically, is generally explained as 
being divided into three zones, called for con- 
venience, northern, semi-tropical, and sub- 
tropical Florida. The first of these lies north 
and west of a line drawn from Cedar Keys on 
the Gulf Coast to Fernandina on the Atlantic, 
the Gulf Coast being cooler for its latitude than 
the Atlantic. The warm waters of the^-gulf do 
not extend their influence far inland, and the 
elevation of this northern zone also makes its 
climate more like that of Alabama and Georgia. 
The winters are cooler and the summers warmer 
than they are in the more southern zones. 

Semi-tropical Florida may be said to extend to 
a line between the mouth of the Caloosahatchee 
on the west coast to Indian River Inlet on the 
east. This is the largest part of the Florida 
frequented by winter residents or visitors. Its 
range of extremes of temperature is less than 
that of northern Florida. Its climate is equal- 
ized and tempered by the wonderful influence of 



CLIMATE 55 

the Gulf Stream. It is scarcely necessary to 
describe this great ocean river which issuing 
from the Strait of Florida flows along the Flor- 
idian coast and then gradually out to sea, pass- 
ing Hatteras and ultimately turning northeast 
where it finally tempers the west coasts of Ire- 
land and Scotland. (It will surprise many 
Floridians to learn that there are favored spots 
on the west coast of Scotland where palms will 
grow in the open.) 

The prevailing Florida winds are east and they 
bring constantly in and sweep constantly across 
the peninsula towards the Gulf a supply of fresh, 
pure, highly oxygenized air. The peculiar com- 
bination of warmth and salty freshness is some- 
thing which it is difficult if not impossible to 
match elsewhere. To be warmed, soothed, and 
yet at the same time invigorated is a sensation 
which is almost incredible to those who have 
not felt the breath of the southeast trade-wind 
pour in over this favored land. 

In sub- Lrdpical Florida the Gulf Stream is even 
closer to the shore (it leaves the coast near Jupi- 
ter Inlet) and its influence still greater. The 
nearness of the great fresh water expanse of the 
Everglades helps to make this the most equable 
region of the State, and so of the United States. 
Its summer and winter temperatures are closer 
together and it is safely below the frost line. 
It is perhaps in this region that the Florida cli- 
mate is most wonderful. 

Yet there are many who will prefer the some- 
what greater variation of the other zones, who 
will enjoy seeing the modified Floridian version 
of winter change to spring, and who will find 



56 A GUIDK TO FLORIDA 

more charm in the mingling of northern decidu- 
ous growth with the southern flora, than in the 
more definitely tropical vegetation of the extreme 
south. Each region of Florida has its lovers and 
its impassioned advocates. It is largely a ques- 
tion of the visitor's taste where he will find him- 
self best pleased. In any case the search for 
the climate which will exactly suit him will be 
an agreeable one, and it may confidently be as- 
serted that on the whole the Florida weather has 
few equals and no superiors in the world. Ex- 
perts sometimes allege that the island of For- 
mosa is a worthy competitor, but a winter jaunt 
to an island in the Pacific ofi the coast of China 
is not within the possibilities of the ordinary 
tourist. 

California, which is a rival of Florida, has the 
misfortune to have its rains come in the winter 
instead of in the summer and early autumn when 
Florida's come. And it unquestionably lacks 
the peculiar soft tranquilizing quality which 
Florida possesses. 

Florida was once strongly recommended for 
pulmonary complaints. It is certain that its 
climate does not encourage them ; on the other 
hand for actual cure it is not perhaps so effi- 
cacious, according to modern ideas, as a colder, 
drier climate. Throat affections are, however, 
relieved if not absolutely cured by it. And 
though the fact is perhaps not thoroughly recog- 
nized, nervous patients find great relief in the 
gentle airs from the Gulf Stream. 

It is quite possible to spend the summer in 
Florida, though the inhabitants of the interior 
seek the sea beaches during that season when 



CLIMATE 57 

they can. The heat of the days does not rise 
to the point one might expect; indeed it rarely 
touches the high mark of hot spells in the cities 
of the North. And the nights are cooler than 
nights in the north during extreme heat. On the 
other hand, as is only natural in an equable 
climate, the heat is constant and little varied. 
And the insect pests, mosquitoes and the offen- 
sive though minute red bug which burrows into 
the skin, are extremely disagreeable. If it is 
inconvenient to leave Florida, it is quite pos- 
sible to stay there during the summer, but it can- 
not be definitely recommended as a summer re- 
sort. 

For those who may wish a more definitely 
scientific treatment of this subject of climate the 
report of the United States weather bureau is re- 
printed. 

Northern Florida ^ 

The climate is uniform as a result of the State's 
insular location, and this condition is further ac- 
centuated by the large bodies of water within the 
State. Lake Okeechobee, in Section 84, alone 
covers an area of one thousand square miles, and 
the combined area of the lesser bodies of water 
is an element of considerable importance. The 
normal annual isothermal line of 68° begins at 
Jacksonville, in the extreme northeastern portion 
of the State, moving thence southwest, with a 
slight dip in the interior of the section, to Pen- 
sacola. The difiference of four degrees in lati- 
tude southward to Miami gives about a 7° change 
in temperature. Average temperature, however, 

1 From the Bulletin of the U. S. Weather Bureau. 



S8 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

is not the factor with which the fruit and vege- 
table growers have to do. The nature of some 
of the products grown and their susceptibility to 
damage by cold are involved in the degree to 
which the temperature may fall during extreme 
conditions. The seasonal temperatures, based 
on long records of well selected stations are: 
Summer, 80° ; autumn, y^"" ; winter, 56° ; and 
spring, 70°, indicating that the contrast in the 
seasons is not marked. Notwithstanding this 
uniformity of temperature, however, past records 
show that it is susceptible to decided ranges. 
Warm spells in March and April are not uncom- 
mon and, occasionally, the maximum summer 
temperatures are approximated during March. 
On the other hand, while uniform temperatures 
are the rule, yet radical departures from normal 
conditions have occurred, chiefly in February and 
December. There have been marked cold waves 
during the last twelve or fifteen years, particu- 
larly in December, 1894, and February, 1895 and 
1899; during the last named year the lowest 
temperature ever recorded in the State, minus 
( — ) 2°, occurred at Tallahassee, Leon County, 
and on the same date, the 13th of February, the 
section comprised a zone whose minimum tem- 
peratures ranged from 2° below to 10° or 14° 
above zero. This was the coldest weather of 
which there is authentic record. As indicated 
by the latitude, the temperature of the section 
averages high, but the discomfort is less than 
that usually accredited to sections located in the 
semi-tropics; in fact, the discomfort generally 
arises from the long continuation of summer 
weather rather than the extreme heat thereof, 



CLIMATE 59 

which rarely reaches ioo° on the coast.^ July 
and August are the warmest months with an 
average of 8i° ; thereafter there is a rapid decline 
to 56° in December and January, which are the 
coldest months. There are only about 2° dif- 
ference in the average temperatures of spring 
and autumn, the latter being the warmer. The 
summers are warmer in the interior of the State 
than on the coast, and conversely in the winter. 
Days of extreme heat are usually followed by 
ccnvectional thunder showers, a temperature 
change of 20°, or more, within a few hours being 
a feature of summer weather. 

Frost may occur over the northern portion of 
the section during the first decade in November, 
and at intervals light frost may be expected dur- 
ing the last of October. It is rarely damaging, 
however, before the second decade of November, 
or the fore part of December, and occasionally the 
lower counties of the section experience none of 
any severity during the entire winter. The last 
of February, on an average, marks the passing 
of dangerous frost, although the vagaries of the 
climate are indicated in the possibility of frost 
occurring as late as the first of April ; fortunately, 
however, such incidents are so rare as not to 
merit serious reflection. March frosts have 
damaged fruit bloom over some of the northern 
counties, but such is possible, as a rule, only 
when the preceding February was abnormally 
warm and wet, thereby stimulating premature 
growth. This condition, when followed by mid- 
winter temperatures in March, is necessarily 
damaging to bloom and tender buds. 

There are rain-bearing winds, and winds that 



6o A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

are relatively dry. As a rule, the rainfall is quite 
uniform and seasonable, the proximity to the 
Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf being such as to 
render a severe drouth an unexpected contin- 
gency. Abnormal distribution of atmospheric 
pressure occasionally results in dry spells, and 
the importance of irrigation, even in this land 
of heavy precipitation, is a matter of much con- 
sequence. The fact that droughty conditions 
sometime occur during the autumn and spring, 
militates occasionally against a maximum realiz- 
ation of the husbandman's efforts, and to offset 
which much interest is taken in sub and surface 
irrigation. 



CLIMATE 



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64 



A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 



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Southern Florida 



The period of observations for many stations is 
sufficiently long to cover probably the extreme 
fluctuations of the several climatic elements, and 
the stations with comparatively short records are 
so situated geographically as to come v^^ithin the 
measure of those stations v^ith records of many 
years. 

The temperature is the most important ele- 
ment entering into the climate of the district, be- 
cause a large percentage of the products grown 
are subject to serious damage by low tempera- 
tures. Owing to the uniformity of the tempera- 
ture throughout the district, it may be well to 
state that the record of any point in the section 
not mentioned will vary but slightly from the 
record of the station nearest to it, that appears 
in the table. It should not be overlooked, how- 
ever, that those stations near the coast, or in the 
vicinity of large bodies of water, have more 
equable temperatures; i. e., they are somewhat 
warmer in winter and cooler in summer. As 
might be expected from the altitude and latitude, 
the range in temperature is unimportant, and 
though the summers are long, the extreme heat, 
even at stations in the southern portion of the 
district, is rarely ioo°. During the warmest part 
of the day atmospheric circulation is most active, 
the winds sweeping across the Peninsula from 
the ocean or gulf, and thereby mitigating, in a 
great measure, the disagreeable sequences of 
warm days and high humidity. The warmest 
weather occurs during July and August, when 
maximum temperatures of ioo°, or slightly more, 



66 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

may be recorded at stations in the interior. The 
mean summer temperatures range from about 
80° to 82°, continuing about 80° during Septem- 
ber in the southern portion. As a rule, the Oc- 
tober average is from 6° to 8° cooler than Sep- 
tember. As the last mentioned two months con- 
stitute the period of maximum cyclonic activity, 
there are many days during those months when 
the winds are from the north to northeast, there- 
by dispelling the feeling of lassitude natural to 
the season for that latitude. The mean temper- 
ature continues well up in the 6o's during No- 
vember, but in December and January, the 
average is 60°, or slightly below, in the northern 
portion. While February is not the coldest 
month, judged by average temperatures, yet 
the most severe cold waves have occurred dur- 
ing that month, except in the southern portion 
of the State, where the coldest weather usually 
takes place during January. The lowest temper- 
ature ever recorded in the district is 14° at Inver- 
ness, which occurred in February, 1899. Years 
of widespread disaster to fruits and vegetables 
were January, 1886, December, 1894, and Feb- 
ruary, 1895 and 1899, which comprehend the ex- 
treme conditions that have prevailed during the 
fundamental period, 1871 to 1908. Authentic 
data, however, covering a period of about fifty 
years antedating 1871, show that severe cold 
waves occurred in 1835 and 1857 

Frost may be expected over the upper and 
central portions from the latter part of Novem- 
ber to March, inclusive, rarely severe, however, 
before December and January, and it is not in- 
frequent that winters pass without damaging 
frost; and such is the rule over the southern 



CLIMATE dy 

portion of the district. It may be well to add, 
however, that the " frost line " probably extends 
to the southern limit of the Florida mainland 
under extreme conditions. The only portions of 
the section absolutely exempt from frost are the 
'*' Florida Keys " — the islands jutting into the 
ocean and gulf from the southern borders of 
Dade and Monroe Counties. 

Precipitation 

The records of precipitation cover varying 
periods, ranging from less than a decade, to thirty 
years or more. In many cases the fragmentary 
records have been completed by utilizing the 
data from near-by stations and estimating there- 
from the probable amount for the missing pe- 
riod. Although the distribution and frequency of 
rainfall are generally quite uniform, yet there 
are wide ranges in the daily, monthly, seasonal, 
and annual amounts. In practically every section 
of the district there have been daily falls of 8 to lo 
inches, monthly falls of 20 to 30 inches, and an- 
nual amounts ranging from slightly more than 
20 inches, to 80 inches, and, in a few instances, 
the annual total approximated 100 inches. As 
against this record, however, there is the pos- 
sibility of the monthly total being not more than 
a trace during occasional droughts. The annual 
precipitation is greatest on the southeast coast 
— that portion of the Peninsula being in or near 
the most frequent track of tropical disturbances. 
From the region of maximum amount the rain- 
fall diminishes northward to something less than 
50 inches in the northeastern portion of the dis- 
trict, and to less than 40 inches in the extreme 
south portion. 



68 



A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 



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SPORTS 

Bowling, Tennis and Golf. — All through the 
State the out-of-doors calls, and games are played. 
Bowling both in alleys and on greens ; croquet, 
peacefully pursued ; tennis courts in almost every 
town, and golf links of fair merit at various 
hotels and country clubs, all make amusements 
for the visitor and resident. 

Base Ball and Foot Ball. — Base ball is played 
in all the large towns. In some of them pro- 
fessional clubs play (see local papers). Where 
there are advanced schools there are students' 
teams. The employes of the various larger 
hotels also have contest games. Foot ball is 
played in the town where there are colleges. 

Horse Racing. — There has been for some years 
racing at Jacksonville, but it has been decided 
politically that it was inimical to the best in- 
terests of the town, and it has been stopped. At 
county and district fairs through the State there 
are still contests of speed making interest 
for the lovers of this sport. 

Bicycling. — The bicycle has kept its vogue in 
Florida, and in all the towns and, where there are 
good roads in the country, both the ordinary 
and motor cycle is much in evidence. In addi- 
tion to the many other reasons for this popular- 
ity one, especially in the tropic parts of this 
State, holds good, it is a means by which men 
and women can go to and from their work in 

72 



SPORTS 73 

comfort. Mornings and evenings the roads are 
filled with these riders. 

Riding. — Through the whole State there are 
bridle paths, and ways across and through primi- 
tive country that make riding a great pleasure. 
In the neighborhood of Tallahassee there is rid- 
ing to hounds — a sport which attracts its spe- 
cial followers yearly. Polo is regularly played 
at Orlando. 

Motoring. — Except in some sections of the 
northern part of the State, the soil is so sandy 
that there are no good natural roads. Ex- 
ceptions to this are the beach drives, where the 
ocean is the maker, and some of the roads 
through primeval pine forests where the carpet 
of needles gives firmness to the sand. Indeed 
the lesson taught by this latter natural method 
has resulted in the building of temporary roads 
on these lines near Mount Dora, which have been 
found satisfactory. There is no general State 
road commission. Each County Board of Com- 
missioners makes its own rules, and as there is 
no concerted action it is readily understood that 
there is no continuous highway. In the western 
part of the State and about Tallahassee there are 
fairly good roads in the winter time. Motorists 
come to Elorida from Thomasville, Georgia, and 
they can reach the towns in the northern part of 
the State with a fair amount of comfort. About 
Jacksonville there are many good roads through- 
out Duval and St. John's counties. There are 
from there two ways to Tampa ; one, via Mariet- 
ta, Starke, Gainesville and Ocala — (Here the 
motorist gets information for reaching Tampa. 
The second way is via St. Augustine, Ormond, 



74 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Daytona, DeLand, Sanford, Orlando and Kis- 
simmee — here directions for reaching Tampa 
are obtained). About Tampa there are good 
local roads. Each town of any size has roads 
that are hard-surfaced in its neighborhood. The 
highway down the East Coast is slowly being 
completed, or ** connected up " as is said in the 
vernacular. Motoring about Ormond and Day- 
tona is encouraged by the beach drive between 
these places. Local committees arrange races 
and carnivals here each year. Many of the 
world's speed records have been made on this 
beach. From Daytona south, the good road runs 
to New Smyrna and on toward Titusville. Brev- 
ard and St. Lucie counties have not as yet done 
their work on the continuous highway south. 
Palm Beach county's road begins at the bridge 
across the St. Lucie river, and from there south 
all through this county and in Dade county there 
are good roads ; not only is there the main high- 
way, but also branch roads out toward the Ever- 
glades, and to settlements, groves and planta- 
tions on their borders, have been built. These 
good roads extend as far south as Homestead. 
In the Lake country are many stretches of wide- 
built roads, but further south on the West Coast, 
there is much to be desired. 

-^ Canoeing. — This is a favorite sport all over 
Florida, during the winter season, on the East 
Coast, through all the sheltered waters from 
Jacksonville to Miami, and in the rivers and 
sheltered bays of the West Coast. A particu- 
larly interesting waterway for canoeists is the 
St. John's river, with its chain of lakes extend- 
ing southward. The U. S. Coast and Geodetic 




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SPORTS 75 

Survey charts Nos. 577, 455^., 455c., 445^., 508, 
509 and 458 will be useful from the St. John to 
Lake Washington. An enterprising explorer 
can, with a short portage by railroad from Clifton 
on Lake Jessup to Kissimmee, reach the chain 
of lakes and rivers that form the waterway to 
Fort Myers and Charlotte Harbor on the West 
Coast. 

J Motor and Sailboat Cruising. — Boats come 
from the north both by the East Coast, the At- 
lantic Ocean and the sheltered way, and by the 
Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico, and the 
sounds and bays tributary to it. The East Coast 
route is fully explained (See p. 323 Inland 
Waterways). The other way is becoming more 
important each year, affording a route by which 
boats from the Great Lakes district of the north- 
west can reach Florida expeditiously. The gov- 
ernment charts for this cruise should be used and 
all the general advice given for the Inland Water- 
way followed. The long stretches of open water 
and the fact that, until Homosassa is reached, 
there is no reason for lingering, make this route 
one of necessity, not of choice. From Homosassa 
on to the Ten Thousand Islands and Cape Sable 
there is a succession of bays, inlets, etc., which 
are in themselves each attractive cruising 
grounds, but between each of these are stretches 
of outside open gulf, that must be navigated in 
the onward journey up and down the coast. The 
fishing is unexcelled, and in the sub-tropic part 
of the State primitive conditions add to the other 
attractions. 

Climate has much to do with the comfort of 
the boatman. In the northern part of the State, 



'^(i A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

along the East Coast south to Daytona, and 
along the west to Homosassa, the weather during 
the winter has occasional cold days, and there 
is sometimes a touch of frost in the air though 
there is but little rain. The waters in this part 
of the State are not very extensively used as 
cruising grounds. From Daytona to Palm 
Beach and from Homosassa to Charlotte Harbor 
the weather is much warmer. There are occa- 
sional northers which are usually concomitant 
with very low temperature in the north (though 
by no means do the cold waves always reach 
Florida). These winds make warm clothes com- 
fortable aboard ship, but the days on which they 
blow are just the ones for shore excursions. 
From Palm Beach southward on the East Coast, 
and from Charlotte Harbor on the West the 
climatic conditions are ideal for life on shipboard 
during the winter months. It is never cold and 
frequently in the middle of the day it is as warm 
as in hot midsummer. 

It is not the province of this book to describe 
in detail, only to set forth the chief or guiding 
facts in regard to boating life in Florida and to 
emphasize its charm. It is well for the boatman 
to go to the southernmost waters early in the 
winter and come northward along the coast in 
the spring. To cruise from Jacksonville to Char- 
lotte Harbor by way of the East Coast and Cape 
Sable and back again makes an ideal voyage for 
the tourist, the naturalist and the sportsman. He 
goes down with the " northers," leaving winter 
behind him, and comes back, following the 
spring, and he can be in her wake all the way 
back to New York again if he so wills. 



SPORTS yy 

V The sort of boat to be used is any sort, so it 
is seaworthy and can be made to go. Some boat- 
men have merely little open motor boats with 
which they make their way from one point to 
another, stopping ashore at hotels or boarding 
houses each night or carrying tents; this class, 
however, can go no further than the sheltered 
waters of Biscayne Bay. Next comes those who 
have a little motor boat with a hunting or glass 
cabin, and a flat-bottomed row boat, as a tender. 
These can go all the way in what they call 
safety. The next class contains those boats 
which have, in addition to their engine, a sailing 
rig of some sort, this making for safety in case 
of an accident to the motor machinery. These 
are the only boats that are really fitted for cruis- 
ing in all the Florida waters. They may be of 
any size and kind, from a small cabin launch with 
an emergency mast, through the various motor 
and auxiliary sail-boats to luxurious house-boats, 
with crews ranging from the owner alone to ten 
men. A boat longer than lOO feet is unwieldy in 
the narrow turns of some of the creeks and 
dredged cuts; 75 feet is even a better length, as 
three feet is in draft. Boats drawing seven feet 
can come in at Jacksonville, St. Augustine, 
Miami, Key West, and the deeper harbors on the 
West Coast, simply to lie at anchor in the chan- 
nel's offing. It is imperative that every boat has 
a flat-bottomed row boat as a tender, if the real 
pleasure of the Florida waters is desired, and a 
shoal-draft launch is usually carried by all the 
boats of any size. 

Boats may be hired at the larger sea-side places 
by the day, or for longer periods. The ones 



78 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

most in favor cost from $15.00 to $30.00 a day, 
have accommodations for from four to six men, 
and carry a crew of from two to four. In addi- 
tion to the charter price, an allowance of $1.00 
per day per person for food is charged. The 
commissary is good and the accommodations 
comfortable. The boatmen know the fishing and 
shooting grounds, and the interesting places. A 
reasonable amount of fishing tackle is aboard 
these boats. They are usually staunch cruising 
launches with small auxiliary sail area and are 
from 50 to 65 feet in length. For the man who 
loves sailing there are auxiliary schooners, 
yachts and ketches of the same size and a little 
larger, on which the pleasures of good sailing 
can be enjoyed in addition to these others. The 
waters of Biscayne Bay are filled with pleasure 
craft of every description, and Miami is a boating 
center of importance equal to any in America 
during the winter season. 

Shooting. — There are many people who come 
to Florida for this alone and there is no place 
in winter in the United States where so much 
sport afield can be found. The average of days 
of good weather is above that of the summer 
north, there being less rain in Florida than there. 
The weather is never cold. At most there are 
frosty mornings in the northern part of the State 
the rime disappearing with the first sunbeams. 
The nights are always cool, even in the tropic 
parts of the State. Game is varied and abun- 
dant, black bear, deer, panther, wolf, wildcat, gray 
fox, weasel, mink, otter, raccoon, rabbit, squirrel, 
gopher, opossum, porcupine, and manatee are 
all found. Wild turkey, quail, woodcock, part- 



SPORTS 79 

ridge, grouse, turtle doves, pigeons, plover, 
snipe and ducks of many kinds abound. In 
north and w^est Florida quail shooting is very- 
good. The birds are smaller than those farther 
north, but they are wary and quick of flight. 
Rabbits are found here, wood doves and grouse. 
The gopher lumbers through the pine woods. 
He is not really a game bird though he is hunted 
and eaten by some of the natives. Weasels are 
found here also, and about Cedar Keys, mink. 
In the swampy hammocks are raccoons, and 
roosting in trees and on the borders of streams 
the elusive wild turkey may be found and shot. 
About Jacksonville, though not near the city, 
quail are still to be found, and up the St. John's 
and at Great Island near its mouth there are 
plenty of ducks early in the season. Quail are 
found on the island and plover and snipe along 
the shore at the mouth of the river. Better 
shooting of this same sort is to be had on the 
prairies about Enterprise in the pine woods and 
along the shores of the lakes in the central 
counties and through the upper counties of the 
West Coast. Down the East Coast there is 
duck shooting along the rivers and sounds, 
and back in the pinewoods quail, pigeon, 
turkey, wildcat, panther and deer. Game is not 
plenty until Mosquito Inlet is passed and from 
there on it increases as civilized life decreases. 
Along the peninsula from there down, are bear, 
wildcat and opossums, with shore birds of many 
kinds on the ocean beaches. In the rivers the 
duck shooting is good, the varieties very nu- 
merous and all edible. It is only late in the 
Spring that the seafood diet of their winter resort 



8o A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

gives them a fishy taste. Plover and snipe are 
to be found as well. 

In unfrequented creeks alligators are to be 
taken, and wild turkey and panthers and deer are 
on the mainland back from the shore. On the 
Keys there are opossums, coons and wildcat with 
an occasional deer, but the bird shooting there is 
the most interesting. At Cape Sable there is 
good deer shooting, with plenty of aquatic birds. 
There are wolves in the timber about White 
Water Bay. Fort Myers is in the center of the 
best shooting country and is the gateway to the 
Big Cypress country which holds all the different 
game of Florida in an immense natural preserve. 
This can also be reached from Punta Gorda. 
Further north on the West Coast, while the 
shooting is still good in places, there has been 
too much immigration and agricultural develop- 
ment for it to equal its old time repute. It is 
almost impossible to consider the shooting except 
in the northern part of the State apart from the 
cruising. Most of the good hunting grounds are 
reached by water, and gun and rod chum it 
aboard the many boats that are the sportsmen's 
temporary homes. 

Fishing.^ The most competent of fishermen, 
who really form the court of last resort in pass- 
ing judgment on the size and quality of both 
fish and story, are unanimous in placing the tar- 
pon at the head of all game fish, and the quest 
of this king of all the herring brings many 
searchers for him to Florida. He comes out of the 
sea from no one knows where and returns to an 
unknown bourne. The word is brought that the 
tarpon are leaping and the fishing begins. The 



SPORTS 8r 

classic rod, reel, and other equipment is in the 
fisherman's hand and the boatman has his part 
of the outfit ready. Then comes the setting 
forth, the day's or night's work, and the return 
with or without the spoils of the chase, and the 
crowning of it all in the story afterward. Tar- 
pon lore would make a book, and everyone who 
has ever caught one is as enthusiastic about the 
fish as a most loyal biographer. 
"^ The tarpon comes earliest to the waters about 
Cape Sable (where it is too muddy and too far 
from supplies for the fishermen to gather), to 
Long Key Fishing Camp, and also to the waters 
of the upper bay at Miami. His arrival at these 
places has been as early as the middle of Febru- 
ary. The sport begins three weeks earlier here 
than on the West Coast, where Charlotte Harbor 
deserves all its renown as the headquarters for 
tarpon fishermen. Records have been kept there 
longer, and more fully, of each season's fishing 
than anywhere else in the State. The inlets 
north from there on the West Coast are also 
good tarpon grounds. On the East Coast, about 
Indian River Inlet tarpon are also taken in large 
numbers, and late in the season they are found 
at the mouth of St. John's river. At all the 
places there are guide boats and tackle to be 
had. The guides take entire charge of the ex- 
pedition and a rank outsider may have a rare 
day's sport in charge of one of them. 
\The tarpon is of the herring family, a giant, 
weighing when grown from 70 to 180 lbs. His 
scales are of a lustrous silver hue. His fight for 
liberty and life on being caught is the gamest 
made by his kind. Not even the giant carp of the 



82 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

East Indies, the leaping tuna of California, the 
landlocked salmon of Canada, Ireland's sea 
salmon, nor the brave trout of the mountains, 
sends the thrill of challenge along the line to 
the fisherman that comes from this, the worth- 
iest of his quarry. 

"^ It is not on the tarpon alone that Florida's 
renown as a winter fishing-ground rests. The 
inland lakes and streams have fresh-water 
fishing. It is, however, the sea-fishing in the 
sheltered waters and outside that is most inter- 
esting. As the tropics are neared the shapes 
and colors of the fish that are found become more 
varied, and the catches are often a lesson in nat- 
ural history to the fisherman. Going down the 
East Coast the fishing is done in the creeks, the 
rivers, inlets, and on the reef outside, which runs 
parallel with the lower part of the Florida coast. 
In the inlets, beginning at St. John's bar, sheeps- 
head, blackfish, sailor's choice, flounders and 
whiting, with other edible fish, are to be taken, 
and with these, many undesirable foul fishes, at 
all the fishing points. At Mosquito Inlet all of 
these and many others — blackfish, calvallo, 
channel bass, grouper, ladyfish, jewfish, moon- 
fish, sergeantfish and mullet, etc. Mullet is the 
universal Florida fish. 

--i Hillsboro lagoon has good fishing, turtles are 
netted here. At Indian River Inlet is mackerel 
and tarpon fishing. At Gilbert's Bar commences 
the king fishing on the outside reef, and the man- 
grove snappers are found in quantities, pompano 
too and many Spanish mackerel. At Lake Worth 
Inlet barracuda, zonito, amberjack, margate fish, 
grunts and runners are added. At the inlets 




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SPORTS 83 

further south and in Biscayne Bay and on the 
reef is the best general fishing in Florida. The 
cuts between the Keys are good fishing grounds. 
A typical catch cruising about one of these will 
number parrot-fish, pork-fish, porgies, grunts, 
snappers, muttonfish, turbots, groupers, angel- 
fish, cowfish, and even jewfish and sharks. On 
the reef outside, kingfish, amberjack and barra- 
cuda are taken. 

• Mangrove snappers abound in the creeks be- 
low Cocoanut Grove, turtles too are found, and 
in addition to the above, sparkfish, bream, sea- 
trout, sand-perch, schoolmasters, lizard-fish, 
chub, etc. are found. Below in Pumpkin Keys 
the gamy bonefish is taken. It is also found 
on the landward side of Card's Sound near the 
opening into Barnes' Sound. Caesar's Creek is 
a favorite fishing ground. All the way to Long 
Key Camp is good fishing. Local guides know 
the grounds, which change somewhat each year. 
At Long Keys Camp is good sport, tarpon fish- 
ing, and general fishing as well. Killing shark 
which are found in the channel which the viaduct 
crosses, is great and commendable work. At 
Cape Sable with its muddy water the fisherman 
does not linger long. Tarpon spearing by the 
natives is here a specialized sport. 

The way around to the West Coast leads to 
the Coxambas Pass at Cape Romeano, and the 
same good fishing is found among the islands and 
passes there, but the best fishing on the West 
Coast begins at Charlotte Harbor where the 
ground is classic and where each inlet has its 
own set of fishermen. The same fish that are 
found about the inlets on the East Coast are 



84 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

found here. There is not, however, the outside 
reef fishing. Useppa Island, Captiva Pass, Boca- 
grande Pass, and Gasparilla Pass especially are 
fishing centers. Sarasota Bay also, Tampa Bay 
and the waters of Boca Ceiga Bay and Clear- 
water Harbor. Tarpon Springs, Homosassa and 
Crystal river are all frequented by fishermen, but 
have not the great variety or abundance of fish 
that are found further south. 

For data in regard to fishing outfits, expenses, 
mode of taking fish, etc., the reader is referred 
to the many books on Florida sports. (See Bibli- 
ography.) 

^^It might be well to mention the manatee, the 
alligator and crocodile which with certain re- 
strictions are hunted and taken in Florida. 
The manatee is a warm blooded amphibian, a 
rare survival of its type, the dugong of East 
Indian Waters being the only other existing 
member of its Order. It is an herbivorous ani- 
mal, feeding on the marine grasses and plants 
that grow in brackish streams and about inlets. 
It has teeth and grinds its food. Its head is 
small with a muzzle like a cow. Its front flippers 
are small and terminate in a hand-shaped form, 
with nails. Its tail is broad and flat and of great 
use in swimming. Its skin is thick and dark 
brown with a few coarse hairs scattered over it. 
There are long whisker-like hairs about the muz- 
zle. The eyes are small. It has no neck, but 
its body is shaped somewhat like a sea-lion. It 
grows to a length of ten and even twelve feet. 
It rises to the surface to breathe every two or 
three minutes. It is docile and intentionally 
harmless, but in a struggle to get away may hurt 



SPORTS 85 

its Captor by a stroke from its powerful tail. 
To capture it a long seine with a mesh like a 
turtle net of 18 inches is stretched across the 
stream where it has been feeding, one end only 
being securely fastened, the other fastening 
breaks as the sea-cow encounters the net, and in 
struggling for freedom it becomes enmeshed and 
can easily be secured. They are protected by 
law, a permit to take one being necessary. It is 
strongly urged not to kill these harmless interest- 
ing creatures. Though their flesh is palatable, 
their presence gives more zest to life, than their 
flesh does to the table. 

\ Alligators live in brackish or fresh water, dig- 
ging burrows, the entrance to which seem impos- 
sibly small in comparison to the size of the deni- 
zen. They lie on the banks of fresh-water 
streams, and their slides near favorite swimming 
places are easily recognized. They grow to an 
extreme length of fifteen to eighteen feet, and 
live to an age of a hundred years. They are 
dark brown and black on the upper side, a muddy 
amber on the lower. Their skin is almost in- 
vulnerable. A shot can only kill by penetrating 
just above the eye, or where the head joins the 
neck, or just close behind the forelegs. They 
have a rounded nose and small eyes. The long 
tail is a swimming factor, a help in getting over 
land, and a formidable weapon of offense and de- 
fense. Their food is fish, turtles, snakes, birds, 
water turkeys, and the young of their own 
species. They also take pine knots and cypress 
knees as part of their fare. They can wait for 
intervals of weeks between feeding times in 
winter. They are inactive when undisturbed, 



86 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

but very wary, and on the first approach of dan- 
ger or warning- of new conditions, they slip 
away into the water, or enter their holes. In 
either case they are ahnost sure to escape. The 
water retreat is not to be followed and their holes 
are usually provided with two entrances. The 
bull alligators are fighters and their cries and 
threshings in a battle are not easily forgotten. 
The swift turn of the head to the side and the 
lightning-like snap of the vicious jaws makes 
defense almost impossible and the stunning, rush- 
ing, falling blows of their lashing tails add to 
the fury of the combat. The females build their 
nests on the banks of fresh water streams, of 
grass, leaves, sticks and muck. In these they lay 
as many as a hundred eggs. The decomposition 
of the nest makes the necessary heat to hatch 
the eggs. These later are pearly white, about as 
large as hen's eggs in the smaller dimensions, but 
slightly longer. The baby " gators " fend for 
themselves. There are tales of the mother 
guarding them during infancy, and even hiding 
them by opening her mouth to a sheltering place 
within her in times of danger, but the verdict as 
to the truth of this is " not proven." 
""^ To hunt the alligator, the locality of his haunt 
is discovered, and the sportsman endeavors to 
come upon him gently. The least noise sends 
the quarry to safety. The shot must be unerring, 
else he is away from all danger for that day. If 
it is the purpose to take him alive, the better 
plan is to attempt to get him in his cave. The 
two entrances must be watched and one must be 
used by the hunters for aggressive measures. 
They should go armed with a long pole to which 



SPORTS 87 

is strongly attached a shark-hook, a gaff, a coil 
of rope, rifles and a spade. The long pole and 
hook is used to drag the game from his hole, the 
gaff to quiet him if necessary, the coil of rope to 
bind him if taken alive, and the rifle to dispatch 
him if occasion demands; the spade is not to dig 
his grave, but to facilitate operation if the hole 
is too deep. What happens on the hunt may be 
of various sorts. The hissing, bellowing, harsh 
protests of the alligators are not the least of the 
exciting incidents. Fire-hunting is done at night, 
when a light is set in the bow of the boat, and the 
game is " shined." The alligator remains quiet 
as the boat approaches, and is not afraid of the 
light. It may be shot then easily, but this is 
skin-hunting, not sport. 
"^ai. The crocodile is to be distinguished from the 
alligator in color and shape and habitat. It is 
not so broad in proportion to its length. Its 
snout is narrower and its head more pointed. 
Its color is lighter and varies from dingy black to 
gray. Its lower canine teeth protrude through 
two holes in the upper jaw when the mouth is 
closed, and are seen above the upper lip. Its 
hind feet are more deeply webbed and larger 
than an alligator's proportionately, and there is a 
ridge of projecting scales along the hind legs 
that is absent in the alligator. The male croco- 
dile is as vicious as the alligator. They are 
enemies, and fight on meeting. The catching of 
the jaw by the victor is a deciding moment in a 
battle, a vicious wrench, a rolling over and over 
of the combatants, the neck of the victim is 
broken and the fight ends. The crocodile lives 
in the lagoons bordering the coast, and in salt 



88 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

water lakes on the Keys. The female makes her 
nest by digging a hole in the sand, where less 
than a hundred eggs are deposited. It is almost 
impossible to kill a crocodile because of the in- 
accessibility of its haunts, but the general 
method in its chase are the same as in alligator 
hunting. 

General State Game Law of Florida 

An Act for the preservation of- wild deer, birds 
and other game, and to prescribe the time in 
which they may be hunted, and to provide that 
all non-residents of the State shall take out a 
license before they shall hunt such wild deer, 
birds or other game, and prescribing a penalty 
for the violation thereof. 

Open season for deer: It shall be unlawful 
for any person to hunt, chase, kill, molest, or 
have in his, her or their possession, any wild deer 
in the State except during the months of Novem- 
ber, December and January of each year. Any 
person violating this section shall be fined for 
each deer killed, or in his, her or their posses- 
sion, not more than one hundred dollars, or less 
than twenty-five dollars, or be imprisoned not 
more than six months or less than three months. 
Venison or deer hides not to be sold : No per- 
son or persons, firm or corporations, shall sell, 
expose for sale, or have in his, her, their or its 
possession for sale at any time any wild deer, 
venison or deer hide, and it shall be unlawful for 
any person or persons, firm or corporations, to 
ship or transport any deer, venison or deer hide 
or hides in this State for sale at any time, and 
it shall be unlawful for any common carrier tO' 



GAME LAW 89 

transport any deer, venison, or deer hide or hides 
at any time to be sold. Any person or persons, 
firm or corporations, violating the provisions of 
this section shall be punished by a fine of not 
less than fifty dollars or more than two hundred 
dollars, or be imprisoned not more than three nor 
less than one month. 

Hunting or trapping turkey or quail : No per- 
son or persons shall have in his, her or their pos- 
session, or shall hunt or kill any wild turkey, 
quail or partridge in any part of this State, save 
only from the first day of November until the 
first day of March of any year. No person shall 
kill more than two wild turkeys, or more than 
twenty quail, and no party of two or more per- 
sons shall kill more than four wild turkeys or 
more than forty quail in any one day, and no 
person shall kill more than five wild turkeys in 
any one year, and no person or persons, firm or 
corporation, association, or company shall sell, 
expose for sale or have in his, her, or their pos- 
session for sale in this State, any wild turkey, 
quail or partridge. Any person, or persons, cor- 
poration, association or company, violating any 
of the provisions of this section shall upon con- 
viction thereof be punished by a fine of not less 
than twenty-five dollars or more than one hun- 
dred dollars, or be imprisoned in the county jail 
not exceeding sixty days, or less than thirty days. 

Unlawful to kill carrier pigeons: It shall be 
unlawful for any person to catch, kill, maim, 
wound, detain or molest any homing pigeon or 
carrier pigeon, or pigeon carrying a metallic 
band, the property of another. Any person vio- 
lating the provisions of this section shall be pun- 



90 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

ished by a fine of not less than five dollars, nor 
more than twenty-five dollars, or by imprison- 
ment not to exceed sixty days, and in addition 
to such fine or imprisonment shall be required to 
pay as costs in the case to go to the prosecuting 
witness the sum of ten dollars. 

Must not ship game out of county: Any per- 
son or persons, firm or corporation, who shall 
ship any deer, deer hide or hides, venison, wild 
turkey, quail or partridge beyond the limits of 
the county in which the same were killed, shall 
upon conviction thereof be deemed guilty of a 
misdemeanor and shall be punished by not less 
than twenty-five dollars or more than one hun- 
dred dollars, or imprisonment not less than three 
months or more than six months. Any common 
carrier, or any agent or employe of any com- 
mon carrier who shall receive for carriage, or 
who shall permit the carriage of any such deer, 
deer hide or hides, venison, wild turkey, quail or 
partridges by any such common carrier across 
any county line in the State, shall be punished in 
the same manner as the shipper: Provided, 
Hunters or hunting parties may take their game 
home with them in this State, but not for sale. 

Non-residents to secure license: All persons 
who are not citizens of this State, before hunt- 
ing for the purpose of killing any wild game in 
this State, shall apply to the clerk of the circuit 
court of the county the said non-citizen purposes 
to hunt in, and upon the payment of ten dollars 
to the said clerk by the applicant, the clerk shall 
issue a permit to hunt in said county, only as 
provided for in this act and the same shall not 
be transferable, and it shall be unlawful for any 



GAME LAW 91 

non-citizen of this State to hunt in this State 
without first obtaining said permit, which permit 
shall expire on the first day of March next fol- 
lowing the date of its issue. That all money col- 
lected as provided for in this section shall be 
paid by the clerk to the county treasurer and shall 
be applied to paying the fees or salary of 
the game warden for said county. Provided; 
That in any county where there is no game 
warden, then all money collected as provided 
for in this section shall be paid by the clerk to 
the county treasurer for the use of the fine and 
forfeiture fund. Any person violating the provi- 
sions of this section shall be deemed guilty of a 
misdemeanor and upon conviction thereof, shall 
be punished by a fine of not more than one 
hundred dollars, or be imprisoned in the county 
jail not exceeding ninety days: Provided, That 
the provisions of this act shall not apply to 
counties having special game laws. 

Dispositions of fines: Any person making af- 
fidavit giving information sufficient to convict 
another for violating any of the provisions of the 
six preceding sections shall be entitled to and 
shall receive one-half of the fine so imposed and 
collected, if informant be the game warden; any 
other shall receive one-third of the fine. 

Shooting ducks out of season: It shall be un- 
lawful for any person or persons to shoot wild 
ducks between the first day of April and the first 
day of October. Any person or persons violat- 
ing the provisions of this section shall be pun- 
ished by fine not exceeding fifty dollars or by 
imprisonment not exceeding thirty days. 

Protection of birds, their eggs and nests: No 



92 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

person shall within the State of Florida kill or 
catch or have in his possession, living or dead, 
any wild bird other than a game bird, nor shall 
purchase, offer or expose for sale any such wild 
bird after it has been killed or caught. No part 
of the plumage, skin or body of any bird pro- 
tected by this section shall be sold or had in pos- 
session for sale. For the purpose of this act, the 
following only shall be considered game birds : 
The Anatidas, commonly known as swans, geese, 
brant, and river and sea ducks ; the Rallidce, com- 
monly known as rails, coots, mud-hens, and gal- 
linules ; the Semicol?e, commonly known as shore 
birds, plovers, surf birds, snipe, woodcock, sand 
pipers, tattler and curlews ; the Gallinae, commonly 
known as wild turkeys, grouse, prairie chickens, 
pheasants, partridges and quails, also turtle 
doves, tame and wild pigeons and robins. No 
person shall within the State of Florida take or 
needlessly destroy the nest or eggs of any wild 
bird, nor shall have such nest or eggs in his or 
her possession. Any person violating the pro- 
visions of this section shall be liable to a fine of 
five dollars for each offense, and an additional 
fine of five dollars for each bird, living or dead, 
or part of bird, or nest and eggs possessed in 
violation of this section, or to imprisonment for 
ten days. 

Who exempt from foregoing section, and man- 
ner of exemption: The foregoing section shall 
not apply to any person holding a certificate giv- 
ing the right to take birds and their nests and 
eggs for scientific purposes as herein provided. 
Certificates may be granted by the Commissioner 
of Agriculture of the State of Florida, or by any 




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GAME LAW 93 

incorporated society of natural history in the 
State, through such persons or officers as the said 
society may designate, to any properly accredited 
person of the age of fifteen years or upwards, per- 
mitting the holder thereof to collect birds, their 
nests and eggs, for strictly scientific purposes 
only. In order to obtain such certificate the ap- 
plicant for the same must present to the person 
having the power to grant such certificates, writ- 
ten testimonials from two well known scientific 
men, certifying to the good character and fitness 
of said applicant to be entrusted with such privi- 
lege; must pay to said person or officer one dol- 
lar to defray necessary expenses attending the 
granting such certificates ; and must file with said 
person or officer a properly executed bond in the 
sum of one hundred dollars, signed by two re- 
sponsible citizens of the State as sureties. The 
said bond shall be forfeited to the State and the 
certificate become void upon proof that the holder 
of such certificate has killed any bird or taken 
the nest or eggs of any bird, for other than the 
purposes named herein, and subject the holder of 
the certificate to same penalties as violators of the 
preceding section. The certificate mentioned 
herein shall be in force for one year only from 
date of issuance, and shall not be transferable. 

Birds not included in preceding sections : The 
English sparrow, shark-shinned hawk (commonly 
known as the little blue darter), cooper's hawk 
(commonly known as the big blue darter), great 
horned owl, crow, ricebird, meadowlark, jackdaw 
and butcherbird are not included among the birds 
protected by the two preceding sections. Noth- 
ing in said sections shall prevent any citizen of 



94 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

the State of Florida from destroying birds which 
are found injuring grapes, fruits, garden or farm 
products on his premises, or from taking and 
keeping in a cage any cardinal redbird or mock- 
ingbird for his own pleasure or amusement : 
Provided that the same shall not be sold or 
shipped out of the State. 

Protection of manatee or sea-cow: Any per- 
son who shall kill or capture in the waters of the 
State of Florida a manatee or sea-cow (Triche- 
chus latirostris), without having obtained the 
permit hereinafter mentioned, shall be fined not 
exceeding five hundred dollars or imprisoned not 
exceeding three months. 

Permit to kill: Whenever the county commis- 
sioners of any county shall be satisfied that the 
interest of science will be subserved, and that 
the application for a permit to kill or capture a 
manatee or sea-cow in that county is for scien- 
tific purposes and should be granted, they may 
grant to such person making the application a 
special permit to kill or capture a manatee or sea- 
cow, which permit shall only extend to the cap- 
turing or killing of one of such animals. 

Default of fish or game warden : Any fish and 
game warden who shall fail to take cognizance of 
the violation of any of the fish and game laws of 
this State when same is brought to their notice, 
shall be punished by a fine not exceeding fifty 
dollars or imprisonment not exceeding sixty days. 

Local Game Laws: In a great many counties 
there are special laws which rule instead of the 
Gfeneral State Law. These are often quite volu- 
minous, but local guides can give the needed 
information to sportsmen as to their restrictions 



GAME LAW 95 

in each section. Should more definite informa- 
tion seem necessary an application to the Secre- 
tary of State will bring copies of any desired law. 
The fishing laws have relation to commercial 
fishing, and can be obtained from the State au- 
thorities. There has been a large section of the 
East Coast set aside as a fish and game preserve. 
There are at present no fish commission stations, 
but Congress has authorized a fishery laboratory 
which will be located at some point on the Gulf 
Coast. For information in regards to fish and 
fishing, application should be made to Mr. John 
Y. Detwiler, Honorary Fish Commissioner, New 
Smyrna, Florida. 



ROUTES THROUGH FLORIDA 



JACKSONVILLE 

Jacksonville (Pop. 57,699), the county seat of 
Duval Co., is the metropolis of Florida, its chief 
commercial city, and its railway center. It is 
the most important port upon the South Atlantic 
Coast. It is also the Atlantic port farthest west, 
being in about the longitude of Cleveland, Ohio. 

Arrival. The station is at the west end of the 
business section of the town. Street cars will be 
found waiting in which one may go to most of 
the hotels. There are also excellent open cabs 
at a charge of 25c per person ; after midnight 50c. 
When distance exceeds two miles 50c ; after mid- 
night 75c. Children under five years of age ac- 
companied by adult, free; over five and under 
twelve, half fare. Cabs by the hour, day rate $1 ; 
after midnight, $1.50. 

Jacksonville is located upon the north bank of 
the St. John's river, twenty-five miles from its 
mouth. It was called by the Indians Wacca 
Pilatka — "the cows' crossing over" — and in 
early accounts of the vicinity it is commonly 
called merely The Cowford. There was, how- 
ever, no white settlement here until 1816. At 
that time a certain Lewis Z. Hogan, w^ho had 
settled upon the south side of the river, married 
a Spanish widow, Dona Maria Suarez, who had a 
grant of 200 acres upon the present site of the city. 
Thither the new family removed. The new set- 
tlement was well situated to take advantage of 
the tide of immigration and trade which was then 

99 



100 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

beginning- to tlow south into the State. In 1820 a 
ferry was established. In 1822 an inn was opened 
by one John Brady. In 1833 the town was in- 
corporated and named Jacksonville after General 
Jackson, who was not only a national hero, but 
one who had been closely connected with Florida 
history at the time of the cession from Spain. 

During the Seminole \\'ar it was often a place 
of refuge for fugitives from other parts of the 
State. 

During the Civil War Jacksonville was four 
separate times captured by the Federal troops. 
On March 11, 1862, the United States gunboats 
*' Ottawa," " Seneca," and " Pembina " crossed 
the bar of the St. John's and with some lighter 
draft vessels captured the city peacefully the 
next day. In April the force was withdrawn. 

The following autumn, in October, it was again 
seized and again abandoned. 

In March, 1863, it was again captured, this time 
by colored troops, the ist South Carolina Volun- 
teers under the command of Colonel Thomas 
Wentworth Higginson, and part of the 2nd 
South Carolina Volunteers, under Colonel Mont- 
gomery. The presence of the black troops gave 
considerable offense to the population of Jack- 
sonville and must have led to ill feeling, for, w^hen 
the tow'n was within a month again abandoned, 
there was much burning and looting, which even 
in the North was much criticized. It was, how- 
ever, again taken by colored troops February 7, 
1864, and held till the end of the war. 

Since that time its history may be said-to be 
that of its growth and commercial development. 

In May, 1901., there was a great fire, which de- 



JACKSONVILLE loi 

stroycd some 2,600 buildings with a loss of over 
$15,000,000. This calamity, as so often proves 
with fires in ill-built cities, was really a blessing. 
In the ten years that have since elapsed the city 
has been rebuilt, some 8,000 buildings valued at 
$25,000,000 replacing those destroyed. The town 
is now a clean, cheerful, pleasant place, with well- 
paved streets planted with trees, open parks and 
squares, electric lights, excellent shops, good 
street car service (all cars start from Bay and 
Main Streets), and modern hotels. The water 
supply is from artesian wells, and is abundant 
and good. 

Bay Street contains the best shops and most 
of the railway and steamer offices. 

The City Hall, the Duval County Court House, 
and the TY^deral Building, all in Forsyth Street, a 
little to the north of Bay Street, are the chief 
public buildings worthy of notice. 

Hemming Park is in the center of the city, 
bounded by Hogan, Monroe, Laura and Duval 
►Streets. It is a spacious, well-kept square, with 
better turf than is ordinarily found in Florida. 
The arriving visitor from the north will very 
pr(jbably stroll into it his first day or evening and 
receive a pleasant impression of Jacksonville as 
a sub-tropic city. The park is planted with char- 
acteristic specimens of Florida flora. In the 
center there is the confederate monument erected 
by the city. 

Other parks, all of which may be reached by 
street car and which afford pleasant excursions, 
are Riverside Park, with a pine grove (Riverside 
Park Line), Plioenix Park (Phoenix Park Line), 
Ortega Park (Ortega Line), Springfield Park 



102 . A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

(Phoenix Park, Fourth and Pearl or First and 
Walnut Street Line), Waterworks and Dignan 
Parks. 

The residential part of Jacksonville is attrac- 
tive and worth a walk or drive. Riverside, es- 
pecially, stretching along the St. John's above 
the city, with its pretty houses standing in well- 
kept, well-shaded gardens, should be seen. 

Talleyrand Avenue, in what was formerly 
called East Jacksonville, is named for a Marquis 
de Talleyrand who settled in Jacksonville a few 
years before the Civil War. He had married a 
Miss Winslow of Boston, and for a few years 
lived lavishly in what is still known as the Tal- 
leyrand Place. But he became involved in finan- 
cial difficulties and gave up his Florida residence. 

A favorite excursion (Fairfield Line of street 
cars) is to the Florida Ostrich Farm. The rais- 
ing of these birds has never become a regular 
industry of the State as it was once hoped it 
would, but the ostrich farm shows it as a prac- 
tical possibility, and offers the visitor an op- 
portunity to see the ostrich at every stage of its 
existence. The farm also contains a zoological 
collection. 

A good excursion by automobile is over the 
Atlantic Boulevard Drive, completed in 1910 at a 
cost of $20,000. This is a hard roadway of shell, 
brick and asphalt, eighteen miles in length, which 
runs from Jacksonville to the Atlantic Ocean. 

For many visitors the most interesting thing 
about Jacksonville will be the general evidences 
of its growth and commercial prosperity. Its en- 
thusiastic inhabitants believe it to be destined to 
be the South's chief commercial city. And with- 



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JACKSONVILLE 103 

out venturing an opinion upon such a question it 
may be said that Jacksonville's energy, civic feel- 
ing and rapid growth are unquestioned. Its 
population has increased from 28,000 in 1901, to 
nearly 60,000 in 191 1. It seems probable that it 
will remain the " gateway " of Florida and the 
natural outlet for the produce of the greater part 
of the State. And if the growth of its manufac- 
tures makes anything like the progress of which it 
now gives promise, the hopes of its most hopeful 
inhabitants may be realized. It is certain that 
few if any States east of the Mississippi have as 
great undeveloped resources as Florida, of which 
Jacksonville is the commercial capital. 

Jacksonville is a deep water port, the St. John's 
river, from the city to the jetties at its mouth, 
having at low tide a depth of twenty-four, which 
dredging operations now in progress are expected 
to make thirty feet. It has three coastwise lines 
of steamers. The Clyde Line sends five ships a 
week to New York and Boston, the Southern 
Steamship Company two a week to Philadelphia, 
and the Merchants & Miners Transportation 
Company three a week to Baltimore. The Burg 
Line and the Cans Line have steamers to Bre- 
men, Amsterdam and other European ports; the 
Logan Line to Liverpool. There are two lines 
to West Indian and Central American ports, and 
it is hoped, even promised, that soon the lines to 
the south will be more numerous and better 
equipped. 



JACKSONVILLE TO FERNANDINA 

(Via Seaboard Air Line R. R. — 36 m. i^ hr.) 

Leaving Jacksonville the train runs north to 
Panama Park (7 m.), crosses Trout Creek and a 
smaller stream and arrives at Broward (12 m.) ; 
Duval (14 m.) is the next stop. Near Hedges 
(20 m.) the Nassau river is crossed. Yulee (24 
m., hotel, see list) is a junction with the line to 
Baldwin (35 m.) with connections to Lofton (30 
m.). The Amelia river is crossed and the rest 
of the way is over Amelia Island to Fernandina. 
Fernandina (36 m. pop. 3,482), a seaport town 
of some importance. Fernandina harbor is the 
finest on the Atlantic coast south of Chesapeake 
Bay. It was not, however, the site of a town of 
any importance until 1808. Later, on account of 
the Embargo Act of Jefferson's administration, it 
suddenly assumed considerable importance as a 
neutral port and it is said that as many as a 
hundred and fifty vessels lay there at one time 
during the war of 1812. It lost its commercial 
importance afterwards, and has never completely 
regained it. It is attractively situated near the 
north end and on the west side of the island, Fort 
Clinch and Fernandina Lighthouse being to the 
north. The exports are chiefly naval stores, lum- 
ber and phosphates. Vessels load here, not only 
for the coast, but for foreign ports as well. 
Amelia Beach on the east side of the island is 
reached by a good road (2 m.). The climate is 

104 



JACKSONVILLE TO MACON, GA. 105 

pleasant and bracing and many winter visitors 
are attracted here. A pleasant excursion is to go 
by boat to the channels that encircle the Sea- 
Islands to the north. Cumberland Island, the 
nearest of these, is remarkable for its beauty. It 
was the site of " Dungeness," the old home of Col. 
Nathaniel Greene of the Continental army, pre- 
sented to him by the State of Georgia. The 
property is now owned by Mrs. T. M. Carnegie. 
'' Light-Horse Harry " Lee's grave is in the de- 
mesne. The islands are all very fertile, and a 
high-grade of " long staple sea-island " cot- 
ton is grown upon them. Many of the islands 
have been bought by private individuals, who 
have built beautiful winter homes upon them. 

Jacksonville to Macon, Ga. 

(Via Ga. So. & Fla. R. R., via Valdosta, Ga.— 261 m.). 

Leaving Jacksonville in a northwesterly direc- 
tion, the first of the route is in Florida, passing 
through Hoyt (5 m.). King's Grove (8 m.), and 
Plummer (11 m.). The railway turns directly 
west at Crawford (18 m.), passes Kent (23 m.) 
and crosses the St. Mary's river into Georgia. 
At Momac, Ga. (38 m.) it crosses the river again 
into Florida to Baxter (39 m.). Eddy (46 m.) is 
passed and the State line again crossed and then 
on to Valdosta, Ga. (no m.), and to Macon, Ga. 
(261 m.). 



JACKSONVILLE TO MAYPORT 

(Via F. E. C. R. R.— 26 m., i hr.) 

The train crosses the river to South Jackson- 
ville (i m.), where the main line of the Florida 
East Coast R. R. is left, and, turning to the east, 
St. Nicholas (3 m.) is reached. The suburban re- 
gion is passed, and Spring Glen (5 m.), Hogan 
(6 m.), Center Park (11 m.) and San Pablo (15 
m.). San Pablo Beach (17 m.) is on the ocean 
and has a fine beach. It is a favorite resort fre- 
quented by the residents of the State during the 
Summer. The railway here turns to the north 
and follows the shore to Atlantic Beach (20 m.), 
a shore resort much visited in the spring by tour- 
ists returning North. It has an excellent beach. 
Its hotel was built by the F. E. C. R. R., and is 
now under leased management. Its standard of 
excellence is good, and the fact that it is open 
in the late spring and summer recommends it to 
tourists who wish to make a late return to the 
North. Manhattan Beach (23 m.) and Burnside 
Beach (24 m.) are the next stations. 

- Mayport (26 m.) is at the mouth of the St. 
John's river, and is an old settlement with plain 
accommodations for tourists. The St. John's 
Lighthouse adjoins the town. The name May- 
port is a reminder that the French called the St. 
John's " Riviere de Mai " — May river. It was 
near Mayport that the ill-fated French Huguenot 
settlement of Florida was made — a settlement 
antedating that of St. Augustine. 

106 



JACKSONVILLE TO MAYPORT 107 

Pilot-town Is an interesting village situated 
west of Mayport on the river bank. It is a 
settlement of sea-farers. Pilots for the ships 
making port at Jacksonville start from here. 
Near Pilot-town was the Spanish fort taken by 
Des Gourges on his romantic and thrilling ex- 
pedition of revenge. 

The run of shad into the St. John's begins in 
January and lasts until April. It is the tradition 
of the local fishermen that the fish never go out 
again ! 

The excursion to Fort George Island is inter- 
esting. The old oak woods are picturesque. In 
the sedgy channels round here is still some duck 
shooting, and there are quail upon the island. 
There was at one time upon the island an ideal 
Southern plantation of the old school, with a fine 
mansion surrounded by negro quarters. 

The drive from Pablo Beach to Mayport is a 
very pleasant one along the beach. Sea-bathing 
at these resorts is comfortable in late March. 
The trade-winds are balmy and the water is not 
cold. The F. E. C. R. R. has large docks and 
wharves for handling coal and lumber at May- 
port. 



JACKSONVILLE TO KEY WEST 

(Via F. E. C. R. R.— 522 m.) 

I — Jacksonville to St. Augustine (37 m., i hr.)- 

The St. John's is crossed by a long bridge, 
from which a good view of this really noble 
river is obtained, and of the city of Jacksonville. 

South Jacksonville (2 m.) is also connected 
with Jacksonville by ferry. It has several manu- 
facturing plants, ship-repair and boat-building 
yards. Also a certain suburban population go- 
ing to business on the north shore of the river. 

Bayard (15 m.) A small village in the pine 
woods which, with perhaps not too much care 
for the reputation of other towns in the State, 
boasts that it has fewer mosquitoes and insects 
than any other location in Florida. Its atmos- 
phere is drier than that of the coast and river 
towns and is said to be beneficial to convales- 
cents from throat or lung affections. 

The country is not especially interesting, as 
one is quickly carried through it by the train. 
Yet it is characteristically Floridian, stretches of 
pine barrens varied occasionally by the rich 
tangle of palmettoes and deciduous trees which 
mark hammock and swamp land. The traveler 
on the railways of the State will go through hun- 
dreds and hundreds of miles of such country. 
And the complaint is constantly made that it is 
actually ugly. That it is monotonous one must 
admit, desolate too and even a little sad at times. 
But there are connoisseurs of landscape, who, 

108 



JACKSONVILLE TO ST. AUGUSTINE 109 

especially when they can go into the back coun- 
try without the confinement of a railway car, find 
a beauty in the pine tops against the blue sky and 
in the varied green of the hammocks. The lone- 
liness, the extraordinary feeling of remoteness is 
to them a merit of the country. Some travelers 
who begin by actually disliking these Florida flat- 
lands end by finding in them a curious and char- 
acteristic charm. In any case to them the clear- 
ing of a pretty town must seem like an oasis — 
in the pines. 

As St. Augustine is approached, a view of the 
city is to be had at the left, beyond salt marshes. 

St. Augustine, (37 m., pop., 5,494). Railway 
porters meet trains to carry hand baggage. Hotel 
omnibuses and cabs (25c per person ; baggage, 
25c per person) are in waiting. Agent of St. 
Augustine Transfer Co. usually goes through 
train before arrival to arrange for transportation 
of passengers and their baggage. 
— St. Augustine, the oldest city in the territory 
of the United States, is one of the most attrac- 
tive and interesting. It is ui^questionably the 
one great "sight" of Florida; no visit to the 
State could possibly be thought complete or satis- 
factory which did not include it. It is also, con- 
sidered merely as a pleasant place of resort or 
winter residence, one of the best which Florida 
can oflfer. 

The history of St. Augustine was for centuries 
the history of Florida, at least of East Florida, 
in the days when they spoke of The Floridas, and 
Pensacola was the capital of the province of West 
Florida. Much of the story of St. Augustine has 
necessarily already been given in the preliminary 



no A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

chapter of this book upon the history of the State. 
Only a part of it will be here recapitulated, es- 
pecially such part as lends interest to still exist- 
ent antiquities. 

The settlement of St. Augustine was made by 
the expedition which went forth from Spain un- 
der Pedro Menendez de Aviles to drive out the 
colony of French Huguenots which had already 
been established near the mouth of the St. John's. 
Menendez agreed with Philip II. of Spain to carry 
out a force of 600 men, also horses, cattle, hogs, 
sheep and goats, and, if he wished, slaves. He 
was also to take twelve priests, including four 
Jesuits. He was not only to expel the French, 
but also to make settlements in the country. He 
was to be Adelantado — Governor — of the coun- 
try and to receive the title of marquis, a salary, 
and certain valuable privileges. 

On the 7th day of September, 1565, Menendez's 
fleet cast anchor in what had already been named 
the River of Dolphins, the present harbor of the 
town. An Indian village, Selooe, stood upon the 
site of the present St. Augustine. Menendez dis- 
embarked with religious ceremony and military 
pomp, and took possession of the country. 
Earthwork defenses were hurriedly thrown up, 
and the settlement named in honor of the saint 
upon whose feast day they had sighted the low- 
lying Floridian coast. 

The first business, however, was the destruc- 
tion of the French. The tragic story of the ac- 
complishment of this has already been told in 
the introductory historical chapter. The French 
Fort Caroline was captured. The fleet of Ribaut 
which had come to the rescue of the little settle- 



ST. AUGUSTINE in 

ment put to sea and was wrecked upon the coast 
somewhere near what is now Daytona. The 
miserable survivors made their way to the inlet 
by St. Augustine which they were unable to 
cross. Here they surrendered themselves upon 
definite promises of clemency and safety. They 
were fetched across in small groups, bound by 
the Spaniards, and upon their admitting that they 
were of the " new religion " were butchered with- 
out hesitation, over two hundred of them. The 
several wandering bands of Huguenots were all 
discovered and massacred. 

Sinister though such beginnings were, St. Au- 
gustine maintained its existence, no easy task. 
Provisions ran low, the Indians were unfriendly. 
Disease appeared, and disaffection reduced the 
numbers. Menendez's energy and courage were 
wonderful. In spite of difficulties he sought aid 
in Cuba, explored the coast, planting forts and 
lecturing the Indians on Catholic theology. 
Finally after Menendez had in Cuba, to obtain 
provisions, pawned his jewels and the cross of 
his order, succor and a fleet arrived from Spain. 
Menendez, thinking he might leave the colony 
for a while, returned to Spain. After the famous 
expedition of Des Gourges, who in revenge for 
the destruction of the French colony now de- 
scended upon the Spanish at San Mateo on the 
St. John's, Menendez returned again. The 
chronicle of St. Augustine during these years is 
that of all the early American settlements. Me- 
nendez died, during a trip to Spain in 1574. 

The next event of great interest was the cap- 
ture of the town by Sir Francis Drake, the great 
freebooter. The town was at once re-occupied 



112 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

and re-built after this. The missionary activities 
of the Franciscans increased and a number of In- 
dian churches were started near the settlement. 
But conversion was followed closely by retro- 
gression and there were many massacres of 
priests. There is a moving story of one who ob- 
tained permission to say the mass before he died 
and was as he finished struck down at the very 
altar. 

In the year 1638 St. Augustine and the colony 
waged war successfully against the Apalachian 
Indians near the Suwanee river country. It 
was with captives taken in this war that work 
on the fort was carried on. In 1648, al- 
most a century after its foundation, St. Augus- 
tine is said to have had three hundred house- 
holders, besides a monastery of fifty Franciscans, 
and the garrison. In 1665 St. Augustine was 
again captured and sacked by an English free- 
booter, Captain Davis. The fort, however, safely 
protected the inhabitants and the garrison, 
though it offered no resistance to the English. 
About 1700 the first sea wall was being con- 
structed ; remains of this still exist in Bay Street. 

During the early part of the eighteenth cen- 
tury the Spanish colony came into conflict with 
the English settlements along the coast. In 1702 
Governor Moore of South Carolina made a suc- 
cessful descent upon the town and carried away 
much booty. In 1740 a considerable expedition 
under Governor Oglethorpe of Georgia invaded 
Florida and laid siege to St. Augustine for twenty 
days. But the fort was now strong and well de- 
fended. The invaders ultimately retired. 

St. Augustine had by this time grown to over 




3 

3 
< 



c75 




4-1 

O 

X 



ST. AUGUSTINE 113 

two thousand inhabitants. The fort was com- 
pleted, in almost its present form, under Don 
Alonzo Fernandez de Herrera, 1755. For over 
sixty years Apalachian captives had been work- 
ing on it. It was at that time called St. John's 
fort ; when it came to be called San Marco seems 
uncertain. 

In 1763 Florida was ceded to the English. St. 
Augustine became the seat of great governmental 
activity, for under the English rule roads were 
built, agriculture was encouraged and for the 
first time in centuries the colony became self- 
supporting, even profitable. There are many ac- 
curate accounts of the city during this time. 
There was an interesting and cultivated society 
resident there. 

The population was considerably increased by 
the Minorcans, Greeks and Italians who escaped 
from Dr. Turnbull at New Smyrna. They had 
been brought there under indentures to do agri- 
cultural labor for an English company, but had 
been ill-treated until they revolted. The Span- 
ish names of St. Augustine, many of which the 
tourist will see upon the pews in the cathedral, 
are mostly of Minorcan families. 

Florida was loyal to the British crown at the 
time of the War of Independence. In fact upon 
the receipt of the news of the Declaration of Inde- 
pendence the inhabitants of St. Augustine burned 
John Hancock and Samuel Adams in efiigy upon 
the public square. Throughout the war St. 
Augustine was a British base of operations 
against the Americans. Several famous Caro- 
linians, prisoners of war, were at St. Augustine, 
in the fort, in 1780. 



114 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

In 1784 St. Augustine again became Spanish. 
The English residents departed, and for thirty- 
seven more years, comparatively peaceful ones, 
the town was left to its quiet and pleasant ex- 
istence. It lay picturesquely embowered in or- 
ange groves. Its inhabitants though poor were 
generally light-hearted. They loved music and 
dances, they celebrated the carnival each year 
with masking and frolics. It is perhaps the pe- 
riod of the town^s history which its present ap- 
pearance most strongly recalls. 

In 1821 it became American, though for a long 
time it must have remained more strongly Span- 
ish in character. (Writing even as late as 1858, 
Fairbanks, the best known of Florida's histor- 
ians, says that most of the citizens speak Eng- 
lish and Spanish with equal facility.) At first 
the legislative council of the territory of Florida 
held its meetings here, and the first Governor, 
W. P. Duval, lived here, before he moved to his 
log cabin in Tallahassee, all the new capital af- 
forded at first as a gubernatorial mansion. Read- 
ers who will turn to the Ralph Ringwood 
sketches of Washington Irving will find an inter- 
esting account of this famous and original man. 
-~^St. Augustine must have been a picturesque 
town in these days. The carnival was celebrated 
as late as 1848 with some curious local ceremo- 
nies. " Shooting the Jews " — in effigy — was 
one of them. Another odd performance was by 
maskers who were dressed as St. Peter and went 
through the streets endeavoring to throw a net 
over the heads of anyone who dared approach too 
close. " Posey Dances " were another local 
gayety. 



ST. AUGUSTINE 115 

"■^ The outbreak of the Seminole War in 1835 
made St. Augustine for some years an impor- 
tant military post. Though it was unsafe to 
venture without the gates, and massacres by the 
Indians took place near the town, there was a 
period of great activity and seeming prosperity 
while the military remained. During the war the 
famous Seminole chief Osceola was confined in 
the fort. 

The history of the city during the Civil War is 
an uneventful one. It was taken by the North- 
ern forces in March, 1862, and held by them till 
the close of the war. 

Its later history may be said to commence with 
the arrival of Mr. Flagler and the Florida East 
Coast Railway, when the ancient city, which had 
been sleeping so long and so peacefully in the 
sun, was suddenly transformed into one of the 
leading winter resorts and show places of the 
country. Never, it may safely be said, was 
more care taken to preserve the character and 
charm of an old town when the time came to give 
to it all the improvements of modern life. There 
will, of course, be some who will always regret 
the passing of the drowsy, foreign, far-away town 
they once knew, but they must admit that St. 
Augustine still has a charm and beauty and in- 
dividuality which make it stand quite alone 
among American cities. 

The railway station lies to the west of the town 
near the San Sebastian river, between which and 
the Matanzas the city lies. The center of the 
town is the Plaza, which opens at one side upon 
the river. It is pleasantly planted and with its 
surrounding buildings, some in the Spanish style, 



Ii6 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

and its glimpses of narrow streets with overhang- 
ing balconies it gives one at once something of 
the town's romantic quality. At one end, next 
the river, stands a plain but picturesque white 
structure, a simple gable roof supported on pil- 
lars, which is popularly called the Old Spanish 
Slave Market. It is as a matter of fact neither 
old, Spanish, nor a slave market. It was built in 
1840, for the ordinary purposes of a market, 
burned in the fire of 1887 and restored. It is 
now a pleasant resting place with a flowing well 
of sulphur water for the passer-by's refreshment. 
The pyramidal monument of coquina covered 
with weather-beaten stucco in the center gives 
the Plaza its name, Plaza de la Constitucion. It 
was erected by the Spanish in 1813 in honor of 
the Constitution granted by the Spanish Cortes 
during the War of Independence. The inscrip- 
tion in Spanish is translated into English, 

Place of the Constitution 

Promulgated in this city of St. Augustine of East Florida 
the 17th of October, 1812, the Governor being Don Sebas- 
tien Kindalem, Knight of the Order of Saint James, 

For Eternal Remembrance 

The Constitutional Council erected this obelisk under the 
superintendence of Don Fernando de la Maza Arredonto, 
young municipal officer, dean of the corporation and Don 
Francesco Robira, Attorney and Syndic. 

In 1814 Ferdinand VII. having regained the 
throne promptly annulled the constitution and 
ordered all monuments raised in its honor de- 
stroyed. Here in this remote provincial capital 
they contented themselves with removing the in- 



ST. AUGUSTINE 117 

scription which, however, was restored without 
opposition in 1818. 

The Plaza under British rule was called the 
Parade and until 1865 the dress parade of the 
United States garrison took place here. 

To the west of the Plaza is the Post Office. To 
the north the Cathedral is the most notable build- 
ing. The present edifice erected from designs 
by Carrere and Hastings, replaces the older 
church destroyed by the fire of 1887. The orig- 
inal design of fagade was retained, and the ef- 
fect of the Cathedral is in the main that of the 
old one. The earlier building was begun some- 
time during the first half of the eighteenth cen- 
tur}^ and completed in 1793. It is dedicated to 
St. Joseph. One of the bells of the first church, 
itself from a still earlier edifice, bears the in- 
scription " Sancte — Joseph — Ora — Pro — No- 
bis — D — 1682," and is probably the oldest bell 
in America. Before the fire of 1887 there was a 
lamp before one of the altars which, local tradi- 
tion said, had not been extinguished for over 
a century — a reminder that before we realize it 
America is becoming an old country. 

Along the river-front from Fort Marion at the 
north to the barracks at the south extends the 
sea wall, of coquina topped with granite. It af- 
fords a pleasant promenade, with a view of the 
Matanzas, of Anastasia island across, with its 
striped black and white " barber pole " light- 
house. In the days before St. Augustine's mod- 
ern improvements and magnificent hotels, when 
it was a sleepy little town visited by few tourists, 
the sea wall was a famous sight. It was built 
by the United States Government in 1835-42, 



ii8 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

durino^ the busy times of the Seminole War, at an 
expense of about $100,000. There had been a 
protectinjT^ wall as early as 1700. 

North from the Plaza leads the main street of 
the town, St. George, to the City Gates. On the 
right Treasury Street is passed, the narrowest of 
St. Augustine's streets, and one of its most pic- 
turesque. All this quarter of the town is still 
full of bits that give it an odd and romantic char- 
acter. It is true that the overhanging balconies 
are disappearing and the whitewashed houses 
with only a few small windows on the street, the 
reminders of old Spain, are gradually being blot- 
ted out. But for the sentimental idler the town 
still has an atmosphere and a charm, persistent 
and haunting. 

The City Gates at the North End of St. George 
Street are all that is left of the wall that encircled 
the town. St. Augustine, lying between the San 
Sebastian and the Matanzas rivers, was easily 
fortified against slight dangers. In case of siege 
the inhabitants had a refuge in the then almost 
impregnable Castle of San Marco. The Gates 
are all that remains of the wall which guarded 
the land approach, a drawbridge across a moat 
leading to the entrance of the town. They are a 
modest but well-proportioned gray structure of 
coquina, not intrinsically, perhaps, a notable 
*' sight," as " sights " abroad might be reckoned, 
but in our country, where gray city gates are 
rare, a worthy and pleasant goal for any pilgrim- 
age. Their date is uncertain, though they are 
probably of the period when the fort was com- 
pleted, the middle of the eighteenth centur}^ 

Fort Marion, formerly called San Marco, is the 



ST. AUGUSTINE ii9 

most important antiquity of St. Augustine ; it^ is 
the most perfectly preserved example of the mili- 
tary architecture of its time which exists in this 
country. It stands at the north end of the town 
in a pleasant park, utilized as a golf course. It 
is no longer occupied in a military sense, but it 
is the property of the United States Government, 
and is open free of charge from 8 to 4 every 

^^y- 11 r 

The first fort of St. Augustme was naturally of 
logs, and was called St. John of the Pines. Later 
the name of St. Mark was given to the town's de- 
fense, and then that of that revolutionary hero. 
General Francis Marion, shortly after Florida be- 
came American. The fort was for centuries be- 
ing changed and strengthened. The present 
structure, which is planned upon the military 
system of Vaubun, was a long time in being built. 
All through the second half of the seventeenth 
century Apalachian Indian captives toiled upon 
its walls. It was not till 1765 that it was con- 
sidered finished. 

The material is the curious coquina rock which 
is quarried on Anastasia Island, opposite the 
town, and is found at various places along the 
Florida coast. It is an agglomeration of shells 
and shell fragments which, comparatively soft 
when quarried, harden with age and exposure to 
the air. It is a characteristic and interestmg 
building material. 

The fort is surrounded by a moat — now dry, 
and a glacis or earth wall beyond this. It is en- 
tered by a barbican or fortified gate at the south. 
A drawbridge originally led part way across^ the 
moat to the barbican and a second drawbridge 



120 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

to the entrance of the fort. Over this entrance is 
the arms of Spain and an inscription recording 
the completion of the fort in the reign of Ferdi- 
nand VI, when Field Marshal Don Alonzo Fer- 
nando Hereda was Governor and Captain-General 
of East Florida and Don Pedro de Brozas y 
Garay was Chief Engineer directing the works. 

The fort is a square with bastions at the four 
corners (originally called after four of the 
apostles) and an open court in the middle; around 
this are rooms, and from it a staircase mounts 
to the upper works. Around the court are a 
series of rooms designed for the ordinary uses 
of a garrison. In the north wall is the chapel. 
In the northeast bastion is an inner dark room, 
designed as a powder magazine. Later, when it 
had become damp it was disused, and finally 
walled up. When the Americans took posses- 
sion of the fort they knew nothing of the exist- 
ence of this inner chamber until 1839 when the 
caving in of some masonry led to its discovery 
The old powder magazine is commonly called 
the dungeon. Possibly it would be rendering a 
poor service to visitors to attempt to disprove 
any of the gruesome legends of starved and tor- 
tured prisoners which the popular imagination 
has since provided for this *' dungeon.*' Such 
tales will be heard as one goes about the fort, 
and indeed within its grim gray walls they begin 
to sound plausible. 

" Coacoochee's cell " is pointed out near the 
southwest bastion, as the one in which the fa- 
mous Seminole chief was kept a prisoner and 
from which he with a companion escaped by 
squeezing through the embrasure and dropping' 



ST. AUGUSTINE 121 

into the moat. The more famous Osceola was 
also a prisoner here. 

A stone staircase leads up to the terrace or 
terrepleine of the ramparts, where artillery was 
formerly mounted. The view from here of town 
and river is beautiful, and no pleasanter place 
could be found to lounge away a half hour and 
let the imagination play over the centuries' his- 
tory of this little Spanish provincial capital. At 
the corners are picturesque sentry boxes. 

The moat is forty feet wide. Beyond it on the 
river front is a stone water-battery built by the 
United States in 1842. A small brick building 
in the moat was a hot shot furnace and was 
built in 1844. 

At the south end of the sea wall are the St. 
Francis Barracks. They stand upon the site 
and contain some bits of wall of the old Alonas- 
tery of St. Francis which formerly stood here, 
in the days when St. Augustine was the center 
of Florida's religious life and missionary activity. 
The garrison has now been withdrawn, and the 
dress parade is no longer the pleasant feature 
in St. Augustine's daily life that it once was. 
The barracks are now devoted to the uses of the 
local military organizations. 

To the south of the barracks is the Military 
Cemetery where are buried many who lost their 
lives in the Seminole War. Three low pyramids 
of stone mark their grave. There is a shaft to 
those who died under Major Dade's command, 
when they fell into an ambuscade of Indians in 
a pine barren near the Great Wahoo Swamp, and 
were, all but three, shot dov/n, August 28th, 1835. 

Charlotte Street, St. Francis Street, and the 



122 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

side streets ninnino- east and west should all 
be visited to complete the view of the city. The 
Vedder Museum on Bay Street at the corner of 
Treasury is worth seeing. Old St. Augustine, 
as it still exists, will be seen in its full attrac- 
tiveness by the tourist who has leisure time and 
an eye for the historic and picturesque. A few 
hours spent in browsing among the old books 
on the town and its history would more than re- 
pay the sympathetic visitor to the "ancient 

city." 

New St. Augustine is a gorgeous and worthy 
successor of the quaint old town. In the very 
center of the historic ground of centuries now 
rise beautiful Spanish buildings, richer and love- 
lier than could have been imagined by any in- 
habitant of those earlier days. Yet the new 
buildings have something of the same suggestion 
for the imai^ination as the simple old structures 
which once^formed the town. St. Augustine, as 
it grew modern and sumptuous, preserved almost 
more than anv place one can think of, its indi- 
vidual note and its special exotic charm for the 
northerner. 

The Hotel Ponce de Leon, since its opening, 
has been described in the periodical press and in 
the advertising folder and booklet almost ad 
miuscam. Yet,^ although it is perhaps no longer 
what it was once, the latest wonder of the world, 
it still remains a remarkable and famous hotel. 
Architecturallv it is still one of the most inter- 
esting and successful experiments of American 
architecture. Other hotels in Florida are com- 
fortable, luxurious, or even splendid caravan- 
series • St. Augustine hotels alone definitely de- 



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ST. AUGUSTINE 123 

serve to be classed among " sights " which might 
well, wholly on their own account, attract the 
intelligent tourist to the town which contains 
them. 

The Ponce de Leon, designed by Carrere and 
Hastings of New York, is an elaborate example 
of what may roughly be described as Spanish 
Renaissance architecture. Flattened domes, 
towers, broadly projecting eaves under red-tiled 
roofs, courtyards surrounded by broad colon- 
nades, and filled with luxuriant tropical plants, 
rich heraldic and symbolic decorations every- 
where, compose a somewhat fantastic but ex- 
tremely picturesque and lovely whole. The de- 
tail of carving, design of fountains, everything 
of the hotel's exterior may be said to demand 
notice and to compel appreciation. 

The interior is elaborate and sumptuous. It 
is, however, perhaps less original and successful 
from the point of view of design than the exte- 
rior. 

Opposite the Ponce de Leon is the Hotel Al- 
cazar, also in the Spanish style. Crossing a 
little green square and going through a passage- 
way between twin towers one enters the fore- 
court or patio of the hotel. In the arcades 
around it are shops and offices. In the center 
is a fountain flowing into a pool. A rustic 
bridge crosses this and palms and flowers sur- 
round it. In the evening especially the Alcazar 
Court is a delightful and favorite promenade. 

One wing of the Alcazar is what used to be 
the Hotel Cordova, a construction of somewhat 
sterner style of architecture which contains di- 
rect adaptations of various buildings in old 



124 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Spain, of the Puerta del Sol in Toledo and of 
some Sevillian houses. 

The Presbyterian Memorial Church, on Va- 
lencia Street, is the gift of Mr. H. M. Flagler. 
It was designed, in the Spanish style, by Messrs. 
Carrere and Hastings, and adds not a little to 
the new Hispanic picturesqueness of St. Augus- 
tine. 

All the newer buildings of St. Augustine are 
built of coquina concrete, compounded of ce- 
ment and the crushed shell rock. 

Beyond the fort is a pleasant quarter of villas 
and winter residences, sitting in leafy and 
flowery gardens. There is also, on the edge of 
the green that surrounds Fort Marion, the house 
of the Golf Club. 

This green is the field upon which take place 
some of the ceremonials of the Ponce de Leon 
festival which is occasionally given in St. Augus- 
tine in the spring in commemoration of the great 
explorer's landing. Spanish ships appear in the 
" River of Dolphins " and from them disembark 
the Spaniards. They are met by the Indians. 
It is an agreeable pageant, reminiscent of the 
masking and carnival for which the town used to 
be famous. In the evening the Plaza and its 
adjacent streets are illuminated and there are 
fireworks on the water front. 

Excursions 

Anastasia Island lying directly opposite St. 
Augustine is a favorite excursion. The bridge 
from the foot of King Street crosses the 
river. It carries a light railway. The island 
is sand dunes overgrown with scrub-pine, pal- 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 125 

metto, and other characteristic growth of the 
Florida seashore. The Lighthouse is usually open 
to visitors. Its queer black and white spiral 
stripes make it a notable feature of the landscape. 
Farther south are the coquina quarries. At Ma- 
tanzas Inlet, twelve miles southward, are the 
ruins of an old Spanish fort which guarded this 
approach to the river and the town. This was 
the scene of the capture and massacre by Menen- 
dez of the ship-wrecked French expedition in 
1565, and to some even now the desolate sand 
dunes will seem filled with sinister memories. 

There are drives to be taken both north and 
south of the city. But for the automobilist 
there is still a lack of good roads. However, 
the trip to Jacksonville is comparatively easy, 
and even south to Ormond the adventurous 
motorist will find an interesting road through an 
almost uninhabited country. 



II — St. Augustine to Palm Beach 

(243 m., io4 hrs.) 

East Palatka to San Mateo. 

New Smyrna to Orange City Junction. 

Titusville to Sanford. 

Leaving St. Augustine, the first place is Elkton 
(47 m. from Jacksonville). This is the be- 
ginning of the famous potato raising district of 
which the center is — 

^ Hastings (54 m., pop. 400). — About fifteen 
years ago it was discovered that the soil of this 
region, which had been merely the ordinary pine 
forest, was peculiarly adapted to the growth of 



126 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Irish potatoes, which would mature early and 
compete with the Bermuda product. Since that 
time the growth of the potato culture has been 
remarkable. The small way station, then 
scarcely more than a water-tank, has become an 
animated and prosperous town. The traveler 
who passes through Hastings in the spring at 
the time of the potato digging will even in the 
short time of the train's stop, see an amusing 
and characteristic street scene. The need of ex- 
tra labor at this time attracts to the town great 
numbers of colored people of both sexes. They 
crowd the part of town around the railway sta- 
tion, in picturesque clothes, and in a mood of 
gayety which suggests that a jaunt to the potato- 
digging is for them like a trip to some spring- 
time carnival. Sometimes there are also the 
" camp followers " whom one would expect, an 
occasional quack doctor or an open-air dentist, 
an itinerant vendor of tawdry finery, or the wan- 
dering proprietor of some small moving-picture 
show. Such a glimpse of Hastings is all the 
ordinary tourist will get. But for the settler or 
the man more seriously interested in the new 
agriculture of the South the important thing is 
that the potato crop runs in value to $100.00 an 
acre. It is claimed that cotton can be raised as 
an after-crop upon the potato land. If this- " in- 
tensive culture " can be successfully maintained 
the productive value of the land will be doubled. 

Hastings is the railway station for the small 
settlement of Federal Point on the St. John's 
river, in a fruit-growing and farming district. 
Small hotel. 

East Palatka. (63 m.) Junction for the branch 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 127 

line across the St. John's River to Palatka 
(p. 224), also for branch to San Mateo. 

East Palatka to San Mateo (3 m.). The small 
village is pleasantly situated on a ninety-foot 
bluff overlooking the St. John's river. It lies 
among pine woods interspersed with orange and 
grape-fruit groves. Here extensive and success- 
ful experiments have been made by the San 
Mateo Fruit Company in growing orange trees 
under sheds to protect them from the danger of 
frost. Their groves and packing houses are open 
to visitors. 

After leaving East Palatka the railroad which 
from St. Augustine has run southwest towards 
the St. John's turns sharply east and later south- 
east, making its way back to the Atlantic coast, 
and passing Espanola (82 m.) and Bunnell 
(87 m.). 

Dupont (90 m.) of some importance in the 
lumber and turpentine trade, with large mills. 
There is a tram to the Haw Creek district. 

The railway goes through long stretches of 
pine lands, much thinned out by the lumbermen. 
The trees that remain are almost all tapped for 
turpentine manufacture. The ^' turpentining " 
of the Florida woods is often done with an almost 
cruel recklessness, mere saplings being stunted 
or totally killed in this way for the sake of a 
very trifling profit. Florida's timber, at one time 
her greatest resource, has been wastefully dimin- 
ished, owing to the lack of proper control from 
the Federal or State authorities. The live-oak 
was long ago almost completely taken out of the 



128 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

woods. And the pine forests are being thinned 
out at a rate which is a serious danger both to 
the prosperity and the climate of the State. The 
practice, which has existed in the peninsula from 
time almost immemorial, of burning over the 
back country so that the cattle may be pastured 
on the fresh grass which springs up after the 
fire, is also responsible for enormous timber 
losses every year. 

The railroad crosses the Tomoka river, a 
clear brown stream flowing sluggishly northeast 
into the upper waters of the Halifax, and soon 
reaches 

Ormond (104 m., pop. 780). The express 
trains, during the winter season, cross the Hali- 
fax river by a long bridge and go to the entrance 
of the Hotel Ormond. Certain local trains, and 
during the time of the year when the hotel is 
closed, all trains stop at Ormond station on the 
west side of the Halifax. A horse-car connects 
with trains at the station and crosses the river 
to the Hotel Ormond and the small village of the 
same name. 

Ormond is situated on the Halifax river a 
few miles south of its head. The Halifax is, ac- 
curately, what the Matanzas river at St. Augus- 
tine is, a tidal saltwater lagoon rather than a 
river. Behind a peninsula of sandy dunes which 
shelters it from the Atlantic it runs parallel with 
the coast for almost twenty-five miles to the Mos- 
quito Inlet, where the ocean breaks through the 
sand dunes and pours its flood into the river. 
This topography is characteristic of almost the 
whole Florida East Coast, and gives it its spe- 
cial characteristic, an ocean beach and a river 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 129 

with luxuriant green vegetation on both banks. 

The hotel at Ormond, and most of the most 
attractive residences, are upon the peninsula fac- 
ing west, with a view of the river, which is here 
about a half mile wide. The peninsula is a little 
less wide; an easy walk brings one to a smaller 
hotel on the very edge of the Atlantic, to bath 
houses, and to the famous beach, which is the 
chief boast of both Ormond and Daytona. For 
motoring and driving it is practicable for a few 
miles north from Ormond, its condition varying 
a little with weather and season. But to the 
south there is, for several hours each side of low 
tide, a hard packed smooth roadway of clean 
gray sand extending past Seabreeze and Daytona 
to the Mosquito Inlet, almost twenty miles away, 
a beach probably without an equal in the world. 
Motoring is naturally one of the chief amuse- 
ments of Ormond visitors, for not only is the 
beach available, but excursions are possible 
along the banks of the Halifax, and, if the motor- 
ist can content himself with wood roads of in- 
different quality, into the beautiful hammocks 
and pine lands of the back country. Driving, 
riding, or walking will still further enable the 
visitor to come to know the beauty of the Flor- 
idian country-side. 

Sailing has unfortunately been largely given 
lip along the Halifax; but motor boats and 
steam launches are available for trips on it and 
its tributary rivers and creeks. 

Ormond has for a long time been the chief, 
if not only, center of golf play on this part of 
the East Coast. The old links, near the rail- 
way station, was somewhat flat and monotonous. 



130 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

The new links, which has been laid out on the 
sand dunes next the sea, to the east of the Hotel 
Ormond, will, it is expected, be ready for play 
soon as an eighteen-hole course. The location 
inevitably reminds one of some of the famous old 
courses in Scotland, and if grass can be made to 
grow thickly enough on these rolling wind- 
swept dunes — the question of turf is always a 
difficult one in Florida — Ormond will possess a 
golf course unique in the South, a characteristic 
and delightful new version of St. Andrew's set 
among the tropical blue-green scrub-palmettoes. 
There is a Golf Club House near the bath houses 
on the beach. Information as to permission to 
avail oneself of the privileges of the golf course 
is to be obtained at the office of the Hotel Or- 
mond. 

Sea bathing is always in season. It may seem 
to some a rather rigorous pleasure in January 
and February, yet there is scarcely a day of the 
year when some bathers may not be seen. The 
beach is with ordinary precautions a perfectly 
safe one, yet it is inadvisable for even the strong- 
est and most experienced swimmers to venture 
beyond their depth or to try to swim beyond 
the surf. The quality of the water is very agree- 
able, and the bathing a delightful tonic. 

Excursions from Ormond 

The Tomoka River. — This water trip, which 
can be easily made either in a specially chartered 
launch, or in one of the public boats which run 
regularly every day during the season from both 
Ormond and Daytona, is the most famous and 
delightful excursion in this region. It is usual 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 131 

to devote a day to it, taking provisions and hav- 
ing a picnic meal before the return. Hot coffee 
and lunch may usually during tte season be 
secured at the " Tomoka Cabin " at the end' of 
trip. Inquiry as to this should, however, be 
made beforehand at the hotels or at the boat 
landing. It is common to make the return trip 
by land, in carriage or motor, from the head of 
navigation on the Tomoka across country to Or- 
mond or Daytona. This shortens and varies the 
day. But it is probable that the majority will 
not find retracing the course by water other 
than agreeable. 

From Ormond the boat goes north on the salt 
blue waters of the Halifax for between three and 
four miles, passing occasional cottages and 
orange groves. It then rounds a low-lying 
heavily-wooded point on the west bank and turns 
sharply south and a little west into the clear 
dark brown stream of the Tomoka. 

The river takes its name from the tribe of 
Indians which inhabited the region in the 
early days. In the old books and manuscripts 
Tomoka is also spelled Tomoca, Timuqua, 
Timuaca, and Timagoa. The tribe was a well- 
known and important one, and was, among 
Floridian Indians, comparatively civilized. 
Their language in especial seems to have been 
held in high estimation throughout the penin- 
sula, and served as a general means of inter- 
course; was in fact a kind of noble language 
or lingua franca. It engaged the attention of 
missionaries and students. Works on it are 
among the earliest Spanish writings on Florida, 
and a translation of the catechism into it was 



132 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

perhaps the first book ever printed in the Indian 
language. 

From its r^iouth the river is ascended in long 
lazy curves, a wooded bank rising gradually to 
a bluff of shell-rock — coquina — on the left, on 
the right wide grassy marshes. It is on sunny 
mud-banks in the corners and tiny bays of this 
winding shore at the right that one may hope to 
see the alligator at his ease. The luck of tour- 
ists varies, and so the score of alligators seen is 
an exciting matter for comparison by different 
parties of Tomoka visitors. But the animals 
really abound in these dark waters where they 
are '' preserved " by a law which forbids killing 
them anywhere along or in the Tomoka. No at- 
tention need be paid to apocr3^phal yarns of 
stuffed saurians placed along the river at the 
beginning of the season by the enterprising pro- 
prietors of the excursion-boats. If too much 
swash from the launches and too much noise from 
the passengers have not already sent them glid- 
ing to retreats below alligators are almost to be 
counted upon along this bit of water. By a high 
coquina bluff the boat goes under the railroad 
bridge. Near here the famous King's Road built 
during the English occupation in the early nine- 
teenth century crossed the river, on its way north 
from New Smyrna to St. Augustine, at a point 
called Tomoka Ferry. 

Beyond the railroad the river narrows, the 
tangle of vegetation on both banks grows more 
luxuriant. Palmettoes and live-oaks overhang 
the water. The scene becomes suddenly in- 
tensely tropical, by comparison with the blue 
waters and the salt breezes which have been left 




RIdgewood A\eniie, Daytona 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 133 

behind. Here, even in the winter days when 
northers blow, the wind scarcely penetrates. 
The dark river, which flows with such a sluggish 
current, seems to have fallen asleep in the hush 
and silence between its green banks. An occa- 
sional bird skims along the glassy surface, a fish 
jumps, or a turtle falls awkwardly ofif some drift- 
ing log. The wave from the launch runs lapping 
along the bank, but one feels that when it has 
subsided the same mysterious silence will again 
fall upon the Tomoka, broken only by birds sing- 
ing in the green treetops high up above. 

The variety of color in the Floridian vegeta- 
tion is unusual. The combination in one thick 
growth of evergreen and deciduous trees gives 
the whole range of greens, every possible shade 
and tint. Blue-green of palmettoes, the yellowish 
brightness of tender young oak, the dark mass 
of the parasitic mistletoe, or of the " resurrec- 
tion " ferns which clothe great gray limbs, ris- 
ing in a feathery green glory at each rainfall — 
the list could be extended almost indefinitely if 
one were to try to describe in any detail the 
tangle of green between which these brown 
waters lie. The strangeness, the magic of the 
tropics hangs in the very air, the beauty is al- 
most overpowering. 

The boats stop at the Tomoka Cabin where 
there is a large flowing well, a notable sight 
even in this country of artesian water supply. 

Passing under a bridge beyond this point, it is 
possible in a small boat or canoe to go for some 
miles up the constantly narrowing stream, till 
the overhanging trees meet and one is in shaded 
darkness even at midday. But the most note- 



134 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

worthy part of the Tomoka is what is seen on 
the ordinary excursion. 

On the return by land to Ormond, a detour 
may be made to the '' Chimneys," a ruin of what 
was probably a sugar mill. 

A favorite drive is directly north past the 
Hotel Ormond along the " River Road " on the 
peninsula side of the Halifax to " Number Nine," 
an orange grove where the fruit and various 
fruit preserves are to be purchased. 

Farther north the road turns west, crosses the 
canal between the Halifax and Matanzas rivers 
and comes to Knox and Reed's grove. Beyond 
this the road, which though often not more than 
a sandy track through the woods, goes on 
towards St. Augustine. It is, however, fre- 
quently traversed by motors, and except some- 
times after a long drought, is not too difficult 
for the ordinary driver. It is advisable, how- 
ever, to make inquiries at Ormond as to the con- 
dition of the road before attempting it. It will 
give the visitor a vivid idea of the lonely beauty 
of the back country, and of the curious isolated 
lives of its few inhabitants. 

Ormond is one of the most attractive of the 
smaller places of this part of the State. Its life 
is largely dependent on its hotels, and except 
during their season it is quiet. It lies, however, 
in the zone of climate which allows visitors to 
come early and to stay late. It offers, moreover, 
a variety of out-of-door pleasures both on land 
and water. The country around it is accessible 
and interesting. 

Daytona (no m., pop. 3,082). This is also 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 135 

the station which serves Seabreeze and Daytona 
Beach, suburbs of Daytona upon the peninsula 
lying between the Halifax river and the Atlan- 
tic. Da3^tona and its adjacent villages form the 
largest town on the East Coast between St. 
Augustine and Miami, and one of the most im- 
portant tourist centers of the State. 

Omnibuses and cabs (25^ per passenger in 
Daytona itself) meet all trains day and night. 
'- Daytona's special character comes from the 
great number of its private residences. More 
than many resorts it possesses a population 
which, though northern in origin, does not so 
much " go to Florida for the winter " ^s " live 
in Florida and go north for the summer." There 
are in the town a great number of hotels and 
boarding houses. Furnished rooms are to be 
secured by those who like to do " light house- 
keeping " or to eat in restaurants. Furnished 
houses are also easily to be had. Hotel accom- 
modation ranges from extreme simplicity and low 
prices to the elegance and expensiveness of the 
newest hotel, which may properly be ranked with 
the best hotels anywhere in the State. Yet Day- 
tona does not compete with St. Augustine, Palm 
Beach, or Miami as the resort of fashion. It is 
especially suited to a quieter and perhaps a longer 
stay. The natural beauties of its situation and 
of the surrounding country are unquestionable, 
the town itself unusually well-kept and attrac- 
tive, the number of excursions and the variety 
of outdoor amusements great. With its famous 
beach and various hard roads upon the main land 
it is a notable motoring center, and its climate 
allows a prolonged stay. 



136 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

There would seem to have been no early Span- 
ish settlement of any size at Daytona, but for 
a long time there was in the vicinity a large 
Indian town known in the Spanish records as 
Pueblo de Autumcas. 

Later the land then known as the Williams 
Grant was highly improved and cultivated as a 
sugar plantation, but was abandoned during the 
Seminole War of 1835, and allowed to go back 
to its original wild condition. On Ridgewood 
Avenue at the corner of Loomis is to be seen 
some wrecked machinery which may probably 
have belonged to this early plantation. It is 
notewortjiy how untouched by rust is the metal 
in all these Florida ruins. 

The present city of Daytona was founded in 
1870 by Mathias Day of Mansfield, Ohio, who 
named it " Tomoka." In 1871, however, Thomas 
Saunders, a well known landscape gardener of 
Washington, renamed it, substituting for the 
earlier attractive and suitable name the more 
commonplace " Daytona," under which the town 
has nevertheless grown and prospered. 

Daytona lies with a waterfront of almost two 
miles on the west bank of the Halifax, which is 
here crossed by three bridges. Beach Street 
contains the post office and the principal shops. 
It is separated from the river by parkage of 
varying width and offers a pleasant water-view 
wiih, beyond, the green peninsula, its shores 
lined with cottages half hidden in the trees. It 
is the chief promenade of the town, and has, at 
both its northern and southern ends, a residen- 
tial quarter. Near the South Bridge is the Hal- 
ifax River Yacht Club's house, picturesquely 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 137 

built over the water. Sailing is unfortunately 
little indulged in now, but from the club go forth 
many steam yachts, launches and motor boats. 
Parties cruising along the coast almost invar- 
iably stop a day or two at Daytona, and the sight 
of stranger yachts constantly diversifies the 
river view near the club house. 

The " City Island " north of the South Bridge 
is being improved as a park, largely by the ef- 
forts of the Woman's Club, the Palmetto. On 
the island stands the. Free Library and Reading 
Room, an ugly but useful building. 

Ridgewood Avenue, which runs parallel to 
Beach Street along the crest of a slight ridge 
from which the town slopes to the Halifax, is 
the show street of the town. It is lined with 
private residences and hotels, and bordered with 
great trees, mostly oaks, which spread till they 
almost meet over the roadway. From their 
branches the gray Spanish moss hangs heavily 
— the vista down the street is a curious, strik- 
ing and beautiful one. 

The side streets of Daytona ofifer also pleas- 
antly shaded walks, and give the visitor a full 
impression of its character of a "home city." 
There are houses of all kinds from the humblest 
to the most pretentious. There are churches of 
all denominations. There is an excellent new 
school building. There is a Free Library. 
There is a Woman's Club, " The Palmetto," es- 
tablished in an attractive house and doing an ad- 
mirable work for civic culture and municipal im- 
provement. There is electric lighting, and a city 
water system, which supplies water from 
artesian wells. There are in short an unusual 



138 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

number of city advantages in what is fortunately 
essentially still a country town. 

Seabreeze and Daytona Beach, municipally 
separate incorporations, in appearance merge in- 
distinguishably one into the other. They are 
the rapidly-growing settlements which have 
sprung up opposite Daytona on the peninsula 
between river and ocean. There are hotels and 
cottages on the crest of the sand dunes on the 
very edge of the beach itself. And from there 
to the houses on the riverside there are more 
or less thickly built-up allotments. The river 
bank of the peninsula has naturally the richest 
vegetation. Both oaks and palmettoes fringe it, 
and huge oleanders, roses and orange trees flour- 
ish. In a state of nature the center of the pen- 
insula's width is covered with a small wood of 
scrub pines which do not raise their tops much 
above the point where the dunes by the sea 
shelter them from the east wind. In the parts 
of the peninsula where this miniature forest has 
not been cleared away one may find occasional 
paths or trails cut through it. These are de- 
lightful sheltered walks, under dwarfed and 
twisted branches, over a fragrant carpet of pine 
needles. 

Where clearings have been made it is astonish- 
ing to find what may be grown in this peninsula 
sand. On the very dunes by the shore, where 
the sand is so fine and hard and clean that it 
would not soil the most delicate fabric, potatoes, 
tomatoes, and other garden vegetables grow, sub- 
sisting, one would think, on air and water alone. 

It is the beach, however, which is the final 
goal of everyone who crosses to the peninsula. 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 139 

At Daytona begins the very best part of it, and 
from there south to the Mosquito Inlet are twelve 
miles of the broadest, hardest, smoothest beach, 
the most perfect automobile course in the world. 
For two hours each side of high tide the beach 
is not firm enough for traffic. But at all other 
times it is constantly traversed by motors of 
every description, by motor-cycles, by bicycles 

— an almost forgotten sport survives in Daytona 

— by carriages, by horseback riders, even by 
pedestrians. A racing car thunders by, doing its 
mile in thirty-five seconds, and some old lady 
searching for shells puts in an hour on a half 
mile at the water's edge. Bathers scamper across 
the sand and plunge into the surf. The blue 
waves roll in, the white beach shimmers away 
in a long curve southeastward and in the faint 
misty distance rises the lighthouse at the Inlet. 
Climbing the sand dunes you see behind them a 
long valley of blue-green palmetto scrub, a strip 
of rolling heath-like country and behind that the 
top of the dwarf pine wood. For the lover of 
nature's beauty this Florida beach, in the blaze 
of noon, at sunset or at moonrise, is an ever- 
changing delight. It is preeminently the one 
great sight of Daytona. 

The North or Peninsula Bridge crossing the 
Halifax at an angle leads first to a part of Sea- 
breeze on the river, and then by a broad avenue 
to the Clarendon Hotel on the beach. The Cen- 
tral Bridge crosses direct and its continuing road 
across the Peninsula takes one past the cemetery 
to the ocean at the Seaside Inn. These two 
bridges start from the extreme north end of the 
town's waterfront. The South Bridge starting 



Z40 



A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 



near the City Hall and the Yacht Club leads to 
a part of the peninsula containing only private 
residences and estates. The small building over- 
hanging the water on the right-hand side is the 
jail ! There is also a ferry (launch) running at 
frequent intervals from the Daytona waterfront 
to the peninsula. From the farther end of the 
South Bridge the road leads to the beach where 
is the Club House of the Florida East Coast Au- 
tomobile Association. It was under the auspices 
of this association that the famous automobile 
races were held in 1904, 1905, 1906, 1907, 1908, 
1909, 1910. 

The most notable records established here have 
been — 



STRAIGHTAWAY FREE-FOR-ALL RECORDS. REGARDLESS 
OF CLASS 



Distance. Time. 
I kilo. ... 15.88 



1 mile. . . 

2 miles. . 
5 miles. 

10 miles. , 
15 miles. 



I mile. , 



25.40 
51.28 
2:34 
5:142-5 
10:00 



:40.53 



Driver. Car. Date. 

...Burman Blitzen Benz. .Apr. 23, 191 1 

. ..Burman Blitzen Benz. .Apr. 23, 1911 

...Burman Blitzen Benz. .Apr. 23, 191 1 

. ..Hemery Darracq Jan. 24, 1909 

.. .Bruce-Brown. . ..Benz Mar. 24, 1900 

. . . Lancia Fiat Jan. 29, 1906 



(Standing Start) 
.Oldfield Benz. 



,Mar. 16, 1910 



Excursions. 

The trip to Ormond and the Tomoka river, 
a favorite one from Daytona, has already been 
described under Ormond. 

The Big Tree. — Following the road to Port 
Orange — a continuation of Ridgewood Avenue 
south — and turning west after about two miles, 
(signboard marks the road) one reaches a fa- 
mous old oak tree, in the spreading branches of 
which a platform — reached by a staircase — 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 141 

has been built. It is one of the largest and 
probably one of the oldest trees in the State. 
A small admission is charged to orange grove in 
which the Big Tree stands. 

Motoring. — The most varied and interesting 
trip is over the road to New Smyrna. As far as 
six miles Port Orange (p. 142) the road runs in- 
land, through a succession of hammock and pine 
lands. Beyond Port Orange, it skirts the Hali- 
fax for a great part of the distance, passing small 
beaches, shell mounds, crossing arms of the 
river, and finally through a wonderfully wooded 
stretch reaching New Smyrna (15 m.). It would 
be difficult to find a road which in the same dis- 
tance ofifers an equal variety of scene, gives such 
a complete idea of the charms of this East Coast 
country. 

The road to DeLand is also a favorite one for 
motors. It goes through the heart of the almost 
uninhabited back country. It is somewhat 
monotonous and desolate, but for many these 
lonely stretches of pine lands have their own 
unmistakable charm. A visit to DeLand (p. 256) 
may be combined with one to the delightful 
De Leon Springs (p. 255). 

Mosquito Inlet and Ponce Park may be 
reached by water or along the beach, crossing 
the Halifax at either Daytona or Port Orange 
where there is a bridge. The characteristics of 
the ride along the beach have already been in- 
dicated. As the inlet is approached the vegeta- 
tion of the peninsula disappears and the land 
ends in a waste of dazzling white sand dunes be- 
tween river and ocean. Through the inlet itself 
the tide is always rushing, either on the flow or 



142 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

the ebb. The streaming currents, the constant 
white line of breakers on the bar, the presence 
of the half-submerged wreckage of an ill-fated 
steamer, whose boilers still stand embedded in 
the sands, make the picture of Mosquito Inlet 
one to be remembered. 

The lighthouse, a graceful brick tower, i6o 
feet high, is worth a visit, and may be ascended, 
for the sake of the lantern itself and of the ex- 
tensive view from it. It was built in 1887. The 
light is of the first order and is visible 18 miles 
to sea. The neat group of houses of the keepers 
at its foot is a pleasant oasis in the wild dunes. 

On the riverside is the small settlement of 
Ponce Park. It has two hotels, a number of 
private houses and a picturesque store and post 
office overhanging the water. It is frequented 
chiefly by fishermen, and boats, guides, etc., are 
easily secured. Ponce Park is also the center of 
the administration of the Mosquito Inlet Bird 
Reservation. From Daytona to beyond New 
Smyrna to the south the United States Govern- 
ment is protecting the wild birds. In the four 
years only during which the " preserve " regula- 
tions have been in force the increase in wild life 
has been remarkable. Birds that were rare have 
increased in numbers, and birds which were only 
remembered by early settlers have come back 
again. The warden is Mr. Bert Pacetti. 

Port Orange, (115 m.) which in earlier days 
was simply but pleasantly called The Orange 
Grove. A village charmingly situated on the 
west bank of the Halifax which is here crossed 
by a bridge, rendering the famous beach acces- 




c 

u 



o 

Oh 



CD 







ci 

C 

o 
Q 

<u 

H 

fcJD 

H 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH i43 

sible for walking, driving, motoring or bathing 
purposes. Port Orange is suited to those who 
like a quiet and comparatively inexpensive life. 
Houses and building sites are easily secured. 

A favorite excursion is to the Sugar Mill, a 
picturesque ruin in a particularly lovely grassy 
clearing in the woods, a couple of miles north- 
west of the village. Its history, like that of so 
many of the Florida ruins, is somewhat inde- 
terminate, but it probably belongs to the period 
of English occupation, and dates from the end 
of the eighteenth century. 

New Smyrna (125 m., pop. 1,121) is one of 
the oldest settlements in Florida; it is occasion- 
ally claimed for it — indeed the legend is never 
quite discredited — that it is even older than St. 
Augustine. But of that earlier Spanish period 
littfe can be discovered in any authentic records, 
almost as little as of the previous settlements of 
the Indians, though the region has many shell 
mounds yielding to the excavator pottery and 
weapons and other traces of barbaric life. 

However a very interesting chapter of Florida 
history began at New Smyrna in 1767, four years 
after the cession of the provinces to England by 
Spain. A certain Dr. Andrew Turnbull, an Eng- 
lish physician and gentleman of fortune, headed 
a company which secured a grant from the Gov- 
ernor of Florida of 60,000 acres of rich hammock 
land near New Smyrna, on condition that certain 
agricultural improvements should be made with- 
in a specified time. He then sailed for the 
Mediterranean, a region which must have already 
been familiar to him, as his wife was of 
Greek origin and had been born at Smyrna, in 



144 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA ' 

Asia Minor, a circumstance which gave its pres- 
ent odd name to the Florida town. 

By a payment of £400 to the authorities, he 
obtained a permit to transport to Florida famil- 
ies of Greeks, recruited mostly from the Pel- 
oponnesus. On the westward voyage he ob- 
tained further emigrants for his enterprise at the 
Balearic Islands, mostly in Minorca. Altogether 
fifteen hundred men, women and children set sail 
for Florida. Sir William Duncan and Dr. Turn- 
bull, the heads of the company, expended one 
hundred and sixty-six thousand dollars in this 
emigration. The new settlers were indentured 
under articles, which guaranteed them transpor- 
tation, clothing and support. Any dissatisfied 
after six months were to be sent back home. 
Those remaining were to give their labor for 
three years but, at the end of that time, were to 
receive fifty acres of land for each family and 
twenty-five for each child. 

The voyage was a hard and long one, and 
many of the emigrants died during it. Never- 
theless the colony began auspiciously. The land 
was rich, and needed only the drainage operations 
which Turnbull started at once in a most scien- 
tific manner. His canals still remain and vari- 
ous ruins which remind the tourist of this chap- 
ter of history. In the hammocks behind the 
town can still be found the faint traces of ridges 
and furrows said to be those of the indigo cul- 
ture. The produce of the colony began to be 
valuable. By 1772 three thousand acres were 
under cultivation and the net value of the crop 
was £3,174. But unfortunately little regard was 
paid to the promises made the laborers. 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 145 

Definite information is hard to secure, but the 
fact seems that the Minorcans — as all the col- 
onists had come to be called — were reduced to a 
conditon of actual slavery, of an extremely op- 
pressive and cruel character. In 1769 an insur- 
rection took place among them but w^as put 
down, the leaders being brought to St. Augus- 
tine for trial. Five were condemned to death. 
Of these two were pardoned, and another re- 
leased on the condition that he become the ex- 
ecutioner of the remaining two. By 1776 con- 
ditions were no better, and only six hundred of 
the colonists were left, but these were again 
ready for revolt. 

>- Three of the leaders escaped along the coast, 
swam the Matanzas inlet and appealed to Gov- 
ernor Tonyn at St. Augustine. Encouraged by 
him they returned to New Smyrna, and armed 
with rude weapons and carrying such provisions 
as they could the entire colony suddenly and 
secretly started on a march to St. Augustine, 
under the leadership of a certain Pallicier — 
a name still common in the region. At the col- 
onial capital legal proceedings were successfully 
begun and successfully carried through freeing 
the Minorcans from any further demands upon 
their services. Lands were allotted to them in 
the northern part of the city, where their de- 
scendants may still be found. Certain of them 
returned to New Smyrna or its vicinity upon as- 
surances that there was no danger of their re- 
enslavement, and Minorcan names are still found 
at New Smyrna, Ponce Park, and Daytona. 
The Turnbull history is a curious one; it has 
been made even more highly colored and sen- 



146 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

sational in the hands of a widely read novelist, 
the late Archibald Clavering Gunter, who con- 
cocted from it, with liberal and inaccurate imag- 
inative additions, his volumes " Susan TurnbuU " 
and "Bally-Ho Bey." 

The English promoter of the colony must have 
lost enormously by it, as it was necessarily 
abandoned just as it was becoming prosperous. 
Dr. Turnbull had been an important and re- 
spected man in the community, a member of the 
colonial privy council, and at one time a prospec- 
tive appointee as Governor. It may be some- 
thing to redeem his credit that at the time of the 
Revolutionary War he forfeited his estates ow- 
ing to his adherence to the cause of the col- 
onies. His son, Robert James Turnbull, born at 
New Smyrna a year before the Minorcan revolt, 
was educated in England and studied law in 
Charleston, S. C. (to which city his father had 
removed), and at Philadelphia. He practiced 
law in Charleston, and became a leading writer 
on political subjects, advocating strongly " nulli- 
fication." A monument to his memory was 
erected in Charleston by his political admirers 
and friends. His name is in all dictionaries of 
American biography. 

After the Minorcan rebellion New Smyrna 
was deserted until early in the nineteenth cen- 
tury when it was again cultivated until the Sem- 
inole War forced its abandonment. 

The Civil War again brought it into some slight 
prominence. Blockade runners made frequent 
use of the Mosquito Inlet. Finally two United 
States gunboats, the " Penguin " and the " Henry 
Andrew," passed the inlet and attacked the town, 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 147 

which had fired on them. Every building or 
wharf which could aid the blockade runners was 
burned. To this day there is a legend of hulks 
containing treasure which lie somewhere at the 
bottom of Spruce Creek, where they were sunk 
to escape capture by the Yankees. 

New Smyrna in these days is a pleasant river- 
side town at the beginning of the Hillsboro 
river. It was for a long time chiefly a resort of 
those who came for the shooting and fishing of 
the region. Nowadays, however, it is participat- 
ing in the new wave of Florida prosperity. Neat 
houses and gardens are springing up everywhere 
and it is becoming one of the pleasantest towns 
of the East Coast. ^ 

There are remains of a stone wharf, of the 
Turnbull period, to be seen by the river. And 
on the waterfront north of Sams' Hotel the con- 
siderable ruins of what must have been either 
a large and strongly fortified house, or a small 
fort, with bastions at each of the four corners. 
It has been partially excavated, and is open to 
the public. It is commonly called Turnbull's 
Castle, but it is not absolutely known whether 
it dates from his time or is a relic of earlier days 
of the Spanish rule. 

Perhaps no more interesting, but more pic- 
turesque, are what are commonly called the ruins 
of the Spanish Mission, a few miles back from 
the town. Again of these little accurately is 
known, but it would seem probable that they are 
what is left of a church and a small cloister of 
the Spanish times, dating probably late in the 
seventeenth century, and used late in the eight- 
eenth as a sugar mill. It is a charming and ro- 



148 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

mantic experience to come upon such gray me- 
morials hidden in the green of the Florida back 
country. 

Excursions 

By motor the chief trip is-*o Port Orange, 
Daytona and Ormond. South the roads are ex- 
cellent to Hawks Park. 

By water may be visited Ponce Park and Mos- 
quito Inlet. (See p. 141.) 

Spruce Creek, which is navigable by boats of 
small draft, has a channel not marked out, and 
often obstructed by sunken logs. With a guide 
it is however possible to explore it for many 
miles. It has the same general character as the 
Tomoka river, though it is a smaller stream. 
The vegetation is a rich tangle along its banks 
at places, at other shell banks rise crowned with 
pine trees. It is a lonely stream, rarely visited^ 
— some will prefer it for that reason. 

Coronado Beach. Crossing the Hillsboro river 
by the bridge at New Smyrna — a two-mile drive 
leads to this pleasant little resort on the very 
edge of the Atlantic. There is a small hotel 
here. The beach is a hard one like that at Day- 
tona, though not so long. It and the bathing are 
the chief attractions, though proximity to New 
Smyrna and the country behind it allows of many 
excursions. 

New Smyrna to Orange City Junction 

A branch line of the F. E. C. R. R. runs from 
New Smyrna 2.y miles to Orange City Junction, 
a ride of two and one-half hours. The way is 
at first through a beautiful oak hammock, the 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 149 

trees being of large growth and particularly free 
from underbrush. Traces of old settlements are 
seen in the fields, now partly forest-grown, in 
the ridges and furrows of the old cultivation. 
The extensive indigo plantations here have left 
traces in their ruined walls, mills and old vats. 
Glencoe (2 m.) is the first station. The low flat- 
woods country, succeeded by prairie and ponds, 
is only of service as grazing land for cattle. 
Through Briggsville (7 m.), Indian Springs (10 
m.) and Rogers (15 m.) the country becomes 
more attractive. 

Lake Helen (21 m.) is one of the most charm- 
ing spots in Florida. There are numerous other 
lakes in easy reach among the pine forests on 
the high ridge lands. This section is a favorite 
resott for the tourist. There is a bracing quality 
in the air, and the call of the pines makes every 
hour out-of-doors delightful. There is a succes- 
sion of sports of all kinds, filling the days with 
wholesome pleasures and occupations. In the 
town the streets are strewn with pine needles, 
fragrant and soft to the tread. The houses are 
within well-kept grounds. Large peach orchards 
and orange groves surround the town on all sides. 
There are also manufacturing interests here — 
lumber mills, box factories, brick and lime yards, 
and a factory for making starch from cassava and 
Indian arrowroot, both of which grow abundantly 
here. (Hotels, see list.) 

Camp Cassadaga is most beautifully situated 
less than a mile south of Lake Helen. It is on 
a high blufif, and overlooks several beautiful lakes. 
It is the Southerners' Cassadaga — the Spirit- 
ualists' assembly for the winter. Many of the 



150 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

visitors, however, come here because of the great 
natural advantages. The breezes are fragrant 
with pine odors, the air is soothing and balmy. 
The out-of-door life that may be enjoyed to such 
perfection here cannot fail to benefit both soul 
and body. Meetings are held, with regularly ar- 
ranged programs. Speaking and healing medi- 
ums are here, and others for the demonstration 
of the reality of the eternalness of life by phe- 
nomena. The philosophy of Spiritualism is ex- 
pounded. It is the Mecca for believers, and 
many come to study and be instructed. There is 
a constant growth in the number of visitors, and 
every year finds its influence extending more 
widely. 

Twin Oaks (24 m.) is the next station west of 
Lake Helen, and then Orange City (26 m.), an 
attractive little settlement. There are many 
winter homes here, and the conveniences of city 
life are found — lights, water, good streets, 
schools, a library, etc. In the surrounding coun- 
try are many orange groves, some of which, be- 
fore the " great freeze," were among the finest 
in the State. Those who did not abandon their 
groves, but made their care and conservation 
during slight frosts a study, are reaping a re- 
ward in the renewed prosperity of the industry. 
Out-of-doors life claims most of the visitors, and 
there are many interesting and beautiful places 
near. (Hotels, see list.) 

Orange City Junction (27 m.) is the terminus 
of the line. Here connection with the main line 
of the A. C. L. Ry. for the south is made. 

Blue Springs (p. 229) on the St. John's river 
is reached from Orange City Junction. Wekiva 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 151 

Springs is not far away. DeLand (p. 255) can 
also be easily reached by automobile transfer 
from Orange City Junction. 

From New Smyrna the oak hammock is soon 
left and the way lies to the right of the Hillsboro 
or North Indian river, with pine woods and roll- 
ing lands extending in towards the lake country 
to the west. 

-V Hawks Park (127 m.) has long been a resort 
for sportsmen, both on water and the shore. 
Turtle Mound can be reached from here by an 
interesting water trip. (See p. 362, Inland Wat- 
erways.) There are some fine orange groves 
in this neighborhood — some of the oldest ham- 
mock groves in the State were here at the time 
of the frost in 1895, with trees over forty years 
old in full bearing. One of great beauty was at 
Massacre Bluff, a plantation on the Hillsboro 
near here. The gruesome name — Massacre 
Bluff — was well earned. The house was built 
on an Indian midden mound, and the burial 
mound near contained skeletons that were evi- 
dently the remains of fighting men. In Seminole 
times the inhabitants were massacred there. 
During the Civil War the owner of the place 
was killed, and about eighteen years ago the 
people then living there were murdered. Thus a 
series of violent deaths have made a haunted 
spot of this beautiful place. The groves and 
apiaries of McWilliams Hart are well worth a 
visit. The country can be reached by good shell 
roads. There are some cottages of winter resi- 
dents. (Hotels, see list.) 

Hucomer (131 m.) is a station for the conven- 



152 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

ience of the settlers, chiefly orange growers, in 
the neighborhood. 

Oak Hill (136 m.) has its clientele of sports- 
men, some of whom have been regular winter 
visitors for many years. The waters of the 
Hillsboro, the surrounding country and the pen- 
insula to the east are their natural preserves. 
The railroad now leaves the water to the left 
and crosses the spur of land that divides the 
Hillsboro from the Indian river. 

Lyrata (143 m.). Here the Indian River 
stretches away on the left. On its opposite side, 
a little farther on, is " The Haulover." (See 
p. 364, Inland Waterways.) The way is along 
the water's shore, and the soil is particularly fer- 
tile in this region. The famous, or rather in- 
famous Turnbull Hammock is now traversed. 
East Mims (150 m.) is passed. 

Titusville (154 m. pop. 838) is an old town lo- 
cated at the virtual head of navigation in the days 
before the railroad was built down the coast. 
The famous Indian river oranges and the early 
vegetables from Merritt's Island were brought 
here to be shipped by the primitive little rail- 
road to Sanford on the St. John's. Here there are 
good stores and a boat-yard for hauling out and 
repairs. Fishing and oystering are active in- 
dustries, and the commercial interests of the town 
are reviving. It is a center for a well-tilled agri- 
cultural region, though orange growing is the 
chief industry. It is a sportsmen's center, as 
much of the surrounding land is still forest and 
unused prairie, and the waterways to the east- 
ward across the Indian river open up much more. 
Local information can be obtained as to excur- 




s 

E 

CO 

t 



CO 

u 



3 

g 



*3 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 153 

sions, etc. (Hotels, see list.) The steamers 
plying from St. Augustine south touch here. 
(See schedules.) 

Titusville to Sanford 

(47 m., 3 hrs.) 

A branch line of the F. E. C. R. R. leaves Titus- 
ville to the northwest. Passing South Lake, La- 
Grange (2 m.) is reached, through country filled 
with new citrus groves and many old ones being 
brought back to their former high estate. The 
gleam of their rich shining leaves and golden 
fruit is seen from the car windows. Mims (4 
m.) is passed, and then Turnbull (8 m.), an his- 
toric though execrated name here. The rich 
Turnbull hammock lies to the east. Aurantia 
(9 m.), with orange groves and ripening fruit 
justifying its name. Passing Maytown (16 m.) 
at Cow Creek (21 m.) a little stream is crossed, 
and vegetable gardens and celery farms are seen. 
Celery City (23 m.) and Kalamazoo (26 m.) lie 
north of Lake Harney, one of the chain of lakes 
forming the upper St. John's. Osteen (29 m.) 
and Garfield, (34 m.) are in the midst of garden 
country. From Enterprise (36 m.) to Enterprise 
Junction (40 m.) the road follows the shore of 
Lake Monroe to Sanford (47 m. See p. 229). 

Leaving Titusville, several small stations are 
passed as the railroad follows the river south- 
ward. Pritchards (158 m.), Delespine (163 m.), 
Frontenac (165 m.), Sharpes (168 m.), where the 
river narrows to three miles, and City Point (169 
m.). 



154 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Cocoa (173 m. pop. 618) is a thriving little 
town with stores, churches and schools. There 
is a good wharf; oysters and fish abound. Good 
roads lead to the open country, the one along the 
shore to Rockledge, south i| m., is an especially 
attractive ride. Fishing and shooting are found 
in the neighborhood. Cocoa Point on the way 
to Rockledge has a good little beach for still- 
water fishing. Cocoa is also the railway station 
for Indianola and Merritt on Merritt's Island. 
The water protection on all sides makes the cli- 
mate of the island several degrees warmer than 
the main land, while breezes temper the heat 
even in the summer. Shooting and fishing, and 
at Indianola, sulphur baths, are the chief at- 
tractions for visitors. The tropical vegetation 
of the island, particularly the bananas, is worthy 
of noting. The island takes its name from a cer- 
tain Merritt who had thriving plantations here 
in the early days, wholly abandoned by him 
later. 

Rockledge (175 m.) is to the left of the rail- 
road and has one of the most picturesque situa- 
tions on the upper Indian river. It was the first 
winter resort of any importance in early times. 
The formation of rock coquina on which the 
town is built is water-worn in curious shapes, 
and there is a fringe of vigorous trees on either 
side of the road skirting the river bank that is 
most tropical in appearance. The water life is 
very attractive here. The open river extends 
north and south from its northern end to the 
Narrows, a distance of seventy miles, and the 
conditions are perfect for motor cruising in small 
boats. The Indian river oranges are in perfec- 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 155 

tion here. There are golf links, etc. Excur- 
sions to Merritt's Island by boat are worth mak- 
ing; also to the Banana river. Information as 
to these can be obtained locally. (Hotels, see 
list) for the convenience of visitors, and other 
accommodations, are of the first class. 

Bonaventure (179 m.) and Pineda (183 m.) are 
next passed. Eau Gallie (190 m.) is a small 
town on high land. Directly opposite is the 
mouth of the Banana river. (See p. 366, Inland 
Waterways.) There are boat-ways here and 
facilities for repairs. The local industries are 
saw-mills and turpentine stills. (Hotels, see 
list.) 

The orange region has now been left, and a 
tract of sandy country with a sparse growth of 
pine and much palmetto is traversed. Elbow 
Creek is crossed, and Military Park (192 m.) is 
reached. Here on the high bank of the river 
are the quarters where the Kentucky Military 
Institute spends its winter term. This plan of 
moving a whole school so that its pupils may 
have constant out-of-door life, and also oppor- 
tunity to learn something of the different sec- 
tions of the country, seems an interesting and 
wholly novel experiment. 

The river gradually narrows to a width of two 
miles at Melbourne (194 m.), a small town at 
the mouth of Crane Creek, having stores, 
churches and schools. There are pools in which 
sulphur baths may be taken, the water being 
at a natural temperature of 'j'j degrees. The 
shooting and fishing in the neighborhood is 
good. Crane Creek is a good cruising ground 
for small boats. Across the river is East Mel- 



1S6 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

bourne with a good road across the peninsula, 
a third of a mile, to the beach. (Hotels, see 
list.) 

Tillman (197 m.), Malabar (200 m.) and Val- j 
karia (203 m.) are passed. West of here, eight 
miles, is the St. John's river. 

Grant (206 m.). The name of this small sta- 
tion wakens memories in every old visitor to 
the Indian river. Opposite the station, in the 
river, .vas a small island — Grant's Farm, and 
the ciiannels on either side of it were almost 
impassable. Everyone going either north or 
south has made involuntary visits there, detained 
by persuasive sandbanks and insistent oyster- 
bars. (Hotels, see list.) 

Micco (209 m.) and Roseland (212 m.) are 
small stations. The Sebastian river, a wide 
stream with picturesque stretches is crossed. Se- 
bastian (215 m.) is a small settlement. Here the 
Warden for the Bird Reservation on Pelican 
Island is found, and a visit from here is easily 
made. 

Wabasso (219 m.). Quay (222 m.), Gifford 
(226 m.), Vero (228 m.), Oslo (231 m.) and Vi- 
king (235 m.) are stations that have a vista of 
conventional Florida scenery on the right, and 
on the left the mirror of the Indian river, the 
nearer view of which would reveal clusters of 
beautiful islands, making the exploration of the 
boat channel in this part of the river, called 
" The Narrows," well worth a visit. 

Fort Capron, the site of a fort in Seminole 
days, is passed just befote reaching St. Lucie 
(239 m.). For many years this was the winter 
home of the late Matthew S. Quay, Senator from 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 157 

Pennsylvania. Through his efforts the Indian 
river inlet opposite here v^as dredged and chan- 
nels made for the convenience of fishermen. 
He brought Ben Sooy from Atlantic City to be 
master of " piscatory art," and every year men 
of prominence gathered here for that king of 
sports — tarpon fishing. It v^^as from here that 
the " shake the plum-tree " telegram v^as sent 
that struck such a far-carrying note in the poli- 
tics of those times. Fishing is still the great at- 
traction here. A few miles to the south of St. 
Lucie is one of the interesting foreign colonies 
occasionally to be found in Florida. A few 
years ago Count Malherbe, a French catholic, 
purchased land and was followed by a few of 
his compatriots, who settled and have a church 
of their own not far from Fort Pierce. 
-^From now, on the white sandy rolling ledge 
between the Indian river and the savannahs that 
extend to the north fork of the St. Lucie river, 
begins the cultivation of pineapples. This in- 
dustry has been a great success, and the land 
adapted to it extends southward, even to the 
Keys. The principal district from which the 
" pines " are shipped in great quantities lies 
from Fort Pierce to Palm Beach. The most 
specialized varieties are grown successfully, and 
large shipments of the ordinary varieties are 
marketed every year. There is no doubt of the 
success of this industry if the question of ship- 
ping rates and transportation can be adjusted, 
but as yet this is in an unsolved state. During 
the past year more progress has been made, and 
the future of the industry seems a great one. The 
plantations may be seen from both sides of the 



158 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA J 

railroad, usually open fields of the plants, some-, 
times stretches of the finer varieties covered witli 
lathes for protection from the sun and frosts. 
The season for ripened fruit begins in May, but 
occasional " sports " reach the tables of the 
winter visitors. This stretch of country has 
the distinction of being the only part of the 
United States adapted to pineapple culture. 
r^Fort Pierce (242 m., pop. 1,333) is an old set- 
tlement from Seminole times which has devel- 
oped into a thriving town. The long wharf, ex- 
tending to deep water in the Indian river, is the 
scene of great activity when the fishing boats 
come in. It is one of the most important fish and 
03^ster shipping points in Florida. In the nets of 
the fishermen are often found, among the hun- 
dreds of edible fish, strange specimens of both 
ocean and river denizens. A quaint sight at the 
wharfs are the flocks of pelicans diving for fish, 
which are attracted here by the waste from the 
fish houses. The Seminoles still come in from 
the Everglades to trade, and the townspeople 
are familiar with much of the Indian lore of a 
by-gone day. Fort Pierce is a center for both 
fishing and shooting, and points that are as yet 
practically undisturbed may easily be reached. 
The usual water excursions may be made, and 
the boat from St. Augustine to Palm Beach 
stops here. (Hotels, see list.) 

Below Fort Pierce the river front is again a 
most beautiful hammock fringe. Back of it lies 
the high sandy ridge, but sparsely forested, and 
back of that the savannahs, rivers and lakes, and • 
the Everglades. Such is the contour of the 
country in general from here to Miami. 







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O 



o 




n3 

C 

o 






ST. AUGUSTINE TO PALM BEACH 159 

White City (246 m.), Eldred (247 m.) and 
Ankona (249 m.) are small stations for the pine- 
apple growers. 

Walton (252 m.) is a small settlement with a 
fishing industry. It has agricultural lands de- 
veloping between it and the St. Lucie river, and 
is in the midst of thriving pineapple plantations. 
(Hotel, see list.) 

\^ Eden (254 m.) was the home from 1878, when 
he came there from Newark, N. J., until his 
death eight years ago, of Capt. Thomas Edward 
Richards, to whom belongs the distinction of hav- 
ing introduced commercial pineapple culture into 
the United States. He also engaged in the 
preparation of a " pineapple digestive cure." 
He made a considerable fortune for those early 
days, surrounded his house with a beautiful gar- 
den, kept open house, and was, in short, a fa- 
mous local character. 

Jensen (257 m.) is a small town that has been 
settled a long time. There were many colo- 
nists who came to Florida over twenty years ago 
and settled on the Indian river, and below on 
Hobe Sound. In most instances these were 
people of good families, and made a social life 
here that still gives an attraction to this region. 
Below Jensen is the Mid-Rivers Country Club, 
and near it the homes of many pineapple grow- 
ers. Col. R. M. Thompson's extensive planta- 
tions are here. The north fork of the St. Lucie 
river to the west is navigable, and the sailing 
and fishing ground in the Indian river from Jen- 
sen to Gilbert's Bar Inlet is frequented by many 
well-known sportsmen. 

Rio (259 m.) and Gosling (261 m.), and then 



i6o A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

the wide St. Lucie is crossed by a long viaduct 
with a draw. 

Stuart (261^ m.) is a sporting center, where 
the late President Cleveland came for his winter 
fishing. James W. Perkins has a cottage here; 
further down the St. Lucie river, near Sewall's 
Point, is the winter home of Lieut. Willoughby, 
where he has a wireless equipment, and has 
built a catamaran float from which his aero- 
planes are to make flights. The new town, 
Port Sewall (264 m.), at the inlet, will grow with 
the development of this country. The inlet has 
greater navigable possibilities than any other 
on the East Coast. 

Aberdeen (266 m.), Fruita (269 m.) and 
Gomez (272 m.) are all stations in the pineapple 
region. Hobe Sound (275 m.) on a high ridge, 
is among extensive plantations. The Jupiter 
river is crossed at Likely (278 m.), where there 
is a view to the left of the lighthouse, the 
weather, cable and wireless stations, then out to 
the inlet, and on the south side of the river, of 
the town of West Jupiter (238 m.). The waters 
are very attractive here, and the fishing good. 
\jjupiter Inlet, at one time of its history had what 
might be called a precarious existence. Wil- 
liams, in his book published in 1837, records that 
it had opened and closed again three times in 
seventy years. Readers of American fiction 
will remember Miss Constance Fenimore Wool- 
son's " Jupiter Lights " as among the first and 
still among the pleasantest novels about Flor- 
ida. 

The way now leads to the right of Lake Worth 
Creek, through an uninteresting country, pass- 



ST. AUGUSTINE TO PAL^I BEACH i6i 

ing Prairie (291 m.). Four miles further on the 
west bank of Lake Worth is Riviera, the former 
home of Lady Alicia Ross, in the early times at 
Lake Worth, before the railroads came. Then 
the site of the Royal Poinciana Gardens was 
Dimmock's Hotel. The place was then called 
Cocoanut Grove. The cactus gardens were then 
in existence. The Clarks had a winter home 
there, and the Inlet was open to big boats of 
seven feet draft. Pitt's Island, now Munyon's, 
was covered with wild acid grape-fruit, shad- 
docks and pomelos, and the shells on the beach 
were almost as fine as those at Cape Sable. The 
fishing in the fresh water lakes to the west was 
famous, as well as that at the inlet and outside. 
This brings us to West Palm Beach (299 m.) 
a thriving town upon the west bank of Lake 
Worth. It was laid out when the Florida East 
Coast Railway had reached this point. It was 
possibly originally intended to be no more than 
an adjunct to Palm Beach itself, to contain the 
various commercial enterprises which are ex- 
cluded from the east shore of the Lake, and to 
offer homes to the many people engaged in one 
way or another in ministering to the wants of the 
Beach's winter population. Such purposes it in- 
deed still serves, but it has long since outgrown 
any such merely supplementary position, and 
has its own commercial life and its own winter 
visitors. It has electric light, a public water 
supply and sewerage system. Along the shores 
of Lake Worth both north and south from the 
town are residences. The accessibility of the 
greater gayeties of Palm Beach is an asset of 
West Palm Beach, where life may be made more 



i62 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

tranquil and more inexpensive than at the great 
resort itself. The train crosses Lake Worth to 
Palm Beach. 

Palm Beach (300 m.). The train stops first 
at the Royal Poinciana Hotel station and then 
continues to The Breakers, the hotel on the 
oceanside. At both these hotels porters meet 
trains. In the height of the season it is advis- 
able to have engaged rooms in advance at Palm 
Beach, though the hotels are so large that ac- 
commodation of some sort is almost always to 
be secured. 

Palm Beach is indisputably the most famous 
of Florida resorts. It has an international 
celebrity, and it is almost safe to say that to have 
heard of Florida is to have heard of Palm Beach. 
It has the most colossal hotels, the most fash- 
ionable and pleasure-loving visitors, the gayest 
season, furthermore the most characteristic and 
individual note of any winter resort in America. 
In February and March, private cars which have 
brought parties from the North, East and West 
are always standing at the station at West Palm 
Beach, and yachts from distant ports are lying 
in the sheltered waters of Lake Worth. And 
crowded trains bring daily fresh hundreds to 
this winter capital. 

Palm Beach did not grow, it was made. Be- 
fore the arrival of the railway there were only 
a few houses along the lakeside and a small 
hotel. The rare opportunity was offered of 
creating, according to one plan completely car- 
ried out, a fit setting for idleness, luxury and 
fashion. Palm Beach is wholly for the winter 
visitor. So far as possible all the baser com- 




X 

<U 




Cocoanut Palms on Lake Worth 



PALM BEACH 163 

mercial activities have been banished across the 
lake. For a long time no vehicles of any kind 
v^ere admitted. Only rubber-tired M^heel-chairs 
skimmed silently over the smooth v^alks. Now 
motors have been admitted to one road. Yet 
the stillness of all these paths among flowers and 
palms is still amazing. The sands of the penin- 
sula have been enriched and planted with the 
loveliest tropical trees and blossoming plants. 
The transformation of the wilderness has been 
complete. Here between the sea and the Ever- 
glades, with lonely reaches of river and lagoon 
on either side, has been transported all the lux- 
ury of the great cities of the North. Here the 
northern visitor, one night out from New York 
only, is suddenly flung into a kind of dream of 
the tropics ; — even a guidebook may venture 
upon such language. The place has a queer, 
fantastic, artificial character. One may almost 
imagine that some magic calls it into existence 
on the day the hotels open, and that it vanishes 
into the sands by the blue sea an hour after the 
last black bell-boy has answered the last vis- 
itor's call. 

J Palm Beach being essentially a creation of the 
hotels, it is impossible to speak of it without 
speaking mostly of them. The Royal Poinciana 
which stands in beautiful gardens westwards 
towards Lake Worth, is said to be — and the 
statement goes unchallenged — the largest tour- 
ist hotel in the world. It is nearly a thousand 
feet long and is six stories high. It will accom- 
modate two thousand people. It is a prodigious 
edifice, the final development of the character- 
istically American idea of big hotels. It would 



i64 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

to the foreigner seem almost incredible. It is 
really like a city under one roof, with a corridor 
like a street of shops, innumerable public rooms, 
various restaurants, vast piazzas, all filled with a 
gay, idle, well-dressed cosmopolitan throng. 
People from every part of our country, inhab- 
itants of Europe doing the " grand tour " of 
America which is now so fashionable, rich 
Cubans on their way between Havana and New 
York, all these elements go to make up the pic- 
ture of the Palm Beach season. At its height 
a chair advantageously placed on the Poinciana 
veranda might almost be compared with one 
of those famous seats in front of the Cafe de la 
Paix in Paris, of which it is always said that if 
you were to sit there long enough you would 
see everyone in the world go by. Then to 
" point up " the picture, to heighten the odd 
exotic character of this ultra-civilization set so 
near the wilderness, occasionally a small group 
of Seminole Indians, in their odd costume — 
half barbaric, half ready made clothing store 
— will appear on the scene. Sometimes they 
have come to sell some handiwork, sometimes 
merely to observe — possibly to judge — the 
life of the race which was never able completely 
to expel them from the peninsula which they 
claimed as their own. 

From the Royal Poinciana a walk fringed with 
the most beautiful palms, for pedestrians, and a 
pine-bordered path for the wheel-chairs and for 
a peaceful horse-car, lead across the strip of 
land between lake and ocean to The Breakers. 
This hotel stands more bleakly on the sea, and 
is on a smaller and simpler scale than the Royal 



PALM BEACH 165 

Poinciana, though indeed it is large enough to 
look imposing in most places. Between the 
hour of the morning bath in the surf and of 
lunch there is music upon the veranda of The 
Breakers, on the sheltered side away from the 
sea, and " all the world " of Palm Beach drops 
in for a drink and a chat with friends. It is a 
pleasantly animated scene, and as near like that 
on the terrace of the casino of some foreign 
ville d'eaux as one can find in America. 

By The Breakers is the bathing establishment 
containing many bath-houses, and a large salt- 
water pool for use in the earlier part of the 
winter when some might consider the Atlantic 
too cold, or at any time when swimming in quiet 
water seems preferable to the surf. The beach 
in the late morning hours is a lively scene, with 
both bathers and spectators, at their ease upon 
the sands or in chairs with little awning hoods. 
The water is warm, even in mid-winter, and of 
a delicious quality. The beach is of fine sand, 
but it slopes very rapidly. Ample precautions 
are, however, taken for the safety of bathers 
and the daily plunge into the ocean is a part of 
the routine of Palm Beach life. 

On either side of The Breakers are cottages 
belonging to the hotel, which may be taken fur- 
nished and thus allow a mixture of privacy and 
gayety to those who wish to stay the winter 
through. 

The Gulf Stream flows near the coast here. 
And the shipping which is to pass through the 
Strait of Florida towards Havana and the Gulf 
of Mexico begins to converge here. On the 
coast farther north the ships pass far out to sea, 



i66 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

and days may go by without a sail being sighted ; 
here at Palm Beach the water view is a much 
more animated one. 

To the south of the avenues between the 
hotels lies the golf course (i8 holes) and club 
house. The course is flat, a condition nature 
imposes here, and could not be described as 
" sporty." But the mild kind of play it offers 
is quite to the taste of Palm Beach visitors, and 
the green is well covered daily with white- 
flanneled contestants. 

There are excellent tennis courts and often 
excellent play upon them. At any rate laziness 
and not lack of opportunity must be the excuse 
of those who do not take physical exercise. 

The wheel chair — the " afromobile " — the 
only vehicle in use at Palm Beach, is an easy 
chair of wicker made single or double, set on 
bicycle wheels and propelled bicycle-fashion by a 
colored boy seated behind. It is silent and ordi- 
narily swift. It is used for all trips to and fro and 
even for excursions in the environs where smooth 
" trails " are provided for it. The charge is $i.oo 
an hour (inquiry for the tariff may be made at 
wheel-chair offices). The expenses of chairs may 
mount up to a considerable sum, unless care 
is exercised, but Palm Beach, like most famous 
resorts of its kind, does not put one in a mood 
of ardent economy, and the wheel chair is a 
pleasant and amusingly characteristic means of 
locomotion. Especially at night, when their 
lights dart to and fro like fire-flies and they carry 
pretty women beautifully dressed to dinners or 
to dances, are they agreeable sights. By day a 
favorite wheel chair excursion is the Jungle 



PALM BEACH 167 

Trail, a three-mile track through tangled vege- 
tation such as once covered the site of Palm 
Beach hotels and gardens, a piquant contrast of 
wild nature after one has lounged in scenes of 
a highly cultivated beauty. 

It is on the Lake Worth side that the beauty 
of Palm Beach becomes more luxuriant and full 
blown. From the Royal Poinciana towards the 
water stretches an admirable garden, full of 
blooming flowers, and, later than most visitors 
stay, aflame with the scarlet flowers of the 
Poinciana tree. In this garden there is an open 
air service of tea and other refreshments and 
parties, somewhat sentimentally termed in the 
newspapers " twilight teas," are a favorite form 
of entertainment. 

On the lake front is the pier at which numer- 
ous launches and motor boats land. Boating — 
in such craft — is a favorite amusement here, 
and the motor boat races usually held in early 
March are a really exciting event. 

A little to the south in charming gardens lies 
Whitehall, the red brick colonial residence of 
Mr. H. M. Flagler, to whose personal enterprise, 
initiative and money, the whole East Coast is 
so enormously indebted. 

Farther along is a long curved walk by a wall 
protecting it from the lake. This is bordered 
with cocoanut trees, now native here, but orig- 
inally started from nuts washed ashore in 1879 
from the wreck of a Spanish brig " La Prov- 
idencia." The shore is lined with private resi- 
dences in gardens which are notable. In fact 
the gardens in Palm Beach are by far the best 
in Florida. Climate, intelligent cultivation and 



168 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

ample money for securing trees and plants and 
experimenting- with them have combined to 
make Palm Beach horticulture particularly suc- 
cessful. Florida residents in other parts are 
only too apt to be contented with the roses and 
the few flowers which grow so well with not 
much done for them except a mere scratching 
of the soil, and Florida gardens are often ragged 
and ill-kept though very beautiful. At the 
Craigin place, a half hour's walk (less in wheeled 
chair) north of Palm Beach the garden may be 
visited, for which courteous permission of the 
owner the public can never be too grateful. 
Here can be seen all that is possible in sub-trop- 
ical gardening, and the resultant lovely riot of 
flower and leaf is a revelation to northerners and 
to Floridians themselves. 

A little to the north of the hotels on the edge 
of Lake Worth is the pretty, low, rambling 
building of the Beach Club. Membership in 
this may be obtained for short periods by non- 
residents of Florida who have the necessary in- 
troductions. The restaurant is a famous one. 
There are numerous experts in good eating who 
call it the best in America. Lunch on the flower- 
embowered veranda and dinner in the pleasant 
indoor room are the height of fashion in Palm 
Beach, and the club during the short time it is 
kept open is gay in the manner of a Continen- 
tal casino, games and amusements being pro- 
vided as at foreign winter resorts on the Medi- 
terranean. The club is under the direction of 
the Messrs. Bradley, by whom, it is interesting 
to note, was furnished in all good faith the back- 
ing for several of Dr. Cook's polar expeditions. 




CQ 










U 



PALM BEACH TO MIAMI 169 

At the back of the Royal Poinciana is a build- 
ing called the Casino, where in the evening there 
is music, usually by colored musicians, and 
where a pleasant half hour or more may often 
be spent. 

Excursions 

Motor trips may be made on the mainland, a 
hard read extending now to Miami and even 
beyond. A favorite day's trip is by motor to 
Fort Lauderdale where lunch is taken, a trip 
on the New River made and the return effected 
in time for dinner at Palm Beach. (For this 
see under Fort Lauderdale.) 

Ill — Palm Beach to Miami 
(66 m., 2I hrs.) 

Leaving West Palm Beach, there is a journey 
of 66 miles (2J hours) to Miami. The railway 
passes, at first along the west shore of Lake 
Worth and glimpses of it can be seen througli 
the pine trees and across the white sands. 

At Lantana (308 m.) the lower end of the lake 
is reached. The way has been past small farms 
and gardens. The spring, beginning in late De- 
cember, makes the whole country green and rest- 
ful, and the tourist finds interesting new flora 
constantly attracting him as he journeys farther 
south. At Lantana, there are pineapple planta- 
tions, and extensive vegetable gardens begin. 
The oysters from near there, in Lake Worth, 
are considered to be the best in flavor on the 
whole East Coast. There is good shooting and 
fishing, and guides can be obtained. Hotel ac- 



170 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

commodations. Lantana House, M. B. Lyman. 
Rates, $2 daily; $12 weekly. 

Hypoluxo (309 m.). The citrus fruits and 
pineapples grown to such perfection here, are 
shipped in great quantities during the season. 
There is only a small station and no hotel ac- 
commodations, but a visit to the island in Lake 
Worth opposite the settlement, is interesting. 
The citrus groves there are justly famous for 
their fruit, and there are some bits of natural 
hammock land where the botanist from the more 
temperate North can find a riot of vegetation 
of the sub-tropics. The lake ends just beyond 
here, and the navigable drainage canal begins. 
The railway runs along the ridge made by the 
sublying canal. On the one side, stretches away 
the pine lands toward the Everglades; on the 
other are muck and humus lands, extending to 
the next reef of sublying coral which forms the 
ocean shoreline. Through these muck lands, the 
canal runs southward , a wealth of vegetable 
gardens thriving here. 

At Boynton (312 m.) these gardens extend in 
every direction, and their marketing season be- 
ing from December until June, a busy sight 
meets the tourist's eye. The little town is sit- 
uated about a mile from the ocean, and the road 
to the beach is bordered by gardens. As far 
as the canal, there are hedges of bananas. On 
reaching it, oleander trees are seen lining the 
canal on both sides, and marking the entrance to 
the hotel grounds. There are fish houses to the 
north of the road, where large catches of Span- 
ish mackerel are packed for the Northern mar- 
ket This road to the Boynton Hotel is shaded 



PALM BEACH TO MIAMI 171 

by vigorous cocoanut trees. It stretches away, 
a white ribbon, between green lengths of Ber- 
muda grass — bordered by the leaning tree 
trunks, and a hedge of glowing hibiscus. Over 
all wave the long leaves of the cocoanut trees, 
almost meeting in graceful arches across the 
way. The road ends at the ocean ridge, which 
is 25 feet above the beach. The hotel (Boynton 
Hotel, $2.50 and up daily, $14 to $18 weekly, 
A. R. Parker, proprietor) is situated here in the 
midst of a cocoanut grove, the leaves of the 
trees sweeping against the house. The view 
here of the Atlantic is unexcelled. The wonder- 
ful cloud effects, the wide sweep of the shore 
curving to the northward and ending in a point 
accented by cocoanut trees, make a " seascape," 
of which one never tires. There are fish camps, 
both north and south of the hotel, where the 
native fishermen work for the market. They 
measure their catches in tons, and the pile of 
shining silver mackerel on the golden beach is 
an unforgettable sight. Their boats pass the 
hotel daily beyond the surf line. The south- 
ward bound ocean steamers come in so near the 
beach, to avoid the Gulf Stream's current, that 
their names can often be read. The bathing 
here is safe and with no undertow. There are 
little bars out from the shore that are shifted 
by a high wind, and it is interesting to note the 
changes in sea topography. The water is clear, 
and there is always a good surf. Its tempera- 
ture averages ']2 degrees. In fact, for swim- 
ming and bathing, this is the best beach stretch 
on the whole Florida East Coast. The hotel is 
particularly good of its class. Its big verandas, 



172 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

large lounge, and excellent cuisine make it at- 
tractive and comfortable. Fishing with the mar- 
ket anglers is an experience, and the fresh water 
fishing and shooting are also good. Guides 
from the hotel. There is a herd of Jersey cows, 
and an extensive garden belonging to the hotel. 

The drinking water is of especially good 
quality. It is obtained from a driven well, and 
upon analysis it is shown to contain elements 
that are of great benefit in kidney disease. It 
is tasteless and agreeable as well as wholesome. 
Hotels : Hotel Boynton (as above) ; Hotel Vera 
(very simple). Mrs. W. H. Funck. $2 daily. 

Delray (317 m.). The railway passes through 
a sandy country. The scrub oak and wild rose- 
mary and Indian arrowroot show dark rich 
greenery against the pure white sand. Some 
pineapple plantations are to be seen. This is 
a most thriving little settlement. The colony 
began with people from Michigan, many of them 
Germans. Some of the farmers in the neighbor- 
hood are of the sect of Seventh Day Baptists, 
and wear the garb of their religion. Their in- 
tensive farming methods have contributed much 
to the prosperity of this part of the country. 
There are nearly a thousand acres of " pines " 
in the neighborhood, and many acres of gardens. 
There is a canning factory to take care of sur- 
plus production of tomatoes and pineapples. All 
kinds of green vegetables are grown and shipped 
during the winter to the markets north. Among 
these are tomatoes, egg plant, peppers, cauli- 
flowers, green beans, cabbages, cucumbers, Ber- 
muda onions, okra, summer squash, potatoes, 
and lettuce. Delray is eminently a settler's 



PALM BEACH TO MIAMI 173 

town. There is a population approaching 1,000, 
good schools and churches. It is located close 
to the ocean. The bungalows and residences 
^of the residents are surrounded by gardens and 
groves. Roses abound, and the lantana and cro- 
cuses grow luxuriously. There is shooting, and 
salt and fresh water fishing; guides, boats and 
dogs to be had at reasonable prices. The canal 
southward passes the town. There is communi- 
cation with it by a good road. Hotels : Ocean 
View, Mr. Bennett, proprietor. $1 daily; spe- 
cial weekly; Sterling House: H. J. Sterling, 
proprietor. $2 daily; $9 weekly. 

To Yamato (321 m.) the way is still along 
the canal ridge. This is a Japanese settlement, 
an experiment in Occidental colonization. The 
industry of the colonists and their capacity for 
detailed work, has made them successful. The 
founder has the work well under way and the 
settlers are growing vegetables and pineapples 
like their American neighbors. The experiment 
bids fair to be successful. There are about fifty 
colonists. In addition to growing American 
vegetables, they are also cultivating Japanese 
plants with good success. There is no hotel 
here. 

Bocaratone, " Rats Mouth " (325 m.) Here 
the railway affords glimpses of savannahs and 
trees and islands rising out of the saw-grass that 
mark the Everglades topography. A stream 
from them is crossed here. There are no tour- 
ist accommodations. 

Just before coming to Deerfield (327 m.) the 
Hillsboro river is crossed, a stream of some size. 
Then comes Pompano (333 m.) and Colohatchee 



174 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

(338 m.). The north and south forks of Middle 
river are crossed. The country then is pineland, 
and occasionally the home of a settler is seen. 
There is much fertile land in the neighborhood, 
and colonists are constantly making homes. 
Every year adds to these, and the increasing 
population is best realized as the railway ap- 
proaches — 

Fort Lauderdale (341 m.). This point was 
the site of a fort during the Seminole War, and 
it has been and is to the present day a trading 
post for the Indians. It was the_. half-way sta- 
tion on the old stage line from Cantana City at 
the head of Biscayne Bay, whose"~v^eekly sched- 
uled wagon was the only public conveyance be- 
tween these two points. Then there was a shed 
for the trader and a " blue gingham house " for 
the traveler. Quail were shot with a pistol by the 
drivers, and the Seminoles never failed to ap- 
pear hungrily at luncheon time as the wayside 
banquet was spread for man and mules. The 
gait of progression was a walk, and two days 
were spent in doing the 60 miles journey from 
Lake Worth to Biscayne Bay! This was the 
condition until 1896. The coming of the rail- 
way changed it all. Fort Lauderdale is now a 
prosperous town. At least two miles before its 
station is reached, through the pine trees is 
seen the gleam of the new yellow pine houses, 
the upturned garden soil, and rows of citrus 
trees. Along the white rock roads motor cars 
flash, teams and wagons plod, and the train 
stops in the midst of the bustle and noise of a 
new city. The opening of the Everglade lands 
by the Drainage Systems has caused settlers to 



PALM BEACH TO MIAMI 175 

come by the hundreds. While most of these 
are farmers, many remain in the town. 

The town is prettily situated north of New 
river, though a residential quarter is beginning 
on the south side of the stream. The banks are 
high and the river deep. It is navigable to its 
mouth where it flows into the sea at New River 
Inlet. The river forks above the town, and the 
main drainage canal continues up the river 
toward the head of the North Fork in the Ever- 
glades. Vegetable gardening and tropical fruit- 
growing are the industries in the surrounding 
country. The hard surfaced road from Palm 
Beach to Miami passes through the town, hav- 
ing followed the line of the railway here. The 
town is interesting to tourists because of the 
picturesque river and the canal trips into the 
Everglades, the neighboring semi-tropical ham- 
mocks, the strange flora in the woods, and for 
the shooting and fishing, and otter trapping. 

The Seminole Indians are frequent visitors, 
both here and at other stations on the railway 
from West Palm Beach to Miami. - Their homes 
are in the fastnesses of the Everglades lying in- 
land from Fort Pierce to Homestead. They ap- 
pear in a costume somewhat modified from that 
which they wore in days of savagery; occasion- 
ally there is seen the old time characteristic tur- 
ban. At Fort Lauderdale can be bought the im- 
plements for playing their ball game, a sort of 
racquet and deer skin ball, and the large wooden 
spoons used in stirring their porridge-like food 
" sofki." They also sell otter skins and deer 
skins tanned perfectly. Interesting excursions 
can be made with guides into the Everglades, 



176 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

and there is game to reward the most enthu- 
siastic sportsman. The river abounds in black 
bass. This is the best point in Florida to study 
the rapid change from primitive v^ilderness to 
tilled land — from a camp to a town of busy citi- 
zens. The railway crosses the river immedi- 
ately on leaving the station, and continues its 
southward way. Hotels. New River Hotel, 
$2.50 daily; special terms weekly; and smaller 
hotels and boarding places. Information about 
guides, boats, fishing and hunting at the New 
River Hotel. The railway still follows the high 
ground, but the ridge land is not so wide here, 
and the settlers have taken up large tracts of 
fertile soil, and for several years the farming in- 
terests have been gradually growing. The cli- 
mate is becoming warmer, and the trees and 
shrubs that are more really tropical appear. The 
woods abound in orchids, and cacti of many sorts 
are found in the jungles. 

Dania (346 m.) is a thriving town, one of the 
places from which the largest shipments of vege- 
tables and fruits are made. It has churches and 
schools, and good roads. This county, Dade, 
which was entered at Fort Lauderdale, has been 
first in the making of good roads, and these have 
been arteries of rapid development. To the 
tourist desiring to see the life of the country, 
a sojourn in Dania would be very interesting. 
As in all the towns of a thousand population 
and over, there is a good public water system. 
It is in touch with a hunting and fishing country. 
Deer, bear and wild cat, quail, doves, ducks and 
wild turkeys are all to be found in the neighbor- 
hood. Hotels. West Hotel, $2 daily; special 



PALM BEACH TO MIAMI 177 

terms weekly. Information about guides, etc. 

Hallandale (351 m.) is a station for the con- 
venience of the surrounding settlers only, and 
cars of tomatoes, celery, peppers and egg plant 
leave here during the winter months. The rail- 
way affords only the same vista, with occasional 
wider views of the Everglade topography, 
between here and 

Ojus (353 m.). Here Snake Creek is crossed. 
The Indian name of this station signifying 
" plenty " tells its own story of luxurious vege- 
tation. Fulford (355 m.) is the next station to 
which the settler comes to ship his produce, and 
is little more than a hamlet. Just beyond Arch 
Creek is crossed, and at Little Arch Creek is 
Arch Creek (357 m.), a station of some impor- 
tance as a shipping point. There is a natural 
bridge in the coral rock here that is most pic- 
turesque, and it is a point of destination for 
many excursions both by water and land from 
Miami. The ferns and bracken, the palmettoes 
and palms, the agave and sisal, bayonet, and 
beautiful deciduous forest trees, make a scene of 
great natural beauty. West from here in the 
pine hammock were better cleared spaces where 
the Seminoles had, for many years, grown Indian 
corn. At the time of its ripening in June they 
held the festival of the green corn dances. To 
the geologist the rock formation at Arch Creek 
is very interesting. 

From Arch Creek to Biscayne (359 m.) the 
head of Biscayne Bay is of no greater interest, 
being the same general country, until the bottom 
lands of Little River (361 m.) are reached. 
Here the soil is particularly good, being a rich 



178 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

loam like the most fertile farming lands in the 
north, and the vegetable and fruit growers are 
found prospering. The country is growing rap- 
idly, and this is one of the points of first rank 
as a shipping center. The section tributary to 
it is the well-known Humbuggus country. Cit- 
rus culture is most successful. Sapadillos, 
mangoes and avocado pears are beginning to be 
important factors in a commercial way. There 
are well-kept country homes, with pleasure gar- 
dens full of plants and shrubs that attract be- 
cause of their novelty and beauty. The ride 
from Miami is very short, and a stop is often 
made here on the way to Arch Creek. Hotels: 
Douthett House, $2 daily; $10 weekly. The 
shores of Biscayne Bay can be seen from the 
railway, glimpsing through the trees. 

Lemon City (362 m.) has many attractive resi- 
dences, and winter tourists have homes there. 
Some of these are large and artistic villas, and 
all have beautiful gardens. The old stage route 
ended here, and the traveler, before the railroad 
was built, found himself at the end of all road 
communication with points farther south. The 
journey by land, over the sharp coral rock, a 
trackless way, toward the settlements below, 
was not comfortable. The water route was per- 
fect and was alone used. The little town is en- 
tirely a residence one now, and from here to 
Miami the country is well settled by winter vis- 
itors and an occasional farmer. 

Buena Vista (362 m.) has many well-kept 
places and orchards of citrus fruits, avocados, 
mangoes, sapadillos (" dillies ") and fields of 
papayas and bananas. All the way down the 



h 



PALM BEACH TO MIAMI 179 

coast grow loquats and Japanese persimmons. 
Limes and lemons would seem with the other 
citrus fruits to be indigenous were it not known 
that the Spaniards introduced them all. This 
little village is on the bay, charmingly situated. 
There is a tiny Anglican Church, primitively 
but artistically built. The resident rector is 
Rev. Bernard Clarke. At Buena Vista Mrs. 
Emma W. Chapin has built an Italian villa, a 
style of architecture admirably suited to the cli- 
mate. The hotel is a cottage one, *' Courley 
House," kept by Mrs. Ida Courley. $2 daily; 
special weekly. It has an acre of attractive 
grounds about it. The rooms are large and airy, 
the water of great excellence. The shore of Bis- 
cayne Bay begins at Lemon City to have a suc- 
cession of residences, in front of each of which 
is a wharf, and a boat, varying from a skimming 
dish or Newport Cat. to a motor house-boat big 
enough to be a floating home. Across the bay 
in the lagoons of the peninsula are the haunts 
of the real crocodile. There exist in Florida not 
only the alligator but also, in this southernmost 
part, the crocodile. The way from here is short 
and through the usual outlying scattered homes 
of the suburbs of a city until Miami is reached. 
\ Miami (366 m., pop. 5,471), is the most south- 
erly city on the mainland in the United States. 
Its beautiful location and perfect climate and 
great healthfulness make it a place of unsur- 
passed interest to the tourist, the health seeker 
and the settler. It is situated at the mouth of 
the Miami river where it flows into Biscayne 
Bay. The river's channel is deep and it flows 
between banks of coral rock. The bay stretches 



i8o A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

away in front of the town to its girdle of keys 
on the east, a sheet of lovely water, unsurpassed 
as a pleasure ground. The palatial Royal Palm 
Hotel with its tropic garden surrounding, the 
well-built city with its attractive villas and 
wealth of luxuriant trees, shrubs and flowers, 
and its thriving business quarter, its interesting 
historical points, its well-built roads stretching 
away in every direction, its many excursions by 
land and by water, its sports, its social life 
centering around the great hotel, its prominence 
in American yachting life, and above all its per- 
fect winter climate attract thousands of visitors 
each year, in constantly growing numbers. 

It is well called the Magic City. Until the 
coming of the East Coast Railroad, there had 
been only the homes of a few scattered settlers. 
On the north side of the river was Fort Dallas, 
a most interesting relic of the days of the Sem- 
inole War, a well-built structure of native rock, 
which was fort, dwelling house, and trading 
post. (It is still preserved and occupied, being 
in the grounds of the Seminole Club.) It was 
surrounded by virgin hammock — an isolated, 
beautiful spot. The title to this and the sur- 
rounding land was held by Mrs. Tuttle, and it 
was from her that the Florida East Coast Rail- 
road bought the land for their town, and planned 
the city that has since grown. On the south 
bank of the river lived the Brickells. They re- 
fused to sell their land, a beautiful tract extend- 
ing for miles down the bay shore and also along 
the river front, directly across from the site of 
the Royal Palm Hotel. Since then, they have 
built a succession of villas with bay shore gar- 



^ 



o 



MIAMI i8i 

dens, renting for from $i,ooo to $2,000 for the sea- 
son, and the long water front on the south of 
the river is a succession of boat works and ma- 
rine ways, all on land the enhanced property of 
the family. The original owner is buried in the 
garden of the villa they still occupy. The his- 
tory of adventure and pioneer life around the 
mouth of and up the Miami river, and over the 
waters of the bay to the keys opposite, is most 
interesting, legend and truth blending in the 
story. Out of touch with all the world except 
their Indian neighbors, who came to them from 
the Everglades by way of the river, their life 
with its tropic land environment and fascinating 
sea lore was like that on the islands of the South 
Seas, with a little wrecking as an exciting di- 
version, and Indian trading and starchmaking 
from Indian arrowroot by way of occupation. 
The coming of the railway disturbed these 
people, and they discouraged it both actively and 
passively. But there are still some of them left 
in and about Miami, and the tourist will find 
their tales of other days extremely fascinating. 
-^ To this primitive wilderness the coming of the 
railway camps was the signal for settlers to 
gather. In the spring of 1896 the railway was 
completed, and in July of the same year Miami 
was incorporated as a city, never having passed 
through any preliminary stages of village or 
town organization. Its growth has been phe- 
nomenal. It is unquestionably one of the most 
desirable winter resorts in America. 

The railway station is not commensurate in 
accommodations with the town's importance, 
but a new one is in contemplation. Cabs and 



i82 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

other vehicles in plenty convey the arriving pas- 
sengers to their destinations (fare 25 cents; by 
the hour $1.00). 

— - The drive from the station through the town 
is most interesting. The streets are hard sur- 
faced coral rocks, white and clean. (The glare 
from the white streets makes amber or blue 
glasses comfortable.) Each side of the way are 
villas and gardens. New and rare trees attract 
the visitor's eye; the royal ponciana with its 
feathery mimosa-like leaves (unfortunately its 
burden of gorgeous scarlet stars do not cover 
the tree until late spring or summer) and the 
tall, slender Australian pines, whose cool green 
foliage and austere uplifted lines recall Heine's 
fir and palms, longing for each other from Nor- 
way to Egypt — only here is the desire of the one 
for the other satisfied. 

The social life of Miami centers about the 
Royal Palm Hotel, the cottages of the winter 
residents and the Biscayne Bay Yacht Club. 
The Royal Palm is situated on the point where 
the river and bay meet. Its longest extent is 
east and west. It is surrounded on three sides 
by spacious verandas; by a peculiar construc- 
tion these verandas are carried around the house 
at a distance from the house itself — they are 
really more like a covered esplanade. To the 
south, the gardens, the river with its constantly 
changing scene about the dock, the cocoanuts 
on Brickell's Point opposite silhouetted against 
the sky; to the east the expanse of the bay to 
the keys beyond, and a glimmer of the ocean 
through the cuts, passing boats at all times, and 
stately white yachts lying at their moorings. 



MIAMI 183 

To the north are the tennis courts and the base- 
ball grounds, the vista through the avenue of ap- 
proach ; and to the left the casino and swim- 
ming pool hidden in the mass of greenery of the 
garden. The brick paved drive circles around 
in the foreground. The veranda at tlie main door 
is a favorite place at the time of the arrival of 
people from the trains and steamboats. The 
hotel has an excellent orchestra. Concerts are 
given at the dinner hour, and in the evening in 
the rotunda and ballroom. During the season, 
entertainments of all kinds succeed each other, 
concerts, exhibits of art needlework, pictures and 
rugs, cake walks, costume balls, dances and re- 
ceptions. There are jeweler's, dressmaker's and 
milliner's shops in the hotel itself, as well as tele- 
graph, railroad and steamship ticket offices for 
the convenience of guests. 

Descending from the rotunda, the grillroom is 
reached. Here luncheons, dinners, and tea 
parties are given. There would seem always to 
be some reason for a " grill meeting." 

The roof is a favorite place for guests to give 
teas, and the panoramic view from there is one 
of great interest. 

Out of doors at the left of the main north en- 
trance is the casino and swimming pool, a place 
of great attraction, open to the general public 
free. Bathing suit 25 cents. Admission dur- 
ing the concert hour, 10 cents. The pool is 
kept supplied with fresh sea water. The casino 
is admirably managed by Percy F. Cavill. He 
was the world's champion swimmer and has 
many records, the Cavill stroke being his inven- 
tion. Naturally swimming is a leading feat- 



i84 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

lire in Miami life. Each morning from ii until 
12 an orchestra plays, the pool is full of swim- 
mers, and the scene is a very gay one. There 
is no pool in America where there is so much 
good swimming and so much spectacular water 
sport takes place. Every week there is an 
evening of water sports (admission 25 cents; 
reserved seats 50 cents), when the troupe of 
town boys trained by Mr. Cavill, and winter 
visitors, give interesting exhibitions of greased 
pole walking, racing, obstacle swimming, tub 
racing, tilting in canoes, and on barrel horses, 
with blunt padded lances and with bladders, div- 
ing from springboards, somersaulting dives, high 
diving, fancy swimming in street clothes and 
women's clothes, swimming with the feet tied, 
etc. Mr. Cavill is played as a tarpon by an ex- 
pert fisherman. He swims in imitation of vari- 
ous sea denizens. His work in imitation of a 
porpoise, in which he wears a string of electric 
lights from his head fastened down his back, so 
illuminating him under the water, is especially 
interesting, but like the tarpon playing very ex- 
hausting. Private swimming parties can be ar- 
ranged at night, and are specially delightful in 
the moonlight. 

Back of the casino are the conservatories of 
the hotel, full of rare and interesting plants. 
The south front of the hotel overlooks the gar- 
dens, which are the most interesting in South 
Florida, because of the wealth of sub-tropical 
flora. The trees "and shrubs are labeled plainly. 
A path through the gardens to the right leads to 
the grounds of the Seminole Club, where the 
same amusement may be found that is offered 



MIAMI 185 

to the guests in the salons of the casino at 
Monte Carlo. The main walk leads from the 
south portico of the hotel to the water front. 
The river along the hotel grounds in front is 
bulkheaded, and there are docks continuing out 
into the lake from the end of the walk thus 
formed. It is here the fishing life finds its 
center. There is a competent dock master in 
charge. The cruising charter boats lay here 
from one end of the dock to the end of the bulk- 
headed walk, interspersed by private yachts 
(though most of the latter anchor in the open 
bay's roadstead near the Biscayne Bay Yacht 
Club). The dock master has a fleet of canoes 
and sailing dories for hire. The charter men 
have boats of all sizes, from a rowboat equipped 
with a man to row and an armchair in the stern 
for the fisherman at $5 a day, to a power house- 
boat or yacht at $100 a day. The most popular 
boat is one with accommodations for living on 
board, from 30 to 55 feet in length, chartering 
for $15 to $25, which price includes all expenses 
except the commissary. They are all fairly well 
equipped with tackle, but the fisherman with a 
lust for his sport usually has his own implements 
of trade. There is, in the morning, a succes- 
sion of departures — to the reef, up the bay, 
down the bay, for a day at Soldier Key, or a 
picnic at Cape Florida Light, or a few days at 
Lake Worth, or a run down to Coesers Creek, 
or on to the Bay of Florida, or even to the Ba- 
hamas and Cuba and around the West Coast. 
:j All is bustle and hurry until the last boat is 
gone. About half-past four they begin to re- 
turn, and the ^otel dock is the most interesting 



i86 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

place in Miami at that hour. Boat after boat 
comes in, generally well laden. Sometimes the 
rail is hung round with the silver kingfish, a con- 
tinuous row, covering every foot of space. The 
fishermen feel like heroes with banners dis- 
played, for the shining spoil gleaming silvery 
in the sun, flashes word of the victory as 
^ the boats come chugging up the channel and 
warp in to the wharf. Sometimes the catch in- 
cludes monsters of the deep. 

There is a record of catches kept, especially of 
the tarpon. This king of game fish, coming 
from no one knows where, and disappearing into 
the unknown seas, arrives earlier in Biscayne 
Bay than on the West Coast. His fame as a 
worthy foe there has been great for many years 
— but the fisherman must stay well into the 
spring to have the sport of a battle with him 
assured. It is only because the East Coast 
waters have been explored fully later that their 
fame is not greater. In the season of 1910 and 
191 1 the upper part of Biscayne Bay was the 
scene of many fine battles during the full swing 
of the season in February and March, and at 
Long Key the sport was also good in March. 
To capture this king of all the herring is the 
acme of the fisherman's desire. The boats be- 
gin to go out as soon as word is brought that 
the first tarpon is playing. 

The Manse and Presbyterian Church, Mr. 
Flagler's gift to the congregation, are at the right 
of the avenue of Australian pines that leads to 
the hotel. 

Directly opposite the northwest corner of the 
Hotel grounds is Hotel Halcyon, an attractive 



MIAMI 187 

building of hative Miami rock gleaming white 
in the sunshine, with wide verandas east and 
south. It is a modern structure five stories 
high. 

There are two principal business streets in 
Miami, Avenue D and 12th Street. The new 
post office is at Avenue C and nth Street. 
Northward on Avenue D the business houses 
continue for several blocks. 12th Street has the 
majority of the shops. It is unfortunate, how- 
ever, that there should be so thickly interspersed 
among them the real estate offices. Many of 
these are legitimate business offices. Indeed 
most of them are, but the prospectus tells in 
such glowing terms, what is the best that can 
be achieved in these new countries, that the 
visitor sometimes forgets to turn over the bright 
shield and read the leaden words of disappointed 
hopes and sanguine plans unrealized, that are 
written on its obverse side. For climate and 
sport and winter joys, for homes that can be 
maintained by the earned and saved increment 
of the owner, Miami and all of south Florida is 
peerless, but the settler and farmer should not 
invest his money without much careful fore- 
thought. There is plenty of good land but more 
that is worthless. 

Between Avenue C and the bay, and 12th 
Street and the railroad, and on the south side of 
the river are many charming villas. They are 
surrounded by flowers and plants that are rare 
and beautiful. Hedges of croton, of lantana, 
and of flaming hibiscus mark the boundaries of 
the gardens. Roses and poinsetta, glorious 
bougainvilla, plots of annuals grow lustily in this 



i88 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

perfect dime. Palms of all sorts) and plants 
with glossy foliage, surround the houses. There 
is every sort of habitation from the palmetto 
thatched hut in the suburbs, the single-roomed 
lumber shed, the tiny cottage, to the bungalow 
of every size and the larger cottages and villas. 
Concrete and stone houses are the most suitable 
to the climate. 

The Boulevard which extends along the bay 
front on the north side is a most attractive street. 
It begins at the railway which ends here op- 
posite the wharves of the P. & O. Steamship Co. 
To the north of these wharves is the office of the 
Collector of Customs, and the Florida East Coast 
Railroad Hospital. The Boulevard runs south, 
ending at the Royal Palm Grounds. In front of 
the residences after passing 7th Street there are 
many pretty little boat landings built out in the 
bay connected with the shore by causeways or 
piers. Some of these landing places have houses 
open at the sides built upon them, and form 
most comfortable points in which their owners 
can while away an hour. At nth Street is the 
Biscayne Bay Yacht Club, a structure well fitted 
for its purpose and picturesquely situated in the 
bay. About it are always anchored many yachts. 
Life here is very gay, and at no Florida or South- 
ern club is such a list of cosmopolitan members, 
or of yachts as well known. 

At the foot of I2th Street is a town wharf, from 
which there is a ferry to the beach, where there is 
excellent sea bathing on the keys opposite. There 
too are many charter boats at a price a little less 
than that paid at the Royal Palm Dock. The 
exhibit of catches on the return of the fishermen 



MIAMI 189 

daily Is very interesting. Boats leave from here 
on regular schedules for the trip to the Ever- 
glades, to an observatory, passing Alligator Joe's 
Farm on the way and the famous Lawrence and 
other groves ; for the trip to old Florida Light, a 
disused lighthouse, but in a very interesting sit- 
uation on Cape Florida; and for an excursion up 
and down the bay. 

Next to the town wharf is the Fair building 
where a county fair is held. There are frequent 
entertainments here. The " Miami Herald " has 
notices of these and other amusements daily. 

From the mouth of the river along the south 
shore are boat works, marine ways, and oil and 
ship wharves. To the largest wharf come the 
schooners and tramp steamers from Jacksonville, 
the Bahamas, Key West, the Gulf ports, Cuba, 
and an occasional craft from almost unknown 
ports. 

The Clubs are : The Miami, Women's, French, 
Musical, and Biscayne Bay Yacht Club. A 
theater where a stock company give standard 
plays with an occasional greater attraction, mo- 
tion pictures, baseball games, fairs, etc., afford 
amusement for the visitor. The street scenes 
themselves are interesting. Shells, palm hats, 
mats, baskets and fans are for sale. At the fruit 
shops, all kinds of early vegetables are found, and 
strawberries, mulberries, Jamaica sorrel, loquats, 
alligator pears, sapadillos (the zapote of Mexico), 
Japanese persimmons, papayas, pineapples, lem- 
ons, limes, oranges from the kumquot to the 
King, and grape fruit of endless variety, bananas 
of every sort from the dainty cavendish of only 
a few inches in length to the horse bananas often 



190 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

measuring a foot, plantains, etc. In fact, Miami 
is the distributing point for the many fruits and 
early vegetables grown in the neighborhood. 

In addition to the excursions by water, there 
are sight-seeing automobiles which make trips 
to points of special interest near Miami. These 
include visits to orange groves, to the Ever- 
glades, to Walden farms, to the Government Ag- 
ricultural Station, and to various other interest- 
ing places and near-by towns. 

The falls of the Miami at the head of naviga- 
tion in the river are interesting. The golf links, 
nine holes, can be reached by boat up the Miami, 
or by an automobile starting from the Royal 
Palm daily, fare lo cts. The Cuts opposite Mi- 
ami — Norris, Bear and Government Cut — and 
the House of Refuge, are reached by water. 
(See daily papers for time tables, fares, etc.) 



IV — Miami to Key West 

(156 m.) 

Leaving Miami, the part of the Florida East 
Coast Railroad known as the Extension begins. 
The train crosses the Miami river to South-Side 
(367 m.), and follows the high coral ridge, 
though tall pine trees, past hammocks of oak and 
tropical hard-wood trees, to Cocoanut Grove 
(371 m., pop. 200). This is a little hamlet sit- 
uated on Biscayne Bay. It is reached by a hard- 
surfaced road from Miami, through Homestead. 
It has rural mail delivery, several stores, and a 
guava jelly factory, and consists of a collection 
of homes, schools and churches, and two club- 




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MIAMI TO KEY WEST 191 

houses. The railroad station is half a mile from 
the village. The old town was located along the 
water front, but houses have sprung up along 
the hard road leading south, so that the settle- 
ment extends a mile back into the pine woods. 
The bay front is a succession of villas. The 
Cocoanut Grove Woman's Club has its club- 
house here also. Where the road turns from the 
bay front inland stands the old Peacock Inn, re- 
built and transformed into the Lake Placid 
School for Boys. A path, open only to residents 
of the village and their guests, leads along the 
shore, beginning here. After leaving the school 
grounds, it passes through a wealth of oleander 
trees, and several villas are seen at the west. 
Towards the shore is a grove of vigorous cocoa- 
nut trees, giant bamboos and fine royal poinci- 
ana trees. The workshops of Commodore R. M. 
Monroe, the eminent boat-designer, are located 
here, and on the other side of the road is his villa. 
The Biscayne Bay Camp, a hotel, with a central 
dining-room, bamboo tea-houses and cottages at- 
tractively secluded among the oak trees, is on 
the left. To the right is the club-house of the 
Biscayne Bay Yacht Club, the most southern 
yacht club in the United States, and one whose 
history is co-incident with the earliest settle- 
ments here. The Yacht Club is the scene of 
regattas and public functions, and there are 
many members' boats coming and going during 
the season. Following the path the Adirondack 
School for Boys comes next, beautifully secluded 
on the coral ridge, with a fine avenue of royal 
palms leading to the water. This school, and 
also the Lake Placid School, has a course in 



192 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

seamanship in addition to the usual curriculum. 
The fleet of boats sailed by the students give 
the waters of the bay a picturesque appearance, 
and many large yachts belonging to the boys' 
parents visit the bay each year. 

Near the Adirondack School is the home of 
Mr. and Mrs. Kirk Munroe (Mary Barr Munroe), 
the former the friend and teacher, through his 
books, of all American boys, the latter the 
daughter of Amelia Barr, and a w^riter on eco- 
nomic and other social subjects. From here is 
a beautiful view of the bay, and in the man- 
groves near the shore is a peculiar spring of 
good water. Back from the house is an exten- 
sive orange grove which extends to the rock 
road leading from Cocoanut Grove south. Next 
is Minnetonka Inn, with its beautiful grounds. 

South Cocoanut Grove has many attractive 
homes, and there have been, and are, many well- 
known literary people there. Dr. John Gifford, 
Miss F. L. Nugent (Miss Florence Baldwin of 
Bryn Mawr), Homer St. Gaudens and Upton 
Sinclair are among these. All about Cocoanut 
Grove are orange and grape fruit groves. Toma- 
toes and peppers with other vegetables also grow 
luxuriantly, although there would not seem to 
be soil enough to nourish these plants, as they 
grow apparently from the bare coral rock. The 
edge of the Everglades is not very far away, 
to the west. 

Larkin (374 m.) is in the midst of rapidly 
developing country. Kendal (376 m.), Benson 
(379 m.) and Rockdale (380 m.) are small set- 
tlements. To the left at Kendal is seen Mr. 
Flagler's extensive model grove of citrus fruits 



MIAMI TO KEY WEST 193 

and pineapple plantations, all in the highest 
state of cultivation. 

Perrine (382 m.) is located on the grant of 
land, 24,000 acres, given to Dr. Henry Perrine 
in 1855. He was killed by the Indians, and the 
conditions of the grant w^ere never carried out. 
The F. E. C. Railroad arranged with the heirs, 
and the experiment station for tropical trees and 
plants, as specified by the government in the 
original grant, has been established. The 
country about is developing wonderfully. Vege- 
table gardens, avocado and mango orchards and 
citrus groves are seen on both sides of the rail- 
road. There was an old settlement near Per- 
rine, which has now grown to a little village with 
stores and a wharf at Cutler, on the bay front, 
a resort for fishermen. (Hotel, see list.) 

Goulds (386 m.), Black Point (307 m.), Prince- 
ton (388 m.), Naraja (389 m.), Modello (392 m.) 
and Homestead (394 m.) are all small stations 
which the growth of the country has made im- 
perative. It is hard to realize that until the 
coming of the railroad scattered settlers near 
Cocoanut Grove were the only permanent resi- 
dents. South of that last cluster of houses the 
country was practically unexplored. The sharp 
jagged coral rocks made land journeys extremely 
difficult, and there were no roads and no desti- 
nation for them. The Everglades lay inland, 
seemingly impenetrable, and there were waste 
stretches of saw-grass, with occasional islands. 
The shoal bay divided them from the sparsely in- 
habited keys to the eastward. Now there are 
good roads, houses, farms, and a little town at 
Homestead, with stores, a country club, and 



194 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

groves already bearing citrus and semi-tropical 
fruits. 

Detroit (396 m.), Woodall Siding (401 m.) 
and Everglade (408 m.) mark the end of the 
coral ridge and the coming of the Everglade to- 
pography to the very edge of the bay. 
-^ Here the real journey over the Keys and the 
passes between them begins. The surveys for 
the Extension were made in 1904, and work be- 
gan in 1905. The problems to be solved in 
building the railroad over the land and carrying 
it across the water were novel in engineering. 
The rushing tide-ways between the islands were 
fortunately at no point over twenty-five feet in 
depth. To make a stable construction in these 
swirling waters, to resist the severe summer 
tropical storms, and to have the roadway for 
trains thirty-five feet above sea-level were the 
difficult features of the work. The road has been 
for some 3^ears successfully operated to Knight's 
Key, and in 1912 was entirely completed from 
there to its terminus at Key West. 
. - It was not alone the building of the railroad 
itself that presented difficulties, but the question 
of transporting labor, supplies and water, and 
establishing camps for workmen, was a puzzling 
one. The laborers are cosmopolitan, being re- 
cruited from all nations, and from every rank 
of life. To govern and keep discipline in the 
camps has been a serious problem. The trans- 
portation of building material and supplies was 
an interesting feature. Huge piles of rock to 
be used on the roadbed, great girders of steel, 
and other structural requisites, came by flat-bot- 
tomed steamboats over the shoal waters between 



MIAMI TO KEY WEST 195 

the Keys and the mainland. Huge tanks of 
water on lighters supplied that first requisite for 
habitation — there is no potable water on the 
Keys. 

There were 14 miles of mainland to be trav- 
ersed, 44 miles on the Keys, and 52 miles across 
waterways and tidal swamps. Of these last, 
18 were of permanent bridge work across chan- 
nels between the ocean and waters of the bays 
and sounds. Four concrete viaducts were 
planned, all to rest on solid rock foundation — 
spanning the larger channels where the force 
of the current is greatest. One extending from 
Long Key to Conch Key, 10,500 feet, is a con- 
crete arched viaduct, 31 feet above sea-level. 
One from Knight's Key across the channel to 
Little Neck Key, 6f miles long, is concrete, with 
arches and five miles of pier and deck girders. 
One across Moses Channel, 7,800 feet, is of con- 
crete, with a draw. One across Bahia Honda 
Channel, 4,950 feet, is of concrete piers with 
truss spans. Here the water is very deep and 
the tide strong. One at Pine Key Channel, i,- 
400 feet, is of the same construction. One at 
Boca Chica, six miles from Key West, 2,610 feet, 
is an arch viaduct, in which the native coral-rock 
has been used in the concrete. 
^-The other openings between the Keys are 
crossed by embankments or filled-in trestles, 
with a drawbridge at Jewfish Creek, and one at 
Indian Key Pass between Upper and Lower 
Metacumbe Keys, aggregating 410 feet. In 
many cases these are built off the line centers 
in order that more permanent construction may 
take their places later. Marl is used in making 



196 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

the embankments. Beds of it are found under 
water, and mined by specially adapted proc- 
esses. The coral-rock blasted under water is 
ready for use at once. 

The waters to the west and north of the Keys 
are usually smooth, and shoal-draft steamers are 
used. On the outside, to the east and south, 
in the open ocean, strong tugs are in service. 
The severe summer and autumnal hurricanes 
have retarded the work, but each one has taught 
its lessons, and the railroad is approaching a 
successful completion. 

Leaving Everglade, the railroad turns to the 
south and leaves the mainland by a long cause- 
way of filled-in earth through marshland to Jew- 
fish (416 m.), where it crosses Jewfish Creek 
over a drawbridge. Yachts may be seen lying 
in the creek, north, on the lagoon, south. On 
crossing the drawbridge the railroad now begins 
its way over the Keys. These are a chain of 
coralline islands, extending 61 miles in a curved 
line from northeast to southwest, along the 
coast of Florida. They are separated from it by 
shoal waterways, varying in width from only a 
few feet to many miles. Their elevation above 
the sea is very slight. Their formation is oolitic 
limestone with sand and shell embedded in it, 
and very irregularly filled with pot-holes, de- 
pressions with ragged edges and worn fissures. 
There is very little soil on the islands, but from 
its composition of sand, disintegrated coral and 
humus, it is very rich in productive factors. The 
coast line of the keys is marked by long shoals, 
by coral rock, worn and fantastically eroded, by 
bandy l^^^aches and by mangrove thickets. Many 




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MIAMI TO KEY WEST 197 

of the keys are simply mangrove islands; others 
have central growths of jungle, tree and vine 
lushly growing, while others have jungle, open 
plantations, and even lakes or salt-lagoons inland. 

There are hundreds of these Keys, all seem- 
ingly upgrowth on an underlying reef. On the 
ocean side is a similar reef, submerged, between 
which is the waterway to Key West from Bis- 
cayne Bay (see p. 378). 

The vegetation on the Keys does not attain a 
height of any importance because of the summer 
storms and very high winds. The native trees 
are all tropical, and the jungles are of the great- 
est interest to the naturalist. There is romance 
and story attached to each wood that grows. 
True mahogany abounds, but not of sufficient 
size to be valuable commercially; dogwood and 
buttonwood ; gumbolimbo, which, when cut and 
used as fence posts takes root and grows into 
a line of vigorous trees. There are also poison- 
v^ood, with its alluring foliage and bright trunk; 
satinwood, fiddlewood, lancewood and ironwood ; 
bays, the wild parasite rubber tree, nakedwood, 
holly, torchwood ; lignum vitse and wild dillys 
and tamarinds, the castor-oil tree; cacti, from the 
tiny globe to the climbing ones that greet the 
eye from the very tree tops; vines, mosses and 
lichens of strange beauty; bamboo hiding away 
in the verdant fastnesses; wild vanilla and other 
orchids of eerie form and ghostly and ghoul-like 
habits; these are a few of the storied growths 
found everywhere. 

Then there are superb cocoanut groves that 
have been planted by the natives, though the 
trees are of no value commercially as the nuts 



198 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

are not rich enough in oil to be used. Grape 
fruit, oranges and limes, the sapadillo, custard 
apple, mammee, dead-men's lemons, tropic al- 
monds, papayas, guavas and tamarinds have all 
also been introduced and are found on many of 
the Keys. 

There are no roads on the Keys, owing to the 
rocky character of the land and the dense vege- 
tation ; an occasional trail only is found. The 
settlements are always at the water's edge. 
-^The beach yields many natural treasures to 
the " beach-comber " of shells in infinite variety 
of beauty and of every size and shape, — conch 
spawn with the tiny shells in the compartments 
of the long serpent-like cases; vegetable-ivory 
and sea-beans from far away coasts ; dried 
sponges and sea flora in long foam-covered 
lines upon the beach ; Portuguese men-o'-war, 
sea biscuits, starfish, horseshoe crabs and sea- 
spiders. And when one is afloat with a water- 
glass (a glass-bottomed bucket), or in a glass- 
bottomed boat, the " sea gardens " reveal to one 
life in another world. The tide currents sway 
the algae and sea plants as in a summer wind. 
Great sea fans of every color bend and wave 
in the water's flow. Coral heads and branches 
and long irregular lines form the background of 
the picture. Among the plants grow sponges of 
all sorts ; bright-hued fishes of every shape and 
size go on their ways giving new beauty to the 
picture with every motion; devilfish and inkfish 
leisurely drift through the water; crawfish wave 
their long feelers from tiny ocean caverns, and 
great crabs crawl about. There is endless vari- 
ety and motion. 



MIAMI TO KEY WEST 199 

To be on the beach on a dark night and to 
see the phosphorescence of the water, or to take 
a small boat and row over the sheltered bays and 
see the illumined spray follow the oars and mark 
the course of fish through the water by the 
streaks of light that follow them, is most novel. 
>The inhabitants of the Keys, both whites and 
negroes, have come largely from the Bahama 
Islands, and they have more English character- 
istics than American. They are called *'Conchs." 
(The conch, king and queen both, is found abun- 
dantly and is eaten in soup and chowder on the 
Keys and in the Bahama Islands. It is savory 
but tough-fibered.) Their means of livelihood 
are sponging, fishing and turtling. Wrecking is 
still attended with all the excitement of the old 
piratical and blockade-running days, but with 
none of the lawlessness. The *' conchs " culti- 
vate the tropical fruit trees mentioned, and in 
addition have vegetable gardens of great variety, 
and grow fine bananas and pineapples, also some 
little sissal hemp. They make mats, hats and 
baskets of the palm leaf, which find ready sale 
in Key West and Miami. 

^There are no towns on the Keys except Mara- 
thon and Key West. Indeed they are not suit- 
able to be settled on by year-round residents, 
though the climate and jeweled seas and inter- 
esting shores make them an ideal winter resort. 
A low bungalow and a boat are all that are 
needed. The beauty of the days and nights can- 
not be described. The Keys, the romantic charm 
of coral strands and opal seas, and the lure of 
the tropics lie at the very door of the busy man 
seeking rest. 



200 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Jewfish (416 m.) is the first station on the 
Keys (Key Largo). The railroad crosses the 
lake, and turning south runs through Key Largo, 
passing through the jungle in the center of the 
island. It reaches Key Largo (417 m.), which 
is the station for a settlement on the ocean side 
of the Key. It continues through jungle and 
cleared land to Rock Harbor (424 m.), where the 
coral rock was quarried for building the railroad. 
At Tavernier (431 m.) is the station for Planter 
post office, an old settlement on the Keys 
which, for many years, was the most prosperous 
of all. There was a store, school and church, 
and a flourishing fishing industry. A hurricane 
a few years ago practically destroyed the town, 
and there are only a few scattered families left. 
The gardens and orchards about Planter are 
extensive. 

The railroad crosses Tavernier creek to Plan- 
tation Key. Plantation (435 m.) is the station. 
The railroad then crosses to Upper Metacumbe 
Key. Quarry (438 m.) is followed by Islamo- 
rada (440 m.). Here there are several attractive 
bungalows built on the northwest side of the 
Key, in a charming situation, and well adapted 
to the climate. On the ocean side is Russell's 
post office and store. A mile and a half down 
the beach is Pindar's, where enthusiastic fisher- 
men found simple accommodations for years. 

Central Supply (444 m.) was the main supply 
camp of the railroad during its construction. 
Indian Key (445 m.) is on Lower Metacombe 
Key. Indian Key, the scene of the massacre 
of Dr. Perrine, lies to the east, opposite the chan- 
nel between the two Metacumbe Keys. At Mid- 



I- MIAMI TO KEY WEST 201 

way (448 m.) the railroad crosses to Jewfish Key 
and then to Long Key — Cook's Siding (450 m.). 
The same way, cut through jungle, mangroves, 
and over coral rocks and made embankments, 
leads to Crescent (455 m.). 

Long Key (457 m.) is at the lower end of the 
Key of the same name. Here is established the 
Long Key Fishing Camp Hotel, one of the chain 
of the F. E. C. R. R. hotels. It is situated in a 
large grove of cocoanut trees on the southeast 
point of the Island. It consists of a large central 
building with verandas on all sides, and numer- 
ous cottages, each named from a fish caught in 
these waters. The beach, not two hundred 
yards from the buildings, is of white sand and 
affords good bathing. The Gulf Stream is only 
a mile away at sea, and the passing shipping 
makes an interesting picture. The wharf is to 
the southwest, running along parallel to the 
railroad. There are all sorts of boats to be 
chartered here, launches and rowboats and some 
small sailboats. Sailboats of any size (with 
sticks over 20 feet) cannot clear the arches of 
the viaduct, and are anchored on the other side 
of the key. There are usually many yachts in 
this latter anchorage, and during the season the 
fishing camp is thronged with sportsmen. The 
fishing is exceedingly good (see Sports, p. 81). 
The hotel is not luxurious but is most comfor- 
table, and has excellent water, good sanitation, 
and telegraph and express facilities. 

The railroad now crosses the long concrete 
viaduct (see p. 195) and the " over-sea " journey 
begins to seem to be an accomplished fact. The 
water, from the elevation of the train, takes on 



202 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

a variety of beautiful hues, and the rushing tide 
gives some idea of the difficulty of the work of 
construction. 

Grassy Key (464 m.) is next reached. This 
is one of the highest of the Keys, and has a 
pretty bay indenting its shore. The railroad 
crosses to Key Vaca (471 m.). At the lower end 
of this Key is Marathon (474 m.) a thriving little 
town with a large wharfage on the land side. 
The railroad shops are established here, and at 
Boot Key to the east is the harbor for boats. 
The offices for the company's engineers for this 
part of the work were located here, and also 
the commissary buildings. It is interesting to 
see so much of material civilization and methods 
in such close contact with the absolute wild. 
The hotels are not suitable for tourists. 

Formerly the railway ended at Knight's Key 
Dock and at this point passengers were trans- 
ferred to steamers for Cuba. But in January, 
191 2, through passenger train service to Key 
West was begun, and the old dock at the 1. of 
the viaduct crossing Mosher Channel was aban- 
doned. This is the deepest channel from out- 
side waters of the open sea to the Gulf. The 
view on both sides of the train is uninterrupted 
by land, and the Keys in sight further on are 
small. These small Keys, are crossed and the 
way continues over Bahia Honda Key ; then it 
traverses Bahia Honda Channel with its good 
harbor r. by another viaduct (see p : 195) reach- 
ing West Summerland Key. Here to the r. be- 
gins a network of Keys separated by shoal water 
which extends almost to Key West. To the 1. 
are the waters of Hawk's Channel sheltered bv 



KEY WEST 203 

the outlying, submerged coral reef. Spanish 
Harbor (489 m.). The railway crosses Pine 
Key Channel by a viaduct (see p. 195) to Pine 
Key (492 m.) crossing Ramrod Key and Sum- 
merland Key to Cudjoe (500 m.). Its way then 
lies across Racoon and Sugar Loaf Keys to 
Chase (506 m.). Big Coppitt (512 m.) is passed 
and the viaduct from Boca Chica (p. 195) to Key 
West Island is crossed. The island is traversed 
and the over seas journey is ended at Key West. 
Key West 
Key West (522 m., pop. 19,945), elevation ten 
feet, " The Island City," is the southernmost city 
in the United States. It is situated on a small 
island of the same name, seven miles long, 60 
miles southwest of Cape Sable. Cayo Huesco 
— Bone Island — the Spanish name from which 
the present one was corrupted, was given the 
island because of the number of human bones 
found there. Whether these were the remains 
of the victims of the pirates and wreckers who 
occupied the island in Spanish times, or of Car- 
ibbean cannibals, is not known. The history of 
the place begins from the time it became part 
of the United States in 1822. The few scattered 
inhabitants then found there were " Conchs " 
from the Bahamas, people from St. Augustine, 
mostly Minorcans, and some Cubans. They 
lived by fishing, sponging and wrecking, and 
were almost as lawless as their predecessors of 
the black flag. The history of the place is re- 
plete with tales of those times. Indeed, the for- 
tunes of some of the most substantial citizens 
were founded upon those treasure ships whose 
wrecking was not always quite legitimate nor 



204 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

necessary. The many reefs in these waters, 
however, do render them dangerous in the trop- 
ical storms that sometimes sweep the seas, and 
a well-equipped wrecking and salvaging fleet puts 
out from this port whenever the word of a ship 
in distress is received. 

It was not until 1868 that there was any great 
growth in Key West when fugitives who were 
driven out of Cuba during the insurrection set- 
tled there, and the cigar industry was estab- 
lished. The town has since grown steadily in 
numbers, and its port facilities have developed 
commercially. There are deep channels to its 
capacious harbor, and docks and wharves have 
been built to accommodate its increasing trade. 
These have been supplemented by extensive gov- 
ernment works, and the F. E. C. R. R's terminal 
improvements, consisting of piers, sea-wall and 
water front buildings which will add greatly to 
the facilities of the town as a port. 

The town itself is not attractive. The streets 
are practically unpaved except in the business 
portion. There is no public supply of water, a 
few scattered wells and cisterns of rain water 
meeting the demand. There is no sewerage 
system, but in spite of this, and of the most 
careless street sanitation, the death-rate is low. 
The insular position of the town and the trade- 
winds have much to do with its healthfulness 
and good climate. Though only 60 miles from 
the Tropics, it is cooler than some cities farther 
north. The houses are principally of wood, and 
are not built with any special regard to archi- 
tectual effect. The many verandas and bal- 
conies are a redeeming feature, and, as else- 




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KEY WEST 205 

where in Florida, the unique flora helps to add 
charm in the tourist's eye to most prosaic en- 
vironment. The cork, cocoanut and almond 
trees, with oleanders, bananas and jasmine, all 
lend beauty to the place. 

There are several business streets and a tram- 
line that makes the circuit of the town and runs 
to a large cigar factory several miles in the 
country. There is a county road that is hard- 
surfaced with coral. The lighthouse is a fixed 
light, and stands in the town itself. The docks 
are the most interesting part of the place. The 
chief commercial interest is cigar-making, over 
150,000,000 being the annual output. The 
sponge industry is extensive. In these beds 
from which the " spongers " gather their spoil 
grow the best varieties for the market, and at the 
sponge auctions at Key West a million dollars* 
worth are sold annually. The Greek spongers 
have come in great numbers to Key West, and 
by their lawless methods have done great in- 
jury to the beds. They have camps also at the 
Tampa sponging grounds. 

The fish wharves are most interesting places 
to visit. Great green turtles, weighing several 
hundred pounds, and smaller ones that are 
shipped alive, kingfish by the boat-load, Spanish 
mackerel and pompano, are all marketed on the 
dock. The fishing, turtling and sponging fleets 
are very picturesque. 

The government has an important naval sta- 
tion here — a reservation of sixty acres, with ex- 
tensive coal depots and a distilling plant for 
supplying fresh water. There are commodious 
accommodations for the men stationed here, and 



2o6 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

the facilities for coaling are at the rate of lOO 
tons per hour. There is also a marine and army 
post to the northeast of the town. In the 
grounds of the garrison post and armory adjoin- 
ing the U. S. barracks is a fine specimen of a 
banyan tree, the sacred fig of the Hindoos. 
Fort Taylor, a casemated fortification, guards 
the mouth of the harbor, with an equipment of 
modern batteries. 

A visit to the cigar factories, to the docks and 
to the Government Reservation, and to La Brisa, 
a beach pleasure resort, exhausts the attractions 
of the town and the island, but excursions can 
be made to neighboring Keys by arranging with 
some of the native fishermen as guides. 

The Dry Tortugas, the last group of Keys to 
the westward, is the site of old Fort Jefferson. 
It is a favorite cruising ground for the savants 
of the Carnegie Biological Commission. Be- 
tween here and Key West are groups of unin- 
habited Keys. For Key West hotels, see list. 

The port has many lines of steamships, among 
which are: 

The Mallory Line, from New York to Key 
West, Tampa and Mobile, and from New York 
to Galveston. 

The American-Hawaiian Line, from New York 
to Coatzcoalcos. 

The Porto Rico Line, from Porto Rico to New 
Orleans and to Galveston. 

The Southern Line, from Philadelphia to 
Tampa. 

The P. & O. Line, from Tampa to Havana, 
and from Key West to Knight's Key. 



HISTORY OF THE EAST COAST RAILROAD 207 

History of the Florida East Coast Railroad 

It was not until the building of the Florida East 
Coast Railroad that the real greatness of Flor- 
ida as a pleasure ground for this country, east 
of the Rocky Mountains, during the winter 
months, a health-bringing resort for all of the 
United States and a place in which to live, be- 
came really widely known. The census of 1880 
showed but 269,493 people in the State; there 
were but 408 miles of railroads. In 1884, there 
was but little change from these figures. The 
East Coast of Florida was practically unknown. 
That part of the State was only reached by the 
St. John's steamers, and uncomfortable connec- 
tions to the Indian river steamboats. There was 
no public carrier south of Jupiter Inlet. 

Mr. Henry M. Flagler made his first journey to 
Florida in 1884. He visited St. Augustine and 
bought a marsh lying within the city gates, filled 
it up, and began the erection of the Ponce de 
Leon Hotel, a building of great beauty, of per- 
fect unity in its architectural design, and of most 
luxurious comfort. In 1886, he bought a narrow- 
gauge railroad leading from Jacksonville to St. 
Augustine, which was a most unsatisfactory 
route, and transformed it into the initial sec- 
tions of the future F. E. C. System. He built 
a steel bridge across the river at Jacksonville, 
and through train service from Jersey City to 
St. Augustine was begun in 1887, the year the 
Ponce de Leon opened. In St. Augustine itself 
he wrought a transformation. He built two 
miles of streets, comfortable homes for his em- 
ployes, established electric light and water 



2o8 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

plants, and erected carshops for the railroad. 
He also built the Alcazar Hotel, the Casino and 
baths, the City Hall, the hospital, Grace Metho- 
ist Church and parsonage, the colored school, 
and the beautiful Memorial Presbyterian Church 
and manse in rememberance of his only daugh- 
ter. After the Catholic Cathedral was destroyed 
by fire, he donated the money for its rebuilding. 
He transformed St. Augustine into a city of ex- 
quisite beauty, cherishing all that was old and 
valuable, and supplementing its historic inter- 
est by modern work that did not mar the picture, 
but became a part of it. 

He bought the old railroad from Tocoi to St. 
Augustine and from there to Palatka, bridging 
the St. John's at Palatka; also bought the road 
from San Mateo to Daytona, which he rebuilt, 
and connected with the other at East Palatka. 
He then bought the Ormond Hotel and it was 
opened for visitors in a way that made excur- 
sions to this new country possible, with every 
luxury of home environment. To encourage im- 
migration, he established a model farm at Hast- 
ings. The great development of that section all 
received its inspiration from this. 

He obtained a charter for a road to Miami 
and Key West in 1892, and the road was begun 
at once along the Indian River, crossing the large 
streams tributary, at Gilbert's Bar Inlet (Stuart) 
and Jupiter Inlet, skirting Lake Worth's west 
shore to end at Palm Beach on the east side of 
the lake. In 1893, this road was opened as far 
as Rockledge, and shortly afterward a wharf 
was built at Cocoa to connect with the Indian 
River steamboats (running from Titusville to 



HISTORY OF THE EAST COAST RAILROAD 209 

Jupiter Inlet). In the same year, he bought the 
land at Palm Beach, on which the Royal 
Poinciana Hotel was built, and in January, 1894, 
the hotel was opened. The railroad to" Palm 
Beach was opened on March 2.2, 1894. The 
town site for West Palm Beach was plotted in 
1893, and made ready for settlers, having paved 
streets, water works, and a large public school 
building. 

In 1894, he became interested in the East 
Coast Canal & Transportation Company and 
helped to complete the canals from the Indian 
River to Miami. 

In 1895, he extended the railroad to Miami, 
laid out the city, paved the streets, established 
water and electric light works, and erected a 
public school building. He built, in 1896, the 
Breakers at Palm Beach. He built the Royal 
Palm Hotel at Miami. In 1896, he built also 
the Colonial Hotel at Nassau, in the Bahamas, 
and bought the Royal Victoria. 

In 1904 he built the Pablo Beach railroad from 
Jacksonville, and extended it to Mayport, where 
he built large wharves for the loading of coal 
and lumber. He also erected the Continental 
Hotel at Atlantic Beach, and gave to the State 
and adjacent country a summer seaside resort 
of first rank. 

In 1905, he extended the railroad from Miami 
to Homestead, and in 1907 the work of building 
it over the Keys to Key West was begun. In 
January, 1908, the railroad from Jacksonville to 
Knight's Key, 477 miles, was opened and a line 
of steamers established, making connection with 
Key West and Havana. Work on the 64 miles 



210 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

of road between Knight's Key and Key West 
was completed and the first through passenger 
train reached Key West January 22, 191 2. 

He organized a Land Department in connec- 
tion with the railroad and through its efficient 
work, under the charge of Mr. James E. Ingra- 
ham, the development of the country along the 
line of the Florida East Coast has been sanely 
and wisely conducted. Actual settlers have 
come in great numbers, not only to the East 
Coast, but all over the State. It was by the ex- 
ample and the generosity of Mr. Flagler that a 
great impetus was given to progress and pros- 
perity. It was his energy and prophetic vision 
that made him see that if this gateway were 
opened, the people would find a new pleasure 
ground and a fertile field for labor. His expecta- 
tions have been more than realized. So rapidly 
has the land developed that the railroad has not 
been able to keep pace with the growing wants 
of its patrons, and greater facilities and an en- 
larged carrying capacity have been promised. 



y 



The Everglades 

The fabled mysteries of the Everglades have 
often alone drawn to Florida those who have 
loved adventure. The stories that were told by 
the historians of De Soto's time of the homes 
of the aborigines, of the beautiful princess who 
was his hostess, of the pearls that she showered 
upon him from the despoiled tombs of her an- 
cestors, of the pearls, too, that the common rsol- 
diers found in the fresh water shells, and hav- 
ing gathered them, threw away, because they 




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THE EVERGLADES 211 

were too heavy to carry, seem like fairy tales. 
And did not Atala, Chateaubriand's royal prin- 
cess, begin her wanderings from the tombs of 
her people in the mystic fastnesses of these same 
glades? And through the wild buccaneering 
times were not pirates, with their ships full of 
booty, chased to the rivers that flowed from the 
Everglades? There they were lost to pursuit 
and to this day tales of their sunken treasures 
in scuttled boats, in these winding streams, are 
told. Many islands are the storied burial places 
of the loot of gold and silver from forgetful sea 
rovers. 

Even in defiance of the geological unities, a 
smoking mountain, sacred to the Indians, was 
put in the very center of this unexplored region 
and there they were supposed to have preserved 
some of the traditions of their ancestors' lost 
civilization. Folklore was imagined for them 
by enthusiastic writers, and tales of wondrous 
interest and mystery — but of little truth — 
were written, that have only added to the mis- 
information and misconceptions already existing. 

The aboriginal visitors to Florida, whose 
circle of shell mounds and forts are still to be 
seen around the peninsula, did not penetrate into 
the Everglades; none of the explorations made 
so far find any trace of them. The Seminoles, 
Runaways, as their name tells, came from the 
Georgia Creeks. The story of their migration 
is well told in " The Florida Exiles," by J. D. 
Giddings. They here sought safety from their 
enemies who were less able to penetrate into 
these fastnesses than they. Florida was so little 
settled that they found a home and a country 



212 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

where all their wants could be supplied and they 
could live in their own ways untrammeled by the 
encroachments of civilization. As the State set- 
tled, and little towns were built to which they 
could go by water, they came to trade, as they 
do to-day. At first their desire was for simple 
things that appealed to their childish taste, but 
now they barter their wares for civilization's im- 
plements — the sewing machine, the gasoline 
stove, and even the motor-boat! There is much 
to be said of them, but the visitor to Southern 
Florida will find it easy at Fort Pierce, West 
Palm Beach, Fort Lauderdale, or Miami, to judge 
of them by inspection, and he can with but little 
trouble go into the Everglades from these points 
with a guide and realize at first-hand what this 
life to-day is, and what its environment. 

There are at present only a few hundred Sem- 
inoles left in Florida, all of them living in the 
region of the Everglades. They can generally 
speak English, but they still employ their own 
tongue among themselves. It is true that they 
are still the only guides who can thread their 
way through the wilderness ; it is true that they 
are unwilling to teach the white man their Ever- 
glade lore. They live in half savage, half civi- 
lized fashion on islands within the glades, where 
they raise in primitive ways small crops of vege- 
tables and of Indian corn. In early summer 
there is still said to be a festival and dance of 
the Green Corn, which brings together the scat- 
tered remnants of the race, and has been seen 
by only one or two white men. On the whole, 
however, the mystery and poetry which has sur- 
rounded them ever since the great wars of the 



THE EVERGLADES 213 

nineteenth century is gradually being dissipated. 
It is probable that the draining of Everglades 
and the settling of the country will be the last 
chapter of their history. 

The rapid development of the country south 
of Palm Beach, by reason of the drainage canal 
w^ork, brings every visitor in touch with Ever- 
glade lore as soon as he reaches this part of the 
country. He sees the prospective settlers on the 
railway trains, and sees the evidences of a grow- 
ing country on every side, and as is usual in 
growing new countries, everywhere glowing 
fancies and sober fact are so blended it is hard 
to know just what are the real conditions. 

The Everglades are variously estimated to 
contain 5,000 to 8,000 square miles. They begin 
in St. Lucie and De Soto counties and extend 
south through Palm Beach and Lee, into Dade 
county. They are a vast glade interspersed with 
wooded islands or grassy spaces, covered wholly 
(except the islands) in the wet season with 
water, through which flow channels from one 
to ten feet deep, all with a general southerly cur- 
rent. The region is at the most twenty feet 
above sea level. The contour is a vast basin or 
saucer. The limestone coral rock forming its 
edge or rim is ragged and worn and covered by 
disintegrated rock and sand, with a deposit of 
humus and muck in the holes and crannies. 
This rim is higher than the general floor of the 
basin and holds the water there. Through de- 
pressions or breaks in the rim there are natural 
outlets — the Ratones, New river, the Miami, 
Shark's river and the Caloosahatchie, which 
carry away the great natural supply of water 



214 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

that comes from subterranean springs and from 
the summer rainfalls. 

The limestone floor of this basin is uneven, 
and at many places it rises above the level of 
the water and grassy, semi-submerged saw- 
grass land and little islands are formed. The 
water is fresh and sweet and potable. The 
islands are not overflowed in the summer during 
the rainy season, but have just enough moisture 
to encourage a luxuriant tropic growth. They 
are covered with trees and vines, and on these 
fertile grounds the Seminoles till their little gar- 
dens. The soil is first limestone, then over un- 
derlying marl, then muck and humus. The 
saw-grass which makes up the main body of the 
Everglades, grows rankly, often ten feet tall; it 
is impossible to cut it or to make one's way 
through it, as it is literally a saw- or sword-grass, 
and will cut very badly if handled carelessly. 
The general picture that one sees on leaving the 
river or dredged canal by which one has come 
to the Everglades, is of an extent of grassy 
country studded here and there with islands 
covered with most lush growth, and if near 
enough to a lake or deeper part of the basin, 
of glimpses. of its sheen stretching away through 
the green. 

The Everglades are as yet not thoroughly ex- 
plored, though enough of their extent has been 
traversed to be able to determine with almost 
surety what their general character is. After 
the retreat of the Seminoles to their depths 
several government expeditions were ordered, 
but they did little more than penetrate the edges 
of this vast extent of unknown country. These 



THE EVERGLADES 215 

were the expeditions of Lieutenant Commandant 
Marchand, in 1842, that of Lieutenant Command- 
ant Rogers, in the same year, and that of Lieu- 
tenant F. Martin, in 1847. Major A, P. Wil- 
liams, in 1883, led what is called the New Or- 
leans *' Times-Democrat " expedition from the 
Shark river to Lake Okeechobee, along the 
western edge of the Glades. The first expedi- 
tion that actually crossed the Everglades was 
that of Mr. James E. Ingraham, to whose in- 
itiative much of Florida's development is due — 
this was in March of 1892. Starting at Fort 
Myers, it followed the government trail to Fort 
Drum, past the ruins of Sam Jones' Old Town to 
Fort Shackleford. From there it traversed a 
wilderness untrodden by white man, through the 
heart of the Everglades to the present site of 
Miami. A later expedition, of Lieutenant Hugh 
F. Willoughby, in 1898, added to the limited 
knowledge possessed of the region. 

The problem of draining and reclaiming the 
Everglades has always been a tempting one. 
There are legends that the Spaniards, centuries 
ago, undertook the work. (Evidences of the ex- 
istence of old canals connecting Lake Okeecho- 
bee and the Caloosahatchie river are still to be 
seen.) And later, all through the eighteenth and 
nineteenth centuries, one discovers constant ref- 
erences to this plan. 

The United States Government originally held 
all the region as public lands, but because of 
the sparse population it transferred to the State 
of Florida a certain amount of land, part of 
which was to be used to help to promote rail- 
road communications, and part to pay for drain- 



2i6 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

ing and developing into arable land, swamp and 
overflowed land. A private company in 1881 be- 
gan negotiations for this purpose. They ac- 
quired 4,000,000 acres of Everglades land, and 
began a canal from Lake Okeechobee to Lake 
Hicpochee, and then to the Caloosahatchie 
river, dredging to Lake Flirt and onward. In 
1892 floods from summer rainfalls closed this 
canal and nothing more was done. Indeed this 
work is all lost as it was not well-planned. The 
canals undertaken in the Kissimmee district have 
been in a measure successful. Those about Lake 
Hart were never finished. 

In 1905-1906 work by the State itself was be- 
gun, under the Drainage Board. Governor 
Broward, a most romantic and forceful figure in 
Florida's history, had made a campaign for the 
Governorship, standing on " dry land in the 
Everglades " for his platform. On his election, 
and the formation of the Drainage Board, the 
work began, and the State Drainage Engineer 
has projected six canals — the northermost at 
Jensen, the southermost at Miami. At present 
there is a great activity in this work. Contracts 
have been sublet, and dredges are at work both 
in the Miami and New rivers. The engineering 
features of this work are very interesting to the 
tourist. Launches make the trip to the dredges 
and return in a few hours from both Miami and 
Fort Lauderdale. The cutting through of the 
ragged coral rim of the basin is not alone all ; 
there are- other elevations in the bottom of the 
depressions that must be outcrop of sublying 
rock, probably lesser basin rims. Coral forma- 
tion is atoll always, and reef after reef has prob- 



THE EVERGLADES 217 

ably been added in making this newest top land 
in America. There must be siiblying basic rock, 
perhaps a last low-lying spur from the Appala- 
chian Chain, perhaps an isolated dead volcano, 
but the world-building corals have worked out 
of the depths unto their ends, the top of the water 
marking their field's bounds. The land has ap- 
peared and man is trying to hasten its readiness 
for him. 

The outcome of the draining is not by any 
means an easy thing to predict. So far it prom- 
ises well. It is estimated that 8,000,000 arable 
acres will be added to Florida's lands, and it is 
confidently expected that this will be the rich- 
est tract in the State. There is much discus- 
sion and prophecy about the possible effect of 
the draining of the Glades upon the climate of 
South Florida. By many it is feared that the 
removal of this great body of water will destroy 
the equability and mildness of the climate. But 
by as many more it is alleged that there is no 
reason for apprehension. 

The space affected by drainage operations is 
130 miles long and 70 miles wide. It lies on an 
average of 7 miles from the Atlantic and 50 miles 
from the Gulf Coast. At present, for the sports- 
man with gun and camera, it is a most attractive 
hunting ground. He must have a guide and 
camping outfit, but he will have experiences such 
as cannot be enjoyed anywhere else in the United 
States. 

The waterways are easy of access for canoes ; 
halts can be made on the islands, and on some of 
them the Indians' camping places are established, 
and the Indians themselves in these days no 



2i8 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

longer hide from the visitor. The live-oaks 
draped in moss, the glossy leaves of the wild 
orange and lemon, the wild rubber trees and 
bays, the trailing vines and beautiful orchids, 
make each island a picture of beauty. To know 
that there are alligators and crocodiles in the 
sawgrass canals, otters with homes on their 
banks, deer, panther, and wildcats, all to be 
hunted, and what is more to the purpose, found, 
makes the sportsman's days interesting ones and 
his evening camp-fire classic! The birds he no 
longer shoots; the egret, limpkin, heron, curlew, 
and crane are not killed just when the young 
are most dependent on them — but their rook- 
eries can be visited and their habits observed. 
On the edge of the Everglades, to the west, is 
the Big Cypress Swamp, and to go into that 
from the Gulf side gives a new sensation to the 
Northern visitor. To go to Lake Okeechobee 
from Kissimmee is a very interesting excursion. 
Steamboats and motorboats make the journey, 
with but little trouble to the traveler, but the 
real Everglades lie east and south of the great 
lake. 










CO 



THE ST. JOHN'S RIVER 

Jacksonville to Enterprise (187 m., 19 hrs.) 

The steamboats which make the St. John's 
River trip are operated by the Clyde Line. Dur- 
ing the season, there is a tri-weekly service from 
Jacksonville to Enterprise. 19 hrs. up, and 17J 
hrs. down the river, fare one way $3.75, includ- 
ing meals and berths. The boat leaves Jackson- 
ville at 3.30 p. m., on this trip up the river; and, 
returning leaves Enterprise at 10.30 a. m. By this 
arrangement of time the tourist sees all the in- 
teresting parts of the river by daylight. 

The Independent Line steamers from Jackson- 
ville to Green Cove Springs (30 m.) leave daily 
except Sundays at 2.30 p. m. arriving at Green 
Cove Springs at 6.30 p. m., and returning leave 
at 6.30 a. m. arriving at Jacksonville at 10.30 — 
fare one way 75c. 

The Beach & Miller Line steamers from Jack- 
sonville to Crescent City (80 m.) loj hrs., fare one 
way $1.50, daily except Sundays, leave Jackson- 
ville at 8.30 a. m. And returning, leave Crescent 
City at 6.30 a. m. 

The Jacksonville and Mayport steamers from 
Jacksonville to Mayport (23 m.), 3 hrs., leave 
daily, except Sundays, at 2 p. m., and returning, 
leave Mayport at 6.00 a. m. This last service is 
down the river to its mouth. 

The Ocklawaha trip can be made in connec- 
tion with that of the St. John's river, by break- 
ing the journey at Palatka, and resuming it after, 
returning from Silver Springs. 
219 



220 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

The St. John's is Florida's greatest river. It 
was for centuries the chief, if not the only ave- 
nue of approach to the interior of the country. 
Along it were made some of the earliest at- 
tempts at colonization, and its shores still recall 
old legends and romantic history. It was called 
by the Indians Ylacco or Walaka '* River of 
Many Lakes " ; by the French, " Riviere de Mai," 
as Ribaut entered it on the first of the month of 
May. By the Spaniards it was called both Rio 
San Matheo and Rio Picolato, before it received 
its final name of Rio San Juan or St. John's river. 

The tourist in search of tropical scenery, his- 
toric points of interest and present day progress 
will find much to interest him on the St. John's 
river. When the boat leaves Jacksonville it be- 
gins its journey in a stretch of river, almost three 
miles wide. To the right is Riverside, a beau- 
tiful suburb of Jacksonville, ending in the parked 
section of Ortega. Opposite on the pine-covered 
shores are residences and gardens too far away 
to be seen. The water is clear but amber-colored 
from cypress and other pigment-bearing roots. 
The tide reaches above Jacksonville, so the cur- 
rent is affected by it. 

If the mouths of the creeks could be seen, they 
would be found filled with water hyacinths. This 
island-making aquatic plant is a most interesting 
weed to the tourist, and a thing of beauty to 
his eyes. But to the navigator and settler it 
has presented a most serious problem, as grave 
a one as the engineers on the Nile have found 
in dealing with a plant there, with similar habits. 
It succeeds in almost blocking navigation and 
for industry and persistence it points a moral. 



THE ST. JOHN'S RIVER 221 

As to what it accomplishes, that is something 
quite of another order. The hyacinth is not con- 
fined to the creeks and lagoons near Jacksonville. 
It will be met on all the reaches of the river. It 
was not an indigenous plant, and has been as 
mischievous an immigrant as the English spar- 
row. There are many of the smaller streams 
higher up the river where water cress grows 
which was also introduced. The proper story to 
tell is that a voyager tossed a bit of cress out of 
a car window while lunching just as the car 
crossed a creek and the beneficent plant has 
multiplied from that casual origin. 

The steamer keeps on its course until it swings 
in to the left bank at Black Point (10 m.), where 
a landing is made. Opposite is a wealth of pines 
growing to the water's edge, Piney Point. Pass- 
ing this, Orange Park (14 m.) is reached on the 
right bank. In the days before the great freeze 
(1895), about here was a succession of beautiful 
orange groves. The steamer crosses the river 
here, a mile of breadth, and reaches Mandarin 
(15 m.). The cottage of Mrs. Harriet Beecher 
Stowe was here in the old days, a quaint little 
rambling house with the main veranda built 
about a great oak tree. The banks of the river 
of white and crumbling sand, topped by stately 
pines, are high, and the outlook from the steamer 
is very beautiful. From here the boat proceeds 
up the center of the stream until Hibernia (22 
m.) is reached, on an island, on the right, an old 
settlement of much beauty. Just beyond Black 
Creek empties into the river; an interesting 
stream, navigable for eight miles, and rising from 
three sources. Directly across from here on the 



222 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

left bank is Remington Park (25 m.) a landing 
and traffic point for neighboring farmers. 

Magnolia Springs (28 m.) is on the right bank, 
and has for many years been a favorite resort for 
tourists. The resinous air from the many pine 
trees makes it especially beneficial for pulmonary 
invalids, and the waters of the springs are 
healing to many visitors. The forest growth 
here is luxurious, the trees being large and vig- 
orous, and the hammocks containing many varie- 
ties. There is a path, " Lovers' Lane," well 
shaded and of great beauty leading two miles 
to Green Cove Springs, a much used walk. The 
A. C. L. R. R. has a station here. (Hotels, see 
list.) 

Green Cove Springs (30 m.) the next landing 
has a sulphur and chalybeate spring of surpass- 
ing beauty. The waters bubble or rather rush 
up from a depth of forty feet discharging thou- 
sands of gallons daily. Temp. 78°. It has been 
famous as a curative Spa since the time Florida 
was ceded to the United States by the Spaniards. 
Bath houses and hotels have existed here con- 
tinuously, and it has recorded as its guests people 
of distinction from every part of the world. The 
springs of Florida, while of the same general 
character, are distinct in kind. Each one has 
some peculiar charm of its own. A monograph 
should be written on them, setting out the water's 
properties, and those greatest of all features 
should be emphasized, their peculiarly appropriate 
locations and the fostering climatic conditions 
that are so helpful in promoting the invalid's re- 
covery. There has always been a swimming pool 
*here, and the taking of the waters has been sup- 



THE ST. JOHN'S RIVER 223 

plemented by the taking to them. There are fine 
roads in the neighborhood for motoring, driving 
and riding, the last, a favorite pastime in the 
long stretches of beautiful pine woods. Shoot- 
ing and good fresh water fishing are in easy 
reach. Tennis courts, and croquet grounds are 
provided and the new golf links is easy of access 
and very satisfactory. The Quisisana Casino is 
a very attractive building, of an architecture 
eminently suited to the climate, a modified 
Moorish or Moro-Spanish type. It is fitted with 
every modern improvement and the swimming 
baths and pool is most attractive. The A. C. 
L. R. R. has a station here. (Hotels, see list.) 
The river now turns to the east, and passes 
Old Field Point, where a plantation existed for- 
merly. Hogarths (38 m.) is on the left bank of 
the river. Picolata (41 m.) with its narrows, the 
next landing on the left, is a place of historic 
interest. It was the seat of a Spanish settlement, 
and fort. Picolata, once called Picolati, was the 
home in the first half of the nineteenth century 
of Col. John Lee Williams, who wrote what 
was at that time one of the most important 
works upon the peninsula. He was held in such 
respect by the Indians that during the Seminole 
War, when all the planters had fled or been 
butchered, when neither age or sex was a protec- 
tion, when Picolati was burned and St. Augustine 
threatened, he continued to live unharmed in 
his old house, though a companion was shot dead 
on the threshold. He died in 1859 at the age of 
eighty. In the Seminole wars, the United States 
occupied Picolata ; in the Civil War it was a point 
of importance. 



224 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

A little further on is Tocoi (49 m.) a well- 
known place to the Florida tourist of twenty- 
five years ago. The little, single-tracked, badly- 
built, and casually-run, railroad to St. Augus- 
tine started here. The distance was but twenty 
miles, and the way novel and interesting. The 
train was at the disposition of the passengers, and 
it rarely arrived at its destination without spoils 
gathered on the way, in the shape of palmetto 
leaves, ferns and clusters of flowers — all gleaned 
while the train waited. Opposite on the right 
bank is West Tocoi, a station on the A. C. L., 
through which go to-day thousands of passengers 
on express trains with definite schedules, the 
railroad journeys of more primitive days forgot- 
ten. 

Clay's Landing (57 m.) is on the right, bank. 
In the old days long piles of cord wood stood 
ready at the water's edge to be transferred to the 
fuel bins of the boat. Federal Point (61 m.), 
(Hastings on the F. E. C, its station), at the 
mouth of a tributary stream is passed (Hotels, 
see list), and Orange Mills (64 m.) on the left 
bank (with a station to the east on the F. E. C. 
Railway), is surrounded by thriving orange 
groves. The river turns toward the west, and 
Federal Point jutting out on the left into the 
wide stream is passed. A turn to the south is 
made and Palatka (75 m., pop. 3,779) on the right 
bank is reached. 

Palatka is a very old settlement, though till 
the end of the eighteenth century it is spoken of 
in the records as merely " the lower trading 
house." It increased in importance early in the 
nineteenth century. It was until 1869 the head 



THE ST. JOHN'S RIVER 225 

of ocean navii^ation, the steamers from Charles- 
ton and Savannah coming past Jacksonville to 
their destination here. It is still a city of com- 
mercial importance more than commensurate to 
its size. It is a center both for railroad and 
steamboat lines. The prosperous district sur- 
rounding it contributes largely to its shipping in- 
terests. Its location is ideal, its w^inter climate 
healthful and bracing. The elevation is 70 ft. to 
90 ft., and it is near enough to the Atlantic to 
get the benefit of the trade winds which sweep 
in from the southeast, passing through the pine 
forests that lay between here and the coast. 
The first large orange groves of the pioneer times 
that were accessible to tourists were here. These 
trees were from forty to fifty years old at the 
time of the disastrous freeze of 1895 > since then 
they have been replanted and fostered until the 
new groves are again coming into renown. Col. 
H. L. Hart was the man whose enterprise 
did much in the early days to make Palatka a 
resort for the health and pleasure seeker. His 
orange groves were famous. He also established 
the Hart Line of steamboats, which make the 
Ocklawaha trip. Palatka has all the conveniences 
of a modern city. Good sanitation, well paved 
streets, electric lights and wholesome water. The 
roads through the country are good. A new 
bridge across the St. John's to East Palatka 
makes connections with the hard road to Hast- 
ings (13 m.), F. E. C. R. R. and it tributary roads. 
(Hotels, see list.) 

[From here the steamboats of the Hart Line 
make the Ocklawaha trip (p. 232). Steamboats 
also run to Lake George, Drayton Island. Get 



226 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

local time tables. The Beach & Miller Line to 
Crescent City also stops here. The F. E. 
C. Railway has a station at East Palatka from 
which trains are run at frequent intervals daily 
to Palatka (20 minutes), connection being 
made for all points reached by the F. E. C. Rail- 
way. It is a station for the main line south of 
the A. C. L. from Jacksonville to Tampa by way 
of Sanford with all the connections there (p. 253). 
A branch line of the A. C. L. also runs to Ro- 
chelle, connecting with the line from Jack- 
sonville to St. Petersburg (see p. 303). The 
Georgia Southern & Florida from Macon, Ga., 
also terminates here.] 

Above Palatka the St. John's narrows and its 
beauty is hard to describe. The season at which 
the usual tourist sees it is the spring when every 
growing plant and tree is in its most attractive 
state. The tall pines have tips of spring green 
buds at the ends of their clusters of dark needles ; 
the magnolias, and bays and oaks are in the 
perfection of their foliage. The mosses drap- 
ing the trees in long gray tresses are sending 
out shoots of tenderest green, and are full of 
tiny jade white and ivory tinted orchid blooms. 
The cypress with its feathery foliage is like a 
fairy tree. All the many deciduous trees are 
arrayed in new garb, varying from pink and lav- 
ender, bronze, gold and blue green, to white and 
silvery leaves. Vines are at their best, lushly 
trailing, full of bud and bloom, as are the mag- 
nolias. At the foot of the trees are azaleas — and 
lily-like growths are seen in the marshy places. 
Calamus and " bonnets " and iris and hyacinths 
star the ponds. There. is a wealth of life, the 



THE ST. JOHN'S RIVER 227 

beat of the heart of spring is strong in this sub- 
tropic land. Insect and bird life are awake. The 
flash of the sunlight on the heron's wing, the 
glow of the cardinal bird in flight, the blue of 
the jay and the black sheen of the crow add color* 
and light to the whole picture. The traveler 
as the steamer goes on its way yields to the 
charm of the place and the hour. The Hart 
orange groves are passed. 

The river now winds east to Rolleston on the 
left bank. This was the site of one of the most 
famous of early colonies. It was named for the 
English gentleman named Rolles, who, in 1795, 
brought over a colony of one hundred families. 
To the ordinary ideas of colonization he added a 
philanthropic one, that of founding here in this re- 
mote Floridian wilderness a refuge for repentant 
women of the London streets. The new town was 
soon abandoned, however, though the old name 
and some trace of its early occupation still re- 
main. 

The next turn is to the south to San Mateo 
[reached also by trains, two each way daily from 
East Palatka, F. E. C. Railway via San Mateo 
Junction]. It then turns west. Miller's Wharf, 
Tifflin's Wharf and Edgewater Grove are all on 
the left bank. 

[Deep Creek on the left, flows into the St. 
John's, and the way up it into Crescent Lake is 
taken by the steamboats of the Beach & Miller 
Line (p. 219) from Jacksonville to Crescent City 
(80 m.) on the west bank of the lake, also reached 
by a short line from Crescent City Junction over 
the A. C. L. (p. 255.)] 

At Buffalo Bluff the railroad bridge crosses 



228 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

the river, which here turns toward the south, 
and then to the east, passing Horse Landing on 
the right bank and Saratoga on the left. It then 
flows south between banks covered with growths 
of increasing beauty, passing Welaka (lOO m.) 
which, in its name, meaning " Chain of Lakes," 
preserves the original one of the St. John's river, 
The country to the east in this neighborhood war- 
rants its local use. Almost directly across is 
the mouth of the Ocklawaha. In olden times 
this part of the river was the favorite resort of 
the Seminoles, and later the site of a Spanish 
settlement. Relics of both of these former resi- 
dents have been found here. 

The winding river is followed to the east, past 
a point where it widens, only to narrow again, 
at Fort Gates (io6 m.). It again expands, on 
the right is an island, on the left Georgetown. 
Between Parker's Landing on the right and Or- 
ange Point on the left the steamboat enters Lake 
George. Parker's Landing is on Drayton Island 
which is well worthy of a visit because of its 
tropic beauty, citrus groves and interesting abo- 
riginal remains. [Daily trips are made from 
Palatka here by a small steamer.] Lake George 
is twelve miles long by seven miles wide, and 
is a beautiful sheet of water. Its wooded shores 
and sparkling depths make the journey across it 
only too short. Between Volusia Bar (135 m.), 
the site of an early Spanish mission on the right 
and Zindar Landing on the left, the river again 
suddenly narrows, and the scenery is like the 
former reaches. 

Astor (139 m.) is on the right bank. [A 
branch of the A. C. L. Railway to Fort Mason 




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THE ST. JOHN'S RIVER 229 

(p. 259) begins here. Manhattan Landing is also 
on the right. Beyond Bluffton on the left, is 
Lake Dexter. [At the eastern extremity of this 
lake are De Leon Springs and Glenwood, both 
stations on the A. C. L. (p. 255).] 

Several small landings, Idlewild, St. Francis, 
Crow's Bluff and Hawkinsville, are all on the 
right bank. On the left, are the outlets of lakes; 
chief among these Lake Beresford, where there 
are miany little settlements, with thriving orange 
groves. Blue Springs (168 m.) is one of the 
most beautiful of the many wonderful springs 
in Florida. The clear water is deep blue, and 
the aquatic plants, fishes and other animal life 
seen in its depths are all different shades of 
this hue. The basin is 70 feet in diameter and 
40 feet deep. The water rises with such force 
that it is ten inches higher in the center than any- 
where else, and it is impossible to row a boat 
across it. The volume is sufficient to feed a 
stream five feet wide and ten feet deep, with a 
current of five miles an hour. It is wholesome 
chalybeate water with sulphuretted hydrogen in 
mechanical solution. (Hotels, see list.) [The 
F. E. C. Railway branch to Orange City Junc- 
tion also reaches Blue Springs (p. 150).] 

The river is more picturesque here than at any 
part of its course. It continues so for several 
miles. It is crossed by a railroad bridge [A. C. 
L.] just before it widens suddenly into Lake 
Monroe which is seven miles long by four miles 
wide. The first landing is Sanford (193 m.), 
" The Celery City," a thriving little town, beau- 
tifully situated, with modern improvements, and 
good sanitation. The development of celery 



230 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

growing in its environs has been very rapid and 
its commercial importance has been greatly in- 
creased by this industry. It has excellent rail- 
road facilities in all directions and is practically 
the head of navigation on the St. John's river. 
The fishing in the lake is good and visitors find 
much to interest them in the pine woods and 
hammocks and on the lakes near by. Sanford is 
situated upon what is commonly called the San- 
ford grant. This was originally the Levy grant 
from Spain. This was transferred to General 
Funjan and later to General Sanford, formerly 
United States Minister to Belgium, who had 
previously acquired at St. Augustine an orange 
grove which John Hay secured when he was 
Lincoln's secretary. It is a curious comment 
on Florida's diflference from other parts of the 
South that as late as 1870 there were riots upon 
General Sanford's plantations induced by the pro- 
prietor's employing negro labor! (Hotels, see 
list.) (For railroad connections to all points in 
the State, see local time table.) 

The lake is crossed to Enterprise, and the voy- 
age is ended. 

Beyond this point the river is even more in- 
teresting. There are narrow reaches with the 
vegetation forming green walls on each side. A 
series of lakes can be traversed. Lake Jesup, 
about six miles above Lake Monroe, is an attrac- 
tive sheet of water [with the southwest end 
skirted by the A. C. L. (p. 259) ] . About ten miles 
further is Lake Harney, where the sport is good, 
both with gun and rod, and with a camera most" 
satisfying pictures could be collected. Guides 
and outfits can be obtained at Sanford. Beyond 



THE ST. JOHN'S RIVER 231 

Lake Harney the river narrows and there is a 
dense mass of luxurious jungle growths topped 
by tall trees on both banks. Fallen logs bar the 
way. Curtains of swinging vines end the vistas, 
or swept aside, palmettoes, ferns, — man-high, — 
orchids, magnolias and bays and wild citrus trees, 
cypress and oaks are seen, all woven into one 
beautiful natural tapestry. It is hard to turn 
back, but the river is lost and barred to a boat 
long before its ultimate source in Great Saw- 
grass Lake, west of Malabar (p. 156), is reached. 



THE OCKLAWAHA RIVER 

Palatka to Silver Spring (135 m., 20 hrs.) 

The Hart Line steamers start from Palatka on 
Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at noon and 
return Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. 
The time going up the river to Silver Spring is 
20 hours; down 15 hours; fare $7.00, meals and 
berths included. 

The visitor is advised to take the journey in 
both directions so as to have a daylight view of 
the whole river. There is a wait of an hour and 
a half at Silver Spring. The steamers are con- 
structed for ease in passing through narrow 
places, and for making very short turns. The 
steering gear is interesting. In addition to the 
searchlight, at night a brazier forward on the 
upper deck is filled with pine roots and lighted 
and the reflections of the leaping flames on the 
foliage and the water is indescribably weird and 
picturesque. 

The boats are comfortable and never over- 
crowded, only enough tickets being sold for each 
trip to fill the staterooms. It is best to secure 
accommodations in advance. The river was 
opened for navigation in i860 by Col. H. L. Hart, 
and since then this interesting and unique water 
journey has been one of the most attractive that 
can be taken in Florida. The flora is luxurious 
and the forbidding of shooting from the steamers 
has made the birds and animals of the region 
fearleas. The river passes for much of the way 
through dense cypress swamps. 
232 



THE OCKLAWAHA RIVER 233 

From Palatka the way is through the St. John's 
river until opposite Welaka (25 m,) it turns to 
the right and enters the Ocklawaha river. The 
steamer twists and turns, as it makes its way 
through the tall cypress trees. Bear's Island 
(30 m.) is passed and the small landing of Dav- 
enport (32 m.). At Blue Springs (48 m.) to the 
right the waters from a crystalline spring join 
the river. The color of the spring itself is al- 
most an aquamarine. 

Fort Brooke (58 m.) to the right recalls mem- 
ories of early days when the Indians were at 
home in these fastnesses. There are sand 
mounds on the river from which ornaments of 
copper and stone implements have been taken, 
showing that the aborigines knew the secrets of 
the " dark crooked river," the translation of Ock- 
lawaha. Beyond Fort Brooke Orange Creek (59 
m.) to the right flowing from Orange Lake joins 
the river, and there is a turn to the south by the 
steamer. 

Up to this time the general direction has been 
to the west. Soon the steamer comes to a very 
narrow part of the river. The Needle's Eye 
(62 m.). It looks impassable and the beautiful 
barring walls of tropical growths make the 
thought of delay not unpleasant. By turning and 
reversing engines and a little judicious poling 
the steamer goes on its way, the foliage almost 
arching overhead, the sunlight filtering through, 
the shadows quivering from oak and magnolia, 
cypress-pine and palmetto, water-maples, pink al- 
monds and bay, with leaves glossy green on one 
side and tender sea-green on the other; the gum 



234 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

trees, the dogwood covered with star-like flowers, 
the blooming horse-chestnuts, the orchids, the 
jasmine perfuming the air, the sweet-scented 
woodbine, the rhododendrons and water lilies, 
and a wealth of other flowers and vines bring- 
ing notes of color. The brown of the palmetto 
trunks, the umbers and siennas of the other trees, 
the long furrowed lines of the tall cypress trunks, 
gray and almost black, rising to their crowns of 
most beautiful feathery foliage, from their clus- 
tering knees in the mirror-like water, the unfa- 
miliar shrubbery and undergrowth, the fans of the 
palms, and the trailing gray mosses, all make an 
indescribable picture. 

Indian Bluff (64 m.), to the right, recalls the 
original explorers of these forests. Twin Pal- 
mettoes (65 m.), to the right, is marked by a 
double palmetto tree, a Insiis naturae only. 
Paine's Landing (71 m.) is only a settler's gate- 
way; lola is another. Rough-and-Ready Cut 
(76 m.) is interesting, the river having been 
cleared here, and soon after Forty-foot Bluff (78 
m.), to the right, is passed. The name is a bit 
misleading. At Eureka (87 m.), to the right, 
there are orange groves and a little more real 
land on the banks of the river. 

Cypress Gate (88 m.) is one of the most beau- 
tiful scenes on the river. The steamer passes 
between two tall cypress trees, there being just 
room enough for her to make her way. The 
swamp on either side is most beautiful here, and 
at Twin Cypress (95 m.) there is another double 
tree. A few miles beyond this, in a widening of 
the swamp, is an island — Hell's Half Acre (loi 




c 



t[j 







en 



O 



THE OCKLAWAHA RIVER 235 

m.). Then come the Straits of Dardanelles, 
where the river narrows, again passing through 
the enclosing tropical flora. 

Gore's Landing (103 m.) is passed, and Osce- 
ola's Old Field (104 m.), to the right, brings mem- 
ories of the great chief whose life was ended in 
captivity at Fort Moultrie. He probably had a 
cane and corn field here in his happier days be- 
fore war and wrongs had disturbed life in his 
chosen hunting grounds. Palmetto Grove (108 
m.) to the left, is named for the many palmettoes 
there. 

More open spaces are now seen along the 
river, and after two long turns Connor (118 m.) 
is reached. Randall's orange grove is here, and 
the passengers go ashore for oranges, lemons, 
figs and other fruits, and roses and other flow- 
ers in abundance. Grahamville (121 m.), to the 
left, is also a landing for an orange grove. 

Dilk's Bluff (123 m.), is the last landing on the 
Ocklawaha river before the boat turns to the 
west into Silver Spring Run for the last and most 
interesting stage of the water journey. The color 
of the water is a beautiful, clear, bluish-crystal, 
and through it the bottom of the river can be 
seen plainly. The voyagers forget the tropical 
scenery about them and lean over the rail watch- 
ing the waterscapes. The dense woods are left 
behind and only the trees along the waterway 
are seen as the boat nears Silver Spring. Jacob's 
Wells are passed, and the little steamer floats out 
into the Spring. So clear is the water that the 
boat seems suspended in the air. The objects 
seen below are all surrounded by iridescence, the 
refraction of the light by the water splitting up 



256 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

each sunbeam into a rainbow of colors which bor- 
ders everything beneath the surface. It is one 
of the many fabled fountains of youth of Ponce 
de Leon. 

The springs cover an area of three acres. 
There are five basins with names each derived 
from the shape, the color and the fauna. The 
largest is 85 feet deep, and the water is transpar- 
ent to the very bottom. Fish, turtles, weeds and 
water mosses can be seen as plainly as if in the 
air. There are glass-bottomed boats for visitors 
and the guides will row to the most interesting 
spots. A subterranean river finds its outlet here 
and several million gallons of water flow daily. 
For untold ages the spring has been a drinking 
place for animals. Before the time of present day 
men there w^ere mastodon and prehistoric hippo- 
potami in the neighborhood. At the Bone Yard, 
near Silver Spring, have been discovered the re- 
mains of immense whales and other marine mon- 
sters. 

On the return journey the daylight and night 
reaches are reversed and the traveler finds a 
double interest in the voyage. 

From Silver Springs there is a railroad connec- 
tion with Ocala (6 m.) from where all parts of 
the State can easilv be reached. 



JACKSONVILLE TO TALLAHASSEE AND 
PENSACOLA 

(Via Seaboard Air Line — ^369 m., 14 hrs.) 

Tallahassee to St. Mark's; Tallahassee to Carrabelle, 
Fla., and Cuthbert, Ga.; River Junction to Apa- 
lachicola; Cottondale to Panama City; DeFuniak 
Springs to Florala. 

Leaving Jacksonville from the Union Station, 
the train soon traverses a most uninteresting sec- 
tion. There are unattractive shanties of small 
settlers and long stretches of pine woods with 
scrub palmetto growing sparsely over the 
ground ; here and there a cypress swamp, and an 
occasional road, stretching away through the pine 
trees, catches the eye. After passing Mc- 
Clenny (28 m.) the St. Mary river is crossed. 
Sanderson (37 m. Hotel, see list). North of 
Olustee (47 m.) is Ocean Pond. Here there was 
an engagement during the Civil War. 

Lake City (59 m., pop., 5,032) is a thriving town 
in the midst of a more fertile country. Here the 
State Agricultural College is situated, and also an 
experiment station of the Department of Agri- 
culture is established here. The town is well 
shaded, attractive for residence and has the good 
climate of northern Florida. 

An A. C. L. branch line to the south connects 
with Lake City Junction (p. 254), where the 
Georgia Southern & Florida main line to Pa- 
latka has a station. White Springs (13 m.) to 
the northwest, on this line, is a health-resort fre- 
quented in the spring by tourists returning 
237 



238 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

North. The springs are one of the feeders of the 
Suwanee river. 

Ogden (65 m.) Welborn (70 m.) Hotels, see 
list. (A branch line from here extends to White 
Springs.) 

Houston (76 m.). Live Oak (81 m.) (A sta- 
tion on the A. C. L. and the L. O. & G. R. R., 
a junction point of importance.) An old settle- 
ment with nothing of special interest to the tour- 
ist. An excursion may be made via A. C. L. to 
Suwanee Springs 8 miles to the north, the first 
place of any importance on the Suwanee river 
after it leaves its source in the Okefenokee 
Swamp in Georgia, and winds down through 
Florida toward the Gulf of Mexico. (Hotels, see 
list.) 

The river is crossed at Ellaville (95 m.), Lee 
(102 m.), West Farm (104 ni.), Madison (no 
m.) is where the Florida Normal Institute is lo- 
cated. (Hotels, see list.) 

From Madison the Geo. & Fla. R. R. runs 
northward through Hanson (8 m.) and Pinetta 
(11 m.) to Valdosta, Ga. (29 m.). 

Greenville (123 m. Hotels, see list). From 
here the Greenville Southern R. R. runs to 
Fowler (2 m.) and Myrick (5 m.). 

The Ancilla river is crossed. Ancilla (130 
m.), Drifton (138 m.) A. S. A. L. branch line runs 
to Monticello (4 m.) situated on Lake Miccosu- 
kee, a favorite winter resort. The roads in the 
neighborhood are very good. (Hotels, see list.) 
Lloyds (147 m.) (Hotels, see list). Capetota 
(148 m.) Chaires (153 m.) 



JACKSONVILLE TO TALLAHASSEE 239 

Tallahassee (165 m., pop. 5,018) 275 ft. above 
sea level, the capital of Florida, was founded at 
the time it was chosen as the territorial capital, 
by the commissioners appointed in 1821, after the 
cession by Spain to the United States. It is 
charmingly situated on a hill. From its broad 
and shaded streets views are obtained over distant 
hills or over flat-woods towards the Gulf Coast. 

Tallahassee in the Indians' tongue meant " old 
field," and they had evidently long occupied the 
site of the present city. The Spaniards appear 
to have once fortified a camp on a hill west of 
the town, probably in 1638. The old planta- 
tion mansion built here is called Fort San Luis. 
A piece of old Spanish armor found there may be 
see in the Public Library. 

The Indians were expelled during the First 
Seminole War (1818), and thereafter the country 
developed peacefully. It is the only part of Flor- 
ida in which a settled, aristocratic, cultivated 
society, resembling that of other plantation dis- 
tricts of the old South, existed in ante-bellum 
days. The old mansions, often admirable ex- 
amples of " colonial " architecture, which line its 
streets, date from this pleasant period. 

The State House is at the brow of the hill at 
the end of Main Street. It is an old structure of 
brick and stucco, with a stately portico, stand- 
ing in a fine grove. Some relics of the Civil War 
are to be seen within it. 

Spring comes in January in Tallahassee and the 
gardens teem with roses a little later. There are 
many planters still in the neighborhood ; the 
Winthrops, Crooms, Gambles and Lewis families 
have plantations. The roads are excellent in the 



240 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

vicinity, and the points of interest to visitors 
make pleasant destinations. There are many 
beautiful lakes within ten miles : Lakes Jackson, 
lomonia, Bradford, and Lake Lafayette; the last 
is situated on the estate that was granted to 
La Fayette by the U. S. in recognition of his 
friendly services. There is the usual good fresh 
water fishing in all these lakes. 

Belleair, six miles south of Tallahassee on the 
St. Mark's, was formerly the summer resort of the 
Tallahassee aristocracy. Little or nothing is left 
now of the houses which once knew delightful 
hospitality and gayety. 

An interesting and picturesque chapter in Tal- 
lahassee history is the long residence there of 
Prince Napoleon Achille Murat, son of the fa- 
mous Marshal and King of Naples and of the sis- 
ter of Napoleon. He came to America at the time 
of the Napoleonic exile, and, so tradition has it, 
having traveled widely through the United 
States, decided that the hill country of North 
Florida was the most beautiful he had seen. He 
settled in Tallahassee, which since it had been 
chosen as the territorial capital had already be- 
come the center of a pleasantly cultivated and 
aristocratic society. 

In 1826 a Mr. Willis from near Fredericksburg, 
Virginia, removed to Tallahassee. With him 
came his daughter Catherine. Her mother had 
been Mary Lewis, a niece of Washington. At 
the age of fifteen Catherine had been married to 
a Scotch neighbor named Gray. She was left a 
widow within a year in 1819. She was twenty- 
three when, with her father, she settled in a house 
in Monroe Street in the Florida capital. Prince 



JACKSONVILLE TO TALLAHASSEE 241 

Achille's courtship of her was immediate and 
short. They were married July 30th, 1826, and 
moved to Murat's plantation near the town. This 
was called Lipona, from his mother's title of 
Countess Lipona. 

At one period the Prince and Princess went to 
Europe, possibly meaning to live there. The 
Prince entered the Belgian military service, but 
was dismissed, so it was said, for fear that his 
popularity with the ex-Napoleonic soldiers would 
make him the center of a conspiracy. Reluc- 
tantly he said good-by to his command, and as 
a surprising proof of his versatility spoke his fare- 
wells in seven languages. 

For a time the Murats were in London, where 
they kncAV Louis Napoleon, then in exile there. 
They were also friends of Washington Irving and 
John Randolph of Roanoke. 

They came back, however, to Florida, and for 
a time lived at St. Augustine. It is probable 
that Louis Napoleon when he was in New York 
was on his way to visit them, when news of his 
mother's illness called him suddenly back to 
Europe. 

Prince Achille, who was always brilliant and 
erratic, now determined to study law. He went 
to New Orleans, formed a partnership with a M. 
Garnier and lived for a time near Baton Rouge; 
but ultimately he came back to Tallahassee, 
where he died in '47. 

When Louis Napoleon became Emperor of the 
French he did not forget " Cousin Catherine " in 
Florida. ■ He made her an allowance, and he in- 
vited her to Paris where she saw court life pleas- 
antly and intimately. She preferred, however. 



242 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

to come back to Tallahassee, where after her hus- 
band's death she had bought the unpretentious 
house and plantation of Bellevue near the town. 
Here she lived till her death in '66, when she was 
buried by her husband's side in the Episcopal 
churchyard of the town. Among the many ro- 
mantic stories of royal refugees in the great Re- 
public of the West this seems not the least inter- 
esting, an odd coupling of the great cities of the 
old world with pretty, remote little Tallahassee 
sitting on its pleasant Floridian hill. 
^ Wakulla Springs is one of the most beautiful in 
Florida, and should not be missed. It is reached 
by a drive of fifteen miles from Tallahassee, is 
over 100 feet deep, of crystalline transparency and 
surrounded by a beautiful forest growth of oaks 
and magnolias and bays with twining trum- 
pet and fragrant jasmine vines and with the 
long, graceful Spanish moss in festoons every- 
where. 

About Tallahassee, is good shooting country 
and many winter residents come there for field 
sports regularly. An organized fox hunt has 
been in existence for over twenty-five years, and 
there are many exciting runs during the season. 
South of Tallahassee, in an impenetrable tangle 
of undergrowth and swamp, legend locates the 
famous Wakulla volcano. It is asserted that a 
column of smoke can often be seen, issuing from 
some subterranean fissure or some burning spring, 
which no explorer has ever been able to reach. 
For decades there has been discussion over this 
matter, but although reliable witnesses constantly 
attest the smoke's existence the mystery remains 
a mystery. (Hotels, see list.) 



JACKSONVILLE TO TALLAHASSEE 243 

A. S. A. L. branch line runs to St. Mark's (20 
m.), St. Mark's Junction (4 m.), Bellair [here 
the hne from Tallahassee to Covington (26 m ) 
diverges. Its stations are Corey, Rose, Wacissa, 
Leonton and Covington; this line is to be con- 
tinued to Perry], Lutterlok (7 m.), Woodville 
(10 m.), Varcen (11 m), Wakulla (16 m.) The 
springs are 4 m. east, from the stations. St. 
Mark s (20 m.) is at the mouth of the St. Mark's 
river, and from Port Leon, 2 miles further it is 
not far to St. Mark's Light. Boats can be hired 
for a trip up the river to Wakulla Springs or for 
a sail on the bay. A peculiarity of this river is 
that It flows for part of its course underground 
disappearing in a cave and emerging further along 
with the same volume of flow. The Georgia 
Florida & Alabama R. R. runs from Tallahassee 
to Carrabelle (50 m.) through Springhill (14 m ) 
• Arran (24 m.), the station for Crawfordville the 
county seat of Wakulla, Ashmore (31 m.), Curtis 
Mills {Z7 m.), Lanark (45 m.), opposite which in 
the waters of St. George's Sound is a large spring, 
Carrabelle (50 m.), a port town at the mouth of 
Crooked river, on St. James Island, with local 
tishing and lumber interests. From here a 
steamer runs through St. George's Sound to 
Apalachicola (28 m.). The stations north from 
Tallahassee are : Saxon (4 m.), Jackson (9 m) on 
a beautiful lake; Gibson (12 m.), Havana (17 m.) 
where the Quincy branch line joins; Hinson (18 
m.) ; and the terminus Cuthbert, Ga. (106 m.). 

The way on leaving Tallahassee is through a 
farming country interspersed with lakes and 
woodlands. Ocklocknee (173 m.) is at the cross- 



244 . A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

ing of the Ocklocknee river. There are beautiful 
groves of oak and magnolia, and tobacco planta- 
tions can be seen. 

Lawrence (174 m.), Midway (177 m.), Quincy 
(189 m.)^ an old town with wide streets and old 
Southern mansions. The tobacco growing inter- 
ests here were developed largely by Alsatian 
labor. Here is found kaolin, large shipments of 
■this valuable porcelain-making substance being 
made from Quincy. From here a branch line of 
the Ga., Fla. & Ala. R. R. runs by Cory (2 m.), 
Littman (4 m.) and Florence (6 m.) to Havana 
(IP m.). 

Gretna (194 m.). Mount Pleasant (197 m.y. 
River Junction (208 m.) on the Apalachicola 
river is an interesting station. The Flint and 
Chattahoochie rivers unite to form this river two 
miles above the station. There is a long trestle 
and bridge crossing the river. (Hotels, see list.) 
Connection is made here for Apalachicola by 
steamers. The A. C. L. branch from Thomasville 
and the North ends at River Junction. 

From River Junction the Apalachicola North- 
ern R. R. runs to Apalachicola (80 m.). Its gen- 
eral direction is southerly and it passes through 
a well-watered agricultural district with moderate 
forestation. The stations are, Dolan (8 m.), 
Greensboro (13 m.), Juniper (14 m.), Guest (17 
m.), Hosford (26 m.) on Pitman's Creek. The 
Teluga river is crossed at Evans (29 m.). The 
New river is crossed, then we pass through 
Trump (34 m.), Sumatra (56 m.). Fort Gadsen J 
(61 m.), and Beverly (67 m.). An arm of Apa- 
lachicola Bay and a river are crossed, and then the 



JACKSONVILLE TO TALLAHASSEE 245 

wide Apalachicola river to Apalachicola (80 m., 
pop. 3,065). This is a flourishing town with fish- 
ing and lumber industries, situated at the mouth 
of the river on the bay. Connection from here 
with Carrabelle (p. 243) and with St. Andrew's 
Bay and Pensacola by steamer. 

Sneads (239 m.), is a station much used by 
sportsmen, the fishing and shooting being good 
in the neighborhood. It is a camping region in 
the midst of well-forested country through whicli 
are scattered many lakes ; among them Lake Cyr, 
Lake Ochesee, and Dead Lalce. Deer, tur^cey, 
quail and duck may all be counted in the day'-s 
bag. At Mariana (234 m.) on the Chipola river, 
the State Reform School is located. (A branch 
line runs to the southwest to Blountsville on the 
Apalachicola river.) Near here the Chipola 
river, a navigable stream, passes out of sight un- 
derground, and reappears a mile further on. An 
immense cavern marks the upper end of this 
course, its walls coming down to the water's edge. 
Four miles from Mariana is a cave with stalactites 
and stalagmites of great beauty. Long Moss 
Spring, also near, sends out from the ground a 
stream of clear wholesome water, forming the 
source of a large creek. At Cottondale (244 m.), 
the line to St. Andrew's Bay crosses. This is a 
part of the State that was exploited some thirty 
years ago in a way that brought great discredit to 
Florida, settlers being brought here by misrep- 
resentations. It is to be regretted that the same 
methods for inducing immigration to land unfitted 
for cultivation, or for homes, is still going on in 
other parts of the State. 



246 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

From Cottondale, on the Atlantic & St. An- 
drew's Bay R. R., the stations to the north are: 
Welchton (5 m.), Jacobs (7 m.), Campbellton (11 
m.) and State Line (15 m.). The terminus is at 
Dothan, Ala., (31 m.). To the south the stations 
are: Steel City (5 m.), Alvords (7 m.), Round 
Lake (10 m.), Compass Lake (15 m.), Spann's 
Siding (21 m.), Fountain (22 m.), German Ameri- 
can (27 m.), Youngstown (30 m.), Bear Creek 
(33 m.), Mill Bayou (44 m.) and Panama City 
(52 m.), on St. Andrew's Bay. 

Chipola (253 m.) has springs of health-giving 
water. There is also a little cascade, " Falling 
Water," and a hillside strewn with huge rocks 
seemingly flung by Titan hands. Holmes Creek 
is crossed. Carysville (267 m.) is a milling point 
on the Choctowhatchee river, and a shipping 
point for cotton and cane. Westville (276 m.) 
is in a game country. Ponce de Leon (282 m.) 
has a beautiful spring. 

De Funiak Springs (290 m., pop. 2,017, 270 ft. 
elevation) is situated on a high tableland twenty 
miles from the Gulf of Mexico. The country 
around is well forested, and this has been a 
popular winter resort for many years. The 
springs which first attracted visitors, are a mile 
in circumference, almost perfectly circular, and 
sixty feet deep. The water is clear and spar- 
kling chalybeate and of great benefit to anemic 
and overworked people. The park surrounding 
the spring is very attractive. There was a flour- 
ishing Chautauqua here in 1887, and a Hunt and 
Fox Chase Association. A normal school is lo- 
cated at De Funiak Springs. There are many 




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JACKSONVILLE TO PENSACOLA 247 

pleasant excursions, and the pine woods, oak and 
magnolia hammocks, little rivers and lakes, make 
diversified country through which to drive and 
motor. The roads are good. (Hotels, see list.) 

From De Funiak Springs a branch line runs 
northward to Florala, Ala. {26 m.). The stations 
are: Auburn (5 m.), Caledonia (9 m.), Campton 
(10 m.), Pineway (13 m.), Falco Junction (14 
m.), Williamson (15 m.). Laurel Hill (17 m.), 
Cowan's (20 m.), Svea (21 m.), Hoogstract (22 
m.), by Jackson's Pond on the right to Florala, 
Ala., (26 m.). 

The way now lies past unimportant stations to 
Crestview (319 m.). For forty miles the road 
runs through primeval forest, pines, magnolias 
and oaks, and blackjack woods. Blackwater 
river is crossed and Milton (349 m.), the county 
seat, is reached. A long bridge (2J m.) over the 
bay is crossed. 

Gull Point (362 m.) is reached. This was the 
place where the first Territorial Legislature was 
held and it is noted for its magnificent live-oaks. 
The railroad follows the shore, on the right are 
high bluffs of parti-colored clay, water-furrowed 
and worn, with here and there grassy slopes inter- 
spersed. On the left are the beautiful waters of 
Escambia Bay. 

Magnolia Bluff (366 m.) is an attractive little 
settlement. The bay is broad and beautiful, and 
a network of waterways and bayous all find their 
outlet here. Bayou Texas is crossed. 

Pensacola (369 m.) 22,982 pop., is situated on 
Pensacola Bay, a beautiful sheet of water, 37 



248 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

miles long, averaging three in width. It is land- 
locked and the safest harbor on the Gulf or South 
Atlantic. Pensacola, though not greatly visited 
by tourists, is a very important city, and histor- 
ically, with the exception of St. Augustine, the 
most interesting town in Florida. It was for 
centuries the capital and administrative center 
of the province of West Florida. Old books are 
full of gossip about its early days, and curiously 
enough, the Canadian archives at Ottawa contain 
much interesting material concerning the period 
of the English occupation. 

Pensacola Bay was probably first visited by 
Europeans in 1516. Some of De Soto's men were 
here in 1536. In 1558 Guido de Labazares, after 
exploring the coast, reported Pensacola to the 
Governor of Cuba as a suitable place for coloniza- 
tion. It was not till 1696, however, that a settle- 
ment was actually made. Don Andre d'Arriola 
took possession and built Fort San Carlos, the 
ruins of which were near Fort Barrancas on the 
Island of Santa Rosa, where for a long time the 
town was located. The young colony was in con- 
stant difficulties with the French in neighboring 
Louisiana. In 1719 Pensacola, after having been 
three times captured and recaptured during a 
period of three months, was burned and aban- 
doned. In 1722 it was again occupied. Later the 
site on Santa Rosa island was felt to be unsatis- 
factory and during the period between 1743 and 
1763 the inhabitants gradually built on the main- 
land north of the bay. In 1763 this part was laid 
out as a city, with streets at right angles, and 
a regular garden allotment in the suburbs for 
each householder in the town. 



JACKSONVILLE TO PENSACOLA 249 

In 1762 along- with the rest of Florida, Pensa- 
cola became British, and flourished beyond what 
it had done under Spanish rule. The oldest build- 
ing in Pensacola is the remains of the kitchen and 
storehouse of William Panton's house. Panton, 
Leslie & Co. was a famous Scotch house in Lon- 
don, with branches at St. Augustine, later at 
Pensacola and Mobile, and also in the West In- 
dies. Their trade with the Indians extended as 
far as Tennessee. Long trains of pack-horses 
left Pensacola with supplies and brought back 
skins, peltry, beeswax, honey, dried venison, etc. 
When Florida was ceded back to Spain in 1784, 
even the Spanish authorities felt the importance 
of keeping William Panton in Pensacola. A 
treaty was made with him as a quasi-sovereign. 
He was allowed to remain without turning Ro- 
man Catholic, a condition exacted of other Brit- 
ish who wished to stay. Panton was a great 
friend of the famous Indian chief Alexander Mc- 
Gillivray, whose influence for so long kept the 
Indian trade for Pensacola. McGillivray was the 
son of a Scotch father and an Indian mother, a 
half-breed Creek princess whose father had been 
a French officer of Spanish descent. He was ed- 
ucated at Charleston, but at his majority returned 
to his mother's people when he became a real 
king, able to put 10,000 warriors into the field and 
living in half barbaric pomp. He sided with the 
British in the Revolutionary War and long after 
from the Spanish territory planned raids in the 
western country. Finally he concluded peace, 
making a trip in great state to New York for a 
personal conference with Washington. He ob- 
tained Creek lands which had been confiscated, a 



250 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

payment of $100,000 and a commission for him- 
self as major general in the United States army. 
He is a picturesque figure of early days, and his 
connection with Pensacola makes him worth men- 
tioning here. He was buried in William Pan- 
ton's garden. 

In 1781 a Spanish expedition captured Pensa- 
cola from the English, but 1784 this occupation 
was legalized by the cession of the whole prov- 
ince to Spain. 

During the War of 1812 the Spanish authorities 
allowed the British to occupy the town and from 
it to carry on the campaign against the United 
States. General Jackson promptly advanced into 
Florida and seized Pensacola. He made war 
upon the Indians through the whole of North 
Florida. But after he had retired to the famous 
defense of New Orleans, all of West Florida be- 
came again a mere confusion of filibusters, run- 
away slaves, British agents, — a disorderly and 
lawless place. Jackson again invaded it and in 
1818 again seized Pensacola. In 1819 the occupa- 
tion was confirmed by the cession to the United 
States by Spain. Jackson was appointed the first 
governor and it was to him at Pensacola that the 
Spanish Governor publicly transferred the sover- 
eignty. The inhabitants had spent the preced- 
ing days and nights in a kind of carnival which 
much shocked Mrs. Jackson, who was with her 
husband and had had no previous experience of 
Latin light-heartedness. 

Pensacola did not suffer during the Seminole 
War. 

During the Civil War Fort Pickens, though in- 
vested by a strong Confederate force which had 



JACKSONVILLE TO TALLAHASSEE 251 

possession of the town and the navy yard, was 
never captured and the Confederate flag never 
flew over it. In 1862 the. Southern forces retired 
to the defense of Mobile, and made no serious at- 
tempt afterwards to secure possession of the 
Florida town. 

Since war times Pensacola's history has been 
one of commercial development. It is in the cen- 
ter of an important lumber region, and it is also 
a very important fish market. Its shipping trade 
is large, and lines of steamers run from it to Gulf, 
Atlantic and trans-Atlantic ports. 

The names of Pensacola's streets and squares 
are, many of them, reminiscent of the town's his- 
tory. Charles Square was named for Charles II. 
Palafox Street was called after the defender of 
Saragossa against the French in 1808. Baylen 
Street is from Baylen, a small town on the road 
from Cadiz to Cordova, where General Dupont 
surrendered to the Spanish after his plunder of 
Cordova. Alcaniz Street and Romana Street re- 
call other Spanish heroes, and Tarragona, a heroic 
defense. 

The Navy Yard and the forts upon Santa Rosa 
Island and near the town are the chief attrac- 
tions of Pensacola. Excursions upon its won- 
derful bay are delightful. West from the Navy 
Yard is Fort Barrancas and below Barrancas is 
the lighthouse. Some traces of the ruins of Fort 
McRae may be seen. Those of Fort Michael and 
Saint Bernard are supposed to date partly to the 
Spanish occupancy. 

Near by are Perdido and Escambia Bay. The 
Escambia river, which debouches, here, has been 
rightly called West Florida's Ocklawaha. 



252 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

The fishing in the fresh-water streams near 
here is said to be particularly good ; pike, black 
bass and trout abound, bream simply wait for the 
hook of the most unskilled angler. The bay 
abounds in red snapper, sea trout and pompano ; 
the last can be coaxed to a sportsmanlike battle 
for his life if the fisherman knows his book. The 
oysters in this region are excellent. The fishing 
boat landings are at the foot of Palafox Street. 

The San Carlos Hotel compares favorably with 
the luxurious hostelries of the East Coast. (Ho- 
tels, see list.) 

From Pensacola the P. A. & T. R. R. runs to 
Muscoque (15 m.). The Pensacola, St. Andrew's 
& Gulf S. S. Co. runs boats to St. Andrew's Bay, 
Apalachicola and Carrabelle, and there are 
steamers west to other Gulf ports. 

From Pensacola a branch line of the L. & N. 
R. R. runs northward to Flomaton, Ala. (44 m.), 
following the general course of the Escambia 
river. At Cantonment (4 m.) a branch line leads 
to Muscogee on the Perdido river. 

The Pensacola & Perdido R. R. runs to Mill- 
view (7 m.) from Pensacola. 




Palms 




Pensacola Light House 



JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 
(Via Atlantic Coast Line — 141 m., 9I hrs.) 

Palatka to Valdosta, Ga., 134 m.; Sanford to Lake 
Charm, 18 m.; Sanford to Trilby, 75 m.; Sanford 
to Leesburg, 50 m.; Kissimmee to Apopka, 33 m.; 
Kissimmee to Fort Bassenger (steamer), 100 m.; 
Kissimmee to Narcoossee, 15 m.; Chubb to Bar- 
tow, 17 m.; Tampa to Brooksville, 50 m. 

From Jacksonville towards Tampa by the way 
of Palatka, Sanford and Kissimmee, the journey 
is at first through a country of no special in- 
terest to the tourist. The St. John's river is to 
the east, but it is not often seen. There are 
tributary creeks with bordering forest growths, 
which are crossed. 

Wessner (4 m.) is the first station, then You- 
kon (10 m.). Orange Park (14 m.) is very pret- 
tily located at the northern end of Doctor's Lake, 
just at its outlet into the St. John's river. Doc- 
tor's Inlet (20 m.) is on the lake, then comes 
Russell's (24 m.). Green Cove Springs (28 m.) 
and Magnolia Springs (30 m.) are both attractive 
resorts on the St. John's river (see p. 219). 
Wallkill (38 m.), West Tocoi (40 m.), Bostwick 
(46 m.), Palatka (55 m.) on the St. John's river 
(see p. 219.). 

From Palatka the Ga. Southern & Fla. R. R. 
runs to Valdosta, Ga. (134 m.) The stations are : 
A. C. L. Junction (i m.), Wardburn (8 m.), Car- 
raway (11 m.), Baywoods (14 m.), Florahome 
(17 m.) at the northeast end of Lake Grandin. 
?53 



254 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Grandin (19 m.), Putnam Hall (22 m.), Lake 
Geneva (26 m.), Brooklyn (28 m.) and Theresa 
(32 m.). A picturesque stream is next crossed 
to Hampton (36 m.) at a S. A. L. crossing. 
Sampson City (42 m.) is on the shore of Lake 
Sampson, and a S. A. L. crossing. 

From Sampson City the Tampa & Jacksonville 
R. R. runs to Fairfield (48 m.). Its way is 
through a fertile part of northern Florida into 
the lake country, and it reaches a territory that 
is of interest to settlers, and to tourists who do 
not want the warmer winter to the south. It has 
the same attractions to offer that are found in 
other parts of Bradford, Alachua and Marion 
Counties. The stations are Graham (5 m.) on 
the Santa Fe river, Cyrill (7 m.), Bellamy (12 
m.), Ellithorpe (16 m.), A. C. L. Crossing (19 m.), 
Gainesville (20 m., see p. 276) a S. A. L. cross- 
ing. Cannon's (24 m.), Prairie Creek to the left; 
Rocky Point {2J m.), and Wacahoota (29 m.), 
Clyates (32 m.), Kirkwood (33 m.) and Tacoma 
(34 m.) are all on the north shore of Lake Levy. 
Micanopy (37 m.) is at its southeast end. Tus- 
cawilla (39 m.) is on a lake of the same name. 
Simonton (40 m.), Hickman (41 m.), South Side 
(42 m.), Dungarvin (43 m.), Irvine (45 m.), Fort 
Drane (46 m.) and Fairfield (48 m.). 

New River (49 m.), Lake Butler (53 m.) an 
A. C. L. crossing. Swift's Creek is crossed just 
before Guilford (58 m.), then the Olustee river, 
and Lulu (64 m.). Lake City (74 m.) is a rail- 
road center (see p. 237). Winfield (80 m.), Su- 
wanee Valley (83 m.). White Springs (86 m.), 



JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 255 

reached also from Wellborn and Live Oak (see 
p. 238). Winn (90 m.), Genoa (93 m.), Jasper 
(104 m.), an A. C. L. crossing. The Allapaha 
river is crossed to Avoca (no m.), Jennings 
(115 m.), just inside the State line, and Valdosta, 
Ga., (134 m.). 

On leaving Palatka the railroad crosses at Buf- 
falo Bluff (63 m.) to the east side of the river, 
and runs through a most prosperous section. 
Satsuma (64 m.), Sisco (66 m.), Pomona (69 m.), 
and Como (71 m.) are each situated on little lakes. 
Huntington (74 m.) has many orange groves. 

From Crescent City Junction (76 m.) a short 
connecting line runs to Crescent City on Lake 
Crescent (see p. 226). The v^ater protection af- 
forded to the citrus orchards by the numerous 
small lakes in this neighborhood lessens the dan- 
ger from frosts and so contributes much to its 
prosperity. Denver (y'j m.). Lake Louise lying 
to the west, Seville (83 m.), Preston (89 m.), 
Lake Disston seven miles to the east, Eldridge 
(92 m.) and Barbourville (94 m.) follow. 

At De Leon Springs (99 m.) there is a magnifi- 
cent spring, a large clear pool, from which flows 
a considerable stream. There are bathing 
houses, and a swim in the bubbling waters is 
a delightful experience, hard to match except in 
Florida. (Hotels, see list). 

Greenwood (102 m.) and Highland Park 
(104 m.) are followed by De Land Junction 
(109 m.) ; connection to De Land (4 m.), service 
four times daily each way. 

De Land (113 m., pop. 2,812), elevation 50 ft., 
county seat of Volusia County, is beautifully sit- 



256 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

uated on high pine land. The drainage is partic- 
ularly good, and lifegiving pines surround it in 
every direction. There is no body of stagnant 
water near, and the water supply is absolutely 
free from organic matter, analysis showing it 
to be most wholesome. The streets are shaded 
with beautiful trees, many of these forming 
arched roadways. The principal streets are 
paved, and the sidewalks are of concrete. Hard- 
surfaced roads lead in every direction to the prin- 
cipal points in the county, to the St. John's 
river only five miles to the west, and to Daytona 
and the Daytona and Ormond beach, twenty- 
five miles to the east. 

The business houses are well built, and on the 
shady avenues are many handsome residences 
of both winter people and those who make De 
Land a year-round home. There is an electric 
light plant, and the streets are well illuminated 
at night. There are newspapers and clubs and 
churches of many denominations. The school 
system is a most excellent one. John B. Stetson, 
of Philadelphia, for many years had his winter 
home near here. He endowed the John B. Stet- 
son University (Baptist, about 500 students), lo- 
cated at De Land, with adequate and attractive 
buildings. It was the founder's object to main- 
tain here an institution of learning that would 
not only be of service to the people of this town, 
but meet the requirements of those students 
whose studies would otherwise be interrupted by 
their visit to Florida. It includes a college of 
liberal arts, of law, of music, a business college, 
courses in electrical, mechanical and civil en- 
gineering. It has a faculty of well-chosen in- 



JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 257 

structors, and its standard is high. Its library is 
well endowed, and housed in a special building. 

De Land is a most popular place for a winter's 
visit, and it is large enough to afford pleasant 
social life. The influence of the University makes 
the standard of the preparatory schools high. 
Many Northern families live here because the 
educational facilities are so good. There is a 
comfortable opera house, and a lyceum course 
is conducted every winter. 

The pine lands surrounding the town have 
made the lumbering and turpentine interests ex- 
tensive in the neighborhood. The cleared land 
has been put under cultivation, and there is much 
rich hammock as well as high, rolling pine land. 
There are many well-kept orange groves about 
De Land, the Stetson grove being worth a spe- 
cial visit. The means employed to prevent the 
frost from hurting the trees and fruit are inter- 
esting, and also the arrangements for picking, 
cleaning, packing and shipping. The season for 
harvesting the crop — golden in color, but not 
always in money return — is from November un- 
til March. Grape fruit is fast becoming a factor 
in the products shipped. 

Volusia County is a ranking one in citrus fruit 
exports. The region is well adapted to peach 
growing, and the fruit is ready for market in 
May and early June. Pecan trees are being ex- 
tensively planted. There is good quail and dove 
shooting, and also within easy reach wild turkey 
and deer. Lake Beresford, the St. John's river, 
Lake Winnimisselte and Lake Helen are near by. 
Orange City can be reached by a good road (5 
m.). (Hotels, see list.) 



258 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Leaving De Land Junction, Beresford (no m.) 
and several small settlements are passed. At 
Orange City Junction (112 m.) a branch line of 
the F. E. C. Railway from Nev^ Smyrna (27 m.) 
ends (see p. 143). 

From Enterprise Junction (118 m.) Enterprise 
(4 m.) can be reached by the F. E. C. Railway's 
branch from Titusville to Sanford (p. 229). At 
Monroe (121 m.) the railroad crosses the St. 
John's river, just as it leaves Lake Monroe, and 
follows the shore of the lake to Sanford (125 m.), 
the center of extensive celery growing and of 
several branch railroads. 

A branch of the F. E. C. Railway runs from 
Sanford to Titusville (p. 152). A branch of the 
A. C. L. goes to Lake Charm (18 m.) to the 
south, passing Fort Reed (3 m.), Onoro (4 m.), 
Rutledge (5 m.), skirting the southwestern end 
of Lake Jesup and turning to the southeast, after 
Tuscaville (10 m.) and Oviedo (17 m.), (Hotels, 
see list), also a station on the S. A. L., it reaches 
Lake Charm (18 m.). 

A branch of the A. C. L. runs to Trilby (75 m.) 
through the lake country most of the way. 
Sylvan Lake (6 m.), Paoli (8 m.), where the A. C. 
L. branch line to Tavares and Leesburg is 
crossed; Island Lake (9 m.), Glen Ethel (12 m.), 
Palm Springs (14 m.), another A. C. L. crossing, 
Forest City (17 m.), Toronto (19 m.), where the 
A. C. L. from Wildwood to Lake Charm is 
crossed; Lakeville (22 m.), Clarcona (24 m.), an 
A. C. L. branch to the south crosses ; Fuller's 
(28 m.) and Crown Point (29 m.). Winter Gar- 



JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 259 

den (31 m. Hotels, see list), on the south 
shore of Lake Apopka, Tildenville (32 m.), Oak- 
land (33 m.), lying between Apopka and John's 
Lakes. Minneola (42 m.) and Clermont (44 m.) 
are between two smaller lakes. Yarn's Crossing 
(46 m.), Taylorsville (50 m.), Mascotte (53 m.), 
and the lake region is left and the hammock and 
pine country with some swamps begins. Cedar 
Hammock (61 m.), Linden (62 m.), Tarrytown 
(63 m.), a branch of the Withlacoochee river is 
crossed, Pineland (68 m.) Trilby (75 m., see 
p. 311)- 

A branch of the A. C. L. runs from Sanford to 
Tavares and Leesburg, 50 m. The country is 
well settled and very prosperous. There are 
many lakes, much fine pine forest, and many 
hammocks of fine old trees. New Upsala (3 m.), 
Twin Lake (4 m.), Paoli (6 m.), where another 
branch crosses. Tufts (9 m.), Wekiva Creek is 
crossed. Cassia (13 m.), Lovejoy's Mills (17 m.), 
Sorrento (19 m.). Mount Dora (24. m., Hotels, 
see list) ; Tavares (30 m.), also a station on the 
S. A. L., Eustis (31 m.), a thriving little town 
where the Presbyterian College is located, and 
there are many winter residents. (Hotels, see 
list.) From Fort Mason (36 m.) a branch to 
Astor on the St. John's river, (25 m., p. 228), 
starts. Grand Island (38 m.), Lisbon (41 m.). 
Orange Bend (50 m.), Leesburg (50 m., p. 280) 
with A. C. L. connections north, south and west, 
is also a station on the S. A. L. 

From Sanford the railroad passes through the 
well-known lake country. Though the elevation 



26o A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

in Florida is nowhere very great, it is sufficient 
in this region, and there is enough undulation to 
the ground to insure good drainage. The high 
pine land responds quickly to culture. There are 
some flat lands unfitted for cultivation, but the 
pine trees thrive well. There is much rich ham- 
mock land, covered with beautiful and valuable 
timber, and near the lakes are very fertile muck 
lands. Every variety of vegetable and fruit, 
whose habitat is just at the frost line, can be 
grown, and the citrus groves in this part of the 
country are famous. Many attractive winter set- 
tlements may be found in this section. 

Lake Mary (131 m.) and Longwood (135 m.) 
are followed by Altamonte Springs (138 m.), 
situated in pine forests and with a climate partic- 
ularly beneficial to invalids. It is a popular re- 
sort, and out-of-door life, with fishing and shoot- 
ing, driving and riding, claims the time of the 
visitors. (Hotels, see list.) Maitland (147 m.) 
is a similar resort, and has many winter visitors. 
(Hotels, see list.) 

Winter Park (143 m.) is one of the best known 
of the resorts in the lake region. Rollins Col- 
lege is located here. The country around is roll- 
ing, and the air is redolent with the balmy fra- 
grance of the pine woods. Magnolias flower, and 
the woods are carpeted in spring with blossoms. 
In the hammocks the ferns grow lushly, and the 
brakes sometimes top a man's height. All sorts 
of out-of-door sports claim the visitor. Fishing 
and shooting are both to be had. Songbirds, espe- 
cially the mockingbird, are found in great num- 
bers, and long-legged water birds make accents 
in the picture on the edge of the lakes. The 



JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 261 

lakes are charming for boating excursions, and 
a day spent with a luncheon and tea basket and 
a camera brings its own reward. Guides, boats, 
and horses and vehicles can be obtained. 
(Hotels, see list.) 

Orlando (148 m., pop. 3,894) is the county seat 
of Orange county. Its situation is particularly 
beautiful in the midst of a fertile country. The 
little cluster of houses of the early days (1880) 
has grown to be one of the most important of the 
smaller cities of Florida. All about the shores 
of the lakes — Lake Lucerne, Lake Sue, Lake 
Winnie and Lake Eola — are winter residences 
surrounded by beautiful gardens, shaded by live- 
and water-oaks. To these, with their festoons of 
Spanish moss, in great contrast are the palmet- 
toes, the date and sago palms, the chinaberry, 
pines and camphor trees. The gardens are 
filled with semi-tropical plants, flowers and 
fruits. 

Located on the ridge — the backbone of the 
State, there is a total absence of fog. The many 
lakes temper the climate both in winter and sum- 
mer. The water supply is, as in almost all Flor- 
ida towns, of great excellence. There is an elec- 
tric light plant and gas works. The town has a 
most substantial business district. The streets 
are paved with vitrified brick, and a hard-surfaced 
driveway and a shell walk skirts Lake Lucerne, 
from which the views are very attractive. Many 
of the residences are built in the plantation style, 
with wide shaded verandas on every side. 

The Northern element predominates in the 
town, as is manifest from the architecture and 
the many civic federations here. There are 



262 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

churches of various demoninations, fraternal 
orders and social clubs, baseball and polo clubs, 
a driving park where races are run every winter 
and where golf links are laid out. Tennis and 
boating both have their followers. In the neigh- 
borhood is good quail shooting, and some water 
game birds. There is an annual Motor Parade, 
and a Water Carnival. In the former the parade 
of flower-decked and allegorical cars makes an 
attractive pageant; in the latter, the illuminated 
walks and lake boulevards, the mock naval battle, 
the drifting boats with their many-colored lights, 
make a very interesting picture. 

Hard-surfaced roads lead in every direction 
into the country, and driving or motoring brings 
the visitor in touch with the rich tributary to 
Orlando. Orange is the leading county in Flor- 
ida in the number of citrus trees growing, and 
of boxes of fruit shipped. Her share of the State's 
5,000,000 boxes in 191 1 was about 750,000 boxes. 
In addition to citrus culture, there are large 
areas in vegetables, and other fruits. Visits to 
the farms near Orlando are of special interest 
because of the scientific methods employed by the 
farmers, usually men who have retired from 
active work, whose energies are all expended in 
beautifying and developing their new homes. 
Plantations of bananas are found near Orlando, on 
the moist lands of some of the lake shores. The 
variety grown here is a large one, and the plants 
are sometimes eighteen feet tall. The Florida 
Sanitarium is located near Orlando between two 
lakes. It is under the charge of the Seventh Day 
Adventists, and is conducted on the same hy- 
gienic lines that make the one at Battle 



JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 263 

Creek, Michigan, so successfuL (Hotels, see 
list.) 

Leaving Orlando, the elevation gradually les- 
sens. Jessamine (154 m.) is near two lakes, the 
one to the east, Lake Conway, extending almost 
to Pine Castle (155 m.). Big Cypress (156 m.), 
Taft (158 m.), MacKinnon (161 m.), Marydea 
(163 m.), — and the flat country has been reached, 
with prairie land alternating with pine wood. 

Kissimmee (165 m., pop. 2,157) is the county 
seat of Osceola county. It is situated on the 
north shore of Lake Tohopekaliga, a large and 
beautiful body of water. Kissimmee is still on 
the ridge, or the end of the Florida real mainland. 
The town's elevation is 65 feet, and from here 
south the water drains through the Everglades 
to the Gulf of Mexico, the Bay of Florida, and to 
the series of lagoons and sounds on the east from 
Gilbert's Bar to the end of the Florida peninsula. 
Kissimmee was for many years the only acces- 
sible settlement from which sportsmen could 
make excursions to the rich hunting grounds in 
these almost unknown regions. Then the culti- 
vation of sugar cane was begun, at Saint Cloud 
near Kissimmee, and much sugar is now raised. 
With the coming of more visitors the great fer- 
tility of the land became known, and the town be- 
gan to grow. 

The climate is "most equable, and the water pro- 
tection of Lake Tohopekaliga tempers both sum- 
mer heat and winter cold. It is said that the chil- 
dren in Kissimmee never wear shoes until in their 
teens. The nights are always cool, the days 
full of sunshine. Settlers have begun to culti- 
vate the rich lands all about, so that the local mar- 



264 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

kets are exceptionally good. Game of all kinds 
abounds. Many cattle graze through the rich 
woodland, and over the valley prairie lands, w^ith 
rich pasturage, w^ell-bred hogs roam with native 
" razor-backs." 

The death rate is exceptionally low — ^ 3 in 
1,000. Kissimmee has good water, an ice factory, 
•electric light plant and telephone system. The 
streets are marled, a mode of surfacing that 
makes a good road. These marled roads are be- 
ing extended out into the country, and lead to 
many interesting places. 

The citrus fruits, guavas, sugar-apples, bread- 
fruit, almonds, pineapples and bananas, all grow 
luxuriously. Small fruits and vegetables, shrubs 
and flowers, semi-tropical jungles, luxuriant 
palms and wholesome pines make up an environ- 
ment that is full of charm, and the usual flat- 
ness of Florida landscapes is modified by the al- 
ternation of prairies, with little streams and 
lakes, hammocks and wide stretching pine up- 
land, which makes an excursion pleasant and in- 
teresting. 

The schools, as in almost all parts of Florida, 
are good. There are clubs and fraternal orders, 
and churches of various denominations. 

The experiments in sugar cultivation that were 
started here by the Disstons of Philadelphia 
failed. Ignorance of the conditions to be met 
and the insect pests of summer were the cause. 
(Hotels, see list.) 

Steamers ply from Kissimmee south acro>ss". 
Lake Tohopekaliga to Fort Bassenger on the Kis- 
simmee (100 m.), making weekly trips, leaWng 
Kissimmee on Tuesday 7.00 a. m., and arriving at 




In the Lake Country 




o 
Q 



JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 265 

Fort Bassenger on Wednesday evening; return- 
ing, leaving Thursday at 7.00 a. m., and arriving 
at Kissimmee on Friday evening. Boats can be 
chartered to make special trips from Fort Bassen- 
ger to Lake Okeechobee, the Caloosahatchie 
river, and Fort Myers. 

Lake Tohopekaliga is easily crossed. The 
Kissimmee river has been dredged and the boats 
go from there to Cypress Lake. Another nat- 
ural channel has been dredged to Lake Hatchi- 
neha which connects with Lake Kissimmee, an 
extensive sheet of water 15 miles long, by from 
one to six wide, of shoal depth, at an altitude of 
58 feet. Near the south end of the lake is an 
island on which most interesting aboriginal re- 
mains have been found. The river issues from 
the south end of the lake and flows on to Lake 
Okeechobee. Fort Bassenger is passed, the end 
of the journey 20 miles from the lake. The site 
of old Fort Kissimmee is passed. This, with Fort 
Bassenger, was occupied in the Seminole War — 
unimportant places now, but their names recalling 
the days of the Indians' power and their present 
condition symbolizing their present decadence. 

An A. C. L. branch runs from Kissimmee to 
Apopka (33 m.) 2 ^ hours. From Kissimmee the 
road runs northwest, passing Shingle Creek 
(4 m.) and crossing to Orange county just before 
reaching McLane's (9 m.). Englewood (12 m.) 
is at the lower end of a charming lake, which the 
railroad now skirts on the west side. At the head 
of the lake is Isleworth (17 m.). To the west is 
Lake Butler with Windemere (20 m.) on its east 
shore. Gotha (21 m.) is followed by Minerville 



2(£ A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

(22 m.). Ocoee (24 m.) and Villanova (26 m.). 
At Clarcona (29 m.) the A. C. L. from Sanford 
to Trilby connects (p. 258). Apopka (33 m.) is 
the terminus of the branch and a station on the 
S. A. L. from Wildwood to Orlando (p. 261). 

A branch of the A. C. L. to Narcoossee (15 m. 
f hr.,) runs through interesting farming country 
to the cane plantations about East Lake Tohope- 
kaliga. Hammock Grove (2 m.), Hertzel (3 m.), 
Carolina (5 m.). The way then crosses the canal 
connecting the two lakes, St. Cloud Junction, Peg- 
horn (6 m.) with a connection to St. Cloud (9 m.), 
a sugar-raising settlement on the south shore of 
the lake. (Hotel, see list.) Ashton (10 m.), 
Runnymede (13 m.), Narcoossee (15 m.). 

Leaving Kissimmee the way passes through 
Campbell's (170 m.) and Loughman's (175 m.), 
the center of a good shooting and fishing district. 
Much camping is done in this neighborhood. 
Outfits and supplies can be bought at Kissimmee. 
(Hotels, see list.) Davenport (182 m.), Haines 
(185 m.), Chubb or Bartow Junction (193 m.) 
are the next stations. 

An A. C. L. line from Chubb to Bartow (17 m., 
I hr.) runs through a most beautiful lake country. 
The elevation is from 150 to 200 feet, and there 
are long stretches of upland pine forests and 
many orange groves in a high state of cultivation. 
Cottages and villas abound — the winter homes 
of visitors. Florence Villa (4 m.) is the station 
for Florence Villa, the hotel which is the center 



JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 267 

of the winter colony here. It was originally the 
home of Dr. f- W. Inman, and is situated in a 
park of 26 acres, and has a grove of 600 acres of 
citrus fruits, through which there are well-kept, 
hard-surfaced roads. There is every modern 
convenience in the hotel. The farm, gardens and 
dairy contribute to the cuisine. Plantation life 
is part of the hotel's offerings to its guests. 
There is a well-equipped stable and garage, and 
on the lake a fleet of l)oats for hire. East of the 
hotel is a garden full of semi-tropical flora. 
South and west are pine forests and a chain of 
lakes. To the north are acres of orange groves, 
with woodland and lakes beyond. Winter Haven 
(5 m.) is an attractive little town, with good 
schools. Motoring, driving, fishing and boating 
are the out-of-door amusements. Social life in 
this environment is particularly pleasant. 
(Hotel, see list.) Eagle Lake (9 m.) is on the 
east shore of Eagle Lake. Gordonville (12 m.) is 
the next station. Fort Carroll was located two 
miles from here on a small stream which the rail- 
road crosses to Excelsior Park (13 m.). Bartow 
(17 m.) is the end of the line, and the junction 
with the line from Lakeland to Punta Gorda a::d 
Fort Myers. 

Leaving Chubb, the next stations are Auburn- 
dale (198 m.) and Carter's (203 m.). Lakeland 
(209 m.) is a most prosperous town, well-planned, 
with a central park space and surrounded by 
lakes. Its altitude, 210 feet, is the highest in 
Southern Florida. Forest trees of great beauty 
abound. Hard-surfaced roads lead from it in 
many directions. The growing of strawberries 



268 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

about its neighborhood is a very extensive in- 
dustry. (Hotels, see list.) ^ 

The A. C. L's main West Florida road from 
Waycross, Ga., and from Jacksonville by way of 
Croom, crosses here en route to Fort Myers. 

The country here is suited to the growing of 
vegetables and berries, a closely-packed soil 
holding moisture well. Flat woods extend to- 
ward Winston (211 m.). An A. C. L. branch 
line runs from Winston to Tiger Bay (24 m.). 
The stations are: Medulla (5 m.). Bone Valley 
(9 m.), so named from the many phosphate-bear- 
ing vertebrate remains found there; Mulberry 
(10 m.), with a connection to the northeast to 
Pebbles (3 m.) ; Kingsford (14 m.), Phosphoria 
(18 m.), with a connection to Bartow (9 m.) ; 
Tiger Bay (24 m.). 

After Winston is Youman's (214 m.). From 
Plant City (218 m.), record shipments of straw- 
berries are made, and this industry centers here. 
Its interests are wholly commercial, and it is also 
a station on the S. A. L. Dover (224 m.), Seff- 
ner (228 m.). Orient (234 m.), Thonotosassa 
Junction (238 m.) 

An A. C. L. branch to Thonotosassa (11 m.) 
has direct service from Tampa. It is situated on 
a lake of the same name, " The Lake of the 
Flints," where in former times the aborigines 
foregathered and where their stone implements 
are still to be found. 

Ybor City (239 m.) is reached, then Tampa 
(241 m.), and then Tampa Bay Hotel (242 m.). 

Tampa (pop. 38,524) is the second city in both 
numerical and commerical importance in Florida, 
and is most interesting to the tourist. Its 



JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 269 

situation is ideal, twenty-five miles from the Gulf 
and at the head of Hillsboro Bay. Old Tampa 
Bay lies to the west, and the Hillsboro river runs 
through the town, separating the main city from 
West Tampa, a residential section. The water 
environment has a great influence upon climatic 
conditions, tempering extremes of heat and cold, 
and making the city more desirable as a year- 
round residence. 

The city is well-planned. The main streets are 
bordered with substantial buildings and the 
wholesale sections of the town present a busy 
aspect. The semi-tropical environment and the 
preponderance of Latin and colored people among 
the working classes give an exotic air to the 
place. It is one of the most foreign-appearing 
cities in the United States. It has many miles 
of good streets wath vitrified brick pavement, and 
there are more hard-surfaced roads in Hillsboro 
county than in any other in the State. Touring 
motoring is possible in its best form, and there 
are ample garage facilities. The water system, 
as everywhere in Florida, is excellent, the water 
extremely pure and entirely free from organic 
matter. The sanitary conditions are of the high- 
est order, and the death rate of the city ex- 
tremely low. 

The growth of the town has been phenomenal. 
For years Florida stood still, an unknown country 
to the outer world. The little town founded by 
De Reinoro, De Soto's lieutenant, was at first 
a Seminole camp, Tampa being the Indian word 
to express " split wood for quick fires." General 
Worth persuaded Coacoochee to leave Tampa 
with his Indians. A fort was established, and the 



270 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

officers' quarters, Old Fort Brook, are still stand- 
ing. The house is known as the Carew house. 
Scattered plantations were cultivated; cattle, 
cane, and cotton raised. The close of the Civil 
War established entirely new but not better con- 
ditions in Tampa. It was not until the removal 
of the cigar factories to Tampa that the town be- 
gan to prosper. The back country's development 
commenced with the opening of the saw mills, 
vast acres of pine lands and of hard wood timber 
giving ample material. Then came the discovery 
of the rich phosphate deposits, which were mined 
and shipped from this point in great quantities. 
Later the agricultural possibilities of the land 
throughout the country became known, and the 
settlers who have made such great successes of 
their truck farms, raising tons of celery and beans, 
of their citrus groves and of strawberry culture, 
were soon important contributing factors to the 
prosperity of the town. The sportsman's para- 
dise, on both sea and shore, of which Tampa is 
the center, has promoted her growth and ex- 
tended her fame. The 39,000 troops who were 
encamped here when Tampa was made the port 
of embarkation during the Spanish-American war, 
all disseminated knowledge of the place, and from 
that time Tampa's growth was most rapid. The 
increase in population during the last ten census 
years, 143 % in the town and 117% in the county, 
speaks for itself. 

The tourist will find here attractions of every 
sort. A perfect climate without fog or chill, 
makes out-of-door life easy and pleasant. There 
are churches and good schools, clubs, theaters, 
etc., and other municipal accompaniments. 



JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 271 

There is also a race course, and shooting, and 
fishing, and ideal cruising waters all about. 

The city has a 20-foot channel from the Gulf 
to the miles of docks on her water front. These 
docks are to the south and east of the town. The 
Hillsboro becomes a stream of idyllic beauty 
a little way up from its mouth. To the eastern 
end of the town, easily reached by street car, 
is Ybor City — "Little Havana" — a Spanish 
town which seems to have been transplanted 
bodily here. The 20,000 Latins who live here find 
employment in Tampa in her chief industry. It 
is by their aid that the millions of dollars ($15,- 
000,000) worth of manufactured tobacco and 
cigars are sent out annually. 

There is a note of the Antilles in the place — 
the construction of the barrack-like houses, the 
habit of living intimately with the public by 
means of open doors and wide-flung windows, the 
open air cafes, the casinos, restaurants and clubs, 
and the dances — the mystic alluring danzon, 
which is never forgotten if once seen — all ac- 
cent this note. A Spanish dinner with a dance 
afterward is an interesting experience. The 
gourmet will have new sensations at the feast — 
whether they are pleasing or not is a matter of 
taste ! 

In exactly the opposite direction is to be found 
the American life of the town that is most inter- 
esting to the tourist. From La Fayette street the 
bridge across the Hillsboro river to West Tampa 
is reached. The bridge itself affords a view of an 
attractive part of the river. Crossing and pass- 
ing along La Fayette street to the right, the 
north, City Park extends. This is a wilderness of 



272 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

beautiful tropical growths that holds the center 
of Tampa's attraction for the visitor. 

The Tampa Bay Hotel — a beautiful structure 
— was built by Henry B. Plant. It has been 
purchased by the city and is opened for visitors 
under municipal management. Its fagades, both 
to the east and west, are impressive. The style 
of construction is Moorish, the minarets and tow- 
ers flashing in the sunlight, graceful in shape, 
veritable jewels of architecture in their tropic 
setting. The building is over 500 feet long, and 
has as many rooms. It holds a theater, a swim- 
ming pool, music and reception rooms. There 
was beautiful furniture there when it was 
first constructed, but much has been removed. 
That it should be well conducted is necessary for 
its success as a point of interest for tourists. 

In the park are some magnificent old trees, 
giant palmettoes with enormous leaves gracefully 
bending and meeting overhead, forming an arched 
walk. An old oak, moss-grown and gnarled — 
a veritable father of the forest — is at the north- 
east end of the park. 

A drive through the residence section is very 
interesting, and a visit to the wharves and a large 
tobacco factory is worth making. There the 
Oriental color is seen, in the presence of the 
reader to whom the workmen listen as the cigars 
grow into shape in their busy fingers. 

Excursions may be made to the fortifications, 
Fort Dade and Fort De Soto, to St. Petersburg 
and Pas a Grille, out into the Gulf of Mexico, to 
the south through the Keys, to Sarasota and up 
the Manatee to Braderrl53l^, and on through its 
fairylike reaches into the back country, where 



L 



CaTU 



JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 273 

shooting and fishing both abound. Up the Hills- 
boro is Sulphur Springs, with its beautiful pool 
flowing 50,000 gallons a minute. Palma Cua 
Park, Ballast Point, Frazier's Beach and Indian 
Rock all are attractive points. 

The daily newspapers will have information as 
to railroads, local steamboat lines, excursions, 
amusements, etc. (Hotels, see list.) 

The Tampa Northern Railroad runs from 
Tampa to Brookville, 50 m. The stations are: 
Ybor City (i m.) ; A. C. L. Crossing, (2 m.) ; 
Garytown (2 J m.) ; Hardee (5m.); Flora (8 m.) ; 
Nowatney (10 m.) ; Stamper (15 m.) ; Lake 
Stemper to the right; Denham (19 m.) ; A. C. L. 
Crossing (22 m.) to Tarpon Springs; Fivay Junc- 
tion or Tucker P. O. (29 m.), where connection 
can be made for Fivay on Bear Creek, and Hud- 
son on the Gulf; Loyce (33 m.) ; Enville Junc- 
tion (39 m.) ; Enville to the left; Rural (44 m.) ; 
Wiscon Junction (47 m.), and Brookville (50 
m.). 

Tampa is also the terminus of the S. A. L. R. R. 
(See p. 283.) 

From Tampa the railroad crosses the peninsula 
between the two bays to the southwest and 
reaches Port Tampa City (248 m.), and Port 
Tampa (250 m.). This little city is situated on 
Old Tampa Bay, on the southwest side of the 
peninsula. The wharf which marks the terminus 
of the railroad and from which the various steam- 
boat lines sail was built in 1889, and is 4,400 feet 
long. During the Spanish war 27 steamships 
were berthed there at one time. It runs far out 



274 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

into the bay to reach the deep water. On the pier 
is built " The Inn," a unique hostelry at sea, 
where one may fish from the verandas and at 
night fancy himself on shipboard; but with the 
growth of shipping The Inn as a sportsman's 
center has made way for commerce. The bay, 
however, does teem with fish, and days of fine 
sport are to be had. The beach of the peninsula 
is of soft and shining sand and shell-strewn, as 
are all Florida beaches. The sea wrack comes 
from even across the Gulf, and beachcombing is 
always interesting. Long-legged wild fowl stand 
sentinel-like in the shoal water, and busy sand- 
pipers scurry along after the poor little crusta- 
ceans whose favorite state of the tide tempted 
them out. 

Local information as to the steamship lines 
starting from here should be obtained. 



Jacksonville to Tampa 
(Via Seaboard Air Line — 212 m., 15 hrs.) 

Jacksonville to Cedar Keys, via Waldo, 127 m., 8 hrs.; 
Archer to Dunellon, 35 m., 14 hrs.; Starke to Wan- 
nee, 60 m.; Wildwood to Lake Charm, 70 m., 4 
hrs.; Plant City to Placida and Charlotte Harbor, 
84 m.; Turkey Creek to Sarasota, 60 m., 3^ hrs. 

Leaving Jacksonville, the country traversed is 
of no special interest, being a farming section. 
Marietta ( m.), White House (11 m.), and Miller- 
ton (14 m.) are small stations. At Baldwin (19 
fn.) is a junction with the A. C. L., and the S. A. 
L. to Tallahassee diverges here. The way turns 




ampa Bay Hotel 













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JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 275 

to the south and passes Fiftone (22 m.), Maxville 
(28 m.), Highland (30 m.) and Lawtey (38 m.) 
(Hotels, see list.) Farming country with or- 
chards of deciduous fruits. The small " pinto " 
peaches ripen by early June. Pecan trees do 
well, and Scuppernong grapes. Strawberries are 
an abundant crop also. 

Starke (45 m.) is in a very prosperous country. 
(Hotels, see list.) 

From Starke a branch line of the S. A. L. runs 
southwest to Wannee, on the Suwanee river (60 
m., 4| hrs.). At Sampson Junction (7 m.) the 
Ga. Southern & Fla. R. R. is crossed. Clayno 
(10 m.), Brooker (15 m.), LaCrosse (20 m.), 
Hainesworth (23 m.). At Burnett Lake (25 m.) 
is a junction with the A. C. L. Alachua (27 m.), 
Arno (32 m.), Buda (35 m.), Central Junction 
(37 m.), (Clark a junction of the A. C. L.), Neals 
(40 m.), Williford (50 m.). Bell (55 m.) and Wan- 
nee (60 m.). Wannee is one of the numerous 
health resorts of the State, well-known locally 
and having attractive environment. 

Thurston (48 m.) is the next station, and at 
Hampton (51 m.) the Ga. Southern & Fla. R. R. 
to Palatka from northwest Florida crosses. 

Waldo (56 m.) is an old settlement and a thriv- 
ing town, situated in Alachua county, whose rich 
soil has made the success of its farmers assured. 
It is here that the interesting sink country be- 
gins. The underlying limestone seems honey- 
combed and there is a succession of these depres- 
sions, most of which are filled with deep water. 
Some, however, are shallow caves and are inter- 



2-^6 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

esting to explore. In Alachua county are found 
extensive deposits of phosphates, rich in phos- 
phoric acid, and mills for preparing this for the 
market have been established at many points. 
There are citrus groves of good quality in the 
neighborhood, and the lakes near by are very at- 
tractive. 



Waldo to Cedar Keys 

A branch of the S. A. L. R. R. diverges at 
Waldo to Gainesville, Archer and Cedar Keys 
(71 m.), with through trains from Jacksonville 
(127 m., 8 hrs.) This line runs southwest to 
Fairbanks (63 m.), and Gainesville (70 m.) 
a station on the A. C. L.,' also on the Ga. 
Southern & Fla. It continues through Alachua 
county, a prosperous agricultural belt, the under- 
lying phosphate contributing to its fertility. Ar- 
redondo (76 m.), Kanapaha (yy m.) and Palmer 
(79 m.) are all stations for the convenience of 
farmers. 

From Archer (84 m., hotels, see list) a branch 
of the S. A. L. runs through Williston (11 m., 
hotels, see list), Montbrook (16 m., hotels, see 
list) and Morriston (20 m., hotels, see list) to the 
Eagle phosphate mines and Dunnellon (35 m., ij 
hrs.) and the A. C. L. West Coast route is 
crossed. 

Levy county is entered. Long stretches of 
pine woods, the trees of great size and vigor, are 
seen. Some lakes and prairies and much of the 
curious sink formation are passed. There are 
traces of old plantations. In the fields the still 



WALDO TO CEDAR KEYS 277 

existing ridges where the cane and sweet potatoes 
grew are covered with new forestation, some of 
the trees of thirty years' growth. There are many 
turpentine farms, distinguished by the prism-like 
long gashes, with attached cups, on the trunks of 
the pine trees. Cattle are still raised. In the old 
days the herds were rounded up with little regard 
to age or fitness, and sent to the coast to be 
shipped to the Cuban market. The vandal cow- 
men here, as in other grazing sections in Florida, 
set fire to the old and dry undergrowth in the 
winter for the sake of the tender new grass 
which springs up afterwards. These fires are 
very destructive to the standing timber, and in 
some instances to the houses of the settlers. 

Merediths (91 m.) is the next station after 
Archer. Bronson (94 m.) is an old settlement, 
but being ofif the line of general travel has made 
little growth. To the south is Johnson's Pond, 
where duck shooting is excellent. A little be- 
yond Lennon (99 m.) the Wacasassa is crossed. 
There are two branches, both with extensive 
cypress hammocks, extending through the adja- 
cent swamps to the pine woods. The cypress 
here attains great size, some of the knees being 
five feet above the water. The view in these 
river swamps is particularly weird and dismal. 

Otter Creek (106 m.) is in the midst of a 
country filled with quail, ducks and deer. The 
otters of other days are now only occasionally 
found. There are no public accommodations for 
visitors, but many sportsmen leave the train here 
for shooting in the Gulf hammocks to the south- 
east. Elizey (107 m.), Wylie (no m.), Rose- 
wood (117 m.), Sumner (120 m.) and Lukens 



278 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

(124 m.) are in a country well wooded and with 
many ponds. 

Cedar Keys (127 m., pop. 864) is situated on 
an island, and is an old town with a good harbor 
for vessels of light draft. Its chief industry is 
the mills for red cedar operated by the lead pencil 
companies, the hammocks along the adjacent 
coast furnishing the lumber which is here milled 
to the finished product. Local industries are fish- 
ing, sponging and turtling. The two former have 
been followed for many years in the same man- 
ner. The sponge beds here furnish growths of 
superior quality and the old sponging fleet has 
been supplemented by the more modern one 
of the Greeks, who by their lawless and de- 
structive methods have done much to in- 
jure the beds and impair the industry (see 
p. 205). The town is not specially attrac- 
tive. It has a lighthouse, and is a port-of- 
call for vessels of light draft, passing freight 
boats and yachts. There was formerly a line of 
steamers running to and up the Suwanee river. 
According to some authorities Suwanee is a cor- 
ruption of the Spanish San Juan. It is a stream 
of rare beauty, and is navigable for many miles. 
It is fed by numerous beautiful springs, and the 
semi-tropical hammocks along its banks fulfill 
all the promise of description and anticipation. 
Small boats can be hired a,t Cedar Keys to make 
the trip to the river. Near Cedar Keys are some 
interesting prehistoric mounds. (Hotels, see 
list.) 

Leaving Waldo Orange Heights (61 m.) and 
Campville (65 m.) are passed. Hawthorne (71 



JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 279 

m,) is a junction with tlie A. C. L. from Palatka 
to Gainesville and northwestern Florida. Little 
Orange Lake lies to the east, and the last of a 
chain of lakes from this to Lake Lochloosa is 
crossed just before reaching Lochloosa (79 m.). 

At Island Grove (82 m., hotels, see list) Orange 
Lake is reached and Orange Creek is crossed at 
its exit from the lake. Before the freeze in 1895 
the orange groves in this vicinity were very ex- 
tensive, thoroughly cultivated and were most 
profitable investments. They are now beginning 
to thrive again. On leaving the lake, Citra (85 
m.) is reached. Sparr (91 m.), Anthony (95 m.) 
and Silver Springs Junction (98 m.). From this 
junction a branch line runs to Silver Springs (2 
m.) the terminus of the Ocklawaha trip. (See 
P- 235.) 

Ocala (124 m., pop. 4,370) is an A. C. L. junc- 
tion and an important town with much to interest 
the tourist. Santos (no m.) and Belleview (114 
m., hotels, see list) are passed and at Summerfield 
(118 m.) is a branch line to Weirsdale (126 m.), 
one of the most attractive of the lake country re- 
sorts. The elevation at the hotel is 90 feet, and 
a bluff thirty feet high marks the shore line of 
the lake. The fishing and duck shooting is par- 
ticularly fine; quail and rabbits abound in the 
neighborhood, and the charges for guides are 
very reasonable. Weirsdale has a Boat Club. 
Excursions to the Ocklawaha upper waters, only 
six miles away, are made from here. There are 
trails through the pine woods, carpeted with 
needles that give out resinous and refreshing 
odors to the passerby. The climate is particu- 
larly dry and invigorating. (Hotels, see list.) 



28o A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

From Dallas (121 m.) and Oxford (124 m.) the 
railroad runs to Wildwood (127 m., hotels, see 
list). 

From Wildwood a S. A. L. branch line runs 
through Orlando to Lake Charm — 70 m., 4J hrs. 
This section of the country is one of great beauty. 
The climate is perfect for out-of-door life, and 
the succession of lake and forest, stream and 
cultivated groves, make vistas of fairly-like at- 
traction. At Leesburg (11 m., pop. 991), an A. 
C. L. junction and an interesting town, the ham- 
mock groves are of special beauty. Giant pal- 
mettoes luxuriate there. The water scenes are a 
succession of pictures. The lake is bordered by 
forests and orange groves, beautifully cared for, 
that grow down to the edge of the water. The 
town is situated between Lakes Harris and Grif- 
fin, in the midst of orange groves and gardens. 
In these lakes, which are the head-waters of the 
Ocklawaha, there are still to be found large al- 
ligators, and the sport of hunting these reptiles 
is a novel one. Blackbill, broadbill, wood-duck 
and mallard abound in the early winter, while on 
their way South. The great pine woods are the 
home of flocks of wild turkeys, quail and doves. 
In the lake the bass grow large, and there are 
many other fish of the usual kind. 

Tavares (21 m.), an A. C. L. junction, is beau- 
tifully located and has many of the charms of 
Leesburg. It is in a well-settled country, and 
about it are many resorts where the climate, good 
water, schools and comfortable hotels bring a 
population of winter residents year after year. 
(Hotels, see list.) 



JACKSONVILLE TO TAMPA 281 

Zellwood (33 m.) is particularly attractive 
in its environment and its winter homes. 
Apopka (40 m.) is to the east of the great lake 
of the same name. There is a low range of ele- 
vated country extending north and south here, 
where the climatic conditions seem to be particu- 
larly good. It has been known as a health resort 
from the time when the Seminoles camped on its 
shores through the days when the native Florida 
" crackers " were the sole inhabitants of the place, 
to the present time, when the whole section is 
filled with the homes of those in search of health 
or pleasure. The great extent of the lake makes 
it seem almost like a sea. The breezes of the 
pine lands are life-giving and inspiring. (Ho- 
tels, see list.) 

From here to Orlando (53 m. — an A. C. L. 
junction and interesting point, see p. 261) the 
way is through similar country. Then it passes 
through Winter Park (59 m. — an A. C. L. station, 
see p. 260) and Oviedo (69 m.) to Lake Charm 
(70 m.) which is in the country closely tributary 
to the St. John's river, and the beautiful semi- 
tropical scenery of the waterways there abounds. 
(Hotels, see list.) 

Coleman (130 m.) is the next station after 
Wildwood on the main line. Then follow War- 
nell (132 m.) and Panasoffkee (135 m.) at the 
southern extremity of the lake of the same name. 
(A. S. A. L. branch runs eastward from here to 
Sumterville, five miles.) 

A branch of the Withlacoochee river is next 
passed, then comes Bushnell (142 m.) and St. 
Catherines (146 m.), the station for Massacre P. 



282 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

O. This name is in memory of the fall here of 
Major Dade and over one hundred men, who 
were surprised by the Seminoles and slain on 
Dec. 28, 1835. Only three of the force escaped 
alive. The spot where the massacre occurred is 
about four miles to the north. A monument in 
the form of a pyramid has been erected in mem- 
ory of these soldiers at St. Augustine (see p. 
121). (An A. C. L. branch crosses here from 
Leesburg to Croom and Brookville.) 

At Terrell (150 m.) another branch of the 
Withlacoochee is crossed, then Withlacoochee 
(153 m.), and Lacoochee (156 m.), on the main 
river, a crossing of the A. C. L. from Sanford to 
St. Petersburg. Owensboro (155 m.) is also a 
station on the A. C. L. Da4e City (164 m.) is 
also a station on the A. C. L., and is situated at 
the lower end of Lake Pasadena, an attractive 
though small lake. Grier (172 m.), Abbotts 
(174 m.) and Knights (185 m.) are all small sta- 
tions. Plant City (189 m.) is a thriving town 
and a station on the A. C. L. main line to Tampa. 

From Plant City a S. A. L. branch runs south 
through Trapwell (4 m.), Hopewell (6 m.), Alafia 
(8 m.), Keysville (10 m.), Welcome (13 m.) to 
Bradley Junction (15 m.), where connection is 
made for Pierce (3 m. north) ; thence by the Char- 
lotte Harbor & Northern R. R., a local line paral- 
leling the A. C. L. most of the way from Bartow 
to Arcadia. The stations are: Fort Green (15 
m.), Ona (23 m.), Bridges {^y m.), Kinsey (32 
m.), Bunker (39 m.) to Arcadia (42 m.) which is 
also a station on the A. C. L. The next stations 
are Nocatee (47 m.) and Hull (52 m.), where the 



TAMPA TO SARASOTA 283 

road crosses the Peace river at the mouth of the 
Chiloccohatchee, passes through Charlotte (68 
m.) and crosses the wide Myaka river and enters 
the peninsula between Charlotte Harbor and 
the Gulf of Mexico, reaching Placida (84 m.), op- 
posite Gasparilla Pass and the open Gulf. Here 
connection can be made for Bocagrande (2 m.) 
and South Bocagrande (4 m.), on Gasparilla 
Island, and all points south. There are no 
through trains by this route. 

After leaving Plant City, the next station is 
Turkey Creek (194 m.) and the railroad continues 
through Sidney (199 m.), Brandon (204 m.), 
Limona (206 m.), Yoeman's (209 m.) and Ybor 
City (211 m.) to Tampa (212 m.). 

Trains are run from Tampa via Turkey Creek 
(17 m.) to Sarasota and Fruitville on a branch 
line of the S. A. L., 83 m., 4J hrs. Leaving Tur- 
key Creek the way at first is through Hillsboro 
county, passing Durant (5 m.) and Boyette (11 
m.). The Alafia river is crossed at Marvina (13 
m.), then come Balm (16 m.), and Willow (25 
m.) on the Manatee river. Manatee county is 
entered, a county below the present frost line. 
In 1895, when all of northern and central Florida 
was devastated, the citrus groves here were un- 
touched. More than three-fifths of the 50,000 
boxes of oranges gathered that year were from 
Manatee county. It has a climate tempered at 
all seasons of the year by its water protection. 
Its lands have been developed, and as all of the 
four predominating Floridian soils — pine, ham- 
mock, muck and humus, and prairie — are found 



284 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

here, the agricultural rank is very high. As in 
other parts of Florida, where there are no killing 
frosts, many exotic palms have been introduced, 
with other tropical trees and vines. 

This county was settled in very early days, and 
the remains of several old plantations are still 
to be found. The orange groves have trees at I 
least fifty or sixty years old. In the midst of 
groves of this age can be found the cane rows 
from plantings before the tree growth began. 
The county has been a paradise for sportsmen, 
both on water and land, and there are still many 
regions within easy reach where game is abun- 
dant, and guides and equipment can be obtained 
at reasonable prices in all the towns. The fin- 
ished roads are first-class, and they are being 
rapidly extended so that it will soon be possible 
comfortably to reach all the larger towns by 
motor. 

In the eastern part of the county are tracts 
of magnificent pine trees and immense cypress, 
and along the water courses is a most beautiful 
forestation of both evergreen and deciduous trees. 
The whole shore-line of the county is protected 
by a row of keys, except for a few miles at Ven- 
ice and south of there. The inland waterways 
communicate with the Gulf by little passes, so 
both open and sheltered cruising are to be found. 

The first town on the border of Manatee county 
is Parrish (32 m.), named for the original settler 
there. It is very charmingly situated at the south 
end of a chain of lakes which the railroad skirts 
before reaching the station. Erie (35 m.) is to 
the south of the railroad on the Manatee river. 

Terra Ceia Junction (39 m.) is next reached. 



TAMPA TO SARASOTA 285 

From here a short branch (2 m.) runs to Palm 
View, and the island of Terra Ceia (Heavenly 
Land) (5 m.) is reached from there. This 
island is absolutely frost-proof and is divided into 
a number of small holdings. Intensive farming 
is being done here under most favorable condi- 
tions. 

Ellentown (42 m.), on the north bank of the 
Manatee, is surrounded by cultivated lands. Near 
here was the Gamble sugar plantation, one of the 
largest of the early times. Large exports of 
Fuller's-earth are made from here. Palmetto 
(43 m.) is to the west of the railroad, just where 
it crosses the Manatee river, and is in the midst 
of beautiful hammock growths. It is a shipping 
point for early vegetables and fruits, and has all 
the conveniences of a city — good lights, water, 
schools and churches. (Hotels, see list.) 

Manatee (44 m., pop., 988) is beautifully sit- 
uated at the junction of two forks of the Manatee 
river. It is the oldest town in the county, its 
records extending back to 1841. It is a most 
thriving place, with the conveniences of a modern 
city. In the town is a large mineral spring 
whose waters are much valued by invalids. The 
surrounding country is full of beautiful homes 
and is of historic interest. (Hotels, see list.) 

Bradentown (45 m., pop. 2,000) was named 
from the Braden family of planters, and is an 
interesting little city, situated on the south side 
of the Manatee, on a high bluff overlooking the 
river. Unbroken pine forests stretch away to 
the east, and to the west are the waters of the 
Gulf. The water-front is very attractive, with 
gardens reaching to the edge, and little piers and 



286 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

boat-houses for the use of pleasure craft being 
built out into the river. It is the county seat, 
has electric lights, a good water system, paved 
and well-shaded streets, and good roads extend- 
ing into the country. The farmer, as a rule, does 
not live upon his country place, but rather in 
town, going to and fro as necessity demands. 
The residences are well-built, and the town is one 
that invites the tourist to stay. There are the 
usual out-of-door amusements, to which must be 
added the boating on the Manatee river. 

It was near Bradentown, at the Davis planta- 
tion, in 1865, that Judah P. Benjamin, the Confed- 
erate Secretary of State, lay for two months, 
hidden by Capt. Archibald McNeill. Jefferson 
Davis and his Cabinet had fled from Richmond. 
Benjamin called himself Charles Howard, and 
came as far as Gainesville, Fla., in company with 
Breckenridge, the Secretary of War. Brecken- 
ridge then went towards the Atlantic coast, and 
Benjamin towards the Gulf. After two months 
at Bradentown, the latter was taken by boat to 
Manatee. From Manatee to Sarasota Bay he 
was taken in a horse cart by the Rev. E. Glazier. 
From there to Cape Florida he was carried in a 
small sailing boat by Captain Fred Tresca of 
Manatee. At Cape Florida a larger boat was 
found, and after hairbreadth escapes from Federal 
gunboats he finally found safety in the Bahamas. 
Tresca received $1,500, arid was contented with 
it, although the United States had offered a re- 
ward of $25,000 for Benjamin. 

A line of steamers runs from Manatee and 
Bradentown to Tampa. On the river are seen 
many motor launches during the season, and 



TAMPA TO SARASOTA 287 

these as well as camp equipment, etc., can be 
hired b}^ the visitor. The way to the Gulf is 
sheltered and around behind the keys to Sarasota 
Bay, all kinds of game fish abound. This is par- 
ticularly a haunt of the tarpon, while manatee 
still frequent the river. (Hotels, see list.) 

Leaving Bradentown we come to Shell Beach 
(47 m.), followed by Onoco (48 m.). Here are 
large nurseries for all kinds of tropical and sub- 
tropical flora, very interesting to the northerr 
visitor. The railroad skirts a lake before reach 
ing Medina (54 m.). 

Sarasota (56 m., pop., 840), is a well-known 
town, situated on Sarasota Bay. For many years 
it has been a resort for sportsmen, and its legends 
of the catches and bags of early days are almost 
incredible. It has advanced with the rest of 
Florida, and is now a thriving little city. Its 
streets are paved, and electric lights, good water, 
and schools make it desirable. There is a golf 
course, and this, with other out-of-door games, is 
very popular. The shooting in the country to the 
east still draws the sportsman. There are long 
stretches of flat woods and palmetto shrub, where 
bear, deer, quail, rabbits and doves are found. 
There are alligators in the streams and wild-cats 
in the hammocks. There is no section of the 
country more ideal for camping. 

But it is the Bay that is the greatest attraction 
at Sarasota. It is twelve miles long by three 
miles wide, and extends south behind a chain of 
sheltering keys which almost lock it. The keys 
are crescent-shaped, have hard, white, sand 
beaches, and are covered with a growth of palms, 
palmettoes and exogenous trees. The mainland 



288 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

shore line is high, and towards the south end, 
where the town is located, there are residences 
extending in both directions. The town lies op- 
posite Big Sarasota Pass and New Pass, and the 
seaward view is very fine, especially at sunset. 
The waters abound with fish of every sort, from 
the minnow to the tarpon. The tarpon fishing 
here is very interesting in the spring, and the 
delicious stone-crab, clams and oysters are found 
in abundance. There is an inland way to Tampa 
Bay, and during the season the waters are filled 
with pleasure craft of every kind and size. (Ho- 
tels, see list.) 

Fruitville (60 m.) is directly east of Sarasota. 
Here the road terminates. 

At Osprey, on the Bay twelve miles below 
Sarasota, is the Webb estate, 'located on a neck 
of land with much virgin forest growth. Mrs. 
Potter Palmer has purchased 70,000 acres of land 
in Hillsboro and Manatee counties, including the 
Webb estate, which latter will be used for a 
winter home. 

Venice is eighteen miles below Fruitville, sit- 
uated at the inner end of a little bay, has no keys 
between it and the open Gulf. The S. A. L. is 
building an extension to Venice, which is com- 
pleted as far as Palmer, four miles beyond Fruit- 
ville. 

Englewood is eleven miles below Fruitville on 
Lemon Bay, situated on the ridge of the coast, 
while back of it is a region of muck and saw- 
grass lands. The communication from Sarasota 
south towards Hayden and Venice is all by water 
at present, but an extension of the railroad is 
planned that will reach this country and open it 
for settlers. 



JACKSONVILLE TO FORT MYERS 
(Via A. C. L. — 323 m., 12I hrs.) 

Leaving Jacksonville, the route follows the 
main line of the A. C. L. Co., by way of Palatka 
and Ocala to Lakeland (209 m., pop. 3,719). 
There the road turns to the southeast and con- 
nects with the A. C. L's. road from Savannah, via 
Waycross, Live Oak and Dunnellon. The re- 
gion is high pine uplands, with many lakes, and 
is thickly settled, many winter visitors having 
homes there. 

Leaving Lakeland, the first station is Pauway 
(213 m.), then Haskell (217 m.) with Lake Han- 
cock to the right. 

Bartow (222 m., pop. 2f£2) is one of the older 
towns in the State. Its location is attractive. 
Life there is conservative and comfortable, and 
it has much of the charm of a small Northern 
town, with the added semi-tropical environment 
and climate. The South Florida Military Edu- 
cational Institute is located here. There are 
many pleasant excursions in the neighborhood 
and the roads are good in the vicinity. Just to 
the east is Peace river, rising in Lake Hancock 
and Lake Garfield, and flowing southward to 
Charlotte Harbor. (Hotels, see list.) 

The railroad follows the course of the river 
along the west side to Homeland (228 m.), and 
Fort Meade (233 m.), whose name revives mem- 
ories of Seminole days. This region was a fron- 
tier camping ground. (Hotels, see list.) 

Connection is made at Fort Meade by a short 
289 



290 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

line west to Tiger Bay, with the branch line from 
Winston (p. 268). 

Just beyond Fort Meade, Bowlegs Creek, 
named for the old Seminole chief, flows into the 
river. Jane Jay (237 m.), Bowling Green (241 
m.), near which was old Fort Choconieta at the 
mouth of a tributary stream. This is crossed at 
Torrey (243 m.), Wauchula (247 m. Hotels, 
see list.) 

At Zolfo (251 m.) the railroad crosses and 
leaves the river, to Moffat (257 m.), and Bu- 
chanan (258 m.) Charlie Oak Creek is crossed. 
Calvinia (260 m.), Gardner (262 m.), Brownville 
(266 m.). 

Arcadia (271 m.) is a small town, but one much 
favored by tourists. The sportsman, the pleas- 
ure seeker, the invalid and even the settler all 
come to the Peace river country. The phos- 
phates from the Peace river section are shipped 
from here; pebble phosphate is especially rich in 
vegetable nutrition. A tram line is being built 
from Arcadia to Fort Thompson on the Caloosa- 
hatchie, which will open the rich country lying 
between — the Seminoles' hunting grounds — to 
the traveler. The tropic growth is luxuriant in 
the neighborhood, and exploration is interesting 
with no more deadly weapons than the camera, 
the net and the chloroform bottle. [Arcadia is 
also a station on the Charlotte Harbor and North- 
ern R. R.] 

Leaving Arcadia, Joshua Creek is crossed, 
Nocatee (275 m.), Fort Ogden (282 m.) which has 
been a settlement since Seminole times, then 
Shell Creek (288 m.) at the mouth of Shell Creek, 
and Cleveland (291 m.). The railroad now fol- 



JACKSONVILLE TO FORT MYERS 291 

lows the line of the wide river along its southeast 
shore, which flows into the bay at Punta Gorda 
(295 m., pop. 1,012), situated at the mouth of the 
Peace river on its southeast bank, and command- 
ing a view of Charlotte Harbor from its wharf. 
Along the water front there is a long street full 
of interesting life. Watercraft of all sorts find 
anchorage here, and the river and bay are filled 
with pleasure and freight boats. The town has 
been headquarters for sportsmen for a long time, 
and for many years was the only place conven- 
iently reached as a point of departure for expe- 
ditions to the hunting grounds south and east, 
and then the waters west and south. Its shops 
for outfitting and for repairs to sporting equip- 
ment are good. The climate is ideal during the 
winter months. There is no fashionable life here, 
but many visitors find the charm of the place and 
its environs so attracting that they come regu- 
larly each winter. No sportsman will be disap- 
pointed who makes his headquarters here. 
Guides, boats, and guns and tackle to be had 
here. (Hotels, see list.) 

Across Peace river, Harbor View, Hickory 
Bluff and Charlotte Harbor can be reached .by 
boat. 

The Gasparilla Passes, Useppa, and Pine 
Island and many points in the line of keys to the 
west are of easy access by the waters of Charlotte 
Harbor. There is also water communication to 
Fort Myers. 

Acline (295 m.) is the next station, Gilchrist 
(308 m.), Samville (315 m.), where Lee County 
is entered, and Tice (318 m.) are then passed. 
The Caloosahatchie river is crossed. 



292 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Fort Myers (323 m., pop. 2,463). This is the 
county seat and real gateway to Lee County, 
which is a veritable paradise for sportsmen, and 
since the building of a commodious hotel, The 
Royal Palm, at Fort Myers, it has also become 
one of the fashionable resorts of Florida. 

Lee County is the largest in Florida, 4,000 sq. 
m., pop. 10,000. The winter climate is as near 
perfection for out-of-door life, at all times, as 
can be conceived. Being so near the tropics, at 
every season there is luxuriant growth in ham- 
mock, by streams' borders, in woodland, on 
prairies and in swamps, but a tender spring green 
begins to appear in December, and during the 
four following months, the flora is at its best. 

The attractions of the country are so varied 
it is impossible to describe' them. From the 
mimosas, the pitcher plants and kindred carniy- 
orous plants, to the viviparous mangroves on 
the keys with the parasitic neighbors, the oysters, 
clinging to their roots ; from the lone vines and 
" wait-awhiles " to the lianas that embrace and 
kill forest kings ; from the " bonnets " afloat on 
the waters to the blue hyacinths that carpet the 
rivers, and from cacti through glorious glossy 
leaved magnolias and citrus trees in the gardens 
to stately date palms, there is a succession of 
growing things to delight the eye and interest 
the mind of the visitor. Cattle raising has been 
a leading industry in the County from the time of 
its first settlement. The sea coast is one of 
many indentations, and the line of keys guarding 
its edge adds many miles of water border. 
Beautiful shells are found in abundance, and 
most interesting sea flora. 



JACKSONVILLE TO FORT MYERS 293 

The historical interest centers in the forts in 
the county, which were the seat of military opera- 
tions during the Seminole War. It was at Fort 
Myers that the brave chief Billy Bowlegs made 
his submission, and ended hostilities with the 
Seminoles. It was during the Second Seminole 
War that General Winfield Scott Hancock was 
stationed as Quartermaster at Fort Myers. He 
planted the date palm, one of the largest in 
America, near the house in which he lived, and 
which is still standing. 

Fort Myers is situated on the south bank of 
the Caloosahatchie river, here ij miles wide — 18 
miles from the Gulf — and is a most picturesque 
and attractive town. A well-built sea-wall makes 
the water front very " sightly." The prosperous 
marine ways and boatyards tell of the extent of 
both business and pleasure water life. The 
streets are well paved and there are cement 
walks in every direction. The trees that shade the 
streets and grow in the gardens of the homes of 
winter residents are splendid specimens. Poin- 
cianas, tamarinds, avocadoes, mangoes, sapadil- 
loes and citrus trees, guavas and dates, camphor 
and gum trees, oak and magnolias, palms of all 
kinds, are a few of the many found here. 

There was a settlement of wealthy cattlemen 
here before the coming of the tourist, and their 
homes, even in those early days, were comfort- 
able and even luxurious. The most distinguished 
winter resident is Thomas A. Edison, and Fort 
Myers is claimed as the birthplace of the phono- 
graph. 

The town has good water and drainage, electric 
lightSj facilities for driving and motoring, but 



294 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

the roads for the latter are very few. There are 
good schools, and the markets are good. There 
is much to interest the tourist, and the whole 
county is tributary to Fort Myers in furnishing 
amusements for visitors. Excursions can be 
made to all the keys and to the rivers that are 
tributary to the bay. 

The fishing and shooting to be had from this 
point are the best in all Florida. The tarpon fish- 
ing in and about Charlotte Harbor and its Passes 
is worthy of its high repute (p. 8i). The Hotel 
Royal Palm has been built, like its larger com- 
peers on the East Coast, to give every comfort 
to its guests. Fishermen and sportsmen in 
search of game on land come from all parts of 
the world, men and women, for the tarpon fish- 
ing, and for the bear, pumas, deer, duck and quail 
of the near-by fastnesses. (For other hotels, see 
list.) 

Excursions 

The Yacht and Country Club, with a member- 
ship of three hundred, is up the river from Fort 
Myers on the shell boulevard, past Orange river 
to Fort Thompson. There are grounds of forty 
acres, a wharf 500 feet long, golf links, tennis, 
croquet, basket- and baseball grounds, and gun 
traps and ranges. The grounds are well planned, 
and planted to well-selected flora. On going down 
the Caloosahatchie river there are many oyster 
reefs, and through the wide stretches of shoal 
water the channel is narrow, but well staked. 
Vast pine forests stretch away on each side, and 
the view, though extensive, is monotonous. 

Punta Rassa, " Flat Point," a little town situ- 



JACKSONVILLE TO FORT MYERS 295 

ated on a point of land just south of the river's 
mouth, was originally called Fort Dulany after 
an officer in the First Seminole War. This has 
always been a shipping point for cattle, and this 
industry still continues. Large herds in charge 
of cow men roam on the mainland, descendants 
of the small, oldtime cattle but little improved 
by introduced strains. The submarine cable to 
Cuba starts from here. Sportsmen find it a good 
point from which to make excursions. The in- 
trusion of a fashionable element sends some of 
the old visitors to places less conventional in 
environment, but Punta Rassa is still holding the 
charm of a frontier town. 

San Carlos Bay. The boat leaves the river and . 
crosses to Sanibel Island, 14 m. long, 3 m. wide, 
lying east and west. At the eastern end is the 
lighthouse. It is a flat island, with a sparse 
growth of palms. On the bay side are mangrove 
and white sand stretches; on the gulf a firm 
hard sand beach without undertow. The shells 
to be found are very beautiful and many of them 
rare. There are several hotels on the island. Its 
winter visitors are fishermen, and tourists at- 
tracted by its climate and the facilities for out- 
of-door life — bathing, shooting, fishing,^ and sail- 
ing. There is a pleasant drive of five miles down 
and across the island. The hotels are on both 
the bay and gulf sides of the island. 

The boat then goes northward, leaving Pine 
Island to the east. It extends from San Carlos 
Bay on the south to Charlotte Harbor on the 
north. There are several settlements on this is- 
land, and fishermen visit it because of the good 
sport to be found near its shores, especially on 



296 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

windy days. There was a curious aboriginal bur- 
ial ground on a sand spit here, where were found 
many skeletons, celts of iron probably meteoric, 
arrowheads of chalcedony, and a silver pendant. 

To the left as the boat passes Pine Island, sep- 
arated from Sanibel Island by Boca Ciega Pass is 
Captiva Island. There is a post office and hotel 
here (hotels, see list), and many sportsmen come 
for the fishing in the adjacent waters. Captiva 
Pass, with its view of the Gulf, separates Captiva 
Island from La Costa, where there is a ranch of 
market fishermen. On the right are Bird Island 
and Useppa Island. 

Useppa Island contains about lOO acres and is 
very picturesque. It is higher than the seaward 
islands here and has more forestation. Its ac- 
cessibility, climate, and unique location attract 
many visitors, and on the northern extremity a 
hotel has been built, which is frequented by many 
enthusiastic fishermen from all over the world. 
It is conceded that the tarpon grounds about 
Bocagrande, north of La Costa Key, are the best 
to be found anywhere. A launch is run daily 
from the hotel to these grounds. Useppa can 
be reached from Arcadia to Placida by rail, then 
to Bocagrande by boat, or from Fort Myers by 
boat all the way. 

North of Bocagrande Pass is Big Gasparilla Is- 
land. On this is the town of Bocagrande, which 
lies nearest to the most famed spot for tarpon 
taking of all the towns about. There is a com- 
fortable hotel, and here gather the fisher clan 
daily during the season. The waters of the 
whole harbor swarm with other fishes that are 



JACKSONVILLE TO FORT MYERS 297 

not unworthy quarry. The beaches are strewn 
with beautiful shells and other sea wrack, and 
the sea flora is particularly vivid in coloring here. 
Oysters, crabs and clams abound, and are added 
to the menu. At the northern end of Gasparilla 
Island is the pass of the same name, then comes 
Little Gasparilla Island with mud flats surround- 
ing it, swarming with pelicans, gannets and gulls, 
and overhead in the cobalt sky men-of-war hawks 
are sailing, pirates of the air and sea both. An 
Indian mound was explored on this key. The 
way is open from here along the coast toward 
Sarasota. 

The boats of the Kinsie Bros. Line make a 
round trip from Fort Myers by way of the points 
and ke3^s mentioned to Pineland on Pine Island 
in one day, and it is an excursion recommended 
to the tourist. To the south, 30 miles away, is 
Naples on the Gulf, a settlement of Kentuckians. 
Hon, Henry Watterson for many years has made 
this his winter home. His partner, Mr. Halde- 
man, spent half a million of dollars in improving 
the locality, a handsome hunting lodge was built, 
cottages, a wharf, and various improvements 
made. For many years life there was of the sort 
lived on Jekyl Island, Ga. After the death of 
Mr. Haldeman the place was opened to the public 
as a hotel, and there were many sportsmen and 
families who returned each winter after their first 
visit. In the severe storm of 1910 the wharf was 
destroyed, and also the hoteL A new hotel will 
be erected later, but (1912) there is no accom- 
modation of that kind now. The beach at Na- 
ples is unexcelled for surf bathing, and life there 



298 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

is free from all conventional restraint. Estero 
Pass on the way to Naples is a famous fishing 
point. 

From Naples the way is short to Marco Pass, 
14 m. On the islands on each side are groves of 
cocoanut trees. Marco Key (15 m.) is a high is- 
land with good soil, and there are plantations and 
groves there, all thriving. The town of Marco 
is on the northern shore looking out on Collier 
Bay. There is good fishing all about, and the 
shooting is excellent. (Hotels, see list.) There 
is also a marine ways here. To the yachtman all 
these waters are a veritable paradise. There is 
a store at Marco where supplies can be bought. 
Howe's Island is also the site of plantations, and 
landings can be made. The same configuration 
common to all the islands is found — white sand 
beach, mud flats, and mangroves making new 
land. 

Caxambas Pass separates Marco from Caxam- 
bas Islands. There is a pineapple plantation of 
great extent on this island, and vegetables are 
raised here in profusion, — Jamaica sorrel, gua- 
vas, figs. Game is abundant, and fish of every 
kind abound. On most of the islands there are 
^ traces of aboriginal Indians' visits. The pend- 
ants and shells found on Marco are very curious, 
and an object of wrought-wood has held anti- 
quarian's interest. 

From Marco, south, the only way for public 
travel is by the mail launch which leaves Marco 
on the arrival of the mail, for Caxambas and 
Chocolaskee — but this is ideal cruising ground 
for small or light draught boats. In fact, all of 
the Coast waterways from Tampa Bay down 




u 






CO 



CJ 

c 

(L) 







B 
o 

u 

C 



o 



C/3 

o 

a. 

a. 



h 



JACKSONVILLE TO FORT MYERS 299 

to Cape Sable, and from there around and up the 
East Coast to Fernandina, are most interestmg 
and unique (see p. 323). (At all ports boats can 
be hired for short cruises, but at Tampa, Fort 
Myers, and especially Miami, there are many 
to be had, of every size, model and kind.) 



THE CALOOSAHATCHEE RIVER 

The Caloosahatchee river is one of the most 
interesting waterways in Florida. Its name 
"' Crooked River " tells of its winding course. 
Its semi-tropic latitude makes for a wealth of 
flora that is seen on no other navigable waterway 
in the State. The 45 miles from Fort Myers to 
Fort Thompson are all replete with interest. [A 
line of steamers makes two trips daily from Fort 
Myers to Fort Thompson (45 m.). Meals and 
staterooms on board.] From its mouth to Fort 
Myers it is not beautiful ; long mud flats and 
narrow channels with stretches of uncovered sand 
and oyster bars at low tide are uninteresting. 
The fringing distant pine woods show none of 
the beauty a closer view would discover, but the 
banks approach each other suddenly just above 
Fort Myers, and the river is not more than a 
quarter of a mile wide there. 

The steamer passes along the town's water 
shore, past the Country Club grounds and wharf, 
and the mouth of Orange river. [Up this river 
is Buckingham. This stream is navigable and 
of rare beauty (10 m.).] Upcohall on the south 
bank is the first stop. The scenery has been 
made diversified by the clearing away of the 
growth of forest along the river in places where 
now are beautiful citrus groves and pineapple 
farms. The mirroring water, the garlanded live 
and water oaks, stately palmettoes, willows, the 
wild sapadilloes, the feathery palms, the wild 
300 



THE CALOOSAHATCHEE RIVER 301 

tamarind, gumbolimbos, swamp bays and climb- 
ing vines and cypress, orchids, the undergrowth 
of ferns and shrubs, make a varied and ever 
charming scene. Birds accent the picture. 

Rialto (16 m.), then Caloosa (19 m.), Owanita 
(22 m.), and Alva (23 m.), all on the north bank, 
are passed. The stream is deep and narrow, and 
the banks high. There are legends of prehistoric 
people. Mounds, sherds and celts are found, and 
are interesting points for the ethnological stu- 
dent. Game is known to be roaming in the 
country back from both sides of the river. To 
the northeast is the Big Cypress, to the south 
and east the Everglades and the Okaloacoochie 
Slough and the site of old Fort Simon Drum. 
The winding river seems to be leading out of 
present into past and primitive times. The vege- 
tation becomes more luxuriant, the river more 
winding, and an occasional alligator is seen or 
heard slipping from his sunning place into the 
water. 

Fort Dinand (33 m.) was a depot of supplies 
during the First Seminole War. Turner's (38 
m.) is in the very heart of this beautiful region. 
At La Belle (43 m.) there is a steel bridge cross- 
ing the river. The river is very beautiful here, 
and the country home of Senator Hendry was 
the pioneer estate in this neighborhood. Post 
office. La Belle. (Hotels, see list.) 

Fort Thompson (45 m.) is the terminus of the 
steamer line. Here the vegetation is particu- 
larly beautiful, and the country round about is 
a veritable land of delight for the sportsman. 
The varied scene, the long reaches of greenery 
of every kind, the sheets of water with pic- 



302 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

turesque tropic islands, the knowledge that the 
feathered, furred, and finned inhabitants of land 
and water have been practically undisturbed by 
civilized man, enhance the charm to the sports- 
man and tourist. The hotel is comfortable, with 
good water, electric light, and telephone to Fort 
Myers. A park of 8,000 acres belonging to the 
hotel is open to its guests for shooting, fishing, 
and woodscraft. Guides and equipment can be 
procured. Lake Flirt lies to the east, an attrac- 
tive body of water. A canal has been dredged 
from here to Lake Hicpochee, and from there 
through Big Saw Grass to Lake Okeechobee, but 
it was not well done and did not meet the pur- 
pose of its construction, but water communica- 
tion between the lake and Fort Thompson is 
maintained by it. A large mOund to the north 
between Lake Flirt and Hicpochee and remains 
to the south show the occupation of this section 
by aborigines. 



JACKSONVILLE TO ST. PETERSBURG 

(Via Atlantic Coast Line — 175 m., 12 hrs.) 

Rochelle to Palatka, 40 m., i^ hrs. 

Ocala to Homosassa, 48 m., 3 to 4 hrs. 

Ocahumpka to Yalala, 23, m. 

From Jacksonville to Baldwin (19 m.) (see 
p. 274). The line then turns to the southwest 
and passes McPherson (27 m.), Turkey Creek 
(29 m.), Bessent (31 m.), Sapp (38 m.), Ellerbee 
(42 m.), Raiford (45 m.), Varnes (48 m.), and 
reaches Lake Butler (52 m.), situated on the 
south shore of the lake of the same name (one 
of three in the State). The Ga., Southern & 
Fla. Railroad crosses here from Lake City to 
Palatka. 

Heirs (59 m.) is the next station. Worthing- 
ton Springs (61 m.) at a spring tributary to the 
Santa Fe river, is a resort, the waters are tonic 
and of value in anemic conditions. It is a beau- 
tiful country about this spring; pine woods, ham- 
mock and the river, with its semi-tropical flora, 
but there is no special accommodation for tour- 
ists. The Santa Fe river is next crossed. Santa 
Fe (64 m.) and Haynesworth (68 m.) follow. 
Burnett's Lake (71 m.) is a junction point for the 
A. C. L. from Palatka to High Springs ; a branch 
connection to Newbury and Perry, and is also 
a crossing point for the S. A. L. from Stark to 
Wannee. 

Alachua {J2 m.) is situated in the midst of a 
farming country. The peculiar formation of the 
land in Alachua county makes a very fertile and 
303 



304 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

well-drained soil. The porous limestone, sub- 
terranean streams, the phosphate deposits, the 
" sinks " and extensive prairies, all afford an in- 
teresting page in the earth's book to the tourist 
interested in geology. Prosperous plantations 
have existed in this neighborhood dating from the 
time of the Seminole pacification. (Hotels, see 
list.) 

Hague (74 m.). Paradise (80 m.), and Gaines- 
ville (85 m.), a v^ell governed and prosperous 
town. The agricultural prosperity of the 
country about it, the turpentine and lumber in- 
terests and varied industries contribute to its 
commercial importance. Its sanitation and pub- 
lic improvements are good. It is of more inter- 
est to the settler than to the winter visitor. The 
East Florida Seminary and Military Institute af- 
ford good educational facilities. (Hotels, see 
list.) The S. A. L. from Jacksonville to Cedar 
Keys (p. 278) crosses here and there is also a line 
south to Fairfield. 

The railroad turns eastward, Paine's Prairie 
is crossed to Kelly's Mills (92 m.). The south- 
ern end of Lake Pithlachoco is skirted to Ro- 
chelle (94 m.). 

An A. C. L. branch line from Rochelle to Pal- 
atka (40 m., ij hrs.) passes through a section of 
country diversified by pine woods and cultivated 
lands, with occasional lakes, hammocks, streams 
and stretches of swamp. The stations are: 
Hawthorne (9 m.), Edgar (18 m.), Interlachen 
(22 m.), most charmingly situated, Hollister 
(27 m.), Francis (35 m.) and Palatka (40 m., 
p. 224). 



JACKSONVILLE TO ST. PETERSBURG 305 

The way now turns to the south. Micanopy 
Junction (100 m.) where an A. C. L. branch line 
diverges to Micanopy and Tacoma (10 m., J hr.). 

Evinston (102 m.), Boardman (103 m.) and 
Mcintosh (105 m.) all lie to the west of Orange 
Lake, and Orange Lake (107 m.) is on its shore. 
At Proctor (108 m.) an A. C. L. branch line runs 
to Citra (6 m., 25 min.). Reddick (iii m.), Low- 
ell (114 m.), Martin (117 m.), Kendrick (121 m.), 
and Mount Tabor (123 m.) are passed. 

Ocala (124 m., pop. 4,370), is the county seat 
of Marion county, and is one of the most attrac- 
tive and prosperous of the smaller towns of the 
State. Its situation on high land, with good 
drainage, makes it healthful. The water supply 
is good. There are all the conveniences of mod- 
ern city life added to an environment of semi- 
tropical gardens and luxurious forest growth. 
The streets are paved with brick, and are wide 
and shaded by magnolias, bays, oaks, elms, 
maples and gums. There is much social life 
here during the winter — amusements of all sorts, 
both in and out-of-doors. Motoring, driving, 
tennis and a round of country sports fill the days 
• — and fetes in the moonlight, dances, and lec- 
tures and plays succeed each other evenings. 
The richness of the county has made Ocala pros- 
perous and there are many men of wealth who 
are year-round residents. 

While there is good shooting in the country 
near by, it is not so much a factor in the life 
here as elsewhere in Florida. The soil and sub- 
soil vary from pure sand to waxy clay, and the 
land is undulating and well-drained. The best 
farming lands are a rich loam, and there are 



3o6 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

muck and humus lands in some parts of the 
county which are admirably suited for growing 
vegetables, and truck gardening is a large in- 
dustry. 

Through the pine woods roam large herds of 
native cattle, and the good grazing has caused a 
development of the cattle industry. Stock 
farmers are importing good beef and dairy ani- 
mals. There are large herds of pure bred swine, 
and great progress is being made in the improve- 
ment of the " razor back." Sheep also do well, 
and there are many flocks in the county. Driv- 
ing, coach and saddle horses, and mules are also 
reared. Poultry thrives, and chicken farming is 
a growing industry. Turpentine farms abound 
and lumber mills are well supplied with material. 

Phosphate mines were first'discovered in this 
county about twenty years ago, and the ore is 
of very high grade and finds an eager market. 
The limestone deposits in the county have only 
a light overlaying burden, and many thousand 
barrels of lime are burned each year. 

The county was a vast forest primitively, with 
yellow pine, cypress, oak, ash, gum, hickory, mag- 
nolia, bay, iron-wood, elm and maples, with many 
wild oranges and lemons. The hammocks that 
have not been cleared are groves of splendid 
trees. Walks through them, with their vines, 
mosses and shrubs, and semi-tropical under- 
growth, are most interesting. There are many 
small lakes in the county, most of them free from 
marshy banks, their water clear and filled with 
fish — trout, bass, perch, sunfish and bream. 
About these lakes are many winter residences, 
and in the little villages accommodations for 



JACKSONVILLE TO ST. PETERSBURG 307 

winter visitors are found. Orange Lake and 
Lake Weir are both beautiful sheets of water. 
Lake Weir, with its bluffs of forest and citrus 
groves, its white sand, and blue transparent 
water, is particularly attractive. 

The Ocala Forest Reserve, of over 200,000 
acres, created by President Roosevelt, in the east- 
ern part of the county, is a finely wooded region 
containing many beautiful lakes. There are 
miles of good hard-surfaced roads, built of clay 
and limestone, leading in every direction through 
the county. Excursons can be made to the lakes 
in the vicinity, to Silver Springs and then to Con- 
ner where the Ocklawaha can be crossed. The 
upper part of the Ocklawaha is seldom visited, 
but the semi-tropical jungle, hammock and 
swamp are very beautiful, and can be reached by 
the Sharp's Ferry road. (Hotels, see list.) 

The S. A. L. from Jacksonville to Tampa 
(p. 253) has a station at Ocala, and from Silver 
Springs Junction there is connection to Silver 
Springs (6 m.), the terminus of the Ocklawaha 
trip (p. 236). 

The A. C. L. branch line to Homosassa (48 m., 
3 to 4 hrs.) starts at Ocala. Connection is made 
at Ocala Junction (i m.) with the through trains 
from Jacksonville to St. Petersburg. The road 
passes through a well settled country, slightly 
rolling gardens and sandy stretches, and fine yel- 
low-pine woods, where turpentine farmers and 
sawmills have been at work. Agnew (4 m.) and 
Martel (9 m.) are both on the hard-surfaced road 
to Juliette. Three miles northwest of Martel is 
Cotton Plant, an old settlement. York (13 m.), 



3o8 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

one mile south of its station, on a branch of the 
Ocala & Southwestern R. R. Leroy (14 m.) is 
in the phosphate country. Though there are 
many lakes and ponds there are no swamps here, 
because of the subterranean drainage, and Rock 
Springs (17 m.) is in a healthy locality. North 
of here (5 m.) are the Eagle Mines, where some 
of the most productive of the phosphate beds are 
found, the rock being especially rich in phos- 
phoric acid. At Juliette (21 m.) the railroad 
joins the A. C. L. main line south — the West 
Coast Route — and after passing Romeo (23 m.) 
(Rockwell P. O.), it reaches Dunnellon (26 m.) 
on the north bank of the Withlacoochee river. 
The original mine here, discovered in 1889, is 
producing large quantities of phosphate-bearing 
rock which is all exported. 

The river is crossed at Gulf Junction (27 m.), 
where the road diverges, from the West Coast 
Route, to the southwest. Citronelle (34 m.) and 
Park Place (38 m.) are followed by Crystal 
River (40 m.), a popular resort for sportsmen. 
The little town is on the river, which is navigable 
from its mouth (12 m.). It empties into the Gulf 
at Sweetwater Keys. To the north 10 miles, 
is the mouth of the Withlacoochee river, an in- 
teresting stream with wooded banks, winding 
and deep, much frequented by naturalists and 
sportsmen. (Hotels, see list.) 

Homosassa (48 m.) has been long a resort for 
sportsmen in search of pleasure, both afield and 
afloat. The old mansion house of U. S. Senator 
Yulee was here. Senator Yulee's name was 
formerly Levy, an act of legislature giving him 
his new name. Levy county was named for him. 



JACKSONVILLE TO ST. PETERSBURG 309 

He was an active figure in Florida politics thirty 
years ago. The old mansion has been trans- 
formed into a hotel. In the old times there was 
a very prosperous plantation life around Homo- 
sassa. The town has grown in favor until now 
there is a large winter population. It is situated 
ID miles from the open Gulf, on the river. It 
has shady streets, and the semi-tropical flora, and 
winter cottages of yearly visitors. (Hotels, see 
list.) 

The river is navigable to the Gulf. Cedar logs, 
cut from the adjacent hammocks, are rafted down 
and then taken to Cedar Keys for the mills 
there (p. 278). From the town for four miles the 
way is between shores covered with a dense 
growth of cabbage palms and luxuriant hammock 
of hard woods. Then the river winds through 
coralline islands, and is studded with oyster bars. 
To the north, 5 miles, around Martin's Key is 
good fishing. To the south is the Chassowikee 
river (10 m.). There are many black rocks, 
" nigger heads," making the way dangerous, a^d 
the same impeding oyster bars in the channel, 
but it is a favorite place for visitors. The river 
itself is worth exploring and rises from a spring 
of great beauty. Further on is Bayport (10 m.) 
at the mouth of the Weekinachee river, an old 
settlement with a history of activity in the block- 
ade times during the Civil War. There are lemon 
and orange trees in the neighborhood. The 
spring in which the river rises is 50 feet deep 
and is filled with fish and aquatic plants. The 
rainbow hues of all objects beneath the 
water make them a very curious and beautiful 
sight. 



310 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

From Ocala the railroad passes to the south 
through a beautiful lake country, filled with 
orange groves, gardens and cultivated lands; 
passes Eichelberger (130 m.), Montague (133 m.), 
Welshton (136 m.), Chandler (139 m.) on Smith 
Lake, Ocklawaha (142 m.) and reaches the east 
shore of Lake Weir. Here are numerous small 
stations, all environed with country places, and 
charming villas. Weir Park (142 m.). East Weir 
(145 m.). East Lake (146 m.) and Weirsdale 
(147 m.), from where a branch line connects with 
the S. A. L. at Summersfield, nine miles away. 

Conant (149 m.). Lady Lake (152 m.) and 
Fruitland (157 m.) are passed to Leesburg 
(160 m.). 

Leesburg (pop. 991), charmingly situated be- 
tween Lake Harris and Lake Griffin, is one of the 
most attractive residential towns in this State. 
It has all modern municipal improvements, and 
all the attractions of other cities in the lake dis- 
trict. Its business interests are extensive and 
its social and educational advantages good. The 
Florida Conference College is located here. 
(Hotels, see list.) 

The S. A. L. from Wildwood to Lake Charm 
(70 m.) crosses at Leesburg, and a branch of the 
A. C. L. runs to Aster and Sanford (p. 229). 

Leaving Leesburg the railroad passes along 
the west side of Lake Harris, through beautiful 
country to Corley's (162 m.) and Helena (163 m.). 

At Okahumpka (165 m.) an A. C. L. branch 
line runs to Yalala (23 m.) along the south shore 
of the lake, crossing a little river (5 m.) on which 
there are several settlements. Waldemere (9 







o 

o 





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* 






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4 






i 






* 






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<4 


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4 




X 


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JACKSONVILLE TO ST. PETERSBURG 311 

m.), Bloomfield (15 m.) and Yalala (23 m.) on 
the lake shore. 

Cason (170 m.), Center Hill (174 m.), Webster 
(179 m.) and St. Catherines (184 m.) where the 
S. A. L. south crosses. 

At Croom (190 m.), the A. C. L. West Coast 
Route to Tampa has a station, and an A. C. L. 
branch line extends to Brookville (10 m.) a thriv- 
ing little town from which a local railroad — 
Tampa Northern — has lines, one to the west to 
Tooke Lake (15 m.), and one south to Tampa, 
having a branch at Fivay Junction, connecting 
with Fivay, Hudson on the Gulf, and Sagano. 
From Fivay Junction it runs to Drexel on the 
A. C. L. 

The way is now along the main West Coast 
Route by Oriole (193 m.). Bay City (195 m.) to 
Trilby (199 m.) a prettily situated little town on 
the border of Lake Du Maurier. The streets 
are named for the characters in the novel from 
which the town takes its name. An A. C. L. 
branch line from Sanford ends here. 

The railroad now turns to the southwest and 
passes Lenard (loi m.), Blanton (103 m.), Chipco 
(107 m.), St. Leo (iii m.) where the St. Leo 
Military College is located, San Antonio (113 m.), 
Pasco (115 m.), Shingleton (118 m.), Ehren 
(22 m.), Drexel (226 m.) where the Tampa 
Northern crosses, Odessa (232 m.) to Keystone 
Park (236 m.). A small creek and the northern 
end of Lake Butler are crossed. 

Tarpon Springs (243 m.) is a most picturesque 
town and is the center of one of the most famous 
hunting and fishing districts in Florida. It is 



312 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

a mile and a half from the Gulf, and the springs 
are supposed to be the outlet for the beautiful 
Lake Butler, which lies east of the town. They 
bubble up from an apparently bottomless hole 
with ragged edges which prevent sounding — a 
depth of 200 feet has been reached by the line, 
when an obstruction was met ; on being loosened 
it dropped a little farther, and broke. The water 
ebbs and flows synchronously with the tide's rise 
and fall. There are many winter residents, and 
the cottage life is a feature of the place. (Hotels, 
see list.) 

The surrounding country has been a resort 
since the times of the aborigines, whose mounds 
for burial and kitchen middens are found on the 
mainland and on Anclote Keys, opposite An- 
clote at the mouth of the river in the Gulf. There 
is at Anclote an old mill dating from Spanish 
times, and all about are traces of occupation by 
more recent proprietors. Two miles to the north 
is the estate of the Duke of Sutherland. Sponge 
Harbor on the Gulf near by has long been the 
seat of an extensive sponging industry. These 
points can be reached by boats. An interesting 
excursion can be made also up the river, the semi- 
tropical flora and luxuriant growths being at 
their best in the winter season. The river is 
narrow, deep and winding and near its source is 
a beautiful sulphur spring. There are many 
amusements. Guides and boats may be hired, 
and from long usage the facilities for hunting 
and shooting are of the best sort. 

Sea Side (246 m.), then Sutherland (248 m.) 
a favorite winter resort and the site of the South- 
ern Methodist College. 



JACKSONVILLE TO ST. PETERSBURG 313 

At Ozona (249 m.) the railroad enters Pinellas 
Peninsula, lying between Old Tampa Bay and 
the Gulf of Mexico. The town is on the shore of 
Clearwater Harbor. Opposite, to the west, is 
Hog Key, the first of a chain of keys to the south, 
making a sheltered waterway for fishing and 
cruising. 

Dunedin (253 m.) is in a most attractive loca- 
tion on a high blufif on the mainland, and is a 
sportsman's resort. There are many interesting 
prehistoric remains in the neighborhood. Clear- 
water Pass, a narrow way to the open gulf be- 
tween St. Joseph and Clearwater Key, is opposite 
the town. 

Clearwater (256 m.), is a thriving town and 
much frequented by tourists. (Hotels, see list.) 

At Belleair (257 m.), Belleview Hotel is large 
and fashionable and around it centers the social 
life of Pinellas Peninsula. Its site is ideal, on 
a bluff, the highest point, midway of the penin- 
sula. The land breezes from the east are tem- 
pered by the waters of Old Tampa Bay and then 
softened by their transit through the fragrant 
resinous woods to the east. The hotel provides 
many amusements for guests, and as at Miami 
and Fort Myers, the extremes of life — conven- 
tional and unconventional — meet. The climate 
has much of the sweet softness of that of the 
towns farther south, with just a little more cool- 
ness in the air. In the early winter (January and 
half of February) there are days when warm 
wraps are comfortable. The Harbor to the west 
is filled with boats, and no more ideal spot for 
bathing, sailing, motoring and rowing can be 
found. The way is shoal to the south behind 



314 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Sand Key, but the Gulf can be reached by Little 
Clearwater Pass. 

The railroad now leaves the coast and traverses 
highlands toward the southeast with open pine 
woods and hammocks. Armour (258 m.). 
Largo (260 m.), (hotel, see list) pretty lake to 
the west, Lellman (269 m.) and St. Petersburg 
(274 m.) to St. Petersburg Wharf (275 m.) on 
Tampa Bay, the terminus of the railroad. 

The location of St. Petersburg (pop. 4,127) on 
the east side of the Pinellas Peninsula on the 
shore of Tampa Bay is ideal. Its growth has 
been phenomenally fast. It was a mere hamlet 
with not 300 people in 1890; 1,575 was the census 
mark in 1900; now the winter population is fully 
20,ocx). Naturally the town has kept pace in 
civic progress and there is every modern requi- 
site for comfortable and luxurious life indoors. 
The streets are well paved, the shops are filled 
with merchandise of the best sort. The markets 
teem with the first fruits and vegetables of the 
season; tropical fruits abound. Game of every 
kind is to be had, and sea-food of every variety 
to be bought is at its best. Amusements of all 
sorts are provided for the visitors. Sportsmen 
find it easy to make excursions afield and afloat, 
and come back to absolute twentieth century 
comfort; the preserves on sea and shore are at 
the very door of the town. 

The view of the town rising away from the 
water is a very attractive one. There are many 
orange groves and plantations about the town. 
Winter hom.es are built in the midst of gardens 
along the line of the street cars and on the water 
front. Semi-tropical fruits grow in profusion, 



i! 

i 



JACKSONVILLE TO ST. PETERSBURG 315 

and through the open high pine woods are the 
citrus groves of year round residents. There 
are many interesting Indian mounds and remains 
in the neighborhood. 

The waters about are famed angling grounds. 
The tarpon season brings its specializing sports- 
men, but all winter good sport awaits the fisher- 
man. Boats can be hired, guides and equipment 
also. To round the point, passing out with Eg- 
mont Key Light to port, into the Gulf and along 
by Mullet, Arenosa and Pine Keys, going be- 
hind Long Key to Boca Ciega Bay, is a cruise 
that is rewarded by the fish, the birds, shells and 
natural beauty that are found on the way. 

There is no large resort or town on the West 
Coast so completely given up to the winter visi- 
tors as St. Petersburg. (Hotels, see list.) 

There is an electric railroad to Boca Ciega 
Bay by which connection can be made for excur- 
sions to Pas a Grille. 

St. Petersburg has become a port of call for 
the ocean lines to Port Tampa. The P. and O. 
and Mallory steamers stop regularly. There 
are two boats daily to Tampa, and a boat to Man- 
atee river and Bradentown, sailing from the 
public wharfs built out into the bay. 



FROM JACKSONVILLE TO BURNETTS 
LAKE AND PERRY 

(Via A. C. L.— i6i m.) 

There are no through trains over this route. 
Leaving Jacksonville the traveler follows the 
route to St. Petersburg as far as Burnett's Lake 
(71 m., see p. 303). The S. A. L. crosses here. 
From here the line diverges to the southwest, 
passes Cadillac (77 m.), Komoko (82 m.) and 
Newbury (85 m.). The latter place is a junction 
with the A. C. L. from Jacksonville to Fort 
Myers. 

The railroad now turns to the west and passes 
through a part of Alachua county, similar in 
general appearance to that about Dunnellon 
(p. 308), sinks, pine lands, stretches of white sand 
gleaming through the trees, low growing oak 
scrub and hammocks of hard wood. Tyler 
(94 m.), Trenton (98 m.), Lottiesville (loi m.) 
and Wilcox (105 m.) are passed, and the Suwanee 
river is crossed to Old Town (109 m.) Fort Fan- 
nin is three miles to the southeast. 

Lafayette county, which is now entered, is 
well wooded, and its possibilities have only been 
exploited in the direction of turpentine farming 
and lumbering, except in the northwestern por- 
tion. The settlements are unimportant, and the 
poverty of the '* cracker " farmers is augmented 
by the lack of communication. Clay-eaters are 
still found in the remote districts, and some of 
316 



JACKSONVILLE TO PERRY 317 

the native negroes approach the original Afri- 
cans in their primitiveness. The stations are : 
Eugene (114 m.), Cross City (117 m.), Hines 
(127 m.), and Jonesboro (130 m.). The Stein- 
hatchee river is crossed to Clara (134 m.) in Day- 
ton county. Steinhatchee is a settlement twelve 
miles up the river from Clara, near v^hich was 
Fort Barker. At the mouth of the river (10 m. 
south) is Fort Francis Barker and Jena, the 
former a settlement and fortification. 

Salem (142 m.) is the next station, then Athena 
(150 m.) at the lower end of a chain of lakes 
which form the source of the Warrior river. 
Finland (161 m.) is at the north end of the first 
lake. Both forks of the Fenholloway river are 
then crossed, and Perry (161 m.), the end of the 
line, is reached. Hampton Springs, about six 
miles southwest, reached by a short railroad, is 
a resort much frequented because of the curative 
properties of the chalybeate waters. 

From Perry there is connection by local roads 
with the towns to the east in Taylor and north- 
ern Lafayette counties. 



WAYCROSS, GA., TO PORT TAMPA, FLA. 
(Via the Atlantic Coast Line — 311 m., 15 hrs.) 

Route through Live Oak, Lake City, High Springs, 
Juliette, Croom, Trilby, Lakeland and Tampa. 

A through train service from Waycross, Ga., 
and its northern connections, reaches Port Tampa 
in fifteen hours, making all the stops. Leaving 
Waycross, the way is through Georgia to Baker's 
Mills (63 m.). At Jasper (76 m.) the Ga. South- 
ern & Fla. R. R. is crossed. The Jasper Normal 
Institute is located here. The next station is 
Marion (72 m,), and then Suwanee Springs 
(76 m.), on the river of the same name, famed in 
song, a much frequented resort — the springs for 
their healing properties, the river for its beauty 
of wooded banks and mirroring waters. 

Live Oak (83 m., pop. 3,450) is an old town, 
being a center for planters of earlier days. 
(Hotels, see list.) The Suwanee & San Pedro 
R. R. terminates here, also the L. O. & G. R. R. 
The S. A. L. from Jacksonville to Tallahassee 
and the west crosses here. 

Through this section the country is of no 
special interest to the tourist. Padlock (88 m.), 
Pine Mount (93 m.), McAlpin (94 m.), O'Brien 
(loi m.) and Branford (106 m.) are small places. 
The Suwanee river is crossed. Hildreth (113 m.) 
is passed to Lake City Junction (117 m.), where 
the A. C. L. branch from High Springs to Lake 
City (33 m.) leaves the main line. 
318 



WAYCROSS, GA, TO PORT TAMPA, FLA. 319 

The Sante Fe river is crossed. High Springs 
(120 m.) is a health resort. From here trains 
are run over a branch line to Lake City ( 33 m.) 
two or three times a day, by way of Lake City 
Junction. Connection may be had from High 
Springs to Palatka by way of Rochelle. Con- 
sult local time tables. 

At Clark (135 m.) the S. A. L. line to Wannee 
on the Suwanee river is crossed. Then come 
Wades (137 m.), Lexington (141 m.) and New- 
bury (143 m.), where the A. C. L. from Burnett 
Lake to Perry is crossed. (See p. 316.) 

Half Moon (147 m.), then Archer (153 m.), 
also a station on the S. A. L. R. R. from Jackson- 
ville to Cedar Keys, and on another branch to 
Dunnellon. 

Williston, (164 m.), Montbrook (168 m.) and 
Morriston (173 m.) are all stations on the S. A. L. 
Romeo (178 m.). Juliette (185 m.) is where the 
A. C. L. branch line from Ocala to Homosassa 
joins the way. Dunnellon (189 m., see p. 308) is 
the next stop. 

At Gulf Junction (191 m.) the Homosassa line 
leaves the main line. The country becomes more 
tropical, and in Citrus county there is a suc- 
cession of lakes to the east, while the high pine 
lands continue to the west. Rodas (194 m.), 
Holder (196 m.) and Hernando (202 m.) are 
passed, and the railroad follows the west shore 
of Lake Tsala-Apopka to Rock Mines (203 m.), 
Arlington (204 m.) and Inverness (207 m.) on the 
lake shore. 

Floral City (214 m.) is also beautifully situated, 
with a lake to the east. Istachatta (221 m.) is 
in Hernando county. At Croom (227 m.) an 



320 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

A. C. L. branch line extends to Brookville (see 

p. 3ii)- 

Trilby (243 m.) is the crossing of the A. C. L. 
from Miami to St. Petersburg. Dade City 
(248 m.), also a station on the A. C. L., is in the 
midst of a prosperous farming country. Rich- 
land (249 m.) and Lumberton (252 m.), then the 
Hillsboro river is crossed to Millard (254 m.). 
Then follow Stokes (258 m.), Kathleen (262 m.) 
and Galloway (265 m.). 

At Lakeland (270 m.) the main line from Jack- 
sonville, via Sanford, is reached, and the train 
follows it to Tampa (301 m., see p. 268). The 
Hillsboro river is crossed to Tampa Bay Hotel, 
West Tampa (302 m.), Port Tampa City (308 
m.), and Port Tampa (311 m.) the end of the line. 



THE INLAND WATERWAYS 

FROM 

NEW YORK TO KEY WEST, FLORIDA 

edited by 
FREDERICK FRELINGHUYSEN DUMONT 



THE INLAND WATERWAYS 
New York to Key West, Florida. 

Depth of draft possible on the routed way from New 
York to Jacksonville, 7 feet; from New York to 
Key West, and generally in Florida waters, 4 feet. 

The coast of Florida, especially the East Coast, 
with its protected waters, has long been a delight- 
ful cruising ground for small boats. Because of 
the shoalness of many of the most interesting 
waterways, the draft of boats is greatly restricted. 
Special types have been developed and evolved 
until now these waters, from November until 
May, are filled with pleasure craft and their own- 
ers, who are attracted by the boating itself, or 
by the fishing and shooting. For many years 
small craft have gone down the coast from New 
York to Jacksonville, then out to sea, to put in 
at the various inlets between the Keys, and to 
spend the winter on summer seas. The opening 
of the Inland Waterway from the St. John's river 
to Biscayne Bay by the United States Govern- 
ment and the Florida East Coast Transportation 
& Canal Company, and various co-operating 
yacht clubs and individuals, has made it possible 
for a boat drawing four feet and less, to go all 
the way inside land protection from Jackson- 
ville to the waters between the Keys and the 
mainland. Owners are building boats, suitable 
for sound and river cruising in the North, that 
have the shoal draft necessary for Florida cruis- 
323 



324 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

ing, and many of these make the journey along 
the Atlantic coast twice a year. It is for these 
boats that this chapter is written. 

Too much cannot be said of the interest and 
beauty of the cruise from New York to Florida, 
and it is conceded that, given a shoal boat, there 
is no more ideal winter yachting ground within 
the reach of Americans on their own continent, 
and climatically there is none as attractive in 
any other part of the world in the winter season. 

There is no doubt that the National Govern- 
ment will some day improve the shoal channels 
between New York and Jacksonville until there 
is a continuous waterway of sufficient depth to 
be used commercially. A Commission is in 
charge of this work at Washington. 

Distances 

From New York to Key West, 1,723! miles. 

From New York to Jacksonville, 1,185 miles. 

From Jacksonville to Key West, 538J miles. 

Open sea from Beaufort to Charleston, 210 
miles. 

Open sea from Fernandina to Jacksonville, 25 
miles. 

Hawks Channel, Bahia Honda to Key West, 
36I miles. 

Duration of Cruise 

The time required for. the journey from New 
York to Jacksonville is from three to five weeks. 

Character of the Cruise 

The Inland Waterway from New York to 
Key West lies through bays, sounds, rivers, 



^.L^^ 




(75 



C 

U 

c 




c 






NEW YORK TO KEY WEST 325 

creeks, dredged cuts and canals, with one stretch 
of open sea, and one ocean channel protected by 
a submerged coral reef. In the bays and sounds 
the course is buoyed and well-marked, both day 
and night. In the wide rivers there are also 
marks for the deepest channel, while in the nar- 
rower ones the configuration of the shore, and 
often local stakes, etc., are guides for the best 
water. Dredged cuts have their entrances at 
each end marked. The canals have good ap- 
proaches well marked. 

Canal Rules 

The canals between New York and Beaufort 
have special rules and regulations, toll sheets, 
etc., which can be obtained at each Canal Com- 
pany's office. Those in Florida are described 
later (p. 356). 

The following are a few general rules which 
apply to all the canals, and are really all the 
yachtsman needs : 

For boats under their own power: 

1. The draft and beam of the boat must not 
exceed the company's allowed measurements. 

2. Strong cleats, or kevels, and lines shall be 
ready for making fast in the locks or elsewhere. 

3. Each sailing vessel shall have its jibboom 
rigged in, yards braced fore and aft, and anchors 
stowed away. 

4. The clearance given at the Collector's office 
when the toll is paid shall be exhibited on request 
to each lock-tender who may ask it, and delivered 
at the last lock, if so ruled. 

5. No vessel shall carry sail in canal or in 
feeders. 



S26 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

6. When approaching a lock or bridge notice 
shall be given on arriving within 300 yards of 
same by horn, bell or whistle. 

7. The speed rule in each canal should be 
rigorously observed. 

8. Boats under their own power shall " slow 
up " when passing other boats that may be in 
motion, or at anchor, until entirely past. 

9. Boats shall not tie up within 300 yards of 
a lock, or 100 yards of a bridge, or in a place 
where navigation may be obstructed, or abreast 
of another vessel, unless directed or permitted to 
do so by a canal official. 

10. Boats shall only tie along the banks of the 
canal where piles have been driven for coming to. 

11. At locks where there are several boats, 
precedence is given to the larger ones. The canal 
official determines the turn of the boat for go- 
ing into the lock. While waiting for their turn, 
boats should be along the bank not used as a 
tow path. The locks should be entered with 
caution. Headway must not be checked by 
reversing the engines in a lock, nor can the mo- 
tion be checked by fastening to a lock gate or 
bridge. No rubbish or offensive matter may 
be thrown in the canal. There are towing com- 
panies for yachts without power, and the yacht 
towed by such is governed by the rules made 
for them. 

12. In passing boats towed from the towpaths 
they must be given the right of way along the 
side of the canal on which the towpath runs. 

Charts 

Charts should be bought for all the way, and 



NEW YORK TO KEY WEST 327 

should be used in connection with the text fol- 
lowing. The numbers given later are those of 
the charts of the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Sur- 
vey, and they can be obtained at the government 
depots in Jacksonville, Miami, Key West and 
Tampa. 

Books 
Lloyd's Register and the Nautical Almanac 
for the current year give much valuable inform- 
ation — the former as to Yacht Clubs en route, 
their location, and as to the identity of boats 
seen on the way. 

Equipment 

Given the boat chosen of the right draft it 
must have in its equipment a compass and barom- 
eter, and stout poles for shoal places, and must 
be sea-worthy, though dories, and even a papier 
mache canoe have made the journey safely. 

Clothing on the way to Jacksonville, for deck 
wear, a heavy coat, and cap or hood with woolen 
gloves and arctic overshoes, will be found exceed- 
ingly comfortable. From Jacksonville to Palm 
Beach, spring clothing with a deck ulster occa- 
sionally. From Palm Beach summer clothes 
with a deck wrap. A light weight loose raincoat 
for launches and the very rare rains is advisable. 
Commissary and Nautical Supplies, etc. 

The towns where these can be obtained are 
mentioned later. 

Pilots 

Pilots should be taken in all places where the 
sailing master himself is not sure of his course, 
or where there are shifting bars which make the 
charted way uncertain. It is well to get local 



328 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

word from canal officials, dock masters, yacht- 
club stewards and boating men in regard to all 
questions of navigation, as well as to those con- 
cerning supplies, etc. 

Anchorages 

These can be found easily for each night. It 
is customary to make the cruise in daylight. 
Anchoring at inlets should be avoided if possible, 
as the turning tide may unset the anchor. In 
Florida waters it is best to anchor out of creeks 
or narrow places as the mosquitoes are apt to 
come out at night, and so make for discomfort. 
Barometer and General Recommendations 

It is strongly recommended that the barometer 
be carefully watched in all open ways, at inlets 
and especially when approaching and at Beaufort, 
N. C, and that the local weather station there be 
visited for information. The run outside from 
there to Charleston, S. C, should only be made 
when the weather indications are good. It is also 
advised that women leave the boat at Beaufort, 
and go by rail to Charleston, and await her com- 
ing there. Not because of great danger — but 
for comfort — and for the lessening of the men's 
responsibilities in case of an accident. 

The outside run from Fernandina, Fla., to 
Jacksonville of 25 miles, is recommended in good 
weather and as there are no tidal currents the 
sea in this reach is usually like an inland lake. 

Shoal places should always be taken at low 
tide. 

The Environment 

There is much of interest between New York 
and Florida that necessarily is not in the province 



NEW YORK TO CHARLESTON, S. C. 329 

of this book, which aims to include in its pages 
only a guide to the waterway, and does not 
deal with the changing scene on shores, replete 
with varied interests, through which the course 
passes. 

New York to Charleston, S. C. 

The course leaves South Ferry, New 
York, and is across the bay, buoyed 
and marked (see chart), past. 
Chart No. 369. 
j m. Governor's Island Light i and 
ij m. The Statue of Liberty r. At 
4 m. The bell of Robbin's Reef Light, a turn 
is made to enter Kill von KuU chan- 
nel, opposite Tompkinsville, S. L 
At 
5J m. Constable Point r. and New Brighton, 

S. L, 1. are passed. At 
8 m. Bergen Point, N. J., r. and Port Rich- 
mond, S. L, 1. At 
Shooter's Island r. and Mariners' Har- 
bor 1. At 
Elizabethport, N. J., r. is passed. The 

way then lies through 
A railroad drawbridge, and at 
Grassell's Point r. and Prall's Island 
1. are passed. 

15 m. The mouth of Rah way river r. The 
way has been through the Kill von 
Kull. The Arthur Kill is entered, 
and several small settlements are 
passed, and at 

16 m. The upper mouth of Fresh Kills 1. and 
16J m. The lower mouth of Fresh Kills 1. and 



9i 


m. 


I 


m. 


2 


m. 


^^ 


m. 



330 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

17J m. Tuft's pond r. and Rossville 1. 

181 m. The Phila. & Reading R. R. dock 

and Smoking Point I. 
19 m. Story Flats 1. are passed, and at 
20J m. Woodbridge Creek r. At 
20J m. Ploughshare pond r. The way now 

lies between 
Chart No. 375. 
22 m. Tottenville, S. L, 1. and Perth Amboy, 

N. J., r. 
23J m. Staten Island at Ward's Point 1. is left, 

and at 
24 m. A turn is made to go up the Raritan 

river channel. The way is through 
■ South Amboy channel to 
25^ m. South Amboy, N. J., then through the 
26 m. Bridge of N. Y. & L. B. R. R. 
2^^ m. Sandy Point r. is passed. The course 

is through the wide river with 

marshy banks 1., and docks and com- 
mercial plants r., to the 
35^ m. First jetty post light r., following 

along the jetty past the || 

38 m. Second jetty post light r. The way is 

now between the jetties and the 

shore r. to the 
43 m. Third jetty post light 1., then past the 
46 m. Upper end of Crabbe Island 1., through 

the Northwest Reach, passing 
49 m. Sayerville, N. J., 1. and 
51 m. South River Canal 1., then through 

Long Reach in a long loop to 
56 m. The mouth of South River 1., then 

through Rocky Reach, past 
59 m. Martin's Creek r. and 



0^ 



^ 



NEW YORK TO CHARLESTON, S. C. 331 

61 m. Lawrence Creek L 
64 m. Martin's Landing r. is passed and the 
way is between low-lying marshy 
banks to 
71 m. The first lock of the Delaware & Rari- 

tan Canal. 
The Delaware & Raritan Canal extends from 
New Brunswick, N. J., on the Raritan river, to 
Bordentown, N. J., on the Delaware river, passing 
through Bound Brook, Millstone, Kingston and 
Trenton. Its length is 44 miles. Its average 
width is 60 ft. ; average depth, 9 ft. " There are 
eight locks from New Brunswick to Kingston, 
with a double lock at New Brunswick, with a 
united uplift of 58 ft., and six locks from Summit 
Level at Trenton to the Delaware river at Bord- 
entown, with a united uplift of 58 ft. The locks 
are 220 ft. long and 24 ft. wide. There are 22 
bridges, all open drawbridges except the P. R. 
R. bridge at New Brunswick, over the Canal, of 
which the clearance is 50 ft. 

Beam boats allowed, 23 ft. 4 in. ; draft allowed, 
7 ft. ; speed, not to exceed 4J miles per hour. 
Toll, $6.50 for each boat under its own power, 50 
ft. long or less ; $8.00 for each boat, under its own 
power, over 50 ft. long. 
Chart No. 126. 
115 m. Bordentown, end of Delaware & Rari- 
tan Canal. From Bordentown the 
way lies down the Delaware river, 
and is interesting. On each side are 
country places and stretches of cul- 
tivated fields and woodland, dotted 
with little hamlets. At 
I J m. Florence, N. J., 1. is passed. At 



^^2 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

124J m. Bristol, Pa., r. 

125J m. Burlington, Pa., r. 

127J m. Edgemere Park, Pa., r. is opposite the 
mouth of Neshaning Creek 1. 

128J m. Beverly, N. J. 1. 

131J m. Raucocus Creek 1. with Delanco, N. J., 
near its mouth, and Torresdale, Pa., 
r. opposite to it. Head and Chick- 
ens Rock r. is passed and Plum 
Point 1. 

135 m. Riverton, N. J., 1. and Tacony, Pa., r. 

137J m. Bridesburg, Pa., r. and 

I43i m. Philadelphia, Market Street Wharf. 
From Philadelphia down the Delaware river 
the course is buoyed and marked. About 3^ 
miles below Market Street Wharf between Glou- 
cester, Camden, N. J., 1. and Greenwich Point, 
Philadelphia, Pa., r. the first range light is picked 
up if running at night. See chart and follow 
closely. 

1 50 J m. League Island, Pa., U. S. Navy Yard r. 

159J m. Chester Island 1. and opposite it the 
mouth of the Schuylkill river r., 
navigable for eight miles. 

i6o| m^ Chester, Pa., r. a quaint and pretty 
little city. The river gradually 
widens and opposite Chester Rac- 
coon Island 1. is passed at the mouth 
of Raccoon Creek. 

163! m. Marcus Hook, Pa., r. Here is the 
State Quarantine Station. 

170J m. Edgemore Rolling Mills, Pa., r., a very 
extensive plant. 

172 m. The jetties at the mouth of Christiana 
Creek r., navigable to Wilmington, 
Del., two miles. 



NEW YORK TO CHARLESTON, S. C. 333 

173J m. Wilmington N. R. R. and Dupont 
Wharves r., with Deep Water Point 
1. opposite. 
178 m. New Castle, Del., r. opposite Penn's 

Neck, N. J. 
185 m. Delaware City, Del., r. with Pea 
Patch Island 1. Entrance to Ches- 
apeake & Delaware Canal. 
The Chesapeake & Delaware Canal extends 
from Delaware City, Del., to Chesapeake City, 
Md. Its length is fourteen miles. The locks 
are 24 ft. wide and 220 ft. long. There are 
three locks, one at each end and one at St. 
George's, Del. There are six bridges, all open 
drawbridges. 

Beam of boat allowed, 23 ft. 4 in. ; draft of boats 
allowed, 9 ft.; speed, not to exceed 4 miles per 
hour. Toll, $4.00 each for boats under 40 tons; 
$6.00 each for boats over 40 tons and under 80 
tons. 

The Canal runs at first through Delaware City 
j m., and after the bridge crosses it, it passes to 
a swamp region by a natural waterway. At 
St. George's bridge (4J m.) the swamp is left, and 
the way is between slightly rolling banks with 
little brooks feeding the main stream, to where 
the railroad crosses (7J m.). The Canal then 
cuts through the country, passing Summit Bridge 
(8J m.) to the upper end of Bear Creek whence 
its way is through natural waters to Chesapeake 
Bay, Md. 
The Canal passes to the south of the city and at 
185J m. There is a drawbridge crossing the 

Canal. At 
189J m. A drawbridge. St. George J m. north, 
and a lock. 



334 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

I92f m. The drawbridge of the Phila. Bait. 
& Wash. R. R. crosses the Canal. 

194 m. The drawbridge of the road to Summit 
Bridge. 

196J m. The State line between Delaware and 
Maryland is crossed just before 

197 m. Pivot Bridge is passed. 

198J m. A drawbridge crosses the Canal, and 

199 m. The entrance to the Canal at Ches- 
apeake City, Md. 
Chart No. 79. 
The Canal enters Chesapeake Bay at the north- 
east end. From there to the entrance of Hamp- 
ton Roads south is a distance of about 200 miles. 
It is the largest bay on the Atlantic coast. Its 
greatest breadth is 20 miles. The water is deep 
and the cruising delightful. There are numerous 
waterways leading into it, and a whole summer - 
could be spent here with varying scenes daily. I 
The environing shores are full of historic inter- 
est, as are the towns and country adjacent to its 
contributing streams. It is only the promise of 
this guide book to note the way through it. The 
course is well marked and there is rarely any 
stress of weather at the season in which the 
yachtsmen are going south. There are numerous 
anchorages throughout its length. The shooting 
and fishing are renowned. 

On leaving Chesapeake City, Md., the way lies 
past Turkey Point, from which, to the northwest 
lies Havre de Grace at the mouth of the Susque- 
hanna river, and Charleston. (The distances in 
Chesapeake Bay are given from points on the di- 
rect course opposite the points named.) 

229 m. Poole's Island r. is passed. At 




prim 




O 
<u 

O 

X 



NEW YORK TO CHARLESTON, S. C. 335 

m. Tolchester Beach 1., a resort for Balti- 
moreans in the summer. 

m. The mouth of the Patapsco river, with 
a 30-foot deep dredged channel to 
Bahimore, Md., 20 miles. 

m. The mouth of the Severn river. (An- 
napolis, Md., 5 m.) 

m. Chesapeake Beach, Md., 1. to the east. 
The cruising 1. is very delightful 
among islands and through pictu- 
resque channels. 

m. The Patuxent river r., and opposite 
Raccoon Island 1. 

m. The Potomac river r. navigable 
through most historically interesting 
country. Tangier Sound 1. 

m. The Rappahannock river r. 

m. The York river, r., w^ith historic York- 
town, Va., near its mouth. 

m. Cape Charles 1. and the way out to 
sea. Here the Bay is left, and 

m. Hampton Roads is entered, with 

m. Fortress Monroe, Va., and Old Point 
Comfort, Va., r., and Willoughby 
Spit 1. 

m. Newport News, Va., r., a busy port 
at the mouth of the James river. 
The way turns to the south through 
Hampton Roads and enters Eliza- 
beth river. West Norfolk, Va., r. 
and Port Norfolk, Va., r. and Ports- 
mouth, Va., r. with U. S. Navy 
Works, and 

m, Norfolk, Va., 1., a good point for tak- 
ing on stores and making repairs. 



336 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

There is a Yacht Club, good dock- 
ing, and every facility for supplies, 
etc. 
Frorfi Norfolk, Va., to Beaufort, N. C, there 
are two ways. The one recommended is by way 
of the Dismal Swamp Canal and other waterways 
to and through Neuse river, and thence to Beau- 
fort, 208 miles. The other is by way of the Al- 
bemarle & Chesapeake Canal and other water- 
ways to and through Core Sound, and thence to 
Beaufort, 205 miles. These ways join at a point 
off Croatan Light, at the entrance to Croatan 
Sound, and separate at a point off Royal Shoals 
Light in Pamlico Sound. The course recom- 
mended has deeper water, from here on, and the 
shoals of Core Sound are avoided. The way is 
also more interesting. Ther€ is no need for local 
pilots, and the charts should be followed in the 
open waterways. The channels are buoyed and 
marked, and good anchorages and harbors are 
easily found. Elizabeth City, N. C, is the only 
point en route where supplies can be had. 

Route I. 

From Norfolk to Beaufort, N. C, by way of the 
Dismal Swamp (Lake Drummond) Canal, vari- 
ous other natural waterways, Neuse river, and 
Core Creek Canal. 
No Chart 

From Norfolk the course is south 
to the south branch of the Elizabeth 
river. This is entered between Ports- 
mouth r. and Berkely 1. The way isl 
past the U. S. Navy Yard r., and at I 
41 1 J m. The drawbridge of the Norfolk Belt- 



NEW YORK TO CHARLESTON, S. C 337 

Line crosses the river. Within a 
mile the drawbridge of the Tide- 
water R. R. is passed. At 

414 m. Is the hamlet of Gilmerton 1. The 

way is through the interesting 

415 m. Drawbridge of the Norfolk & Western 

R. R. 

416 m. Is a point opposite the mouth of Deep 

Creek. (Here boats intending to go 
to Beaufort by Route II continue 
their course in the river.) There is 
a large sign marking the way to the 
Dismal Swamp (Lake Drummond) 
Canal, the course to which lies 
through Deep Creek. The way is 
followed in the creek to 
419 m. The hamlet of Deep Creek and the 
first lock of the Canal. 
The Dismal Swamp (Lake Drummond) Canal 
extends from a point in Deep Creek, Va., to South 
Mills, N. C. It passes through the Dismal 
Swamp, a most interesting region whose mystic 
fastnesses have inspired poets and been the set- 
ting of many legends and stories. The original 
canal helped to make history during the Civil 
War, and the Swamp was the scene of many con- 
tests and stirring incidents. The Canal is about 
40 miles long, with varying widths extending to 
30 ft. It is well forested by cypress, cedar, gum, 
juniper and water-oaks. Lake Drummond, which 
lies near its center and which can be reached also 
by a canal from Suffolk, Va., makes a most weird 
picture. The tall cypress trees, with their knees 
surrounding them, stand in the water circling 
the shores, interspersed with other forest trees. 



338 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

The laurel and mistletoe, the ferns and dense un- 
dergrowth, the dark juniper water, the sense of 
isolation, all make a new experience for the vis- 
itor. The shores of the Canal and the banks of 
the succeeding Pasquotunk river have the same 
general vegetation. The juniper water is claimed 
to possess sovereign virtues in rural diseases, and 
is wholesome to drink. Many boatmen fill every 
water tank at this stage of the journey. 

The length of the Canal is 22 miles. The locks 
are 250 ft. long, 12 ft. deep and 39 ft. wide. There 
are two locks, one at the north entrance of the 
Canal at Deep Creek, Va., and one at the south 
entrance at South Mills, N. C. 

Beam of boats allowed, up to 35 ft.; draft of 
boats allowed, up to 8 ft. There are three open 
drawbridges — one, one-half tnile south of Deep 
Creek; one, one-half mile north of South. Mills 
and one, one and a half miles south of South Mills 
in Turner's Cut. The speed allowed is not to 
exceed 5 miles per hour. 

Toll Rates — $5.00 for each boat under its own 
power of 20 tons or less; 20 cents per ton for 
larger boats. Boats under tow — under 58 tons, 
25 cents per ton ; over 58 tons and under 100 tons, 
$15.00 per trip, $2.00 minimum charge per trip. 

There is a telephone line along the Canal, with 
apparatus for attaching a telephone every mile. 
Instruments will be loaned to boats on applica- 
tion at the first lock, to be returned at the last 
lock passed. (See General Rules, p. 325.) 

After entering the Canal at the first 
lock at 
419J m. Deep Creek Wharf is passed. There 
are the following points in the 
Canal : 



NEW YORK TO CHARLESTON, S. C. 339 

420 m. A drawbridge crosses the Canal. 

421 m. Duncan's Landing L 
423 m. Herrin Canal 1. 
424J m. Five Mile Landing 1. 
425^ m. West Road Landing 1. 

428 m. Wallaceton 1. 

428^ m. Stewart's Landing 1. 

429 m. Norva Wharf 1. Canal from Lake 

Drummond r. 
429J m. Richmond Cedar Works Wharf n, for 
shipping cedar cut in the swamp. 

430 m. The State line between Virginia and 

North Carolina is crossed. 
Hodge's Landing 1. 
Cross Canal r. 
Lily, N. C. 
Culpepper Landing. 
A drawbridge crosses the Canal. 
South Mills and the south entrance 
lock. The way is now through 
Turner's Cut. 
442J m. A drawbridge crosses. 
Chart No. 407. 

From the Cut the course runs to 
Pasquotunk river, through its juniper 
waters and between picturesque banks. 
456J m. Drawbridge of the Norfolk & South- 
ern R. R. crosses the river. 
459 m. Elizabeth City, N. C, r. is reached, 
where supplies, etc., can be obtained, 
and which is the last town on the 
direct way until Beaufort, N. C, is 
reached — 158 miles. 
The course is now down the widen- 
ing, deep Pasquotunk river and is eas- 
ily followed to 



435 


m. 


435J 


m. 


436 


m. 


437 


m. 


440J 


m. 


441 


m. 



340 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

472 m. A red buoy, which marks the entrance 
to Albemarle Sound (see chart). 
On the right shore opposite this 
buoy is a wharf (2 m.) with seven 
feet of water. 
Chart No. 140. 

476J m. Wades Point Light 1. is passed, Al- 
bemarle Sound is crossed (see 
chart), and from 

478 m. A point on the way to the mouth of 
either the Chowan or the Roanoke 
river 1., it is about 42 miles through 
Albemarle Sound. The way by 
Route II joins here. 

494J m. Croatan Light is passed, and Croatan 
Sound is entered, passing down the 
Sound between Roanoke Island 1. 
and the mainland r. At 

506 m. Roanoke Marshes Light 1. the way 
enters 
Chart No. 142. 

506 m. Pamlico Sound. It skirts along the 
mainland until 

526 m. Long Shoals Light r. is reached, when 
it turns to the right and passes 

545 m. Gull Shoals Light r. At 

557 m. Bluf¥ Shoals Light r. is passed 

562 m. A point at which the course divides — 
the way to Beaufort, N. C, by Core 
Sound being left to the left. This 
point is about two miles off Royal 
Shoals Light 1. 

570 m. Brant Island Shoals Light r. 

Chart No. 144. 
597J m. A buoy 1. off point of Marsh Shoals. 



NEW YORK TO CHARLESTON, S. C. 341 

580J m. A Post Light 1. off point of Marsh 
Shoals 

583J m. Neuse river Light r. is passed and 

591 m. A Post Light 1. on Garbacon Shoals. 

594J m. A Post Light r. marks the entrance 
to Adams Creek. (From here by 
the Neuse river to Newbern, N. C, is 
24 miles.) The course is through 
this creek, which is dredged and 
deepened and buoyed. (See charts.) 
At 

595 m. This dredged channel begins, a buoy 
marking the entrance, and continues 
to 

601 m. Where the Canal Cut begins. This 
Cut has a depth of 10 ft. The way 
is through it to 
Chart No. 420. 

607 m. Core Creek. Here the way is through 
the dredged and buoyed channel of 
the creek to 

609 m. Newport river. The way follows the 
turn of the river through a dredged 
and buoyed channel, past Newport 
Marshes 1. and through 

613J m. The drawbridge of the Norfolk & 
Southern R. R., past a buoy r. to 

614 m. A dividing point in the way (where 
the course to Morehead City [i m.] 
and Bogue Sound and Inlet turns to 
the right.) The way follows on 
around Shark Shoal 1., past a buoy 
1., and turns to left up the channel 
around Town Marsh to the right to 

617 m. Beaufort Dock. The way from the 



342 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 



main channel to the dock has but 7 
ft. of water. 



Route II 



From Norfolk, Va., to Beaufort, N. C, by way 
of Chesapeake Bay and Albemarle Canal and 
various other waterways, and Core Sound. _ 

No Chart I 

409 m. From Norfolk the way is the same as 

by Route I to 

416 m. A point in the south branch of the 

Elizabeth river, opposite Deep 

Creek, as in Route I. Passing here 

the course is up the river to 

421 m. The entrance of the Albemarle & 

Chesapeake Canal is reached. 

This Canal connects the' south branch of the 

Elizabeth river with North Landing river. Its 

length is 8 miles. There is one lock at Great 

Bridge — a tide-water lock which enables the 

Canal to be used as an open waterway four times 

in every twenty-four hours. As there is no lunar 

tide at the Albemarle Sound end, or in the 

Canal, four times a day the water in the Canal and 

in Elizabeth river are at the same level, and 

boats can then go through without locking. The 

lock is 220 ft. long and 40 ft. wide. There are 

four open drawbridges — three on Virginia Cut 

and one on North Carolina Cut — the draws 40 

ft. wide. 

Toll Rates : 20 cents per gross ton on boats of 
20 tons or less; 10 cents per foot over all. See 
General Rules, p. 325. 
No Chart. 



NEW YORK TO CHARLESTON, S. C. 343 

421J m. Great Bridge Village is reached. 

4234 m. The Norfolk & Southern R. R. draw- 
bridge crosses the Canal. 

424J m. The drawbridge of the Centerville 
turnpike crosses the Canal. 

425 m. Old's Point 1. 

427J m. Pleasant Landing 1. 

429J m. The outlet lock of the Canal, and the 
causeway bridge across it are 
passed, and the North Landing river 
is entered. 

430 m. North Landing 1. is passed, and at 

433 m. West Neck Creek 1. 

433J m. A small creek r. 

4394 T^' Fung's Ferry, N. C, 1. 

441^ m. The mouth of Blackwater river is 
passed, and the river begins to 
widen. At 
Charts Nos. 137 and 406. 

442 m. A beacon shows the shoals and from 
here there is a well-marked course 
through the river and on. 

443i ni. Munden, N. C, 1. is passed, the ter- 
minus of the Currituck branch of the 
Norfolk, Virginia Beach & South- 
ern R. R. A little below Green- 
point r. with a light and beacon, is 

445 m. The State line between Virginia and 
North Carolina. At 

446J m. The course lies between Faraby Is- 
land, light and beacon, 1., and the 
shore 1., and continues down North 
river to 

450J m. Where there is a beacon light L It 
then turns and the open water of 



344 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Currituck Sound is on the left, until 
after passing 
453^ m. A beacon and light off the shoal at 
Bell Point r., and Bell's Island, 
Cedar Bay is entered. At 

456 m. A beacon in the Bay is passed r,, and 

at 

457 m. A cut, marked by beacon and light, is 

entered. It passes for a third of a 
mile through land, then the way is 
in a dredged channel through the 
shallow lower end of Coinjock's 
Bay, to 
459J m. A Cut. This is entered, and at 

460 m. In this Cut is a light 1., and at 

461 m. A drawbridge is passed. 

463J m. A beacon and light are passed, and 
the course is now through the North 
river. 
Chart No. 140. 
469 m. A beacon and light mark the course 

through the widening river. At 
475J m. There is a buoy r. marking the en- 
trance to a dredged channel 2 m. 
477J m. North river light, r., and the entrance 
to Albemarle Sound. From here 
the course is laid to 
493J m. Croatan Light, marking the entrance 
to Croatan Sound. 
Here Route I is joined. Route I 
is a mile and a half the longer. From 
here the way of the two routes is the 
same for 67J miles, to a point two 
miles off 
Chart No. 143. 







P5 




-13 
u 
O 

'u 
O 

E 



NEW YORK TO CHARLESTON, S. C 345 

561 m. Royal Shoals Light. Here Route II 
diverges to the left, and the course 
is in Pamlico Sound past 

569 m. Brant Island Shoals Light r., and on to 

573 m. Harbor Island Shoals Light 1. at the 
entrance to Core Sound. 
Chart No. 421. 

579 m. Cedar Island r. is passed, and the 
mouth of Thoroughfare Bay r. 

583 m. Along the south shore of this bay are 
good hunting grounds and shooting 
preserves, extending to Drum Point 
and Nelson's Bay. 

591 m. Piney Point r. 

593 m. Davis shore, and extending to landing, 
4 miles. 

599 m. Jarrell's Bay r. is passed, and 

602 m. Core's Straits are entered. 

602J m. Sleepy Creek r. and Barker's Island 
1. are passed. Next are 

607 m. The North river r., and the south end 

of Barker's Island 1. on each side of 
the way. At 

608 m. Middle marshes 1. are left and 
614 m. Beaufort Dock, N. C, is reached. 

From Beaufort, N. C, to Charleston, S. C, is 
the only part of the v^ay which must be taken 
outside and there are three ways to go. 
Route I 
By a compass course from ofiF the buoy at the 
entrance to Beaufort Harbor, past Cape Fear and 
Cape Romain to Charleston Light and Charles- 
ton, S. C. The distances are: 

Charts Nos. 147, 148, 149, 150, 151, 152, 153, 154. 
614 m. Dividing point to 



6i8 


m. 


715 


m. 


811 


m. 


849 


m. 


859 


m. 



346 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Buoy at mouth of inlet (4 m.). 
Cape Fear (97 m.) to 
Cape Romain (96 m.) to 
Charleston Lightship (38 m.) to 
Charleston, S. C. (10 m.). 

Route II 

From Beaufort, N. C, by way of Bogue Sound 
and then as in Route I, to Charleston, S. C. By 
taking this way the course is from the dividing 
point, through Bogue Sound. The way is very 
shoal and a pilot may be taken. The saving of 
25 miles in outside work is hardly compensated 
for by the fact that there is no communication 
at Bogue Inlet with the Government Weather 
Bureau, and the state of the sea outside and the 
weather forecast cannot be obtained. The chart 
must be consulted for the way through the sound, 
and the other ways are recommended. From 
Charts Nos. 147 to 154. 
614 m. The dividing point, to 
639 m. Bogue Inlet (25 m.), to 
713 m. Cape Fear (74 m.), to 
809 m. Cape Romain (96 m.), to 
847 m. Charleston Lightship (38 m.), to 
857 m. Charleston, S. C, (10 m.). 

Route III 

From Beaufort, N. C, to Charleston, S. C, 
going by the way of Bogue Inlet and coasting the 
shore so as to be in touch with harbors, makes 
the way about ten miles longer. After leaving 
Bogue Inlet there is a harbor at New River In- 
let, 15 miles, and also at New Topsail Inlet, 22 
miles further on, then at Cape Fear, where the 



CHARLESTON, S. C TO JACKSONVILLE, FLA. 347 

way In behind the Cape leads to Southport and up 
the Wilmington river (see chart). On leaving 
Cape Fear there is a harbor at River Inlet and 
also in Winyau Bay. The little trip to George- 
town is made worth while by the interesting old 
seaport (see chart). After passing Cape Romain 
there is a harbor at Bull's Bay, 10 miles. The 
way is then on to the Charleston lightship. 

The course then turns in to the harbor, past 
the Isle of Palms and the historic forts, across 
to the city where an anchorage is found off the 
Charleston Yacht Club. There is good dockage, 
on application, at the Custom House docks. Fa- 
cilities of all kinds are here, and the city is in- 
teresting (see local guides, etc.). 

From here the way is all inside to Fernandina, 
Fla., where there is a choice of routes. 



Charleston, S. C, to Jacksonville, Fla. 

Chart No. 154. 
859 m. From Charleston Yacht Club the 

course is around Battery Park and 

up the Ashley river until the mouth 

of 
862 m. Wappoo Creek 1. is reached. The 

creek is entered, and at 
864J m. New Cut is passed through, and the 

course is followed through the creek 

to 
865^ m. Where Stono river is entered. At 
872J m. Rantowle's Creek r. is passed, and 

the way lies through Church Flats, 

through 
879 m. New Cut to 



348 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

880 m. Wadmelow river, a wide spreading 
stream with a winding course. 
From there 

889 m. North Edisto river is entered, and the 

way lies through this towards the 
sea until 

890 m. The Daho river r. is entered at White 

Point. This stream is very narrow 

and tortuous. 
899 m. North Creek r. is passed. The course 

continues to wind. At 
903 m. The tides from the North and South 

Edisto rivers meet. 
904J m. The South Edisto river is entered and 

the way is down the river 1. 
905 m. An island r. is passed; below this the 

course crosses the river and keeps 

along the right shore, passing 
909J m. A small creek r., and also at 
912 m. Wall's Cut 1. Here the way is more 

direct, and the river widens. 
916 m. An island r. is passed. At 
91 7J m. There is a sharp turn left, and the way 

is down the broad river to 
924 m. Bay Point 1. From here St. Helena 

Sound is entered — a buoyed course 

(see chart). The way turns right, 

up the Sound and passes between 

Morgan's Island 1. and Hutchinson 

Island r., to 
941 m. Where the Coosaw river is entered 1. 

There is a wide buoyed channel (see 

chart). 
Chart No. 155. 
948 m. Brickyard Creek 1. is entered. It is 



CHARLESTON, S. C. TO JACKSONVILLE, FLA. 349 

winding and narrow. Leaving it 
the way is down 
951J m. The Beaufort river 1., the channel 
buoyed (see chart), and the river 
wide. At 
955 m. The docks of Beaufort, S. C, r. is 
passed, a summer resort and an at- 
tractive town. 
957 m. Old Fort r. 

959 m. Port Royal, S. C, r., the point where 
the first settlers landed in 1669. At 
961J m. U. S. Naval Station r. on Paris Island 
962-J m. Quarantine. At 

967 m. Is the entrance to Port Royal Sound 
from St. Philip's Island, to Hilton 
Head Island. The way crosses the 
Sound r. and turns right, up the 
buoyed channel to the mouth of 
973 m. Skull Creek. It traverses this creek 

to 
977J m. Mackay's Creek, enters this, and 

passes May river r., and is then in 
979 m. Calibogue Sound. The course is 

down the Sound. At 
983 m. Cooper river r. 

There is a way to the Savannah river. It is 
longer but is entirely inland, and by taking it 
Tybee Roads can be avoided. It is as follows: 
The course is up Cooper river to Ram's-horn 
Creek (5 m.), thence a very crooked way in the 
creek to where New river is entered (9J m.). 
The way turns sharply to the right through a 
half-mile narrow way into Wright's river (9J 
m.). It then goes up stream to Mud river (loj 
m.) r., which it enters and follows to the jettied 



350 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

channel of the Savannah river (i2| m.) ; thence 
to Savannah, Ga., (21J m.) through deep chan- 
nel (see charts). Returning to continue the 
course south at a point four miles from Savannah 
the South channel of the Savannah river 
is entered (25^ m.). The course enters this chan- 
nel and leaves it at 27 m. to enter a creek r. At 
19J m. the drawbridge of the Savannah & Ty- 
bee R. R. is passed, then Causton Bluff r., and by 
a course in the Wilmington river. Thunderbolt 
P. O., Ga. (33J m.) and the Savannah Yacht 
Club is reached. Trolley four miles past Yacht 
Club Grounds to Savannah. Small stores for 
commissary supplies in village; w^ater, etc., at 
Yacht Club. 

The way from here is in the Wilmington river 
to Romerly Marsh Creek (43 J m.) where the main 
way is joined. 

Note. From Cooper river the yachtsman can 
go to Tybee Roads by the main way, and then 
up the river to the entrance of the South Chan- 
nel to the creek as above, which leads to the way 
by the Wilmington river and Thunderbolt, Ga. 
— which is practically Savannah, Ga. If no 
stores are needed, and Savannah is not to be vis- 
ited, the main way by which the through mileage 
is carried is as follows : 

Cooper river is left on the r. and the 
way continues down Calibogue Sound 
past 
986 m. Braddock's Point 1. and Grenadier 
Shoal r. to Tybee Roads, across Ty- 
bee Roads (see chart) to 
991J m. The mouth of the jettied channel of 
the Savannah river. Leaving this 



'^'■1 






SOUTH CAROLINA 



'%.. 




Inland Wateray::^- Charleston, S. l^-. to Key West, 



t 



CHARLESTON, S. C TO JACKSONVILLE, FLA. 351 

channel to the r., and the point with 
the Hght and beacon to the 1., the 
course is up the river to 
994 m. Layarello Creek, a narrow winding 

way in which the course lies, to 
999J m. When it enters Tybee river. It is 
then down the river into 

I002- m. Wassaw Sound. Going down the 
Sound 

1003 m. Petit Chou Point is passed 1. and the 
way is out around the buoy (see 
chart), across the Sound, and up to 
the mouth of 

1009 m. Romerly Marsh Creek (the other way 
joins the main course here). It fol- 
lows the windings of this creek into 

1013J m. Adams Creek, and through this into 

1017J m. Vernon river; this is crossed to 
Chart No. 156. 

1019 m. Hellgate, a narrow way between 
Little Don Island r. and Raccoon 
Key 1. from Vernon river to Ogee- 
chee river. Thence up the Ogee- 
chee river, along the right shore, 
crossing to mouth of 

1024 m. Florida Passage 1. Entering here, 
the way is through its length to 

1027 m. Bear river r. Entering the river, 
which makes a wide loop in its 
course 

1032 m. Kilkenny Creek r. is passed. The way 
is then down the widening river to 

1034 m. St. Catherine's Sound. The point of 
Ossabaw Island is left to the left, 
and the buoys are rounded (see 



352 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

chart), the Sound is crossed, and, 
turning up the other side 

1040 m. North Newport river is entered, and 
then 

1043 ^- Johnson's Creek 1. The course is 
through this narrow creek to 

1048 m. South Newport river, down the river 
to 

105 1 m. Sapelo Sound. The sound is crossed 
by the buoyed course. The Nation- 
al Quarantine Station on the 
point 1. is passed. 

1053J m. Mud river 1., a wide waterway is en- 
tered. The way is through this to 

1059 ^- New Tea Kettle Creek 1. Through 
this, a narrow gradually widening 
stream, which is joined by Old Tea 
Kettle Creek r., the course . is fol- 
lowed into 

1064 m. Doboy Sound. It crosses the sound 
Chart No. 157. 

1065J m. And enters a narrow waterway. 
Leaving Doboy Island on the left, 
the way is through 

1069 m. Little Mud river to 

1071J m. Altamaha Sound. It crosses this 
Sound by buoyed channel (see 
chart to the left shore, skirting St. 
Simon's Island, 1., to Buttermilk 
Sound. It is thence up the Sound to 

1082 m. Frederica river. It goes by way of 
this narrow winding stream to 

1092 m. St. Simon's Sound. It crosses the 
Sound by the buoyed course (see 
chart) to 






CHARLESTON, S. C TO JACKSONVILLE, FLA. 353 

1095 m. The Brunswick river, Jekyl Island L 
(Brunswick, Georgia, seven miles 
up the Brunswick, is a town of im- 
portance and interest). The way- 
enters 

1097 m. The dredged channel (see chart) to 

1098 m. Jekyl Creek. The way is through 

this creek, Jekyl Island 1., on to 

1 102 m. Jekyl Sound (Jekyl Island is especi- 
ally interesting. There is a club 
here, whose members have luxurious 
winter cottages built upon the is- 
land, surrounded by beautiful parks 
and preserves.) The way is down 
the Sound to St. Andrew's Sound, 
across the Sound by buoyed course 
(see chart) to 

1 107 m. Little Cumberland Island Light on 
point 1. The way is through the 
Sound to 

1 109 m. Cutnberland river, through the river 
to 

1 120 m. Cumberland Sound, thence down the 
broad main channel of the Sound, 
skirting Cumberland Island (with 
its game preserves, historic estate, 
Dungeness, at the lower end) to 
the 

1129I m. South point of Cumberland Island, 
Chart No. 158. 

1 130 m. Across the Sound, rounding the buoy 
marking the way to 

1 132 m. Fernandina, Fla. (see p. 104). 

At this first port in Florida, it is well to get 

local information as to the weather conditions. 



354 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

and particularly as to the time of the beginning 
of the flood tide at St. John's bar. It is advis- 
able to go in with the full swing. From Fer- 
nandina, there are two ways to Jacksonville. The 
first is the one by which the mileage from New 
York is carried, and is as follows : 
1 130 m. Marks the bell buoy in Cumberland 
Sound at the mouth of the Amelia 
river, from which the course is sea- 
ward by the jetties, through a 
buoyed channel (see chart) and St. 
Mary's Entrance to the Atlantic 
ocean. The way is past 
1 1 50 m. Nassau Sound r. to 

Chart No. 577. 
1157 m. St. John's river jetties. Here the way 
is around the r^d buoy, in through 
this deep, well-marked channel to 
the St. John's river. The wisdom 
of going in on the flood tide is 
emphasized — a slow-moving power- 
boat cannot make headway against 
the ebb and may even have to 
anchor ofif and wait. 
1 161 m. Quarantine Station 1. 
1 161 J m. Mayport, Fla., 1. (see p. 106) and 
Pilottown 1., where pilots for the 
St. John's bar can be engaged, Fort 
George Island r. 
1 163 m. The entrance to Pablo Creek 1., 
through which the Inland Waterway 
southward extends. 
1163J m. Great Marsh Island 1. Good duck 
shooting in early months. The 
deep ship channel continues on up 
the St. John's river to 



JACKSONVILLE TO MIAMI 355 

1 185 m. Jacksonville, Fla., (see p. 99). 

The second way from Fernandina is, for boats 
of this class (four feet draft), by way of Amelia 
river, Kingsley Creek, South Amelia river, down 
and across Nassau Sound, by Sawpit Cut and 
Sister Creek, enterjng the St. John's river at 
Great Marsh Island (1148J m.) and joining the 
main course to Jacksonville. This way is good, 
except in a few places, where bars cut sharply 
across the channel. The advice about entering 
shoal places .at low tide should be particularly 
followed on this run, and the chart should be 
carefully consulted. The Government is start- 
ing to dredge this way to a uniform depth of six 
feet. Information as to the progress of this work 
can be obtained at Fernandina. 



Jacksonville to Miami 

At Jacksonville supplies of every kind, both 
nautical and commissary, can be obtained. 
Drew's Stationery Shop is the depot for hydro- 
graphic charts. There are large boatyards with 
dockage and good anchorage opposite the city to 
the left, in the river. There are two yacht clubs. 
It is the custom for boats to go to Jacksonville 
to outfit before going on. 

The mileage for Florida waters starts at Jack- 
sonville. From here on the draft of boats that 
can make the inland passage is at the most four 
and one-half feet — three feet is preferable. The 
usual draft is three and a half, and four feet. 
The way is much more prohibited than before, 
and the whole environment changes. The bays, 
sounds, lagoons and so-called rivers and lakes 
— all salt water — are inside, the whole way be- 



3S6 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

ing sheltered behind the bordering keys of the 
East Coast, where it is not carried by cuts and 
canals through the mainland. These canals are 
all tide-water, without locks and most primitively 
constructed. In some the banks are submerged, 
and in others they are just visible above the 
water. In some places the debris has been piled 
on the banks, and they are overgrown with lux- 
uriant vegetation. The canals have been exca- 
vated by the Florida East Coast Construction 
and Canal Co., in connection with the United 
States Government. 

Tolls — Because of the continuous system of 
canals on this route being just newly opened, it 
is impossible to get the toll rates, or the points at 
which tolls are collected. Heretofore there has 
been but one toll chain, in -New River Sound, 
where the canal turns southwest below Lauder- 
dale, on the way to Miami, but the Canal Co. is 
about to put in six additional chains, whose lo- 
cations have not been definitely decided upon. 
Information in regard to tolls, location of 
chains, etc., can be obtained from the F. E. C. 
Canal & Transportation Co., St. Augustine, 
Fla. 

It may be interesting to know that the F. E. C. 
Canal & Construction Co. issued its first pros- 
pectus July 19, 1882, signed by Jay Cooke and 
J. K. Upton, and its franchise called for a grant 
of 3840 acres of land for every mile of way con- 
structed or improved. 

There seem to be no restrictions or rules as 
to the size of boats. Any boat that can dig or 
make its way through does so, at any rate of 
speed possible. 



JACKSONVILLE TO MIAMI 357 

A line of steamers has been organized for 
service between Jacksonville and Miami. The 
boats are stern-wheel steamboats, about no feet 
in length, and there will be four of them. Fur- 
ther information regarding this line can be ob- 
tained at Jacksonville. The Indian river line 
of steamboats, operated by McCoy Bros., runs be- 
tween St. Augustine and Palm Beach. An in- 
dependent line makes this same trip with a larger 
boat, the " Swan." 

Leaving Jacksonville, the way is re- 
traced down the main ship canal to 
Chart No. 158. 
22 m. The mouth of Pablo Creek. It then 
runs through the marshes of Pablo 
Creek, which waterway it utilizes 
to a small extent. The draw of the 
F. E. C. R. R. is passed, and at 
32 m. The line of the Canal leaves the creek 
and enters a cut 75 ft. wide, 6 ft. 
deep and loj miles long. At 
42J m. North river is entered. The course is 
in the channel of this river, which 
is narrow until the mouth of 
Chart No. 159. 
50J m. Guano river is passed, where it widens. 

At 
54J m. There is a shoal 1., and at 
55 m. There is another shoal r. At 
58 m. There is a turn r. and the way is down 

the broader river to 
59J m. St. Augustine (see p 109), past the town 
to the drawbridge of the South 
Beach Electric Railroad. The city 
r. is very interesting. Supplies of 



358 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

all kinds can be bought here, and 
the anchorages are good. Visiting 
yachtsmen will find the boat clubs 
hospitable. Before the completion 
of the canal from the St. John's 
river to St. Augustine, boats left 
the St. John's and made the little 
cruise to the St. Augustine bar out- 
side. This is done easily in good 
weather, the entrance being well 
marked (see chart). 

Passing St. Augustine, Anastasia 
Island is to the left (see p 124). The 
way lies through Matanzas river, 
in which the channel is good, past 

61J m. San Sebastian river-r. and 

64J m. Moultrie's Creek r. to 

70 m. Where there is a submerged shoal, 
through which a short cut has been 
made, opposite Moses Creek r. At 

75 m. Is an old Spanish fort, which guarded 
this inlet in early times. At 

75J m. Matanzas Inlet opens. Much dredg- 
ing has been done here. The 
waterway is at first at deepening of 
the natural waters of the South 
Matanzas river, then a dredged 
way, beginning at 

79 m. Opposite Pellicier's Creek r., and con- 
tinuing to 

82 m. Where the canal begins. The way is 
now a solid cut extending through 
woods, a rock divide and marsh, 
passing first through Bike's Prairie, 
then a 




c 
o 

c 

O 



O 




City Gates 



JACKSONVILLE TO MIAMI 359 

91 m. Lake to the left; through Graham's 

swamp, and entering the cut and 

dredged waterway of 

95 m. Smith's Creek, and later Halifax Creek. 

96J m. The House of Refuge r. is on the 

ocean beach. 

100 m. Tiger Hammock is passed. 

loi m. Halifax river is entered, the dredged 
way extending to 

loij m. The end of the canal. The natural 
channel of the Halifax river here 
has been deepened in its approach 
to the canal. At 

102 m. The mouth of the Tomoka river 
(p. 130), an interesting and feasible 
waterway for small boats and 
launches of not over three feet 
draft. 
Chart No. 160. 

The naturally shoal water of the Hali- 
fax has been dredged and marked, 
but it is difficult to protect the bea- 
cons and stakes, so the way must be 
carefully chosen. The Halifax River 
Yacht Club at Daytona has done 
much in marking the way and in 
keeping the stakes, etc., in situ from 
here to Gilbert's Bar, Indian river. 
The course lies down the Halifax to 

107J m. Ormond (see p. 128) at the drawbridge 
from the town r. on the mainland to 
the Ormond Hotel, other hotels and 
cottage colonies on the peninsula 1., 
both on the river and the ocean. 
The way is still down the river to 



36o A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

112 m. A drawbridge just north of Daytona. 

At 
I12J m. Is the draw of the bridge at the north 
end of the town. At 

113 m. A ferry crosses the river r., and there 

is a channel through a dredged way 
to the town shore r. Its landing 1. 
is at the end of this bridge 1. At 

113I m. South bridge from Daytona to the pen- 
insula is passed. The channel is 
toward the left shore, but there is 
a dredged way in to the city dock, 
and to the Halifax River Yacht Club 
dock and anchorage r. At Daytona 
supplies of all kinds can be pro- 
cured, and such ^boating hardware, 
etc., as is found in shops. Exten- 
sive boat repairs cannot be made 
expeditiously here, but there are 
ways and yards for small boats. 
The way lies down the channel near 
the left shore to 

118J m. Port Orange r. (see p. 142). There is 
no channel in to the little town, 
but small boats go in north of the 
drawbridge that crosses from Port 
Orange to the peninsula. The 
course is down the river past the 
ridge of the peninsula 1. and 
marshy islands and a pine and 
palmetto-clad shore r. There is a 
settlement at 

124 m. Ponce Park 1. — railroad station New 
Smyrna — a resort for fishermen. 
Opposite is the entrance to Spruce 



JACKSONVILLE TO MIAMI 361 

Creek where is found the fishing 
which attracts fishermen to Ponce 
Park. The way up this creek is 
only for very shoal-draft launches. 
The bridge of the F. E. C. R. R. 
crosses this waterway. 
m. Pacetti's, a well-known fishing place, 
is at the end of the peninsula next 
to the Mosquito Lighthouse reser- 
vation. The original settler was a 
Minorcan, and his son, B. Y. Pacetti, 
is an authority on the fishing condi- 
tion of the inlet, and on the intri- 
cate waterways from here to the 
" Haulover." 
m. Mosquito Inlet was much used be- 
fore the opening of the canal to the 
north, and with a pilot is safe for 
boats of the class for which this 
itinerary was written. The course 
is across the Inlet — Turnbull Bay 
r. The tide that is met is the re- 
verse flood or ebb of that just left 
in the Halifax river. It comes from 
the 

Hillsboro river, through which the way 
now lies. At 

The drawbridge from the mainland to 
the peninsula and Coronado Beach 
(see p. 148) crosses the river. From 
here the course is to 

New Smyrna r. (see p. 143). The town 
lies back of sea marshes, through 
which are cut channels to the river. 
There is only a limited choice of 



362 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

supplies here, and none can be 
bought until Titusville is reached. 
New Smyrna is a fishing center. 
Opposite, on the peninsula, are sev- 
eral aboriginal burial mounds, in one 
of which a copper disc was found. 
This would seem to prove that men 
from the far north also came to en- 
joy the shell-fish. 

Through Hillsboro river the chan- 
nel is tortuous, and while it has 
been many times well marked, it is 
almost impossible to protect the 
stakes, beacons, etc. There are bars 
and shoals and cul-de-sac creeks. 
A pilot or sailing-master who knows 
the way will facilitate progress. 
The way lies among and between 
islands of mangroves and marshy 
stretches, with the ridge of the pen- 
insula 1., and the settled country of 
the mainland r. There is a part of 
the course — " Head-wind Stretch " 
• (i m.) — which, in the old days of 
sail boats, was a marked place. 
The way turns and winds to the left 
and comes to a channel along the 
peninsula side. 

140J m. A beacon marks the course. 

141J m. Turtle Mound 1. is one of the largest 
midden mounds of the prehistoric 
Indians in Florida. It is 60 feet high 
and 300 feet long. Its isolated 
position accents its height. The 
slope, seen on approaching, is worn 



JACKSONVILLE TO MIAMI 363 

away by the weather, and in the 
varying lines of the layers of shells 
which were piled upon it, from year 
to year, by the feasting people of 
those far-away times, the student 
may trace just what were the con- 
ditions existing in the surrounding 
waters. Bi- and uni-valves that 
were habitants of salt, brackish, and 
almost fresh water, form ribbon lay- 
ers, which tell that there were 
periods when the waters of the sea 
were shut out more than now ; when 
they had encroached more, and when 
they were again kept back. There 
is a view from the top of the mound 
worth the short climb by the way 
through the stunted forest and 
growth, which covers all its side 
but the weather-worn one seen on 
approaching. The curious visitor, 
by loosening the shells here, is re- 
warded by shards and an occasional 
bone implement. The burial mound 
lies in a thicket of Spanish bayonet, 
which can only be penetrated by the 
use of the machete and brush-hook. 
It has been visited only by the 
writer, and the burials were found 
to have been made in a concentric 
line, the skeletons lying extended. 
Brain coral of great symmetry and 
beauty was deposited in the graves. 
The way is overgrown and the dead 
still lie undisturbed. At 



364 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

142^ m. Eldora was the home of an old settler. 

I43i m. Castle Windy was also a habitation in 
early days. 

145J m. The dredged canal opposite Oak Hill 
(see p. 152) on the mainland which 
connects the Hillsboro river with 
Mosquito Lagoon, is entered. 

145} m. Beacon r. marking this way. The 
channel is now through the natural 
waters of Mosquito Lagoon, a body 
of water dear to the sportsman, ex- 
tending to the south, where there 
are game preserves and orange 
groves. On the left is the penin- 
sula covered with the usual scrub 
palmetto growtJ.i and occasional 
wind-swept and dwarfed trees. 
Opposite, is a 

147J m. House of Refuge 1. on the beach. To 
the right are the pine and oak woods 
and palmetto hammocks of the 
mainland, with the homes of winter 
visitors and residents. 
Chart No. 161. 

1535 m. A beacon marks the course. 

154J m. Another beacon, and at 

1552 "^- Ts the entrance to the Cut called " The 
Haulover," which is through a nar- 
row strip of land, with coquina rocks 
underlying, which separates Mos- 
quito Lagoon from Indian river. 
The name came from the old days, 
when it was the custom to haul 
small boats across the land from 
one body of water to the other. 



JACKSONVILLE TO MIAMI 365 

There are fishermen's shacks and 
net-racks along the banks, and at 
the west and r. was an old plantation 
and orange grove. Mosquito La- 
goon, stretching away to the south, 
is a famous duck shooting ground. 
The Indian River Club has pre- 
serve privileges there. The way 
lies through the cut in the rocky 
divide J m., and then straight on out 
to 

1565 m. The beacon 1., which marks the end 
of the dredged way into the Indian 
river. From 4iere the way is to a 

160 m. Beacon 1. opposite Black Point 1. 
This is rounded and the course leads 
past 

165J m. Sandy Point r. Just opposite here is 
Banana Creek, which defines the up- 
per end of Merritt's Island, and 
which is navigable for a small boat 
or a dory launch of light draft. 
There is a way through it to the 
Banana river (p. 366). Merritt's Is- 
land (p. 154) extends along 1. to op- 
posite Eau Gallic (1783 m.), with 
good channel to the dock. At 

166 m. Titusville r. (see p. 152) is a town 
where supplies for both craft and 
commissary can be obtained. There 
is a boat yard, with ways, here and 
its facilities are the best on Indian 
river. The way down the Indian 
river has been improved for about 
140 miles by dredging, cutting and 



366 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

submerged canaling, and is the 
largest natural link in the Inland 
Waterway. 

171J m. Addison's Point r. 

176J m. Jones' Point r. 

179J m. Sharp's Point r. 

181J m. City Point r. are all passed. Indian- 
ola 1. (see p. 154) is opposite, on 
Merritt's Island. 

182J m. Magnolia Point r. 

184 m. Cocoa r. (see p. 154) is a thriving town, 
with channel to docks and with 
good facilities for supplies, etc. 
Merritt, on Merritt's Island (see 
p. 154), is opposite. 

185J m. Rockledge (see p. 154) is one of the 
most attractive -resort towns, with 
good channel to the docks and facili- 
ties for supplies, etc. 

189 m. Georgiana; Merritt's Island 1. 

192 m. Cape Cod 1., Merritt's Island. 

194 m. Plover Point r. 

194J m. Mangrove Point 1. on Merritt's Island. 

198 m. Horn Creek r. 
Chart No. 162. 

200J m. Eau Gallic r., a town with channel to 
docks, a good anchorage, and with 
a boat yard and facilities for sup- 
plies, etc. The mouth of Banana 
river is just opposite 1. 
The Banana river, which extends between Mer- 
ritt's Island and the ocean shore, is 30 miles 

long. Its greatest width is about five miles. Its 

entrance at the lower end of Merritt's Island is 

narrow and the water is deep. The anchorage 



JACKSONVILLE TO MIAMI z^y 

there is good at all times. There was formerly 
an old plantation on the ocean side, and a good 
trail to the beach still exists, \\ miles. The river 
widens out and its channel is good all the way to 
the preserves of the Cape Canaveral Shooting 
Club, which are located near False Cape Canav- 
eral. There is much game and good fishing. 
Many little channels that are interesting to run 
with a shoal-draft launch, extend to the shores on 
either side. Merritt's Island, with its luxuriant 
groves and gardens, is on the left, and the wild 
land and ocean on the right. A way for small 
boats to the Indian river opposite Titusville is 
through Banana Creek, at the head of Banana 
river. The Chester Shoal House of Refuge is on 
the ocean beach here. 

There is a canal cut across Merritt's 
Island into the Banana river, near 
Rockledge. This way is used to en- 
able yachtsmen to include the Ban- 
ana river in their course, without re- 
tracing their way. Information re- 
garding this cut can be obtained at 
Cocoa or Rockledge. It can be 
plainly seen from the Indian river 
main channel at 
201 i m. Elbow Creek r. is passed. 
203 m. Military Park r. 

204J m. Melbourne r. (see p. 155). Between 
Eau Gallic and Melbourne, to the 
left, there are trails to the ocean 
beach at Huldock's, Olmstead and 
King's. Crane Creek r. is passed and 
205 m. Fisherman's Point 1. There are sev- 
eral trails to the beach 1. and at 



368 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

205J m. Turkey Creek r., 
209J m. Cape Malabar r., and 
210 m. Malabar r. are passed. 
212 m. Rock Point r. is passed. The water is 
all good until at 

216 m. A beacon marks the way across the 

worst shoal in Indian river, at 
Grant's Farm, an island (see p. 156). 
See chart, and follow closely here. 
At 

217 m. The south end of Grant's Farm Island 

is passed, and 
217J m. Micco r. is followed by 
222 m. Sebastian Creek r. — pleasant cruising 
for shoal-draft boats up this stream. 
At 
224 m. Sebastian r. (see p. 156) permits may 
be obtained for inspecting Pelican 
Island. 
Barker's BlufT r., and at 
Duck Point r., with a trail to the rail- 
road, are passed. At 
A beacon marks the way to the Indian 

river narrows. 
The Indian River Narrows are entered. 
The way through these is by a 
good channel, well marked. The 
course winds among islands cov- 
ered with semi-tropical vegeta- 
tion, and with ruins of settle- 
ments which were prosperous 
homes at the time of the " big 
freeze " in 1895. Vegetables and 
fruit were raised in great quantities 
here. The islands have been aban- 



2261 


m. 


228 


m. 


229 


m. 


229J 


m. 




O 

X 



o 

0^ 






O 




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JACKSONVILLE TO MIAMI 369 

doned by settlers, but their natural 
beauty makes lingering worth while. 
A reservation for the conservation 
of pelicans is located on Pelican Is- 
land, which can be reached in a 
shoal boat. A shoal launch with a 
fiat-bottomed rowboat in tow is the 
best fleet for this journey. Permis- 
sion to land and inspect the birds 
can be obtained from the Warden 
at Sebastian. 

Orchid, Gray and Enos mark old 
settlements. 

233J m. Narrows 1., with its picturesque pal- 
metto-thatched buildings and lux- 
uriant hammock grove, is the most 
attractive point in the narrows. 
Chart No. 163. 

The way leaves the narrows and 
is in the open river. 

238 m. Bethel Creek 1. can be entered by small 
boats and a trip can be made to the 
Bethel House of Refuge on the 
beach. The main way passes 

243I m. Crawford's Point r., and reaches 

250J m. St. Lucie r. (see p. 156). Opposite is 
Negro Cut. 1., through which a chan- 
nel was dredged to Indian River In- 
let by Senator Quay. There is also 
a way to the Inlet by 

230 m. The main channel. The waters teem 
with fish and the Inlet is open to 
small fishing boats of very shoal 
draft. Half a mile below the Inlet 
is a House of Refugee on the coast, 



370 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

The waters are shoal outside of 
the channel from here to 
253 J m. Fort Pierce r. (see p. 158). Here a 
good channel runs to the docks, and 
there are facilities for supplies, etc., 
fish and oysters especially. 
263J m. Walton r., with a good trail to the 

beach opposite. 
265J m. Eden r. 
268J m. Jensen r. (see p. 159). 
270 m. Portuguese Joe's 1. is a point where 
yachtsmen have added to their fresh 
vegetable supplies for years. At 
273 m. Gilbert's Bar Yacht Club 1. is on the 
peninsula, and just below is the Gil- 
bert's Bar House of Refuge, on a 
beautiful little "Cove, with good 
water close to shore. The rock 
divide between the river and the 
ocean is here but a few hundred feet 
wide, and the beach is very pic- 
turesque. The way south for two 
and a half miles is along the beach 
to St. Lucie Inlet. The little bay is 
lined with mangroves to the south. 
The course lies between this and 
275 m. Sewall's Point 1. 

This is one of the most beautiful places in Flor- 
ida. Deep water comes to the end of the long 
dock extending into the river from the high, for- 
est-crowned peninsula. Capt. Henry E. Sewall 
has lived her.for many years, and has developed 
the natural beauties of the place. A town — Port 
Sewall — has been started across St. Lucie river 
from the Point. On the Point itself are the 



JACKSONVILLE TO MIAMI 371 

homes of many well-known men, and the Penn- 
sylvania Club has a club house there. The fish- 
ing at the Inlet is famous. The late Ex-Presi- 
dent Cleveland came here for many winters. 

The point is at the end of the land that divides 
the St. Lucie and Indian rivers, which meet here 
and find an outlet to the ocean by Gilbert's Bar 
Inlet. Up the St. Lucie is the way to Stuart 
(see p. 160) and the two forks of the river, both 
very beautiful. The North Fork is navigable 
past White City, which is directly back of Wal- 
ton on the Indian river. The South Fork is very 
tortuous and the way is easily lost. The chan- 
nels are deep and well-marked (see chart). 

From here (275 m.) Manatee Creek is navi- 
gable for two miles to a trail 1. to a store and the 
railroad. 

From here (275 m.) a channel leads to the 
ocean through the inlet two miles. Local in- 
formation should be obtained at Sewall's Point 
as to the present condition of the inlet and the 
inland way immediately south of it. This way 
is through sheltering shoals, and is the worst 
place to be encountered except those points at 
the upper ends of Lake Worth and Biscayne Bay 
on the way farther south. The Government has 
called for bids for cutting a new channel from 
Great Pocket into Peck's Lake, ij m., and for 
deepening the way into Great Pocket, which im- 
provements will do away entirely with the un- 
certain shoals at the upper end of Jupiter Nar- 
rows. 
276 m. The course is directly opposite St. 

Lucie Inlet 1. At 
278 m. North Jupiter Narrows are entered, 



372 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

and the way goes from there to 

279 m. Peck's Lake. 

281 m. Peck's Lake is left and South Jupiter 
Narrows are entered through a cut. 
At 

286 m. Hobe's Sound is entered, also by a cut 
through shoals. This sheet of 
water passes between pineapple 
plantations r. and the left side of 
the sound, where are many beautiful 
winter homes. The luxuriant vege- 
tation and semi-tropical climate 
make this location one of great 
beauty. It was here that Joseph Jef- 
ferson had his winter home for 
years. At 

291 m. Through a narrow- cut at Conch Bar 
the course goes to Jupiter Sound, 
and at 

292J m. There is a cut through Hell Gate, a 
narrow and shallow part of the 
Sound. Ash Pan Shoals are left 1., 
and the course at 

294^ m. Is opposite Jupiter Light r. (If a turn 
is made here to the left the Closed 
Inlet — I m. — may be reached.) 
The way turns around the point r. 
on which the weather and signal 
stations, the lighthouse and the 
wireless telegraph station stand, 
passes these r. and West Jupiter 1., 
and proceeds to 
Chart No. 164. 

2954 ni. The mouth of Lake Worth Creek 1. 
This creek is entered and the way 



JACKSONVILLE TO MIAMI 373 

follows the general course of this 
narrow, tortuous stream, by several 
short canals that have been cut 
through the valley of the creek to 
shorten the route. At 

m. A cut canal, which leads to 

m. Lake Worth (see p. i6o). Here the 
way out is very shoal, and the stakes 
and marks are apt to be misleading. 
Care must be taken and the chart 
followed closely, and if a pioneer 
cruise, preliminary soundings in a 
small boat are advised. 
Munyon's Island 1. is passed and 
Lake Worth Inlet 1. (This may be 
open — get local information.) The 
fixed houseboat light 1. is a tea place. 
The fishing is good about the inlet. 
The course is now down the west 
shore of the lake, past 

m. Riviera r., then it swings toward the 
left and goes through the draw of 
the F. E. C. railroad to 

m. Palm Beach, Royal Poinciana Hotel 
and West Palm Beach r. (see p i6i). 
There is every facility at West Palm 
Beach for boat repairs and replen- 
ishing commissary and wardrobe. 
The waters are well marked. There 
is a channel to the docks on both 
the east and west sides of the lake. 
The social life is all on the east side, 
the business on the west. Informa- 
tion is given yachtsmen at the dock 
of the Royal Poinciana Hotel as to 



374 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

all local matters. Between here and 
Miami there is no point where more 
than the most ordinary commissary 
supplies can be obtained, so it is 
well to refit here for the cruise fur- 
ther south. 

After leaving Palm Beach there 
are villas along the left shore, that 
of Richard Croker being most promi- 
nent. An old wreck lies on the 
ocean beach at his door, the spars of 
which are seen from the course 1. 

322 m. Hypoluxo Island 1., and at 

322f m. Lantana 1., where there is a store and 
oyster market. At 

325J m. The dredged way to^the canal from the 
lower end of Lake Worth south- 
ward begins. At 

326J m. A drawbridge crosses the canal from 
Boynton to the Boynton Hotel. 
Just before this, to the right, 
are fish houses, which pack 
the great catches of mackerel that 
are seined in the ocean off Boynton 
Beach. The way is now through 
the canal. The semi-tropical 
growth is interesting and often very 
beautiful. There is a town at 

332 m. Delray r., and at 

336 m. Yamato r., a Japanese settlement, is in 
the distance. At 

338 m. The way passes through the middle of 
Lake Wyman, a canaled way, and 
out through a very picturesque 
dredged creek to 



JACKSONVILLE TO MIAMI 375 

340 m. Bocaratone Lake. There is a ca- 
naled way across the lake to 

342 m. The Hillsboro river. The way is then 
down this river to the wider waters 
of the sound. The right bank is 
followed past an opening to the 
Chart No. 165. 

346 m. Mouth of a small creek, which it en- 
ters. (The lighthouse across and 
down the sound on the north side of 
the inlet is one-fourth of a mile to 
the left.) The canal follows the 
course of this creek. At 

349 m. It skirts the edge of an expansion of 
the creek into a small lake, and con- 
tinues straight on, entering again 
the canal way. At 

354 m. There is a dredged way across a small 

lake, then a dredged way in a natu- 
ral stream to 

355 m. Another small lake, which is crossed by 

a dredged channel to 

356 m. Middle river. The course is down this 

river to a little sound, passing some 
very large mangroves, then the 
home of Senator Tom Watson, of 
Georgia, 1. and then the 

357 m. Fort Lauderdale House of Refuge I. and 

the inlet, which is not open for boats. 
The way is across the open water 
to the mouth of New River Sound, a 
narrow waterway. (It is sometimes 
possible to cross and enter this 
sound and continue the way south, 
saving a mile in distance and having 



Z7C> A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

deeper water, l)ut the mouth of this 
channel shoals in storms by the 
shifting of the bars, so that most 
boatmen take the Lake Mabel route, 
as below.) 

From the point opposite the 
mouth of this narrow sound, a turn 
is made abruptly to the right, and 
the shore is followed closely. The 
way is up New river to 

358 m. The entrance of a creek. (Half a mile 

from here, up the river, is Fort 
Lauderdale [see p. 174]. The chan- 
nel is deep and straight, and boat 
hardware and some commissary 
supplies can be ^ obtained there.) 
The old toll chain is in this sound. 
On entering the creek the way is to 

359 m. Lake Mabel, through which a circling 

course 1. is taken, following the deep 
water to the cut 1. which leads into 
the narrow sound one-half mile from 
the inlet. The way is now down 
this sound to 

362 m. When the canal is again entered, and at 

369J m. Mud Lake is reached. The way is 
marked across the lake, which is 
very shoal and with deep mud bot- 
tom, to a short canal, and then 
through this to 

370J m. Dumbfoundling Bay. This is also 
crossed by a dredged channel at the 
east side, and at 

371 m. Snake Creek is entered, a winding, 
twisting stream, through marshes 
and past verdant shores to 



JACKSONVILLE TO MIAMI ZT] 

2% m. Biscayne Bay, which is entered at its 
northern end. This is the fourth 
and last badly shoal part of the way. 
It is almost impossible to keep the 
channel marks in place, and experi- 
ence, with local aid, is the best guide, 
basing the general course on the 
chart and the following description : 
The course is down the bay, closer 
to the right shore than to the left, a 
mile and a half to 
Then cross to the bight in the right 
shore just before the mouth of 
m. Arch Cre^k r. is reached. Follow the 
deepest water marked on the chart 
in a straight line from the mouth of 
Arch Creek to the 

379 m. Entrance of the dredged canal. Bird 

Key is one-half mile to the right. 
(From here there is a way northeast 
for small shoal-draft boats, between 
two small islands to Biscayne Bay 
House of Refuge. Through the 
channel of Indian Creek from there, 
running south, at about i\ miles, is 
Crocodile Hole, where these sau- 
rians are found and hunted.) 

From its entrance, the way is 
through the dredged channel for 
one mile to 

380 m. Where the course is laid through the 

deepest water to 
383I The F. E. C. R. R. and P. & O. S. S. Co's. 
docks. From there it is by the 
dredged steamship channel to an 
anchorage r. off 



378 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

384 m. The Biscayne Bay Yacht Club at Mi 
ami (see p. 188). 



Miami to Key West 

Miami has facilities for all sorts of supplies. 
There are boat yards, ways and machine shops 
where repairs of every kind can be made. The 
river is lined with docks, and it affords a good 
harbor when the barometer warns of a coming 
storm which would be severe in the open bay — 
a rare but possible happening in the late winter 
season. Information of all kinds as to cruising 
and fishing can be had. Hydrographic charts 
may be obtained from the Government's selling 
agents, F. T. Budge & Co. 

Cruising southward from Miami is ideal. The 
yachtsman is in closer touch with the waters of 
the open sea. Numerous cuts and channels make 
communication between the sheltered waters and 
Hawk's Channel (the channel between the outer 
submerged reef and the Keys) easy, and each 
year finds more boats in cofnmission " down the 
Keys." In the old days, before the railway was 
built, all these inside waters (those between the 
Keys and the mainland) and those outside were 
used indiscriminately, but the closing of these 
communicating ways below Key Largo, by via- 
ducts, fills and trestles, has virtually separated 
the lower inside way from Hawk's Channel, and 
only small launches can make the transit from one 
to the other. The inside way follows the waters 
between the shore and the Keys, and is the most 
attractive cruising and fishing ground in Florida. 



J 



MIAMI TO KEY WEST 379 

Charts must be followed, and compass courses in 
the lower bay. 

There are but two places where gasolene, water 
and provisions can be surely obtained after leav- 
ing Miami — Cocoanut Grove P. O. (but lim- 
ited gasolene supply) and Marathon P. O. — until 
Key West is reached. The Keys are practically 
waterless, and there are only three other places 
where even sparse amounts of commissary stores 
can be obtained — Planter P. O., Russell's near 
Islamorada P. O. and Long Key P. O. There are 
opportunities for buying fruit and vegetables at 
the various plantations en route. The yachtsman 
should consider the provisioning of his boat thor- 
oughly before starting south from Miami. 

Mail can be received and sent at Jewfish, 
Planter and Islamorada (none of these recom- 
mended) ; at Long Key and Marathon, and at 
Key West post and telegraph facilities are good. 
Knight's Key should not be used as the dock is 
difficult to reach. 

From Bahia Honda to Key West the way is 
outside in Hawk's Channel. 

The anchorage at the Biscayne Bay Yacht Club 
House is between the dredged steamer channel 1. 
and the shore r. From here there is a dredged 
way across the bay to a cut in the lower end of 
the Key opposite, 3 m., and on to deep water in 
the ocean, half a mile farther. This cut has been 
jettied on both sides at the ocean end. To the 
north of this cut, on the ocean beach, there is a 
bathing pavilion. A ferry runs from Miami, 
landing on the bay side of the Key, at the cut's 
entrance. This dredged channel can be left, at 
2j m. from the anchorage, and the way through 



38o A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Norris' Cut to the ocean can be taken, ij m. 
to deep water outside. These cuts are much 
used by boats going to the outer reef for fishing. 
Chart No. i66. 

The main way from Miami is 
through the steamer channel. 
384! m. A dredged channel r. leads back from 
here into the Miami river, half a mile 
to the Royal Palm dock. (See 
charts for the way across from this 
anchorage to the point, for very 
shoal-draft boats.) 
386J m. A buoy r. marks the lower entrance to 
the steamer channel. (There is a 
course 1. to Bear's Cut and the 
ocean. The waters on the ocean 
. side are very shoal, and this way out 
is not recommended. The fishing 
in this vicinity inside is good.) 
From this buoy the way to Cocoanut 
Grove skirts the shoal and is to- 
wards a buoy (see chart.) 
Before reaching this buoy the way 
turns to the right towards Cocoanut 
Grove. There is a high stake one 
mile from the shore — this is kept 500 
feet left, and the course is laid to the 
small boathouses south of the Bis- 
cayne Yacht Club House at Cocoanut 
Grove. Half a mile beyond the stake 
there is good anchorage, with four 
feet of water at low tide and a hold- 
ing bottom. Stakes locally placed 
show the course for small boats to the 
Club House dock. There is a town 





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MIAMI TO KEY WEST 381 

dock, but only rowboats can land 
there. In running this course at night, 
the course is from the buoy within 
the white sector of the Club House 
light, running directly towards it and 
sounding. There is one foot of tide, 
and anchorage must be made with this 
in consideration. There is much to in- 
terest the yachtsman here. The Club 
is the farthest south on the mainland 
of the United States. Regattas, races, 
etc., are frequent during the season. 
The distance from the Miami station 
of this Club to the Club House here is 
6J m. 

The main way is down the Biscayne 
Bay. At 
390 m. (A channel 1. to Old Cape Florida 
Light, now not used, 2J m., con- 
tinues to 3^ m. the steamer channel, 
and thence by it to the ocean.) 
392 m. (The channel used by the P. & O. boats 
to the Bahamas leaves the inside 
way here and extends across barring 
shoals and between buoys, 4^ m. out 
to the ocean.) From the buoy 
where the way turned to Cocoanut 
Grove, the inside way skirts the 
shoals 1. (To the right from El- 
liott's Beach to Cutler on the main- 
land, are good fishing grounds — 
Spanish mackerel, etc. The marine 
growths are very beautiful all 
through Biscayne Bay.) At 
396I m. Is the point in the course where Fowey 



382 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Rocks Light is in a direct line with 
the center of Soldier Key. (By 
turning here directly towards Sol- 
dier Key there is a way there, 2^ m. 
^ This Key was the property of Sen- 
ator Camden, of Virginia, where he 
had a winter cottage. It is now a 
favorite point for " shore dinners,'* 
— 15 m. from Miami.) 
400 m. (A way left to the north of Ragged 
Keys much used by fishermen, 3 m. 
through shoals.) The main way lies 
directly between the shoals L and 
Featherbed Bank r. 
401J m. The course turns right, and passes 
across the shoal of Featherbed Bank 
into the deeper -water of the lower 
bay. 

(Elliott's Key 1. is sparsely settled. 
Groves of cocoanuts can be seen, and 
a landing may be made in a flat-bot- 
tomed boat, and fruits and vegetables 
obtained.) 
411 m. Rubicon Key, J m. 1. From here there 
is a way into Caesar's Creek (see 
chart). Boats frequently anchor 
here, and also at 2J m. in the creek. 
Legends of the times of the buc- 
caneers and of the blockade runners 
are still told to the visitor. The 
place in the coral rock v/here there 
used to be a staple and an iron ring 
for mooring Lafitte's (the pirate) 
boat is shown. At present vege- 
table gardens, plantations of tropical 



MIAMI TO KEY WEST 383 

fruits, lush forestation, jeweled wat- 
ers and the splendid fishing are ac- 
tual facts — as interesting as the 
storied past. The way through the 
creek is between Elliott's Key 1. and 
Old Rhodes Key and Caesar's 
Creek Banks r. to Hawk's Channel 
and the reef beyond. 

m. The entrance of a dredged channel 
across the shoals (marked). The 
way is through the channel to 

m. The open waters of Card's Sound. 

m. (To the right and around the shoal are 
Arsenicker Keys. An anchorage 
south of the one farthest south and 
east may be made. A good lee in 
northerly winds. Among the roots 
of the mangroves fringing these is- 
lands, and in the water-worn coral 
holes are many mangrove snappers 
and crawfish.) 
Pumpkin Key J m. 1. Behind this Key 
and in the channels near it and south 
of it, is found that most gamey of all 
fish, the bone-fish. Cary's Ford 
Light 1. can be seen on the course 
through Card's Sound, across the 
Key. This course is laid to 
The mouth of Steamboat Creek — the 
creek nearest the ocean on Key 
Largo (see chart). From this point 
of Key Largo r. there is a shoal ex- 
tending to the mainland and mark- 
ing the division between Card's and 
Barnes Sounds. There is a way 



384 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

through this shoal by a cut (see 
chart) from one sound to the other, 
but it is rarely used. In Card's 
Sound, near this point, and also near 
Little Card Point, is a favorite fish- 
ing ground for bone-fish. 
Steamboat Creek, two miles long, is a deep and 
winding stream, with shoals at both entrances. 
It leads through curious mangrove growths, with 
some other forestation that, by its allied nature, 
makes the vista a weird network of twisting, turn- 
ing and interlacing branches, with hanging limbs 
sending out trailing roots as they near the water, 
and clusters of stems growing from the water 
and muck-line and the coral rock, all gathered to- 
gether to form the tree's trunk, starting some- 
times fifteen feet above the- ground. Bird life 
in this creek is abundant; an occasional saurian 
is seen, and even a deer. Through the clear 
water the marine vegetation can be seen, swept 
by the tide's flow as fields of grain are swept by 
a breeze. Fishes of all sorts, corals and sponges, 
pass beneath the eye; turtles, too, and crusta- 
ceans. It is interesting to troll as the boat mo- 
tors on. There is room to pass an oncoming boat. 
The other creeks (three) are similar to this in all 
general ways. 

On leaving the creek the way is 

shoal, but the deepest water is straight 

on. The stakes should be watched in 

making the running. 

Chart No. 167. 

421J m. The entrance to Barnes Sound. The 

course is through the deep water of 

this sound. About a mile from the 



MIAMI TO KEY WEST 385 

course r., soon after leaving Steam- 
boat Creek, are many grouper holes. 

427J m. The entrance to Jewfish Creek, a nar- 
row, deep waterway, separating 
Cross Key r. from Key Largo 1. 
The railway crosses from the main- 
land by a causeway to 

428 m. A drawbridge, with two openings of 
about twenty feet each. In making 
the run through Jewfish Creek the 
state of the tide should be consid- 
ered, and it is well to have an emer- 
gency anchor on the after deck. If 
there is delay in opening the draw, 
and the tide is with the boat, it is 
not an impossible thing to be 
brought up against the center pier 
uncomfortably. There is a little 
widening of the creek, with a little 
room for mooring 1. just before com- 
ing to the draw. On passing it the 
stakes must be followed carefully, 
as the shoals are near the channel, 
which itself has plenty of water. 

428J m. The deep water of Blackwater Sound. 
The course is across this sound to 

43 1 1 m. The mouth of a creek at the left of 
Bush Point. It enters this, and at 

433 m. Tarpon Sound is reached. The course 
is through a dredged channel J m. 
to the deep waters of the sound. 
These are followed. There is good 
fishing here, and excursions can be 
made in the smaller creeks leading 
into this sound. 



386 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

435 m. A creek is entered and followed one- 
fourth mile, then by a dredged chan- 
nel. 

435J ni. Whitewater Bay is entered. Here the 
water is always a cloudy white. 
This sheltered water is crossed to 

438 m. A cut in Key Largo (see chart) and by 
it the way lies out into the more 
open waters of the Bay of Florida. 
From here the way is found by pick- 
ing up the different Keys, and lay- 
ing the course by them (except 
when crossing to Cape Sable). 
Fleets of sponging boats and fishing 
vessels are constantly seen from now 
on. These are visual, but not ol- 
factory treats. Keep to the wind- 
ward of them. 

The course is laid from here to a 
point one-fourth mile off 

441 J m. Pigeon Key 1., care being taken to avoid 
the shoal r. Leaving here the shoal 
south of Pigeon Key 1. is avoided, 
and the way is to 

443^ m. Hammer Point 1. i m. Just beyond 
Hammer Point is Bootless Bay, a 
most attractive little anchorage. 
Crawfish are found along the coral 
rock of its shore, and there is a good 
sandy bathing beach — still water. 
There is a trail to Planter P. O., on 
the ocean side of Key Largo. This 
little settlement was almost de- 
stroyed by a hurricane, but there is 
still a small store there. There are 



MIAMI TO KEY WEST 387 

several fruit plantations in the 
neighborhood — vegetables and 
eggs can also be obtained. Around 
the mangroves at the lower end of 
the bay is the way to Tavernier 
Creek. This is also reached on the 
main course. 
444f m. The staked canal through the barring 
shoals is next traversed. 

446 m. The way to Tavernier Creek 1., and by 

it to the ocean, two miles. It di- 
vides Key Largo from Plantation 
Key (Long Island). At its inside 
entrance are many sea-bass, and the 
creek is a frequented trolling 
ground. Small boats can go 
through the passage under the rail- 
road — 25 ft. wide, 8 ft. head-room 
— to the outer bay at Planter and 
around Tavernier Island, where bot- 
tom fishing is very good and many 
crawfish are found. 

447 m. A staked cut through shoal, J m. 
450 m. Snake Creek 1., leading to the ocean, 

with a passage under the railroad — 
25 ft. wide, 8 ft. head-room. 

452 m. McGinty's Key 1. | m. The way is 
here easily followed through good 
water between shoals (see chart). 

454 m. A bay to the left. At its upper end is 
a channel leading to the ocean, un- 
der the railroad, by a passage 25 ft. 
wide, 8 ft. head-room. On the shore 
of the bay is Islamorada P. O., a 
small settlement of bungalows, with 



388 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

a good dock and six feet of water, 
and a road to the railway. There 
is then a trail leading to Russell's 
P. O., I m., where there is a store 
and commissary supplies may be 
obtained. 
455J m. A dredged channel through shoals. 

456 m. Shell Key 1. i m. On either side of 

this Key are channels toward the 
ocean which are used by small fish- 
ing boats (see chart). 

457 m. A channel to the ocean 1. between Up- 

per and Lower Metacumbe Keys. 

It passes Lignum Vitae Key 1. and 

goes through the drawbridge of the 

railroad. These waters are much 

frequented by fisliermen. 

Tea Table Key r. and Indian Key 1. are easily 

reached. The fishing is especially good around 

Indian Key. This island was the scene of the 

Perrine massacre in the Seminole War times. 

Alligator Reef Light can be seen across the 
Key from this part of the course. From here 
there is a way to Cape Sable that can be taken, 
but it is not advised. It is through varying 
shoals by narrow passages, not marked, and over 
other shoals where only the best stage of the 
tide permits a passage. Though there are sev- 
eral feet — two to three — of tide here, it is much 
affected by winds, and it is not easy to determine 
the probable depth of water. Sometimes the 
shoals are even dry. (Cape Sable is reached eas- 
ily, as suggested farther on, from Long Key, or 
Marathon.) This way can be traced on the charts 
as follows: The course turns right and is by a 



MIAMI TO KEY WEST 389 

passage in the shoal with Twin Keys r. and 
Barnes Key 1., thence through deeper water to 
another passage in the shoal near Rabbit Key r. ; 
thence (Chart No. 168) to a passage in the long 
shoal off Man-of-War Key and Man-of-War 
Bush, both r., following around the shoal (Chart 
No. 167) and past these two Keys to a passage 
in the shoal to deeper water. This deeper water 
is traversed to the big shoal, beyond which the 
way crosses with Cline Key 1. one mile, in to the 
channel that leads to an anchorage off Flamingo 
at Cape Sable. The way over all these shoals is 
through muddy water. 

Continuing the main way — 
460 m. A cut through the long shoal off Bow- 
legs Key 1. J m. 
463 m. The lower end of Lower Metacumbe 
Key is passed. 

The course is now laid to a point 
just off the point of shoals at the up- 
per end of Long Key 1., and follows 
the tongue of deep water (see chart) 
as far as possible, then it keeps along 
the shore of Long Key 1. ^ m. to 
470J m. An anchorage off Long Key (see p. 
201), just before the houses of the 
settlement there are reached. In 
anchoring here, the bottom is hard 
coral rock, and care must be taken 
to see that anchors are set securely. 
The swinging in the turn of the tide 
is apt to loosen them. A landing 
along the shore can be made with a 
small boat, the best point for this 
being at the end of the island, on 



390 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

the inside of the concrete viaduct. 
The dock for the hotel is on the out- 
side of this viaduct. Long Key 
Fishing Camp, situated here, is a 
center for fishermen, and express, 
post and telegraph facilities are 
here. There is also a small store for 
commissary supplies. 
From Long Key there is a way to Cape Sable 
much used and recommended. It can be traced 
on the chart as follows: The main course is 
followed for 7 miles to a point off the coral reef 
off Grassy Key 1. There it turns right and passes 
between Middle Shoal r. and West Horseneck 
Shoal 1. At II m. the course is laid for the 
shoal off East Cape. The first land seen is Sandy 
Key, which at 23 m. is 3 m. to the right. The 
course from Marathon is joined at 29 m., and the 
way then turns (Chart No. 167) and runs along 
the shore to the anchorage off Flamingo, 37 m. 
The water from East Cape out over the shoals 
and along the mainland eastward is always 
muddy. The formation is marl and the bottom 
is deep, sticky mud. There is a tide of three feet, 
which can be taken into account. There is man- 
grove growth along the shore at Flamingo 1. and 
r., and a cleared space at the primitive dock. 
Several families live along the coast. There are 
cane fields and sugar mills, and quantities of 
onions and other vegetables are grown here. 
There is a road back of the mangroves which 
leads eastward to the homes of the settlers, and 
westward to Middle Cape (Chart No. 168), pass- 
ing a sportsmen's club house enroute to the Wad- 
dell cocoanut grove of 90,000 trees at Middle 



MIAMI TO KEY WEST 391 

Cape. The shells on this beach are said by con- 
chologists to be the most interesting found in 
the United States. Back of the road there are 
cultivated fields and savannahs, and then wind- 
ing, forested waterways, teeming with fish, and 
aquatic and land birds and animals. The fast- 
nesses of this remote region have been a safe 
retreat in times past for criminals and social 
outlaws, but the few of these now left are in the 
Everglades farther inland. (Charts Nos. 167 and 
168). The guides, fishermen and planters now 
living there can tell stories of the lawlessness of 
other days, but the sense of aloofness from all 
the rest of the world is what most impresses the 
visiting boatman to-day. The Game Warden in 
charge of the reservation here was killed in the 
discharge of his duties, and the feud over this was 
an exciting one. Naturally extenuating circum- 
stances were claimed. 

Cuthbert Rookery, the last of the great natural 
bird colonies, can be reached from Cape Sable. 
It lies eastward. The journey must be made in 
small boats, and after the muddy shoals of the 
bay are left, the way is through narrow, winding, 
overgrown waterways, through a tangle of 
branches and vines, to the inland salt lakes, where 
the birds nest and breed. To an ornithologist it 
is a red-letter excursion. 

Tarpon abound in the waters about. They are 
speared by the local residents, but they can be 
taken with a hook. There are several good 
guides here for land journeys and for excursions 
to the Ten Thousand Islands, where game 
abounds, both for the land and the water sports- 
man, and where the environment is absolutely 



392 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

primitive. The forestation is very tropical and 
the waters after rounding the capes are beauti- 
fully clear and colored. Cruises of great interest 
can be made to Whitewater Bay and up Shark's 
river into the Everglades, through a region of 
great beauty. The Ten Thousand Islands is in- 
teresting ground for exploration. On Chokolus- 
kee Key there is a settlement and school. The 
guides near Flamingo can be recommended to the 
sportsman and explorer. This is the one region, 
besides the Everglades, that is yet to be invaded 
by civilization. 

Chart No. i68. 

The main course from Long Key is 
through good mackerel fishing 
grounds, with the viaduct 1., to 
474 m. A passage through t4ie shoals. 
474i m. Channel Key, J m. 1. 
477J m. A long shoal and coral reef off Grassy 
Key. The way to Cape Sable r. 
leaves the main course here (see 
above). The course is laid to pass 
481 m. Bamboo Key one-half mile 1. This is- 
land is reputed free from mosqui- 
toes. There is a vegetable garden 
here, and turtle crawls and a good 
little bathing beach. There are 
many sting-rays in the shoal waters 
between Bamboo and Crawl Keys. 
484J m. Stirrup Key, one-fourth mile 1. 
486 m. Rachel Key, one-half mile 1. 
487J m. Marathon P. O., with telegraph and 
express facilities, and supplies of all 
kinds. An anchorage can be found 
at either side of the railroad dock 



MIAMI TO KEY WEST 393 

in good water. Care must be taken 
to be out of the way of the rail- 
road's steamers, launches, etc. 
From Marathon to East Cape Sable, 
28 m., and to the anchorage at Fla- 
mingo, 34 m. (see chart for the 
course). The way is all through open 
water after passing Crescent Shoal 3 
m. 1. Sandy Key is the first land 
sighted, 5 m. 1.. (For Cape Sable see 
p. 390.) Sombrero Key Light can be 
seen at night across the Key. 
Knight's Key dock, f m. 1. and the steel 
and concrete viaduct running south, 
carrying the railroad from key to 
key south. There is a drawbridge 
in this viaduct across Knight's Key 
Channel, which is the deepest and 
best pass to the outside waters. 
Pigeon Key, one-half mile 1. 
Molasses Key, i^ m. 1. 
m. A coral key, one-half mile 1. 
Duck Key, one-half mile 1. 
Bahia Honda Key, one-fourth mile 1. 
This island is a large one, and there 
is good fishing along its shores and 
in the channel at the north end. 
m. The entrance to Bahia Honda Harbor 
Channel. The way turns left and at 
m. Passes between Bahia Honda Key 1. 
and West Summerland Key r., out 
through the F. E. C. R. R. draw to 
m. The buoys in Hawk's Channel. It 
then turns right and lies between 
the protecting reef 1. and the chain 



394 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

of keys r., over which the railway is 
built — a sheltered passage, buoyed 
and lighted to Key West. 

507 m. West Summerland Key, ij m. r., was 
formerly inhabited. Old gardens 
and a well are still there. 
Newfound Harbor Key is passed, 
ij m. r. 
Chart No. 169. 

518 rn. American Shoal Light, 4J m. 1. 

521 m. The entrance to Boca Chica Channel, 
one mile r., a harbor. At 

532J m. The course is opposite East Martello 
Tower, one mile r., on Key West. 

532J m. West Martello Tower, one mile r., and 
the town of Key West. It con- 
tinues to the end of and around the 
island to an anchorage off the dock 
to the north side of 

538I m. Key West (see p. 203). 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES IN 
FLORIDA 

Alachua 

Sheffield Hotel, Mrs. J. Powell; capacity, 12; rates — per 

day, $1.00, per week, $10.00. 
Transient House, J. M. Powell; capacity, ..; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Transient House, A. R. Griffin; capacity, 4; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Apalachicola 
"ranklin Hotel, C. H. Montgomery; capacity, 100; rates 

— per day, $3.00, per week, $15.00. 
duller Hotel, S. Jenkins; capacity, 60; rates — per day, 

$2.50, per week, $15.00. 

Altamonte Springs 
The Altamonte, F. M. Scheibley; capacity, 100; rates — 

per day, $2.50, per week, $12.00. 
Apopka 
\popka House, Mrs. W. K. Williford; capacity, 15; 

rates — per day, $2.00, per week, $7.00. 
Arcadia 
\rcadia House, Mrs. A. Roe; capacity, 35; rates — per 

day, $2.50, per week, $12.00. 
Southern Hotel, Mrs. S. J. Faulks; capacity, 20; rates^ 

per day, $1.00, per week, $5.00. 
Florida House, Mrs. S. Stewart; capacity, 20; rates — 

per day, $1.00, per week, $7.00. 
Cottage Hotel, S. N. Harward; capacity, 20; rates — per 

day, $1.00, per week, $7.00. 
De Soto Hotel, M. S. Woodson; capacity, 50; rates—' 

per day, $2.50, per week, special. 
Archer 
Magnolia House, S. Frie; capacity, 30; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $6.00. 

Atlantic Beach 
The Continental, H. E. Bemis; capacity, 250; rates $4.00 

up. Open March to May. 

395 



396 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Avon Park 

Hotel Verona, Dr. J. H. McCartney; capacity, loo; 

rales, — per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Bartow 
Hotel Oaks, H M. Wear; capacity, 50; rates — per clay, 

$2.50, per week, $15.00. 
Wright House, J. C. Wright; capacity, 20; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Bartow House, Mrs. J. H. Gardner; capacity, 25; rates 

— per day, $1.00, per week, $4.00. 
Glen Oak, Mrs. I. L. McRory; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, $7.00. 
Orange Hotel, Mrs. N. Tillis; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, $6.00. 
Commercial Hotel, Mrs. Z. Towles; capacity, 25; rates 

— per day, $1.50 to $2.00, per week, .... 
Bayard 
Wings, Mrs, Wing; capacity, — ; rates — per day, $1.50, 

per week, $6.00. 

Belleair . 
Belleview, W. J. Fleming; capacity, 450; rates — per day, 

$5.00 up, per week, $28.00 up. 
Belleview 
Boarding House, O. M. Gale; capacity, 12; rates — per 

day, $1.00 up, per week, $6.00. 
Boarding House, R. C. Ridge; capacity, 10; rates — per 

day, $1.00 up, per week, $6.00. 
Bocagrande 
Hotel Boca Grande, C. B. McCall; capacity, 25; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $12.00 to $15.00. 
Bowling Green 
Bowling Green Hotel, Mrs. D. Vestal; capacity, 30; 

rates — per day, $2.00, per week, $7.00. 
Boynton 
Boynton Hotel, Boynton Hotel Co.; capacity, 100; rates 

— per day, $2.00 up, per. week, $14.00 to $18.00. 
The Vera, Mrs. W. H. Funck; capacity, 15; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, special. 
Bradentown 
Wyman House, A. F. Wyman; capacity, 25; rates — 

per day, $3.00, per week, special. 
Manavista Hotel, Marven & Pearsons; capacity, 200; 

rates — per day, $3.00, per week, $15.00. 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES 397 

Le Chalet, John Holder; capacity, 25; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $12.00. 
The Oaks, Mrs. Morris; capacity, 15; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $12.00. 
Garr House, V. A. Garr; capacity, 30; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $12.00. 

Buena Vista 
Courley House, Mrs. Ida Courley; capacity, 15; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, special, 
Captiva 
Captiva House, C. Eyber & Son; capacity, 25; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $12.00. 
Cedar Keys 
Schlemer House, A Schlemer; capacity, 20; rates — per 

day, $2.50, per week, special. 
White House, S. T. White; capacity, ..; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $10.00. 

Citra 
Boarding House, W. A. Redditt; capacity, 6; rates — 

per day, $1.00, per week, $4.00. 
Clearwater 
Verona Inn, Mrs. C. W. Joseph; capacity, 75; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00 to $12.00. 
Sea View, T. Kamansky; capacity, 40; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $10.00 up. 
Sea Ora, Lewis Fitzgerald; capacity, 25; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $8.00 to $10.00. 
Phoenix, Misses Scranton; capacity, 50; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $10.00 to $12.00. 
Amspaugh Cottage, J. L. Amspaugh; capacity, 15; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, $8.00. 
Clearwater Inn, Thos. Gladding; capacity, 50; rates — 

per day, $5.00 up, per week, special. 
Clermont 
Clermont Inn, Wm. Kern; capacity, 30; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, special. 

Cocoa 
Cocoa House, E. E. Grimes; capacity, 110; rates — per 

day. $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Cranbrook Cottage, Jane M. Smith; capacity, 20; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Home Cottage; capacity, 15; rates — per day, $1.50, per 

week, special. 



398 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Singleton Cottage, Mrs. G. S. Singleton; capacity, lo; 

rates — per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
Thomas Cottage, Mrs. M. A. Thomas; capacity, 20; 

rates — per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
Cocoanut Grove 
Camp Biscayne, R. M. Munroe. Write for circulars 

and rates. 

Coleman 
Coleman House, Mrs. R. L. Gowdy; capacity, 2$; rates 

per day, $1.00, per week, $4.50 up. 
Coronado Beach 
Atlantic Hotel, T. B. Demaree; capacity, 75; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Crescent City 
Grove Hall, W. C. Norton; capacity 75; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $8.00 up. 
Sprague House, E. B. Coutant; capacity, 25; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $8.00 up. 
Turner House, Miss M. M. Turner; capacity, 30; rates 

— per day, $1.50, per week, $8.00 up. 
The Southfield, S. A. Kinard; capacity, 35; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, $8.00 up. 
Cutler 
Richmond Cottage, Mrs. S. H. Richmond; capacity, — ; 

rates — per day, $3.00 up, per week, special. 
Dade City 
Woods' Tavern, I. A. Woods; capacity, 25; rates — peq 

day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Embry House, W. E. Embry; capacit}^ 25; rates — peij 

day, $2.00, per week, $7.00 to $10.00. 
Osceola, Mrs. M. D. Cochran; capacity, 20; rates — pe 

day, $2.50. 

Dania j 

Webb Hotel, F. W. Palmer; capacity, 20; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special. 

Daytona (See also Seabreeze) 
The Austin, H. H. Manwiller; capacity, 100; rates — pen 

day, $2.50 up, per week, special. j 

Bennett House, A. H. & E. Lane; capacity, 85; rates — \ 

per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. j 

Brown Cottages, J. G. Brown; capacity, — ; for rent,* 

furnished. 



I 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES 399 

iCity Hotel, J. C. D. Dohn; capacity 20; rates — per day, 

$2.50 up, per week, special. 
JThe Cedars, Mrs. Wm. Jackson; capacity, 30; rates, per 

day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
The Cleveland, Mrs. Sarah Austin; capacity, 20; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Despland, L. M. Waite; capacity, 200; rates — per day, 

$3.00 up. per week, special. 
Fairview, Miss N. L. Lynch; capacity, 25; rates — per 

week, $10.00 to $12.00. 
The Gables, S. H. Moseley; capacity, 30; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $8.00 to $12.00. 
The Glenn, Mrs. Glenn; capacity, 30; rates — per day, 

$1.50 to $2.00, per week, special. 
The Hamilton, I. M. Mabbette; capacity, 20; rates — per 

day, $2.50, per week, $12.50. 
The Howard, J. C. Howard; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $2.00 up, per week, special. 
'The Islington, Mrs. J. B. Parkinson; capacity, 50; rates 

— per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
'Ivy Lane Inn, W. W. Foltz; capacity, — ; rates — per 

day, $3.00 to $4.00, per week, $17.50 up. 
Lyndhurst, R. W. & J. H. Ball; capacity, 40; rates — per 

day, $2.50, per week, $11.00 to $15.00. 
j Magnolia, Mrs. Celeste Hinks; capacity, 40; rates — per 

day, $2.00 up; per week, special. 
Myrtle, Chas. Kost; capacity, 35; rates — per day, $1.50 

up, per week, $10.00. 
Oaks, E. M. Sammis; capacity, 80; rates — per day, $2.50 

up, per week, special. 
Orange Villa, Mrs. Clara Cass; capacity, — ; rates — per 

week, $20.00. 
Osborne House, Amelia Osborne; capacity, 20; rates — 

per day, 50c. up, per week, rooms only. 
Palmetto, C. O. Chamberlain; capacity, 100; rates — per 

day, $3.00, per week, special. 
Parkinson, Mrs. Montana S. Ludlow; capacity, 45; 

rates — per day, $2.50 to $3.00, per week, $12.00 up. 
Pines, Mrs. J. B. Hinsky; capacity, 60; rates — per day, 

$2.00 up, per week, special. 
Prince George, Hilyard & Holroyd; capacity, 125; rates 

— per day, $3.00, per week, special. 



400 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA | 

Prospect, P. J. Doyle; capacity, — ; rates — per day, $2.00 

up, per week, special. 
Ridgewood, E. D. Langworthy; capacity, 150; rates — 

per day, $3.00; per week, special. 
Rosedale, E. M. Brown; capacity, — ; rates — per day, 

$1.50 up, per week, special. 
Saratoga Inn, John J. Maguire; capacity, 20; rates — 

per day, $3.00 up, per week, special. 
Schmidt's Villa, Henry Schmidt; capacity, 100; rates, 

per day, $3.00, per week, $15.00 to $18.00. 
Stanley House, S. H. Moseley; capacity, — ; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, $8.00 to $10.00. 
Tourist House, S. Bennett; capacity, — ; rates — per day, 

$1.50 up, per week, special. 
Troy House, Mrs. Mary Troy; capacity, 50; rates, per 

day, $2.00 up, per week, $7.00 to $10.00. 
Wayside Inn, W. W. Abercrombie; capacity, — ; rates 

on application. 
Western, J. C. Rainsford; capacity, — ; rates — per day, 

$1.50 up, per week, $7.00 to„$io.oo. j 

Willmer, W. C. Branch; capacity, 30; rates — per day,i 

$1.50 to $2.00, per week, $8.00 up. 
Daytona Beach 
Daytona Beach Hotel, Thos. H. Keating; capacity, 60; 

rates — per day, $2.00 to $3.00, per week, special. 
Glenwood, E. F. Britton; capacity, 35; rates — per day, 

$1.50 to $2.00, per week, special. 
Lone Bay Inn, Mrs. Ichabod Dougherty; capacity, — ; 

rates — per day, $1.00 to $1.50, per week, special. 
New Seaside Inn, H. F. Stewart; capacity, 125; rates — 

per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Pinehurst, W. H. Freeman; capacity, 25; rates— per 

day, $1.50; per week, special. 
Van Valzah, J. A. Van Valzah; capacity, 60; rates — per 

day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
White House, E. L. Howard; capacity, — ; rates, per 

day, $1.50 up, per week, special. 
DeLand 
Boarding House, Mrs Dunbar and Miss Dunn; capac- 
ity, 30; rates — per day, $2.50, per week, $12.00 to 

$15.00. 
Carrollton Hotel, G. A. Dreka; capacity, 100; rates — 

per day, $2.30, per week, special. 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES 401 

College Arms, I. T. Whitcomb; capacity, 25; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, $7.50 to $8.50. 
Douglas House, Mrs. A. J. Sembler; capacity, 30; rates 

— per day, $1.50, per week, $7.00 to $10.00. 
Hutchinson Hall, Geo. Hutchinson; capacity, 25; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, $7.00 to $10.00. 
La Villa, Mrs. W. J. Austin; capacity, 25; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $8.00 to $11.00. 
McLeod's, Mrs. E. B. Smythe; capacity, 40; rates — per 

day, $1.50; per week, $8.00 to $12.00. 
Melrose, Mrs. W. W. Alcott; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special. 
The Oaks, S. P. Hays; capacity, 50; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $10.00 to $15.00. 
Putnam Inn, B. E. Brown; capacity, 125; rates — per 

day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Sembler Cottage, Mrs. A. J. Sembler; capacity, — ; 

rates — per day, $2.00, per week, $8.00 to $10.00. 
The Sutherland, M. J. Bennett; capacity, 40; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, $8.00 to $12.00. 
The Waverly, Mrs. Drake; capacity, 35; rates — per day, 

$1.50, per week, $8.00 to $10.00. 
Winter Home, J. E. Coen; capacity, 25; rates— per day, 

$1.50, per week, $8.00 to $12.00. 
De Leon Springs 
De Soto, F. O. Rudd; capacity, 50; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $7.00. 

Delray 
Ocean View, M. Bennett; capacity, 15; rates — per day, 

$1.50, per week, special. 
Sterling House, H. J. Sterling; capacity, 15; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $9.00. 
Dunedin 
Club House, M. N. Thomson; capacity, lOO; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $10.00 up. 
Jordan Hotel, J. D. Jordan; capacity, 25; rates — per 

day, $1.00, per week, $7.00 up. 
Dunnellon 
Dunnellon Hotel, Mrs. Jennie Smith; capacity, 35; 

rates — per day, 2.00, per week, 

Marion Hotel, Mrs. L. Buse; capacity, 35; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, 



402 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Willacoochee Hotel, H. W. Stalker; capacity, 25; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Enterprise 
Epworth Inn, Fla. Christian Assembly Ass'n; capacity, 

100; rates — per day, $2.00; per week, $10.00 to 

$12.50. 

Eau Gallie 
Indian River Inn, J, R. Mathers; capacity, 20; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Private Home, J. C. Boyer; capacity, 10; rates — per 

day, $1,00, per week, $4.50. 
Private Home, W. H. Gleason; capacity, 10; rates — per 

week, $10.00. 
Private Home, J. W. Rosetter; capacity, 10; rates — per 

week, $10.00. 
Private Home, C. L. Taylor; capacity, 10; rates — per 

week, $7.00 to $10.00. 

Eustis 
Ocklawaha House, J. S. Lane; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $3.00, per week, .... 
St. George Cottage, Mrs. Staton; capacity, 30; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, .... 
Wyman House, A. A. Wyman; capacity, 25; rates — 

per day, $1.50, per week, .... 
Fustis House, H. W. Bishop; capacity, 40; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, .... 
Grand View, M. T. Baulet; capacity, 40; rates — per 

day, $2.50; per week, $10.00 up. 
Federal Point (Railway Station, Hastings) 
Groveland House, F. F. Tenney; capacity, 20; rates— 

per day, $1.50, per week, $7.00 to $9.00. 
Florence Villa 
Florence Villa, H. Guy Nickerson; capacity, 300; rates, 

per day, $3.00 up; per week, special. 
Fort Pierce 
Atlantic, Faber Bros.; capacity, 25; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, special. 
Carlton, Mrs. L. L. Carlton; capacity, 15; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, special. 
Chester House, Mrs. Harbin; capacity, — ; rates, per 

day, $1.25; per week, special. 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES 403 

Ft. Pierce Hotel, Mrs. F. M. Tyler; capacity, 75; rates 

— per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Riverview Hotel, Mrs. S. W. Jennings; capacity, 35; 

rates — per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Spring Cottage, F. C. Adams; capacity, — ; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Stetson Hotel, Lucian Baker; capacity, 25; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 

Fort Lauderdale 
New River Hotel, P. N. Bryan; capacity, 60; rates — 

per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Fort Meade 
Lightsey House, Mrs. J. C. Reif; capacity, 10; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $8.00 to $10.00. 
Southern Hotel, M. H. Wilson; capacity, 35; rates — 

per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
Fort Myers 
Royal Palm, F. H. Abbott; capacity, 200; rates — per 

day, $5.00 up, per week, .... 
Hotel Bradford, E. F. Wyatt; capacity, 85; rates — per 

day, $3.00 to $3.50, per week, $17.50. 
Hill House, Mrs. M. F. Hill; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $2.50; per week, $12.50. 
Thorp House, Mrs. L. G. Thorp; capacity, 30; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $12.00, 
Florida House, W. A. Nelson; capacity, 30; rates — per 

day, $1.50; per week, $9.00. 
Cottage Home, Mrs. S. W. Sanchez; capacity, 20; rates 

— per day, $2.50, per week, $12.50. 
River View, Mrs. A. M. Brandon; capacity, 40; rooms 

only, special. 
Sellers House, J. L Sellers; capacity, 20; rates — per day, 

$1.00, per week, $5.00. 
The Everglades, Mrs. K. B. King; capacity, 150; rates 

— per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 

Gainesville 
Brown House, J. A. Ettel; capacity, 75; rates — per day, 

$2.50, per week, special. 
Magnolia Hotel, J. S. Goode; capacity, 40; rates, per 

day, $1.25, per week, special. 
White House, W. R. Thomas; capacity, 60; rates — per 

day, $2.50, per week, special. 



404 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Commercial, W. R. Richardson; capacity, 25; rates — 

per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
Grant 
Jorgensen House, L. Jorgensen; capacity, 30; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Green Cove Springs 
Hotel Quisisana; capacity, 200; rates — per day, $4.00 

up, per week, special. 
Tyler House, Mrs. J. W. Lucas; capacity, 30; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Mohawk, Mrs. C. W. Tyler; capacity, 30; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Riverside Hotel, Mrs. M. Hancock; capacity, — ; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Hastings 
Hastings Hotel, J. W. Sealy; capacity, 60; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Homes' Place, A. M. Homes; capacity, 10; rates — per 

day, $1.00, per week, $5.00. 
The Fox House, B. F. Fox; capacity, 10; rates — per 

day, $1.00, per week, $5.00. 

Hawks Park 
Bay View House, M. R. Mendell; capacity, — ; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Hobe Sound 
The Wigwams, J. H. Grant; capacity, — ; rates — per 

week, $12.00. 

Homosassa 
Rendezvous, T. D. Briggs; capacity, 100; rates — per 

day, $3.00 up, per week, .... 
Crescent Lodge, E. B. Richardson; capacity, 20; rates 

— per week, $2.00 up, per week, special. 
Carpenter Hotel, I. C. E. Carpenter; capacity, 18; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Palmetto Inn, R. O. Stephens; capacity, 12; rates — per 

day, $1.00, per week, special. 
Crescent Lodge, S. R. Udell; capacity, 15; rates, per 

day, $2.50 up, per week, .... 
Whithall, J. J. Williams; capacity, 15; rates — per day, 

$2.00 up; per week, special. 

Indianola (Cocoa) 
Hotel Indianola, Ballard and Maxfield; capacity, 60; 

rates — per day, $2.00, per week, $8.00 to $10.00. 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES 405 

Island Grove. 
Carlton House, Mrs. Carlton; capacity, — ; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $5.00. 

Jacksonville. 
Seminole, Wm. H. Marshall; capacity 250; rates — per 

day, $1.50 up, European. 
Windsor, C. H. Montgomery; capacity, 400; rates — per 

day, $3.50 up, per week, 

Aragon, J. A. Newcomb; capacity 250; rates — per day, 

$2.50 up, per week, .... 
Duval, W. M. Floor; capacity, 250; rates — per day, 

$2.50 up, per week, $17.50 to $40.00. 
Everett, George Mason; capacity, 225; rates — per day, 

$1.00 up, European. 
Albert, W. A. Guill & Co.; capacity, 200; rates — per 

day, $1.00 up, European. 
Park, W. H. Lowry; capacity, 100; rates — per day, $1.00 

up, European. 
St. Albans, K. H. Conroy; capacity, 50; rates — per day, 

$2.50 up; per week, $12.50 up. 
The Royal Palms, Mrs. M. J. Morgan; capacity, — ; 

rates — per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Grand View, D. E. Cooper; capacity, 60; rates — per 

day, $2.00 up, per week, $10.00 up. 
Waverly, Mrs. L. Wilson; capacity, 150; rates — per 

day, $1.00, European. 
New St. James, W. E. Alexander; capacity, 125; rates, 

per day, $1.00 up, European, per week, special. 
Atlantic, George Morford; capacity, 175; rates — per 

day, 5c. up, European. 
Windle, W. W. Smith; capacity, 100; rates — per day, 

$2.50 up, per week, $10.00 up, American; per day, 

$1.00 up, European. 
Victoria, M. Ingalls; capacity, 75; rates — per day, $2.00 

up, per week, $10.00 up. 
Travelers, Mrs. H. W. Hancock; capacity, 100; rates — 

per day, $2.00 up, per week, $8.00 up. 
Riverview, T. Griffith; capacity, 60; rates — per day, 

$1.50 up, per week, $7.00 up. 
Westmoreland, John F. May; capacity, 75; rates — per 

day, $2.00 up, per week, .... 
Lenox, W. M. Teahan; capacity, 65; rates — per day, 

$2.00 up, per week, special. 



4o6 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Jupiter 
Carlin House, M. M. Carlin; capacity, 20; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Kissimmee. 
Park House, A. Rose; capacity, 50; rates — per day, 

$1.00, per week, $6.00. 
The Inn, H. W. Thurman; capacity, 60; rooms only. 
Greystone, H. W. Thurman; capacity, 60; rates — per 

day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Lake House, J. Hyde; capacity, 50; rates — per day, 

$1.00, per week, special. 
Groves House, R. Groves; capacity, 20; rates — per day, 

special, per week special. 

Key West 
Cripe and Annexes; capacity, 60; rates — per day, 50c. 

up, per week, rooms only. 
Edgar House; capacity, 20; rates — per day, $1.00, per 

week, rooms only. 
Island City Hotel; capacity, 50; rates — per day, $1.00, 

per week, rooms only. 
The Jefferson, J. P. Vining; capacity, 80; rates — per 

day, $3.00; per week, special. 
The Victoria, Alvarez & Co.; capacity, 20; rates — per 

day, $1.00 up, per week, European. 
LaBelle 
Ft. Thompson Park Hotel, E. E, Goodno; capacity, 50; 

rates — per day, $3.00, per week, .... 
Hotel Everett, E. E. Goodno; capacity, 25; rates — per 

day, $3.00, per week, 

Lake City 
Blanche Hotel, J. W. Ettell; capacity, 75; rates — per 

day, $2.50, per week, $10.00. 
Central Hotel, J. T. Briere; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $8.00. 

Lake Helen 
Harlan Hotel, P. E. Stone; capacity, 10; rates — per day, 

$2.00 to $2.50, per week, $10.00 to $15.00. 
Hotel Webster, J. A. and M. I. Jefferys; capacity, 200; 

rates — per day, $2.00, per week, $8.00 to $9.00. 

Lakeland 

Tremont, John S. Bowen; capacity, 75; rates, per day, 

$2.50, per week, special. 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES 407 

Glenada, U. Blount; capacity, 35; rates — per day, $2.00, 

per week, special. 
Sidney, J. E. Lee; capacity, 35; rates — per day, $2.00, 

per week, special. 
Arlington, Mrs. M. E. Rice; capacity 30; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Matanzas, Mrs. Mcintosh; capacity, 20; rates — per day, 
$1.50, per week, special. 

Lantana 
Lantana House, M. B. Lyman; capacity, 10; rates — 
per day, $2.00, per week, $12.00. 
Lawtey 
Redding House, Mrs. Redding; capacity, 12; rates — per 
day, $1.50, per week, $5.00. 
Largo 
Hotel Largo, F. M. Campbell; capacity, 30; rates — per 
day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Leesburg 
Lakeview Hotel, E. C. Worrell; capacity, 125; rates — 

per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Magnolia, J. A. McCormack; capacity, 12; rates — per 

day, $2.50, per week, special. 
Hotel Heights, L. E. Dozier; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $2.50, per week, special. 
Commercial Hotel, W. & M. C. Folson; capacity, 15; 
rates, per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Little River 
Douthett House, Miss Douthett; capacity, 15; rates — 
per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Live Oak 
Suwanee, Pearson & Letcher; capacity, 100; rates — 

per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Ethel Hotel, J. R. McDonald; capacity, 40; rates — per 
day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Long Key 
Long Key Fishing Camp, L. P. Schutt; capacity, 100; 
rates — per day, $3.00 up, per week, special. 
Lloyd 
Whitfield House, Mrs. I. H. Dennis; capacity, 10; rates 
— per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Loughman 
Wray Camps, rates — per day, $2.00. 



4P8 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Madison 

Merchant Hotel, Mrs. J. P. McCall; capacity, 60; rates 

— per day, $2.50, per week, $10.00. 
Magnolia Springs 
Magnolia Springs, O. D. Seavey; capacity, 300; rates — 

per day, $4.00, per week, $21.00 up. 
Magnolia Inn, O. D. Seavey; capacity, 30; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $12.00 to $14.00. 
Maitland 
Maitland Inn, D. T. Jiidd; capacity, 50; rates — per day, 

$2.00 to $2.50, per week, $18.00. 
The Oaks, M. E. Simmons; capacity, 10; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, $7.00. 
Moreman House, Mrs. L. A. Moreman; capacity, 25; 

rates, per day, $1.50; per week, $8.00. 
Manatee 
The Central Hotel, H. L. Ringo; capacity, 200; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $11.00. 
Marco 
Hotel Marco, W. D. Collier; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $1.50, to $2.00, per week, 

Melbourne 
Brown House, Mrs. George M. Brown, capacity, 40; 

rates — per day, $2.00 up, per week, special. 
Carleton, John M. Ferguson; capacity, 85; rates — per 

day, $2.00 up, per week, $14.00 up. 
Myrtle Cottage, G. G. Cummings; capacity, 20; rates — • 

per day, $1.50, per week, $8.00. 
Sunny Rest, Mrs. M. A. Brown; capacity, 20; rates — • 

per day, $1.50, per week, $8.00. 
Merritt (Cocoa) 
River View; rates — per week, $7.00 to $10.00. 
The Pines, Mrs. Gertrude T. Duff; rates — per week, 

$12.50 to $15.00. 

Miami 
Arcade, Mrs. J. E. Ogle; capacity, — ; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, special. 
Bay View, Mrs. E. C. Miller; capacity, 30; rates — per 

day, $2.00 up, per week, special. 
Biscayne Hotel, H. G. Keith; capacity, 150; rates — per 

day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Boyd Cottage, Mrs. J. W. Boyd; capacity, 30; rates — 

per day, $2.00 up, per week, special. 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES 409 

Commercial, Conrad Schmid; capacity, 20; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Ft. Dallas Hotel, Mrs. Lillie L. Flanagan; capacity, — ; 

rates, per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Gralyn House, S. Graham; capacity, 40; rates, per day, 

$3.00 up, per week, special. 
Green Tree Inn, M. H. March; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $2.50 to $3.50, per week, special. 
The Gautier, Mrs. T. N. Gautier; capacity, 10; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00 to $14.00. 
Hinson House, Mrs. J. E. Hinson; capacity, 12; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $12.00 up. 
Hotel Iroquois, R. T. Daniels; capacity, 150; rates — 

per day, $2.50 up, American and European plans. 
Minneapolis, J. P. Sawtelle; capacity, 40; rates — per 

day, $2.00 to $2.50, per week, special. 
New Everglade, Mrs. I. M. Wells; capacity, — ; rates — 

per day, $2.00; per week, special. 
The Rocklyn, P. C. Hainlin; capacity, 20; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week. $7,00 up. 
Royal Palm, J. P. Greaves; capacity, 400; rates — per 

day, $6.00 up, per week, special. 
The Rutherford, Mrs. V. A. Rutherford; capacity, 15; 

rates — per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
San Carlos, Gus A. Muller; capacity, 60; rates — per 

day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
White Palace, G. D. Smith; capacity, 300; rates — per 

day, $2.00 to $4.00, per week, special. 

Montbrook 
Davis House, Mrs. J. R. Davis; capacity, 50; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $5.00. 
Piney Woods Inn, Mrs. J. S. Sistrunk; capacity, 20; 
rates — per day, $2.00, per week, $7.50. 
Monticello 
St. Elmo, H. W. McRory; capacity, 100; rates — per 

day, $2.75; per week, special. 
Scott House, Mrs. R. Scott; capacity, 15; rates — per 
day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Morriston 
Cox House, J. P. Cox; capacity, 50; rates — per day, 
$1.50, per week, $8.00. 



410 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Mount Dora 

Lakeside Inn, Geo. D. Thayer; capacity, 75; rates — per 

day, $2.50, per week, $12.00 to $15.00. 
Bruce House, B. M. Bruce; capacity, 40; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $8.00 to $12.50. 
Naples-on-the-Gulf 
Hotel burned. 

New Smyrna 
Alba Court, C. W. & J. F. Pennell; capacity, 45; rates 

— per day, $2.00 up, per week, $10.00 up. 
Byrd House, J. W. Byrd; capacity, 22; rates — per 

day, $1.00, per week, $5.00. 
Fox House, Dr. B. F. Fox; capacity, 15; rates — per 

day, $1.50 up, per week, special. 
Magnolia, Mrs. G. A. Demmick; capacity, 25; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Ocean House, Sams & Sams; capacity, 100; rates — per 

day, $3-00, per week, $15.00 up. 
Palmetto, Mrs. J. W. Ashton; capacity, 15; rates — per 

day, $1.00, per week, $5.00. - 
Paul Cottage, Mrs. Paul; capacity, 20; rates — per day, 

$1.50, per week, $10.00. 

Oak Hill 
Barker House, PL S. Barker; capacity, 20; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, $6.00. 
Ocala 
Montezuma, J. A. Dewey, capacity, 170; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, special. 
Ocala House, E. L. Maloney; capacity, 200; rates — per 

day, $2.50, per week, special. 
Hotel Metropole, Mrs. C. A. Liddon; capacity, 20; 

rates — per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Orange City 
Orange City Hotel. R. L. Fenn; capacity, 5; rates — 

per day, $2.00 to $2.50, per week, special. 
The Trues, J. L. True; capacity, 2; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $7.00 up. 

Orange Park 
Cottage Inn, Mrs. A. L. Evans; capacity, 20; rates— 

per day, $2.00; per week, special. 
Twin Cottage, Miss VanEmburg; capacity, 25; rates^ 
per day, $2.00, per week, special. 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES 411 

Orlando 
San Juan, H. L. Beeman; capacity, 150; rates — per day, 

$3.00, per week, special. 
Tremont Hotel, Capt, J. W. Wilmont; capacity, 120; 

rates — per day, $2.00 up, per week, special. 
The Pines, J. T. Horner; capacity, 25; rates — per day, 

$1.50, per week, special. 
New Lucerne, Mrs. R. S. Rowland; capacity, 75; rates 

— per day, $2.50, per week, special. 
The Windmere, Mrs. Bryant; capacity, 25; rates — per 

da3% $1.50, per week, special. 
Duke Hall, Mrs. J. K. Duke; capacity, 30; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, special. 
Eola Cottage, Miss H. T. Paul; capacity, 20; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
The Summerlin, Mrs. C. V. Caldwell; capacity, 25; 

rates — per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
The Windsor, Mrs. J. Q. Myers; capacity, 25; rates — 

per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
The Wyoming, A. T. Miller; capacity, 75; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special. 
The Childs Cottage, Mrs. J. P. McBride; capacity, 15; 

rates — per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
The Keystone, Mrs. H. B. Myers; capacity, 15; rates — 

per day, special, per week, special. 
The St. Charles, Hilpert & Paul; capacity, 60; rates — 

per day, $2.00 to $2.50, per week, $14.00 to $25.00. 
Ormond 
Granada, F. R. Moore; capacity, 30; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $10.00 to $12.00. 
Mildred Villa, A. M. Watson; capacity, 20; rates — per 

day, $2.50, per week, $10.00 to $15.00. 
Ormond, J. D. Price; capacity, 600; rates — per day, 

$5.00 up, per week, special. 
Rose Villa, Mrs. Frank Mason; capacity, 20; rates — 

per day, $2.00 to $2.50, per week, $10.00 to $15.00. 
The Inn, Anderson & Price Co.; capacity, 75; rates — 

per day, $3.00 to $4.00, per week, special. 
Oviedo 
Argo House, Mrs. J. Argo; capacity, 25; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Gushing House, T. L. Gushing; capacity, 30; rates^ 

per day, $2.00, per week, special. 



412 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Palatka 
Arlington, E. L. Wilbur; capacity, 75; rates — per day, 

$2.00 up, per week, special. 
Devereux Home, Mrs. M. Devereux; capacity, 10; rates 

— per day, 50c. up, rooms only. 
The Howell, R. C. Howell; capacity, 100; rates — per 

day, $2.00 up, per week, special. 
Kimball House, Mrs. J. A. Granger; capacity, 20; rates 

— per day, $1.25 up, per week, special. 
Metcalf House, Mrs. Willie Metcalf; capacity, — ; rates 

— per day, $1.50, per week, $8.00 to $10.00. 
Saratoga, M. B. Jacobson; capacity, 75; rates — per day, 

$2.50 up, per week, special. 
Palm Beach 
The Breakers, Leland Sterry; capacity, 600; rates — per 

day, $6.00 up. 
Hibiscus; capacity, 125; rates — per day, $2.50 up, per 

week, special. 
Palm Beach Hotel, Sidney Maddock; capacity, 300; 

rates — per day, $3.00 up; per" week, special. 
Royal Poinciana, H. E. Bemis; capacity, 2,000; rates — 

per day, $6.00 up. 

Palmetto 
Oaks Hotel, J. N. Green; capacity, 50; rates — per day, 

$2.50, per week, $ro.oo. 

Pas a Grille 
The La Plaza, Mrs. A. C. Hartley; capacity, 75; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
The Bonhomie, Geo. H. Lazotte; capacity, 25; rates — 

per day, $1.50, per week, $9.00. 
Mason Hotel, J. A. Mason; capacity, 25; rates — per 

day, $f.SO, per week, special. 
Page's Hotel, C. C. Page; capacity, 25; rates— per day, 

$1.50, per week, special. 

Pensacola 
Escambia, G. W. Sims; capacity, — ; rates — per day, 

$2.00. 
Manhattan, A. Goldbach; capacity, — ; rates— per day, 

$2.50. 
San Carlos, G. H. Hervey; capacity, 175; rates— per 

day, $1.50 to $4.00, European. 
Southern, K. L Bowen; capacity, — ; rates — per day, 

$2.50. 



I 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES 413 

Plant City 

City Hotel, Mrs. W. A. McQuaig; capacity, 25; rates— 

per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Palmetto Hotel. (Being rebuilt.) 
Roseiawn, Mrs. E. R. Crum; capacity, lOO; rates — ^per 

day, $2.50, per week, special. 

Ponce Park (Mosquito Inlet) 
Pacetti House, G. A. Pacetti; capacity, — ; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Park Hotel, J. R. Ellison; capacity, — ; rates — per day, 

$2.50, per week, special. 
Pacetti's, B. J. Pacetti; capacity, 15; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $10.00. 

Port Orange 
Port Orange House, S. Fred Cummings; capacity, 45; 

rates — per day, $2.50, per week, special. 
The Illinois, D. W. Winn; capacity, 18; rates — per day, 

$1.50, per week, special. 

Punta Gorda 
Dade House, S. I. Huffman; capacity, 40; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $12.00. 
Travelers Hotel, Mrs. J. C. Johns; capacity, 40; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $12.00. 
Punta Rassa 
Shultz Hotel, Geo. R. Shultz; capacity, 60; rates, per 

day, $3.00, per week, $21.00. 
Quincy 
Lorrance Hotel, J. W. Baschal; capacity, 20; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00, 
The Quincy, W. M. Mabson; capacity, 100; rates — per 

day, $2.50, per week, $14.00. 

River Junction 
Shepard House, W. L. Shepard; capacity, 50; rates- 
special. 

Rockledge 
Indian River, Hotel Indian River Co. Inc.; capacity, 

300; rates — per day, $3.00 up, per week, special. 
New Rockledge and Cottages, D. L. & W. H. Wood; 

capacity, 200; rates — per day, $3.00, per week, spe- 
cial. 
Oak Cottage, F. D. Baldwin; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $2.00 to $2.50, per week, special. 



414 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Plaza Hotel; capacity, 200; rates — per day, $2.50 up, 

per week, $I4.(X) to $18.00. 
Singleton Cottage, Mrs. Geo. L. Singleton; capacity, 

20; rates — per day, $1.50 up, per week, special. 
White's Cottages, J. J. White; capacity, 30; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $10.00 to $12.00. 
St. Augustine 
Alcazar, W. McAuliffe; capacity, 400; rates — per day, 

$4.00 up, per week, .... 
Arlington, Mrs. Emma McL. McKeen; capacity, 60; 

rates — per day, $2.00 up, per week, special. 
Barcelona, Miss A. N. Blair; capacity, 70; rates — per 

day, $2.50 to $4.00, per week, special. 
Bay State Cottage, W. P. Oliver; capacity, 15; rates — • 

per day, $1.50 to $2.00, per week, special. 
Bennett House, S. F. Bennett; capacity, 60; rates — per 

day, $2.00 to $3.00, per week, $15.00 to $20.00. 
Buckingham, Wachenhousen & Maust; capacity, 75; 

rates — per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Campbell House, Jno. T. Campbell; capacity, 30; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Central Hotel, C. W. Johnson; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $1.50 to $2.00, per week, $8.00 to $12.00. 
Craddock House, Mrs. E West; capacity, 40; rates — 

per day, $1.50 to $2.00, per week, special. 
Dunham House, Mrs. D. L. Dunham; capacity, 25; 

rates — per day, $1.50 to $2.00, per week $7.00 to 

$12.00. 
Florida, O'Connor & Mahon; capacity, 250; rates — per 

day, $2.50 to $3.50, per week, special. 
Granada, S. Thomas Penna; capacity, 150; rates — per 

day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Hotel Clairmont, Mrs. A. Boutelle; capacity, 75; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Keystone, L. J. Boyes; capacity, 60; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, special.. 
La Borde, Mrs. E. Cowan; capacity, 40; rates — per day, 

$1.00 to $1.50, per week, special. 
La Posada, Mrs. John Center; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $1.00 to $1.50, per week, special. 
Lyon Building, O. B. Smith; capacity, 150; rooms only. 
Magnolia, Palmer & MacDowell; capacity, 300; rates 

— per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES 415 

The Marion, H. Muller; capacity, 100; rates — per day, 

$2.50 up, per week, special. 
Monson House, A. V. Monson; capacity, 75; rates — 

per day, $1.50 to $2.50, per week, special. 
Neligan, Mrs. H. Neligan; capacity, 20; rates — per day, 

$1.50 to $2.50, per week, special. 
Ocean View, H. E. Hernandez; capacity, 75; rates — 

per day, $2.00 up, per week, special. 
Palmetto; capacity, 50; rates — per day, $1.50 to $2.00, 

per week, $7.00 to $10.00. 
Ponce de Leon, Robert Murray; capacity, 500; rates — 

per day, $5.00 up, per week, 

San Marco; capacity, 100; rates, per day, $1.00, rooms 

only. 
Spear Mansion, Mrs. A. R. Spencer; capacity, 50; rates 

— per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
St. George, M. B. Montgomery; capacity, 200; rates — 

per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Valencia, Miss E. Frazer; capacity, 75; rates — per day, 

$2,50 to $3.00, per week, $15.00 to $20.00. 
Villa Flora, Mrs. Alanson Wood; capacity, — ; cottages 

furnished. 

St. Cloud 

New modern hotel will be opened and operated during 
season 1911-12. 

St. Lucie 
Killcalre, Benj. Sooy; capacity, — ; rates — per day, 
$3.00, per week, $20.00. 

St. Petersburg 

The Detroit, C. N. Crawford; capacity, 225; rates — per 

day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
The Hollenbeck, S. D. Hollenbeck; capacity, 225; rates 

— per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
The Huntington, C. S. Hunt; capacity, 225; rates — per 

day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
The Manhattan, Staples & Lyman; capacity, 200; rates 

— per day, $2,50 up, per week, special. 
The Central, J. N. Thorn; capacity, 200; rates — per 

day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
The Ansonia, F. E. Cole; capacity, 150; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, special. » 



4i6 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

The Belmont, Mrs. C. B. Tippetts; capacity, 125; 

rates — per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
The Livingstone, Mrs. L. F. Livingstone; capacity, 100; 

rates — per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
The Chataiiqua, F. H. Wilcox; capacity, 100; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
The Allen House, Mrs. M. R. Allen; capacity, 75; rates 

— per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
Dusenberry Villa, Mrs. W. P. Dusenberry; capacity, 

75; rates, per day, $2.00 to $2.50, per week, $10.00 

to $12.00. 
The Paxton House, Mrs. W. W. Coleman; capacity, 

75; rates — per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
The Panama, G. M. White; capacity, 75; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, special. 
Planters Hotel, A. J. Knight; capacity, 75; rates — per 

day, $1.50, per week, special. 
The Bon Air, W. W. Birchfield; capacity, 50; rates — 

per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
Overman House, W. J. Overman; capacity, 50; rates — 

per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
The Olud House, Mrs. C. Wilson; capacity, 50; rates 

— per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
The Albion, Mrs. L. H. Strum; capacity, 50; rates — 

per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
Pinellas Hotel, Mrs. F. Field; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $1.00, per week, special. 
Whitfield House, C. Whitfield; capacity, 50; rates — per 

day, $1.00, per week, special. 
Sarven House, H. Sarven; capacity, 50; rates — per day, 

$1.00, per week special. 
Norton Flats; rooms only, special rates by week, month 

or season. 
Tonnelier Flats; rooms only, special rates by week, 

month or season. 
Chapman House, M. W. D. Chapman; capacity, 50; 

rates — per day, $1.00, per week, special. 
Davis House, Mrs. C. M. Davis; capacity, 50; rates — 

per day, $1.00, per week, special. 
The Bell House, Mrs. R. P. Bell; capacity, 30; rates — ■ 

per day, $1.00, per week, special. 
Almon House, Mrs. M. L. Stroger; capacity, 25; rates 

— per day, $1.00, per week, special, 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES 417 

Bramlitt House, Mrs. M. Bramlitt; capacity, 25; rates 

— per day, $1.00, per week, special. 
Bon Air House, Mrs. C. S. Pepper; capacity, 25; rates 

— per day, $1.00, per week, special. 
Majestic House, W. H. Jett; capacity, 25; rates — per 

day, $1.00, per week, special. 
The Palms, Mrs. W. L. Straub; capacity, 25; rates — 

per day, $1.00, per week, special. 
The Jenkins House, Mrs. A. D. Jenkins; capacity, 20; 

rates, per day, $1.00, per week, special. 
The Ark, Mrs. F. Graham; capacity, 20; rates — per 

day, $1.00, per week, special. 
The Dow House, Mrs. A. Dow; capacity, 20; rates — 

per day, $1.00, per week, special. 
Roberts House, Mrs. W. A. Roberts; capacity, 20; 

rates — per day, $1.00, per week, special. 
The Henry House, Mrs. W. C. Henry; capacity, 20; 

rates — per day, $1.00, per week, special. 
The Bay Shore House, Miss L. Mangold; capacity, 20; 

rates — per day, $1.00, per week, special. 
Sanford 
New Sanford House, Harry P. Driver; capacity, 100; 

rates — per day, $3.00, per week, $15,00; American. 
Bye Lo Hotel, W. L. Fielding; capacity, 50; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00 to $12.00. 
Gate City House, J. D. Parker; capacity, 20; rates — 

per day, $1.50, per week, $7.00. 
Pico Hotel, Mrs. Tackach; capacity, — ; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $10.00 to $12.00. 
Comfort Cottage, Mrs. M. Martin; capacity, 50; rates 

— per day, $2.50, per week, $10.00 to $12.00. 
Chandler House, Mrs. Chandler; capacity, 10; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Robins Nest, E. Robins; capacity, 25; rates — per day, 

$2.00 up, per week, $10.00. 

Sanibel Island 
Casa Ybel, Duncan & Barnes; capacity, 60; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $10.00 to $12.00. 
The Matthews, Mrs. W. J. Matthews; capacity, 50; 

rates — per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00 to $12.00. 
The Gables, The Misses Nutt; capacity, 10; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00 to $12.00. 



4i8 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Sanibel House, Mrs. J. B. Daniels; capacity, 25; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Woodring House, Mrs, A. E. Woodring; capacity, 10; 

rates — per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
San Mateo 
Byrlyn Place, J. A. Crosby; capacity, 10; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $8.00 to $10.00. 
Idlewild, Dr. J. E. Cochrane; capacity, 10; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $8.00 to $12.00. 
The Palms, Mrs. F. A. Bailey; capacity, 10; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $8.00 to $10.00. 
Sarasota 
Belle Haven Inn, Dr. John Halton; capacity, 200; 

rates — per day, $3.00 up, per week, $15.00. 
Halton Hotel, Dr. John Halton; capacity, 100; rates — 

per day, $2.50, per week, $15.00. 
The Sarasota, H. S. Smith; capacity, 25; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $10.00 to $12.00. 
Seabreeze 
The Clarendon, E. L. Potter, Rropr., W. S. Kenne3% 

Mgr.; capacity, 300; rates — per day, $5.00 up, per 

week, $28.00 up. 
The Glenwood, E. F. Britton; capacity, 40; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $12.00. 
Cherokee Cottage, H. L. Kochersperger; capacity, ido; 

rates — per day, $1.00 up, European. 
The Nautilus, E. D. Langworthy; capacity, 225; rates 

— per day, $4.00 up, per week, 

Sebastian 
Braddock House, G. A. Braddock; capacity, 20; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Private Board, W. F. Baughman; capacity, — ; rates — 

per day, $1.50, per week, special. 
Silver Springs 
Brown House, Mrs. M. F. Brown; capacity, — ; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Stuart 
Danforths, Mrs. C. Stephenson; capacity, 25; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00 to $12.00. 
Stuart House, Wm. M. Ehrhart; capacity, — ; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Private Home, Broster Retching; capacity, 30; rates — 

per day, 50c. up, rooms. 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES 419 

Private Home, Mrs. U. S. Robinson; capacity, 10; rates 

— per day, 50c. up, rooms. 
Private Home, G. W. Thomas; capacity, 10; rates — per 

day, 50c. up, rooms. 

Suwanee 
Suwanee Springs Hotel; capacity, 75; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $10.50. 

Tampa 
Tampa Bay Hotel, David Lauber; capacity, 500; rates 

— per day, $3.50 to $5.00, per week, special. 
DeSoto Hotel, W. L. Parker; capacity, 200; rates — per 

day, $2.50 up, per week, $17.50 to $30.00. 
Almeria Hotel, C. H. Hawes; capacity, 60; rates — per 

day, $1.00 to $1.50; per week, special. 
Hotel Hillsboro, J. L. Tallevast; capacity, 100; rates — 

per day, i.oo up, per week, special. 
St. Charles, C. Mexis; capacity, 75; rates, per day, 

$1.50, per week, special. 
Hotel Palmetto, A. Paleveda; capacity, 75; rates — per 

day, $1.50 up, per week, special. 
Hotel Commercial, Mike Makres; capacity, 50; rates — 

per day, $1.00, per week, special. 
Marlboro, E. G. Smith; capacity, 50; rates — per day, 

$1.00, per week, special. 

Tarpon Springs 

The Ferns Hotel, C. H. Lee; capacity, 25; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $8.00 to $12.00. 
Homeworth Inn, Theo. J. Petzold; capacity, 15; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $8.00 to $12.00. 
Tavares 
Fitch Hotel, Mrs. E. J. Fitch; capacity, 20; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Osceola Hotel, B. F. McCormick; capacity, 50; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
Thonotosassa 
Grand View, D. E. Hazen; capacity, 30; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, special. 

Titusville 

Hotel Dixie, W. F. Green; capacity, 150; rates — per 
day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 

Deisner's Boarding House, Mrs. E. J. Renaker; capac- 
ity, 40; rates — per day, $1.50, per week, $5.00. 



420 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Myers' Cottage, Mrs. W. H. Myers; capacity, 30; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, $8.00. 
Palm-Hurst, A. F. Falck; capacity, 25; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, special. 
The Sterling, P. G. Walton; capacity, 25; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special. 

Useppa Island 
Useppa Inn, F. Lyon Roach; capacity, 70; rates — per 

day, $3.50, per week, $20.00. 
Walton 
The Walton Inn, F. G. McMullen; capacity, — ; rates 

per day, $2.50 to $3.00, per week, special. 
Wauchula 
Peace River Hotel, A. C. McCall; capacity, 200; rates 

— per day, $3.00, per week, special. 
Wauchula House, J. L Bush; capacity, 30; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special 
DeSoto, G. Tompkins; capacity, 40; rates — per day, 

$2.00, per week, $5.00. 

Weirsdalei 
Lake Side Hotel, L. T. Clawson; capacity, 60; rates — 

per day, $2.00, per week, $12.00. 
Pleasant Hill House, Mrs. E. S. Upham; capacity, 20; 

rates — per day, $2.00, per week, $8.00. 
West Palm Beach 
Briggs Cottage, Mrs. H. E. Briggs; capacity, 20; rates 

— per day, $2.50, per week, $11.00 to $15.00. 
Earman House, Mrs S. E. Earman; capacity, — ; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Gables, W. M. & N. B. McGriff; capacity, — ; rates— 

per day, $2.50 up, per week, special. 
Holland, L. D. Lockwood; capacity, 75; rates — per 

day, $2.50, per week, special. 
Hotel Jefferson; capacity, — ; rates — per day, $2.50, per 

week, $14.00 to $18.00. 
Ivy Cottage, Mrs. T. D. Brown; capacity, — ; rooms 

only. 
Keystone Cottage, Mrs. Benj. Cook; capacity, 30; rates 

— per day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Minaret Cottage, Mrs. Frank Darling; capacity, — ; 

rates — per day, $2.00, per week, $10.00 up. 
Palms, J. C. Stowers; capacity, 125; rates — per day, 

$2.50 to $4.00, per week, special. 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES 421 

Sans Souci, A. R. McKelvey; capacity, 20; rooms only. 
Seagle House, F. V. Seagle; capacity, 40; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special, 
Seminole Hotel; capacity, 100; rates — per day, $2.00, 

per week, special. 
The Tiffany, Mrs. C. Tiffany; capacity, — ; rates — per 

day, $1.50 to $2.00, per week, special. 
The Virginia, Mrs. A. L. Haiigh; capacity, 20; rates — 

per day, $2.00 up, per week, $10.00 to $15.00. 
Winter Garden 
Orange Hotel, W. R. Dixon; capacity, 28; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, special. 
Bell House, W. S. Bell; capacity, 10; rates — per day, 

$1.00 up, per week, special. 

Winter Park 
.Seminole Inn, R. P. Foley; capacity, 60; rates — per day, 

$3.00, per week, $15.00. 
Batchelor Cottage, D. N. Batchelor; capacity, 15; rates 

— per day, $1.50 up, per week, special. 
Ingram Cottage, Mrs. Ingram; capacity, 10; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 
The Chatauqua, B. S. Trude; capacity, 10; rates — per 

day, $1.00, per week, $5.00. 

Winter Haven 
Lake View, J. N. Ackerly; capacity, 75; rates — per day, 

$1.50, per week, special. 
Waulola Hotel, W. W. Mann; capacity, 25; rates — per 

day, $2.00, per week, $10.00. 



WOMEN'S CLUBS IN FLORIDA 

APALACHICOLA— The Philaco Club. President, 
Mrs. Joseph Messina; Secretary, Mrs. A. S. Mohr. 

BOYNTON— Boynton Woman's Club. President, 
Mrs. Charles T. Harper. 

BRADENTOWN and MANATEE— Friday Literary 
Club. President, Mrs. E. E. Coulson; Correspond- 
ing Secretary, Mrs. G. Riggin. 

COCOA — Public Library Association. 

COCOANUT GROVE— Folio Club. President and 
Treasurer, Mrs. Kirk Munroe; Secretary, Mrs. T. 
W. Mather. 

COCOANUT GROVE— Housekeepers' Club. Presi- 
dent, Miss Flora McFarlane; Secretary, Miss Anna 
Steere. 

CRESCENT CITY— Village Improvement Associa- 
tion. President, Miss Bessie A. Williams; Secre- 
tary, Mrs. Edith C. Miller. 

DAYTONA— The Palmetto Club. President, May E. 
Thompson; Corresponding Secretary, Emma L. P. 
Gammell. 

DeLAND— The Woman's Club. President, Mrs. W. 
H. Stewart; Corresponding Secretary, Mrs. F. W. 
Smith. 

FORT MYERS— Woman's Club. President, Mrs. 
Wm. Hanson; Corresponding Secretary, Miss B. 
S. Johnston. 

FEDERAL POINT— Village Improvement Associa- 
tion. President, Miss Mamie G. Atkinson; Cor- 
responding Secretary, Mrs. G. M. Wall. 

GAINESVILLE— The Twentieth Century Club. 
President, Mrs. J. M. Dell, Jr.; Corresponding 
Secretary, Mrs. George Morris. 

GREEN COVE SPRINGS— Ladies' Village Im- 
provement Association. President, Mrs. E. G. G. 
Munsell; Corresponding Secretary, Mrs. M. T. 
Holt. 

422 



WOMEN'S CLUBS IN FLORIDA 423 

HIGH SPRINGS— New Century Club. President, 
Mrs. Marvin Summers; Secretary, Mrs. G. A. Mc- 
Call. 

INTERLACHEN— Village Improvement Society. 
President, Mrs. G. E. Gillett; Secretary, Mrs. J. C. 
Jones. 

SOUTH JACKSONVILLE— Book Club. President, 
Mrs. T. E. Buck; Corresponding Secretary, Mrs. 
R. P. Nelms. 

JACKSONVILLE^Fairfield Improvement Associa- 
tion of Jacksonville. President, Mrs. W. C. Wam- 
boldt; Secretary, Mrs. W. J. Berry 

JACKSONVILLE— Woman's Club. President, Mrs. 
Wm, B. Young; Corresponding Secretary, Mrs. 
Roscrana M. Pollard. 

JASPER— Tabard Inn Library Club. 

LAKE CITY— Current Topic Club. President, Mrs. 
Ozie E. Fisher; Secretary, Mrs. C. J. Ryan. 

LAKE CITY— Woman's Club. President, Mrs. E. G. 
Allen; Corresponding and Recording Secretary, 
Mrs. T. L. Guerry. 

LEESBURG— Woman's Club. 

LAWTEY — Village Improvement Association. Presi- 
dent, Mrs. M. E. Randall; Secretary and Treasurer, 
Mrs. Helen Hill. 

LIVE OAK— Woman's Club. President, Mrs. Eugene 
Carter; Corresponding Secretary, Mrs. C. E. Hum- 
phreys. 

MIAMI— Woman's Club. President, Mrs. T. V. 
Moore; Corresponding Secretary, Mrs. Gillespie 
Enloe. 

OCALA— Woman's Club. President, Mrs. Wm. 
Hocker; Corresponding Secretary, Mrs. D. W. 
Davis. 

ORANGE CITY— Village Improvement Association. 
President, Mrs. W. L. Andrews; Recording and 
Corresponding Secretary, Mrs. E. A. Hill. 

ORMOND — Village Improvement Association. Presi- 
dent, Mrs. Macon Thornton; Corresponding Sec- 
retary, Mrs. Milo McNeal. 

OZORA — Village Improvement Society. President, 
Mrs. L. H. Eavey; Secretary, Mrs. W. W. Saun- 
ders. 



424 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

OZORA — Village Improvement Society. President, 

Mrs. S. K. Whitford; Secretary, Mrs. W. D. Wood. 
PALATKA—Woman's Club. President, Mrs. M. S. 

Brown; Corresponding Secretary, Mrs. W. P. 

Merriam. 
QUINCY— Worth While Club. 
SANFORD— Wednesday Club. President, Mrs. Geo. 

L. Maris; Secretary, Mrs. Sydney O. Chase. 
SANFORD— Welaka Club. President, Mrs. R. S. 

Keelor; Secretary, Mrs. J. C. McDaniel. 
SAN MATEO — Village Improvement Association. 

President, Mrs. J. A. Crosby; Secretary, Mrs. 

Charles Stockwell. 
ST. AUGUSTINE— St. Cecelia Club. President Mrs. 

Arnold Goldy; Secretary, Miss Estelle Deardorff. 
TALLAHASSEE— Woman's Club. President, Mrs. 

C. A. Cay; Secretary, Mrs. H. Roege. 
TAMPA— Club of Current Events. President. Mrs. 

C. W. Carlton; Corresponding Secretary, Mrs. C. 

J. Huber. 
TARPON SPRINGS— Cycadia Cemetery Association. 

President, Mrs. G. E. Noblit; Secretary and Treas- 
urer, Mrs. J. C. Beekman. 
TITUSVILLE— Progressive Culture Club. President, 

Mrs. Adhemar Brady; Secretary and Treasurer, 

Mrs. T. B. Wilson. 
WEST PALM BEACH— Entre Nous Club. President, 

Mrs. Sackett; Secretary, Mrs. Lyman, 
WHITE SPRINGS— Woman's Club. President, Mrs. 

M. M. Jackson; Corresponding Secretaries, Mrs. 

M. M. Wamboldt and Miss Naomi Neill. 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 

TERNAUX-COMPANS (Henri)— Voyages, relations 
et memoires originaux pour servir a I'histoire de 
la decouverte de I'Amerique publics pour la pre- 
mier fois en frangais. Paris, 1837-1841, in twenty 
volumes. 
Ribaut (J.) — Voyages a la Florida from Ternaux- 

Compans. Ser. 2, Vol. 10. 
Le Challeux (N.) — Histoire memorable du dernier 
voyage aux Indes, lieu appele la Floride, fait 
par le capitaine Jean Ribaut. In Ternaux- 
Compans (H.) Voyages, relations et memoires. 
Paris, 1837-41, 2 ser. Vol. 10, pp. ^47-300. Re- 
printed from Lyon J. Savgrain, 1566. 
Recueil de pieces sur la Floride, inedit, Paris: 
A. Bertrand, 1841, p. 368. (In Ternaux-Com- 
pans, Voyages, relations et memoires, Vol. 20.) 
Escalante (Fontaneda, Hernando d') — Memoire 
sur la Floride, ses Cotes et ses habitants 
. . . n.t.p. (In Ternaux-Compans, Voy- 
ages, relations et memoires. Paris, 1837-41. 
(Vol. 20) p. 9-42.) 
Soto (Fernando de) — Lettre ecrite par adelantade 
Soto, au corps municipal de la ville de Santi- 
ago, de rile de Cuba. (In: H. Ternaux- 
Compans, Voyages, relations et memoires, 
Paris, 1837-1841. (Vol. 20) p. 43-50.) 
Beteta (Gregorio de) — Relation de la Floride. (In 
Ternaux-Compans, Voyages, relations et mem- 
oires. Paris, 1837-41. (Vol. 20) p. 107-142.) 
Bazares (Guido de las) — Compte-rendu par Guido 
de las Bazares, du voyage qu'il fit pour decou- 
vrir les ports et les baies que sont sur la cote 
de la Floride. . . . Entreprise faite 1559. 
(In H. Ternaux-Compans, Voyages, etc. (Vol. 
20) p. 143-155.) 
Velasco (Luis de) — Lettre du vice-roi de la Nou- 
velle-Espagne . . . sur les affaires de la 
425 



426 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

Floride. (In Ternaiix-Compans, Voyages, etc. 

(Vol. 20) p. 157-164.) 

Lopez (de Mendoza (Grajoles), Francisco) — Mem- 
oire de I'heureaux resultat et du bon voyage 
que Dieu a bien voulu accorder a la flotte qui 
partit de la ville de Cadiz pour se rendre a la 
cote et dans la province de la Floride et dont 
etait general . . . Pero Menendez de 
Abiles. . . . Cette flotte partit — 1565. . . . 
(In Ternaux-Compans Voyages, etc. (Vol. 
20) p. 165-232.) 

Coppie d'un lettre venant de la Floride, en- 

voyee a Rouen, et dupuis au seigneur d'En- 
eron, ensemble le plan et portraiet du fort que 
les frangois y ont faict. Paris, 1565. (In H. 
Ternaux-Compans, Voyages, etc. (Vol. 20) 
p. 233-245.) 

— Histoire memorable du dernier voyage aux 
Indes lieu appele la Floride, fait par le Capi- 
taine Jean Ribault . . - . en I'au M.D. LXV. 
Lyon, 1566. (In Ternaux-Compans, Voyages, 
etc. (Vol. 20) pp. 247-300.) 

Gourgues (Dominique de) — La reprinse de la Flor- 
ide par le Cappitaine Gourgue. (In H. Ter- 
naux-Compans, Voyages, etc. (Vol. 20) p. 
301-366.) 
FRENCH (B. F.)— Historical Collections of Louisiana 

and Florida, including translations of original mss. 

with historical and biographical notes, new series, 

N. Y., 1869, second series 1875. 

Las Bazares (Guido de), and La Villafane, (Angel 
de) — Extract from (their) narratives describ- 
ing the bays and ports of the East and West 
Coasts of Florida; from the French transla- 
tion of the original memoires, 1559. (In 
French, B. F. Hist. Col. La. and Fla., 2nd ser. 
1875.) 

Gourgues (D. de)-i-La reprinse de la Floride. (In 
French, B. F. Hist. Col. La. and Fla., 2nd ser. 

1875.) 
Fontanedo (d'Escalante)— Memoir of the country 
and ancient Indian tribes of Florida;' trans, 
from Ternaux-Compans. Fr. trans, from the 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 427 

original memoir in Spanish. (In French, B. 
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tempt of the French (the Huguenots) to col- 
onize Florida, In French, B. F. Hist. Col. of 
La. and Fla., n.s. 1869.) 
Las Meras (Soils de) — Narrative of the massacre 
of the shipwrecked French colonists, and offi- 
cers and men of the expedition sent out under 
the command of Capt. Ribault, in 1565, to rein- 
force the colony; translated from the Spanish, 
with notes. (In French, B. F. Hist. Col. La. 
and Fla., 2nd ser. 1875.) 
HAKLUYT (Richard)— Collection of the early voy- 
ages, travels and discoveries of the English nation. 
London, 1582, and various reprints. 
— ^Conquest of Terra Florida by Don Ferdinando 
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translated from the Portuguese by R. Hak- 
luyt. Reprinted from Edition of 171 1. Lon- 
don, 1851. 

Certain Voyages to Florida and the later and 

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1587. In Hakluyt, Principal Navigations, 
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Laudonniere (Rene) — A notable history contain- 
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ard Hakluyt (1587). In Hakluyt (R.) Princi- 
pal Navigations, London, 1600, Vol. 3, pp. 301- 
319. 
Ribaut (J.) — Voyages a la Florida. See Hakluyt, 
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Floride contenant les trois voyages fait enicelle 
par certains Capitaines et Pilotes Frangois a la- 
quelle a este adjouste un quatriesme voyage fait 
par le Capitaine Gourgues, mise en lumiere par M. 
Basanier. Reprint 12 mo. Paris, 1853. 
LE CHALLEUX (Nicolas). Brief discours et histoire 



428 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

d'un voyage de quelqucs Frangois en la Floride. 
France, 1579. 

CABECA DE VACA (Alvar Nunez)— Relation Alvar 
Nunez Cabega de Vaga. Translated from the 
Spanish by B. Smith, New York, 1871. 

Naufragios de Alvar Nuiiez Cabeza de Vaca en la 

Floride, Valladolid, 1555, republished by Barcia in 
the Historiadores Primitivos de las Indias Occi- 
dentales, Tomo XL, Madrid, 1747. Translated en- 
tire with valuable notes and maps by Buckingham 
Smith, Washington, 1851. 

Relacion de los Naufragios y Comentarios. Illus- 

trados con varios documentos. Madrid, 1906. 

NOTICIOSA VERICA TRIUMFANTE Y VICTO- 
riosa relacion que declara, y da noticia del feliz 
vencimiento . . . que han tenido las catolicas 
armas de Carlos Tercero en la restauracion de la 
Plaza de Panzacola, la Florida, y ostras deferentes 
que va restaurando la Corona de Espaiia a el Rey 
Britanico, todo consequido a la solicitud, y cuy- 
dado de los Excmos Sres, D. Josef Solano, Gen- 
eral de Mar, y D. Bernando de Galvez, General de 
Tierra sucedido el dia 8 de Mayo de 1781, con todo 
lo demas que vera el curioso en esta. Primera 
part (segunda parte) (Sevilla, 178-?) 

HILTON (William) — A relation of a discovery lately 
made on the coast of Florida, by W. Hilton Com- 
mander. London, 1664. 

"VIRGINIA RICHLY VALUED BY THE DE- 
scription of Florida her next neighbor," trans- 
lated by Hackluyt, published both separately and 
in his collection Vol. V, and subsequently by Peter 
Force, Washington, 1846, and by Hackluyt Society, 
with a valuable introduction by J. T. Rye, London, 
1852. 

GOD'S PROTECTING PROVIDENCE MAN'S 
surest help and Defence, In the times of greatest 
difficulty and most Imminent danger, Evidenced 
in the Remarkable Deliverance of divers persons 
from the devouring Waves of the Sea, amongst 
which they suffered shipwrack. And also from the 
more cruelly devourmg jawes of the inhumane 
Cannibals of Florida. Faithfully related by one 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 429 

of the Persons concerned therein. Philadelphia, 
1699-1701, and a fourth edition 1751. London, 1700. 
German trans. Erstannliche Geschichte des 
Schiffbruches den einige Personen im Meerbusen 
von Florida erlitten, Frankfort, 1784, and perhaps 
another edition at Leipzic. 

GARCILLASSO DE LA VACA— La Florida del Inca. 
Historia de Adelantado Hernando de Soto, Gov- 
ernador y Capitan General de Reino de la Florida 
y de otros Heroicos Caballeros Espafioles y In- 
dies. Lisbona, 1605. 

ELVAS (Gentleman of) — Narratives of the Career of 
Hernando de Soto in the conquest of Florida as 
told by a Knight of Elvas, translated by B. Smith. 
New York, 1866. 

Relagam verdadeira dos trahalhos q ho geverna- 

dor do Fernado de souto e certos fidalgos Portu- 
gueses passarom no descobremeto da prouincia 
da Trodila. Agora nouamete feita per hu fidalgo 
Deluas (1557). Reprinted in: Academia das Sci- 
encias de Lisboa. Colleccao de opusculos reim- 
pressos relatives a historia das navegacoes dos 
Portugueges, Lisboa, 1841. 

Histoire de la Conquete de la Floride par les Es- 

pagnols sous F. de Soto, ecrit en Portugais par un 
Gentilhomme de la Ville d'Elvas, trad, (par Citri 
de la Guette), Paris, 1685. 

HERNANDEZ DE BIEDMA (Luys)— Relation of the 
conquest of Florida, presented by Biedma in 1544 
to the King of Spain in Council Translated from 
the original document. (In Elvas, Gentleman of. 
Narratives of the Career of de Soto. New York, 
1866, pp. 229-261.) 

A relation of what took place during the expedi- 
tion of Capt. Soto. (In discovery and conquest of 
Terra Florida. London, 1851. pp. 173-200.) 

Relation of the Conquest of Florida, presented in 

1544 to the King of Spain; translated from the 
original. (In Smith, Thos, B., Narratives, 1866.) 

GOURGUES (D. de)— La reprise de la Floride. Re- 
print. Bordeaux, 1867. 

FULL, A, reply to Lieut. Cadogan's Spanish hireling, 
etc., and Lieut. Mackay's letter concerning the ac- 



430 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

tion at Moosa. Wherein the Impartial account of 
the late expedition to St. Augustine is clearly vin- 
dicated by plain facts and evidence. By the au- 
thor of the Impartial account. London, 1743. 

This is one of a number of pamphlets written 
by partisans of S. Carolina, after the failure of 
Gen. Oglethorpe's expedition against St. Augus- 
tine in 1740 accusing him of mismanagement in 
that affair. 

ROBERTS (William) and JEFFERYS (Thomas). 
History of Florida with a Particular Detail of the 
several Expeditions made on that Coast, Collected 
from the best Authorities by William Roberts, 
Together with a Geographical Description of that 
Country by Thomas Jefferys. London, 1763 — pp. 
102. 

ROMANS (Bernard)— A Concise Natural History of 
East and West Florida. New York printed; sold 
by R. Aitken, Bookseller, opposite the London 
Coffee-House, Front Street, J776. 

BARCIA (A. G.) — Ensayo Cronologica para la His- 
toria general de la Florida, escrito por Don Ga- 
briel de Cardenas y Cano (Pseudonym). Madrid, 
1783. 

SCHOPF (J. D.)— Reise durch einige der mitlern und 
siidlichen Vereinigten Nordamerikanischen Staa- 
ten nach Ost-Florida und der Bahama-Inseln. Er- 
langen, 1788. 

GOULD (Geo.) — Observations on the Florida Keys, 
Reef and Gulf. London, 1796. 

BARTRAM (William)— Travels through North and 
South Carolina, Georgia, East and West Florida, 
and the Cherokee Country. Phil., 1791, 1794; Lon- 
don, 1792; Dublin, 1793. French trans, by P. V. 
Benoist, Paris, 1801, 1807. 

A DESCRIPTION OF EAST FLORIDA— A Journal 
upon a Journey from St. Augustine up the river 
St. Johns as far as the lakes. 4to., London, 1766, 
1769. Numerous letters interchanged between 
John Bartram and Peter Collinson relative to this 
botanical examination of Florida, embracing some 
facts not found in his Journal, are preserved in the 
very interesting and valuable Memorials of John 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 43i 

Bartram and Humphrey Marshall, by Dr. Wm. 
Darlington, p. 268, 599. (8vo., Phila., 1849.) 

CHASSEBOEUF DE VOLNEY (Constantin Frari- 
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United States of America; to which are annexed 
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the Scioto, certain Canadian colonies and the sau- 
vages or natives, translated from the French by 
C. B. Brown. Lond., 1804. 

Tableau du Climat et du Sol des Etats Unis Amer- 

ique suivi d'eclaircissemens sur la Florida, sur la 
colonic fran(;aise a Scioto, sur quelques colonies 
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— Paris, 1822. 

CUMING (Fortescue)— Sketches of a tour to the 
western country through the States of Ohio and 
Kentucky; a voyage down the Ohio and Missis- 
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territory and a part of West Florida. Pittsburg, 
1810. 

DISCOVERY OF FLORIDA, and an account of sev- 
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ELLICOTT (Andrew)— The Journal of an Expedition 
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Boundaries between the United States and the 
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Philadelphia, 1814. 

VERUS, pseud, of Francis Webb — Observations on the 
conduct of our executive towards Spain. Philadel- 
phia, i8i7'. 

Observations on the existing differences between 

the government of Spain and the United States. 
Philadelphia, 1817. . . 

West Florida. Philadelphia, 1817. 

ORRIS (Luis de) — Official correspondence between 
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Adams, Sec. of State, in relation to the Floridas 
and the boundaries of Louisiana; with other mat- 
ters in dispute between the two governments. 
London, 1818. 



432 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

NARRATIVE of a voyage to the Spanish main in the 

ship "Two Friends." London, 1819. 

WILLIAMS (John Lee)— View of West Florida, em- 
bracing its geography, topography, etc., with ap- 
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FLORIDA (The) Pirate, or, An account of a cruise in 
the schooner Esparanza, 1828. 

DARBY (William)— A Memoir of the Geography, and 
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delphia, 1821. 

FORBES (James Grant)— Sketches of the History and 
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NOTICES of East Florida, with an Account of the 
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eller in the Province. Printed for the Author. 
Charleston, 1822, pp. 105. 

VIGNOLES (Charles) — Observations upon the Flor- 
idas. New York, 1823. 

DOCUMENTS in proof of the climate and soil of 
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1835. 

COHEN (M. M.)— Notices of Florida and the Cam- 
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POTTER (Woodburne)— The war in Florida. Balti- 
more, 1836. 

The War in Florida; being an Exposition of its 

Causes and an accurate History of the Campaigns 
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staff officer. Baltimore, 1836. 

WILLIAMS (J L.)— The Territory of Florida; or 
Sketches of the Topography, Civil and Natural 
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dian Tribes from the first Discovery to the Pres- 
ent time. New York, 1837. 

A WINTER in Florida and the West Indies. New 
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A NAT^RATIVE of the Early Days and Remem- 
brances of Oceola Nikkanoche, Prince of Econ- 
chatte, a young Seminole Indian. Written by his 
Guardian. London, 1841. 

PREBLE (Geo, Henry) — The diary of a canoe expedi- 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 433 

tion into the Everglades and the Interior of South- 
ern Florida. New York, 1842, 

BALDWIN (Wm.)— Reliquic-e Baldwinianje; Selec- 
tions from the Correspondence of the late Wm. 
Baldwin, M.D., compiled by Wm. Darlington, 
M.D. Philadelphia, 1843. 

SPARKS (Jarud)— Life of John Ribault. Boston 
1845, in Vol. VII of Sparks America Biography. 

SCHOOLCRAFT (H. R.)— Notices of some antique 
earthen vessels found in Florida and in the caves 
and burial places of the Indians. New York, 1847'. 

SPRAGUE (J. T.)— The origin, progress and conclu- 
sion of the Florida War. New York, 1848. 

SEWALL (Rufus King)— Sketches of St. Augustine. 
New York, 1848. 

MURRAY (Hon. Miss Amelia M.)— Letters from the 
United States, Canada and Cuba. New York, 1856. 

IRVING (Theodore)— The Conquest of Florida by 
Hernando de Soto. New York, 1857. 

FAIRBANKS (Geo. R.)— The early history of Flor- 
ida. St. Augustine, Fla., Hist. Soc, 1857 — 32 pp. 
(Florida Historical Society.) 

History and Antiquities of the City of St. Augus- 
tine. New York, 1858. 

LAUDONNIERE (R. G.)— L'histoire notable de la 
Floride. Mise en lumiere par M. Basanier. Paris, 

1853- 

BRINTON (D. G.)— Notes on the Floridian peninsula, 
its literary history, Indian tribes and antiquities. 
Philadelphia, 1859. 

FACTS ABOUT FLORIDA— Plain truths over reli- 
gious signatures. New York. 

WHITEHEAD (C. E.)— Wild sports in the South; or 
the camp fires of the Everglades. New York, i860. 

GIDDINGS (Joshua R.)— The Exiles of Florida. Co- 
lumbus, O., 1858. New York, 1863. 

FLORIDA, Its climate, soil and productions; with a 
sketch of its history and the inducements to im- 
migrants. Jacksonville, 1868. 

"SAINT AUGUSTINE" by an English visitor. New 
York, 1869. 



434 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

STOWE (Harriet Beecher)— Palmetto Leaves. Bos- 
ton, 1873. I 

FAIRBANKS (G. R.)— History of Florida from its J 
discovery by Ponce de Leon in 1512 to the close 
of the Florida war 1842. Philadelphia, 1871. 

EAGAN (D.) — The Florida settler, or Immigrant's 
Guide. Tallahassee, 1873'. 

WYMAN (Jeffries) — Fresh water shell mounds of the 
St. John's river, Florida. Salem, 1875. 

GAFFAREL (P.)— Histoire de la Floride frangaise. 
Paris, 1875. 

LENTE (F. D.)— Florida as a health resort. New 
York, 1876. 

The Mounds of Florida — Jacksonville, 1877. 

FLORIDA, Its History, Conditions and Resources. 
Boston, 1878. 

AGASSIZ (Louis [Jean Rodolphe]) — Report on the 
Florida Reefs. Cambridge, 1880. 

FLORIDA, Immigration Bureau — Semi-tropical Flor- 
ida; Its climate, soil and .productions. Chicago, 
1880. 

TYLER (Daniel F.)— Where to go in Florida. New 
York, 1881. 

KENWORTHY (Charles J.)— Ancient Canal in Flor- 
ida. (In Smithsonian Institution Report, 1881, pp. 
631-635. Washington, 1883.) 

LE BARON (J. Francis)— Gold, silver and other or- 
naments found in Florida (In Smithsonian Insti- 
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1884.) 

HENSHALL (J. A. — Camping and cruising in Flor- 
ida. Cincinnati, 1884. 

McQUADE (James)— The Cruise of the Montauk to 
Bermuda, the West Indies and Florida. New 
York, 1885. 

REYNOLDS (Charles B,)— Old St. Augustine. St. 
Augustine, 1885. 

BRYAN (L. C.)— Information for emigrants and 
homeseekers in Florida. Savannah, 1886. 

NECT (S. Saunders) — The present and future produc- 
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RATHBONE (St. G.)— Paddling in Florida; or the 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 435 

Canoe Cruisers of the Gulf. New York, 1889 
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DAVIDSON (James Wood)— The Florida of To-day; 
a guide for tourists and settlers. New York, 1889. 

STUART ([Henry Windsor] Villiers)— Adventures 
amidst the equatorial forests and rivers of South 
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Florida, to which is added, "Jamaica Revisited.'* 
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BARBOUR (Geo. M.)— Florida for tourists, invalids 
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NORTON'S Handbook on Florida— New York, 1892. 

HOLMES (William Henry)- Earthenware of Flor- 
ida. Philadelphia, 1894. 

MOORE (C. B.)— Certain shell heaps of the St. John's 
River, Florida, hitherto unexplored. Philadelphia, 

1894. 
RUIDIAZ Y GARAVIA (Eugenic).— La Florida, su 

conquista y colonizacion por Pedro Menendez de 

Aviles. Madrid, 1894. 
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cluding a key to the water birds. Boston, 1896. 
WILLOUGHBY (H. L.)— Across the Everglades. A 

canoe journey of exploration. Philadelphia, 1898. 
COE (Charles H.)— Red Patriots, the Story of the 

Seminoles. Cincinnati, 1898. 
CHAMBERS (Henry Edwards)- West Florida and its 

relation to the historical cartography of the United 

States. 59 p., map. 
JOHNS HOPKINS UNIVERSITY studies in hist. 

and polit. sci. ser. 16, No. 5. Baltimore, 1898. 
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1900. 
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West Coast. Philadelphia, 1900. 
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Augustine, 1901. 
MOORE (C. B.) — Certain aboriginal remains of the 

Northwest Florida Coast. Philadelphia, 1901. 
Certain aboriginal mounds of the Florida central 



436 A GUIDE TO FLORIDA 

west coast; and certain aboriginal mounds of the 
Apalachicola River. Philadelphia, 1903. 

Certain aboriginal remains of the Black Warrior 

River ... of the lower Tombigbee River, 
Mobile Bay and Mississippi Sound. Miscellaneous 
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LOWERY (Woodbury)— The Spanish settlements 
within the present limits of the U. S. New York, 
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OBER (Frederick Albion) — Ferdinand De Soto and 
the Invasion of Florida. New York, 1906. 

FULLER (Hubert Bruce)— Thjs purchase of Florida, 
its history and diplomacy. Cleveland, 1906. 

AFLALO (Frederick George) — Sunshine and. Sport in 
Florida and the West Indies. London, 1907. 

DIMOCK (A. W.) and (J. A.)— Florida Enchantments, 
New York, 1908. 

VENABLE (W. H.)— Floridian Sonnets. Boston, 
1909. 

HISTORY (The) of Florida (1512-1909 by DeWitt 
Webb and others). (In: South (The) in the build- 
ing of the nation. A History of the Southern 
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FLORIDA Historical Society Publications Quarterly, 
Jacksonville, 1908-1909. 

DAVIS (F. A.)— Florida. 

ROGERS (Julia Ellen)— The Shell Book. 

WINTHROP (Packard)^Florida Trails. 

TORREY (Bradford)- Florida Sketch Book. 

GUNTHER (A. C.)— Susan Turnbull. Ballyho Bey. 

GREGG (W. H.)— When, Where and How to Catch 
Fish on the East Coast of Florida. 



INDEX 



Abbotts, 282. 

Aberdeen, 160. 

Acline, 291. 

Adams Creek, Ga., 351. 

Adams Creek, N. C, 341. 

Addison's Point, 366. 

Agnew, 307. 

Alachua, 303. 

Alafia, 282. 

Alafia River, 283. 

Albemarle Sound, 340, 344. 

Albemarle and Chesapeake 

Canal, 342. 
Alcazar Hotel, 123. 
Allapaha River, 255. 
Alligator Reef Light, 388. 
Altamaha Sound, Ga., 352. 
Altamonte Springs, 260. 
Alucha, 275. 
Alva, 301. 
Alvords, 246. 
Amelia River, 104, 355. 
American Shoal Light, 394. 
Anastasia Island, 117, 124, 

358. 
Ancilla, 238. 
Anclote, 312. 
Ankona, 159. 
Annapolis, Md., 335. 
Anthony, 279. 
Apalachicola, 244. 
Apalachicola River, 244. 
Apopka, 265, 281. 



Arcadia, 282, 290. 
Arch Creek, 177, 377. 
Archer, 276, 319. 
Arenosa Key, 315. 
Arlington, 319. 
Armour, 314. 
Arran, 243. 
Arredondo, 276. 
Arsenicker Keys, 383. 
Ash Pan Shoals, 372. 
Ashley River, S. C, 347. 
Ashmore, 243. 
Ashton, 266. 
Astor, 228. 259, 310. 
Athena, 317. 
Atlantic Beach, 106. 
Auburn, 247. 
Auburndale, 367. 
Aurantia, 153. 
Avoca, 255. 

B 

Bahia Honda, 379. 
Bahia Honda Key, 393. 
Baker's Mills, 318. 
Baldwin, 104, 274, 303. 
Balm, '283. 
Baltimore, Md., 335. 
Bamboo Key, 392, 
Banana Creek, 365. 
Banana River, 366. 
Barbourville, 255. 
Barker's Bluff, 368. 
Barker's Island, N. C, 345. 



437 



438 



INDEX 



Barnes Key, 389. 
Barnes' Sound, 383, 384. 
Bartow, 266, 267, 289. 
Bay City, 31 1- 
Bay Point, S. C, 348. 
Bayard, 108. 
Bayou Texas, 247. 
Bayport, 309. 
Baywoods, 253. 
Baxter, 105. 
Bear Creek, 246, 273. 
Bear River, Ga., 351. 
Bear's Cut, 380. 
Bear's Island, ^33. 
Beauford, 318. 
Beaufort, N. C, 341, 345- 
Beaufort, S. C, 349- 
Beaufort River, S. C, 349. 
Bell, 275. 
Bellamy, 254. 
Belleair, 240, 243. 
Belleview, 279. 
Belleview Hotel, 313. 
Bell's Island, N. C, 344- 
Benson, 192. 
Beresford, 258. 
Bergen Point, N. J., 329. 
Berkeley, Va., 336. 
Bessent, 303. 
Bethel Creek, 369. 
Beverly, 244. 
Beverly, N. J., 332. 
Big Cypress, 263, 301. 
Big Cypress Swamp, 218. 
Big Gasparilla Island, 296. 
Big Sarasota Pass, 288. 
Bike's Prairie, 358. 
Bird Island, 296. 
Bird Key, 377- 
Biscayne, 177. 
Biscayne Bay, 177, 377- 
Biscayne Bay Yacht Club, 
188, 378. 



Black Creek, 221. 
Black Point, 193, 221, 365. 
Blackwater River, 247, 
Blackwater River, N. C, 

343- 
Blackwater Sound, 385. 
Blanton, 311. 
Bloomfield, 311. 
Blountsville, 245. 
Blue Springs, 150, 229, 233. 
Bluff Shoals Light, N. C, 

340. 
Bluff ton, 229. 
Boardman, 305. 
Boca Chica Channel, 394. 
Boca Ciega Bay, 315. 
Boca Ciega Pass, 296. 
Bocagrande, 283, 296. 
Bocaratone, 173. 
Boca^ratone Lake, 375. 
Bogue Inlet, N. C, 34'6. 
Bogue Sound, N. C, 341. 
Bonaventure, 155. 
Bone Valley, 268. 
"Bone Yard," 236. 
Bootle's Bay, 386. 
Bordentown, N. J., 331. 
Bostwick, 253. 
Bowlegs Creek, 290. 
Bowlegs Key, 389. 
Bowling Green, 290. 
Boyette, 283. 
Boynton, 170, 374. 
Braddock's Point, Ga., 350. 
Bradentown, 285, 
Bradley Junction, 282. 
Brandon, 283. 
Brant Island Shoals Light, 

N. C, 340. 
Brickyard Creek, S. C, 348. 
Bfidesburg, Pa., 332. 
Bridges, 282. 
Briggsville, 149. 



INDEX 



439 



Bristol, Pa., 332. 
Bronson, 277. 
Brooker, 275. 
Brooklyn, 254. 
Brookville, 273, 311, 320. 
Broward, 104. 
Brownville, 290, 
Brunswick, Ga., 353. 
Brunswick River, Ga., 353. 
Buchanan, 290. 
Buckingham, 300. 
Buda, 275. 
Buena Vista, 178. 
Buffalo Bluff, 227, 255. 
Bull's Bay, S. C., 347- 
Bunker, 282. 
Bunnell, 127. 
Burlington, Pa., 332. 
Burnett's Lake, 275, 303. 
Burnside Beach, 106. 
Bush Point, 385. 
Bushnell, 281. 
Buttermilk Sound, Ga., 352. 



Cadillac, 316. 
Caesar's Creek, 382. 
Caledonia, 247. 
Calibogue Sound, S. C, 349. 
Caloosa, 301. 
Caloosahatchie River, 265, 

300. 
Calvinia, 290. 
Camp Cassadaga, 149, 
Campbell's, 266. 
Campbellton, 2'46. 
Campton, 24-7. 
Campville, 278. 
Cannon's, 254. 
Cantonment, 252. 
Cape Canaveral Shooting 

Club, 367. 



Cape Charles, Va., 335. 
Cape Cod, 366. 
Cape Fear, N. C, 346. 
Cape Malabar, 368. 
Cape Romain, S. C, 346. 
Cape. Sable, 388. 
Capetota, 238. 
Captiva Island, 296. 
Captiva Pass, 296. 
Card's Sound, 383. 
Carolina, 266. 
Carrabelle, 243. 
Carraway, 253. 
Carter's', 267. 
Gary's Ford Light, 383. 
Carysville, 246. 
Cason, 311. 
Cassia, 259. 
Castle Windy, 364. 
Caxambas Pass, 298. 
Cayo Huesco, 203. 
Cedar Bay, N. C, 344. 
Cedar Hammock, 259. 
Cedar Island, N. C, 345. 
Cedar Keys, 278. 
Celery City, 153. 
Center Hill, 311. 
Center Park, 106. 
Central Junction, 275. 
Central Supply, 200. 
Chaires, 238. 
Chandler, 310. 
Channel Key, 39^. 
Charleston, Md., 334. 
Charleston, S. C, 347. 
Charlie Oak Creek, 290. 
Charlotte, 283. 
Charlotte Harbor, 289, 291. 
Chassowikee River, 309. 
Chattahoochie River, 244. 
Chesapeake Bay, 334. 
Chesapeake Beach, Md., 335. 
Chesapeake City, Md., 234'- 



440 



INDEX 



Chesapeake and Delaware 

Canal, 333- 
Chester, Pa., 332. 
Chiloccohatchee River, 283. 
Chipco, 311. 
Chipola, 246. 
Chipola River, 245. 
Chocolaskee, 298. 
Choctowhatchee River, 246. 
Chokoluskee Key, 392^. 
Christiana Creek, Del., 

332. 
Chubb, 266. 

Church Flats, S. C, 347- 
Citra, 279, 305- 
Citronelle, 308. \ 

City Point, 153, 366. \ 

Clara, 317. 
Clarcona, 258, 266. 
Clark, 275, 319. 
Clayno, 275. 
Clay's Landing, 224. 
Clearwater, 313. 
Clearwater Harbor, 313. 
Clearwater Pass, 313. 
Clermont, 259. 
Cleveland, 290. 
Cline Key, 389. 
Clyates, 254. 
Clyde S.S. Line, ^19. 
Cocoa, 154, 366. 
Cocoanut Grove, 190, 379, 
380. 

Cocoa Point, 154. 

Coinjock's Bay, N. C, 344. 

Coleman, 281. 

Collier Bay, 298. 

Colohatchee, 173. 

Como, 255. 

Compass Lake, 246. 

Conant, 310. 

Conch Bar, 372. 

Connor, 235. 



Constable Point, S. L, 329. 
Continental Hotel, 209. 
Cook's Siding, 201. 
Cooper River, S. C, 349. 
Coosaw River, S. C, 348. 
Core Creek, N. C, 341. 
Core's Straits, N. C, 345- 
Corey, 243. 
Corley's, 310. 
Cory, 244. 

Coronado Beach, 148, 361. 
Cottondale, 245. 
Cotton Plant, 307. 
Covington, 243. 
Cow Creek, 153. 
Cowan's, 247. 
Crabbe Island, N. J., 330- 
Crane Creek, 155. 
Crawford, 105, 
Crawfordville, 243. 
Crawford's Point, 369. 
Crawl Key, 392. 
Crescent, 201. 
Crescent City, 219, 255. 
Crescent Shoal, 393. 
Crestview, 247. 
Croatan Light, N. C, 340. 
Croatan Sound, N. C, 340, 

344. 
Crocodile Hole, 377. 
Crooked River, 243. 
Croom, 311, 319. 
Cross Canal, N. C, 339. 
Cross City, 317. 
Cross Key, 385. 
Crow's Bluff, 229. 
Crown Point, 258. 
Crystal River, 308. 
Culpepper Landing, N. C, 

339- 
Cumberland Island, 105, 

353. 
Cumberland River, 353. 



INDEX 



441 



Currituck Sound, N. C, 

344- 
Curtis Mills, 243. 
Cuthbert, Ga., 243. 
Cuthbert Rookery, 391. 
Cutler, 193, 381. 
Cypress Gate, 234. 
Cypress Lake, 265. 
Cyrill, 254. 

D 

Dade City, 282, 320. 

Daho River, S. C, 348. 

Dallas, 280. 

Dania, 176. 

Davenport, 266. 

Daytona, 134, 208, 359. 

Daytona Beach, 138. 

Dead Lake, 245, 

Deep Creek, 227. 

Deep Creek, Va., 337, 34=2. 

Deerfield, 173. 

De Funiak Springs, 246. 

Delanco, N. J., S3^- 

DeLand, 141, 151, 255. 

Delaware Cit}', Del., 333. 

Delaware River, Pa., 332. 

Delaware and Raritan 

Canal, 331. 
De Leon Springs, 229, 255. 
Delespine, 153. 
Delray, 172, 374. 
Denham, 273. 
Denver, 255. 
Detroit, 194. 
Dilk's Bluff, 235. 
Dismal Swamp Canal, 337. 
Doboy Island, Ga., 352. 
Doboy Sound, Ga., 352. 
Doctor's Inlet, 253. 
Doctor's Lake, 253. 
Dolan, 244. 



Dothan, Ala., 246. 

Dougherty Mound, 46. 

Dover, 268. 

Drayton Island, 225, 228. 

Drexel, 310. 

Drifton, 238. 

Drum Point, N. C, 345. 

Dry Tortugas, 206. 

Duck Key, 393. 

Duck Point, 368. 

Dumbfoundling Bay, 376. 

Duncan's Landing, Va., 339. 

Dunedin, 313. 

Dungarvin, 254. 

Dungeness, 105, 353. 

Dunnellon, 276, 308, 319. 

Dupont, 127. 

Durant, 283. 

Duval, 104. 



Eagle Lake, 267. 

East Cape, 390. 

East Cape Sable, 393. 

East Lake, 310. 

East Lake Tohopekaliga, 

266. 
East Martello Tower, 394. 
East Melbourne, 155. 
East Mims, 152. 
East Palatka, 126, 226. 
East Weir, 310. 
Eau Gallic, 155, ^66, 
Eddy, 105. 
Eden, 159, 370. 
Edgar, 304. 

Edgemere Park, Pa., 332. 
Edgewater Grove, 227, 
Ehren, 311. 
Eichelberger, 310. 
Elbow Creek, 367. 
Eldora, 364. 



442 



INDEX 



Eldred, 159. 

Eldridge, 255. 

Elizabeth City, N. C, 339. 

Elizabeth River, Va., 336, 

342f. 
EHzabethport, N. J., 329. 
Elizey, 277. 
Elkton, 125. 
Ellaville, 238. 
Ellentown, 285. 
Ellerbee, 303. 
Elliott's Beach, 381. 
Ellithorpe, 254. 
Englewood, 265, 288. 
Enos, 369. 

Enterprise, 153, 230, 258. 
Enville, 273. 
Erie, 284. 

Escambia Bay, 247. 
Escambia River, 251. 
Espanola, 127. 
Estero Pass, 298. 
Eugene, 317. 
Eureka, 234. 
Eustis, 259. 
Evans, 244. 
Evinston, 305. 
Everglade, 194. 
Everglades, 210. 
Excelsior Park, 267. 



Fairbanks, 276. 
Fairfield, 254, 304. 
Falco Junction, 247. 
Faraby Island, N. C, 343. 
Featherbed Bank, 382. 
Federal Point, 126, 224. 
Fenholloway River, 317. 
Fernandina, 104, 353. 
Fisherman's Point, 367. 
Fiftone, 275. 



Fivay, 2^^, 3ii- 

Five Mile Landing, Va., 

339- 
Flamingo, 389. 
Flint River, 244. 
Flomaton, Ala., 252. 
Flora, 273. 
Florahome, 253. 
Florala, Ala., 247. 
Floral City, 319. 
Florence, 244. 
Florence, N. J., 331. 
Florence Villa,, 266. 
Florida Ostrich Farm, 102. 
Florida Passage, Ga., 351. 
Forest City, 258. 
Fort Barker, 317. 
Fort Barrancas, 248, 251. 
Fort Bassenger, 265. 
Fort Brooke, 233. 
Fort Capron, 156. 
Fort Carroll, 267. 
Fort Choconieta, 290, 
Fort Clinch, 104. 
Fort Dade, 272. 
Fort DeSoto, 272. 
Fort Dinand, 301. 
Fort Drane, 254. 
Fort Dulany, 295. 
Fort Fannin, 316. 
Fort Francis Barker, 317. 
Fort Gadsen, 244. 
Fort Gates, 228. 
Fort George Island, 107, 
. 354- 

Fort Green, 282. 
Fort Kissimmee, 265. 
Fort Lauderdale, 174, 2>7^- 
Fort McRae, 251. 
Fort Marion, 118. 
Fort Mason, 228, 259. 
Fort Meade, 289. 
Fort Michael, 251. 



INDEX 



443 



Fort Myers, 267, 292. 

Fort Ogden, 290. 

Fort Pickens, 250. 

Fort Pierce, 158, 2>70. 

Fort Reed, 258. 

Fort San Carlos, 248. 

Fort Simon Drum, 301. 

Fort Taylor, 206. 

Fort Thompson, 290, 294, 

301. 
Fortress Monroe, Va., 335. 
Forty-foot Bluff, 234. 
Fountain, 246. 
Fowey Rocks Light, 382. 
Fowler, 238. 
Francis, 304. 
Frazier's Beach, 273. 
Frederica River, Ga., 352. 
Frontenac, 153. 
Fruita, 160. 
Fruitland, 310. . 
Fruitville, 288. 
Fulford, 177. 
Fuller's, 258. 



Gainesville, 254, 276, 304. 
Galloway, 320. 
Garbacon Shoals, N. C, 341. 
Gardner, 290. 
Garfield, 153. 
Garytown, 273. 
Gasparilla Island, 283, 297. 
Gasparilla Pass, 291. 
Genoa, 255. 
Georgetown, 228. 
Georgetown, S. C., 347. 
Georgiana, 366. 
German American, 246. 
Gibson, 243. 
Gifford, 156. 

Gilbert Bar Yacht Club, 
370. 



Gilchrist, 291. 

Gilmerton, Va., 337. 

Glencoe, 149. 

Glen Ethel, 258. 

Glenwood, 229. 

Gomez, 160, 

Gordonville, 267. 

Gore's Landing, 235. 

Gosling, 159. 

Gotha, 265. 

Goulds, 193. 

Graham, 254. 

Grahamville, 235, 

Grandin, 254, 

Grand Island, 259. 

Grant, 156. 

Grant's Farm, 156, 368. 

Gray, 369. 

Grassell's Point, N. J., 329- 

Grassy Key, 202, 390, 392. 

Great Bridge, Va., 343. 

Great Marsh Island, 354. 

Great Pocket, 37i- 

Great Sawgrass Lake, 231. 

Green Cove Springs, 219, 

222, 253. 
Greenpoint, N. C, Z^Z. 
Greensboro, 244. 
Greenville, 238. 
Greenwood, 255. 
Gretna, 244. 
Grier, 282. 
Guano River, 357. 
Guest, 244. 

Gulf Junction, 308, 319. 
Guilford, 254. 
Gull Point, 247. 
Gull Shoals Light, N. C, 

340. 



H 



Hague, 304. 



444 



INDEX 



Haines, 266. 
Hainesworth, 275. 
Half Moon, 319. 
Halifax Creek, 359. 
Halifax River, 359. 
Halifax River Yacht Club, 

360. 
Hallandale, 177. 
Hammer Point, 386. 
Hammock Grove, 266. 
Hampton, 254, 275. 
Hampton Roads, Va., 335. 
Hampton Springs, 317. 
Hanson, 238. 
Harbor Island Shoals 

Light, N. C, 345. 
Harbor Viev^, 291. 
Hardee, 273. 
Hart S.S. Line, 225, 23^. 
Haskell, 289. 
Hastings, 125, 224. 
Havana, 243, 244. 
Havre de Grace, Md., 334. 
Hawkinsville, 229. 
Hawk's Channel, 383, 393. 
Hawks Park, 151. 
Hawthorne, 278, 304. 
Hayden, 288. 
H'aynesworth, 303. 
"Head-wind Stretch," 362. 
Hedges, 104. 
Heirs, 303. 
Helena, 310. 
Hell Gate, 372. 
Hellgate, Ga., 351. 
Hell's Half Acre, 234. 
Hernando, 319. 
Herrin Canal, Va., 339. 
Hertzel, 266. 
Hibernia, 221. 
Hickman, 254. 
Hickory Bluff, 291. 
Highland, 275. 



Highland Park, 255. 
High Springs, 303, 319. 
Hildreth, 318. 
Hillsboro River, 269, 320, 

361, 375- 
Hilton Head Island, S. C, 

349. 
Hines, 317. 
Hinson, 243. 
Hobe Sound, 160, 372. 
Hodge's Landing, N. C, 

339- 
Hog Key, 313. 
Hogan, 106. 
Hogarths, 223. 
Holder, 319. 
Holmes' Creek, 246. 
Hollister, 304. 
HomelcWid, 289. 
Homestead, 193. 
Homosassa, 307, 308. 
Hoogstract 247. 
Hopewell, 282. 
Horn Creek, 366. 
Horse Landing, 228. 
Hosford, 244. 
Hotel Alcazar, 123. 
Hotel Cordova, 123. 
Hotel Ormond, 130. 
Hotel Ponce de Leon, 122. 
Hotel Royal Palm, 294. 
Houston, 238. 
Howe's Island, 298. 
Hoyt, 105. 
Hu comer, 151. 
Hudson, 273, 311. 
Huldock's 367. 
Hull, 282. 
Huntington, 255. 
Hutchinson's Island, S. C, 

348. 
Hypoluxo, 170. 
Hypoluxo Island, 374. 



INDEX 



445 



I 



Idlewild, 229. 

Independent S.S. Line, 219. 

Indian Bluff, 234. 

Indian Creek, 2>77- 

Indian Key, 200, 388. 

Indian River Inlet, 369. 

Indian Rock, 273. 

Indian Springs, 149. 

Indianola, 154, 366. 

Interlachen, 304. 

Inverness, 319. 

lola, 234. 

Irvine, 254. 

Islamorada, 200, 379, 387. 

Island Grove, 279. 

Island Lake, 258. 

Isle of Palms, S. C, 347- 

Isleworth, 265. 

Istachatta, 319. 



Jackson, 243. 
Jackson's Pond, 247. 
Jacksonville, 99, 104, 105, 
106, 108, 219, 2yj, 253, 

ass- 
Jacobs, 246. 
Jacob's Wells, 235. 
James River, Va., 335. 
Jane Jay, 290. 
Jarrell's Bay, N. C, 345. 
Jasper, 255. 318. 
Jekyl Island, Ga., 353. 
Jena, 317. 
Jennings, 255, 
Jensen, 159, 370. 
Jessamine, 263. 
Jewfish, 196, 199, 379. 
Jewfish Creek, 385. 
John's Lake, 259. 



Johnson's Creek, Ga., 352. 
Johnson's Pond, o.'jy. 
Jones' Point, 366. 
Jonesboro, 317. 
Joshua Creek, 290. 
Juliette 308, 319. 
Junction, 253. 
Juniper, 244.. 
Jupiter Light, 372. 
Jupiter Narrows, 371. 

K 

Kalamazoo, 153. 

Kanapaha, 276. 

Kathleen, 320. 

Kelly's Mills, 304. 

Kendal, 192. 

Kendrick, 305. 

Kent, 105. 

Key Largo, 200, 383. 

Key Vaca, 202. 

Key West, 203, 394. 

Keystone Park, 311. 

Keysville, 282. 

Kilkenny Creek, Ga., 351. 

King's, 367. 

King's Grove, 105. 

Kingsford, 268. 

Kingsley Sound, 355. 

Kinsey, 282, 

Kirkwood, 254. 

Kissimmee, 263. 

Knights, 282. 

Knight's Key, 202, 393, 

Komoko, 316. 



La Belle, 301. 
La Costa Key, 296. 
La Crosse, 275. 
Lady Lake, 310. 



446 



INDEX 



La Grange, 153. 

Lake Apopka, 259. 

Lake Beresford, 229, 257. 

Lake Burnett, 303. 

Lake Butler, 254, 265, 303, 

311, 312. 
Lake Charm, 281, 258. 
Lake City, 237, 254, 318. 
Lake Crescent, 255. 
Lake Conway, 263. 
Lake Cyer, 245. 
Lake Disston, 255. 
Lake Drummond, Va., 337. 
Lake Du Maurier, 311. 
Lake Eola, 261. 
Lake Flirt, 302. 
Lake Garfield, 289. 
Lake Geneva, 254. 
Lake George, 225, 228. 
Lake Grandin, 254. 
Lake Griffin, 280. 
Lake Griffim', 310. 
Lake Hancock, 289. 
Lake Harney, 230. 
Lake Harris, 280, 310. 
Lake Hatchineha, 265. ' 
Lake Helen, 149, 257. 
Lake Hicpochee, 302. 
Lake Jesup, 230, 258. 
Lake Lochloosa, 279. 
Lake Louise, 255. 
Lake Levy, 254. 
Lake Lucerne, 261. 
Lake Mabel, 376. 
Lake Mary, 260. 
Lake Miccosukee, 238. 
Lake Monroe, 229, 230. 
Lake Ochesee, 245. 
Lake Okeechobee, 265. 
Lake Panasoffkee, 281. 
Lake Pasadena, 282. 
Lake Pethlachoco, 304. 
Lake Sampson, 254. 



Lake Stemper, 273. 

Lake Sue, 261. 

Lake Thonotosassa, 268. 

Lake Tohopekaliga, 263. 

Lake Tsala-Apopka, 319. 

Lake Tuscawilla, 254. 

Lake Weir, 307, 310. 

Lake Winnie, 261. 

Lake Winnimisselte, 257. 

Lake Worth, 161, 373. 

Lake Worth Creek, 372. 

Lake Worth Inlet, 373. 

Lake Wyman, 374. 

Lakeland, 267, 289, 320. 

Lakeville, 258. 

Lanark, 243. 

Lantana, 169, 374. 

Largo, 314. 

Larkin, 192. 

Laurel- Hill, 247. 

Lawrence, 244. 

Lawrence Creek, N. J., 331. 

Lawtey, 275, 

Layarello Creek, Ga., 351. 

League Island, Pa., 332. 

Lee, 238. 

Leesburg, 258, 259, 280, 310. 

Lellman, 314. 

Lemon City, 178. 

Lennon, 277. 

Leonard, 311. 

Leonton, 243. 

Leroy, 308. 

Lexington, 319. 

Lignum Vitae Key, 388. 

Likely, 160. 

Lily, N. C, 339. 

Limona, 283. 

Linden, 259. 

Lisbon, 259. 

Little Card Point, 384. 

Little Clearwater Pass, 314. 

Little Don Island, Ga., 351. 



INDEX 



447 



Little Gasparilla Island, 

297. 
Little Mud River, Ga., 352. 
Little Orange Lake, 279. 
Little River, 177. 
Littman, 244. 
Live Oak, 238, 255, 318. 
Lloyds, 238. 
Lochloosa, 279. 
Lofton, 104. 
Long Island, 387. 
Long Key, 201, 379, 389. 
Long Key Fishing Camp, 

201. 
Long Moss Spring, 245, 
Long Shoals Light, N. C, 

340. 
Longwood, 260. 
Lottiesville, 316. 
Loughman's, 266. 
Love joy's Mills, 259. 
Lowell, 305. 
Lower Metacumbe Key, 

200, 388. 
Loyce, 273. 
Lukens, 1^^. 
Lulu, 254. 
Lumberton, 320. 
Lutterlok, 243. 
Lyrata, 152. 

M 

McAlpin, 318. 
McClenny, 2^7. 
McGinty's Key, 387. 
Mcintosh, 305. 
McLane's, 265. 
McPherson, 303. 
MacKinnon, 263. 
Mackay's Creek, S. C, 349. 
Macon, Ga., 105. 
Madison, 238. 



Magnolia Bluff, 247. 
Magnolia Springs, 222, 253. 
Magnolia Point, 366. 
Maitland, 260. 
Malabar, 156, 231, 368. 
Manatee, 285. 
Manatee Creek, 371. 
Manatee River, 283. 
Mandarin, 221. 
Mangrove Point, 366. 
Manhattan Beach, 106. 
Manhattan Island, 228. 
Man-of-War Key, 389. 
Matanzas Inlet, 125, 358. 
Matanzas River, 358. 
Marathon, 202, 379, 392. 
Marco, 298. 
Marco Key, 298. 
Marco Pass, 298. 
Marcus Hook, Pa., ZTt^- 
Mariana, 245. 
Marietta, 274. 
Mariners' Harbor, S. I., 

329. 
Marion, 318. 
Martel, 307. 
Martin, 305. 

Martin's Creek, N. J., 330. 
Martin's Key, 309. 
Marvina, 283. 
Marydea, 263. 
Mascotte, 259. 
Massacre, 281. 
Mayport, 106, 219, 354. 
May River, S. C, 349. 
Maytown, 153. 
Maxville, 275. 
Medina, 287. 
Medulla, 268. 
Melbourne, 155, 367. 
Merediths, 277. 
Merritt, 154. 
Merritt's Island, 365. 



448 



INDEX 



Miami, 179, 378. 
Micanopy, 254, 305. 
Micanopy Junction, 305. 
Micco, 156, 368. 
Middle Cape, 390. 
Middle River, 375. 
Middle Shoal, 390. 
Mid-Rivers Country Club, 

159- 
Midway, 200, 244. 
Military Park, 155, Z^l- 
Mill Bayou, 246. 
Millard, 320. 
Miller's Wharf, 227. 
Millerton, 274. 
Millview, 252. 
Milton, 247. 
Mims, 153. 
Minerville, 265. 
Minneola, 259. 
Minnetonka Inn, 192. 
Modello, 193. 
Moffatt, 290. 
Molasses Key, 393. 
Momac, Ga., 105. 
Monroe, 2.s8. 
Montague, 310. 
Montbrook, 276, 319. 
Monticello, 238. 
Morehead City, N. C, 34i- 
Morgan's Island, S. C, 348. 
Morriston, 276. 
Moses Creek, 358. 
Mosquito Inlet, 141, 361. 
Mosquito Lagoon, 364. 
Mount Dora, 259. 
Mt. Pleasant, 244. 
Mt. Tabor, 305. 
Moultrie's Creek, 358. 
Mud Lake, 376. 
Mud River, Ga., 352. 
Mud River, S. C, 349. 
Mulberry, 268. 



Mullet Key, 315. 
Munden, N. C, 343. 
Munyon's Island, 161, ZIZ- 
Muscoque, 252. 
Myaka River, 283. 
Myrick, 238. 

N 

Naples, 297. 
Naraja, 193. 
Narcoossee, 266. 
Narrows, 369. 
Nassau Sound, 354. 
Neals, 275. 
"Needle's Eye," 233, 
Nelson's Bay, N. C, 345. 
Neshaning Creek, N. J., 

Neuse River, N. C, 341. 
Newbern, N. C, 341. 
New Brighton, S. I., 329. 
New Brunswick, N.- J., 331. 
Newbury, 303, 316, 319. 
Newcastle, Del, 333. 
Newfound Harbor Key, 

394-. 
Newport News, Va,, 335. 
New Pass, 288. 
Newport River, N. C, 341. 
New River, 175, 244, 254, 

376. 
New River, S. C, 349. 
New River Inlet, N. C, 

346. 
New Smyrna, 143, 360, 361. 
New Teakettle Creek, Ga., 

352. 
New Topsail Inlet, N. C, 

346. 
New Upsala, 259. 
New York, 329. 
Nocatee, 282, 290. 
Norfolk, Va., 335- 



INDEX 



449 



Norris' Cut, 380. 
North Creek, S. C, 348. 
North Edisto River, S. C, 

348. 
North Jupiter Narrows, 

371. 
North Landing River, Va., 

343. 
North Newport River, Ga., 

352. 
North River, 357. 
North River, N. C, 344, 

345. 
Norva Wharf, Va., 339, 
Nowatney, 2^2- 
Number Nine, 134. 



Oak Hill, 152, 364. 
O'Brien, 318. 
Odessa, 311. 

Ocala, 236, 279, 289, 305. 
Ocala Forest Reserve, 307. 
Ocala Junction, 307. 
Ocean Pond, 237. 
Ocklawaha, 31,0. 
Ocklawaha River, 232. 
Ocklocknee, 243. 
Ocklocknee River, 244. 
Ocoee, 265. 
Ogden, 238. 

Ogeechee River, Ga., 351. 
Ojus, 177- 
Okahmmpka, 310. 
Okaloacoochie Slough, 301. 
Okefenokee Swamp, 238. 
Old Cape Florida, 381. 
Old Point Com ort, Va., 

335. 
Old Rhodes Key, 383- 
Old Spanish Slave Market, 

116, 



Old Tampa Bay, 269. 

Old Teakettle Creek, Ga., 

352. 
Old Town, 316. 
Old's Point, Va., 343. 
Olmstead, 367. 
Olustee, 237. 
Olustee River, 254. 
Ona, 282. 
Onoco, 287. 
Onoro, 258. 
Orange City, 150, 257. 
Orange City Junction, 150. 
Orange Heights, 278. 
Orange Lake, 233, 279, 305, 

307. 
Orange Mills, 224. 
Orange Park, 22^1, 253, 259. 
Orange Point, 228. 
Orange River, 300. 
Orchid, 369. 
Orient, 268. 
Oriole, 311. 
/Drlando,' 261, 280, 281. 
Ormond, 128, 359. 
Ormond Hotel, 208. 
Ortega, 220. 

Osceola's Old Field, 235. 
Oslo, 156. 
Osprey, 288. 

Ossabaw Island, Ga., 351. 
Osteen, 153. 
Ostrich Farm, 102. 
Otter Creek, 277. 
Oviedo, 281, 258. 
Owanita, 301. 
Owensboro, 282. 
Oxford, 280. 
Ozona, 313. 



Pablo Creek, 354, 357. 



450 



INDEX 



Pacetti's, 361. 
Padlock, 318. 
Paine's Landing, 234. 
Paine's Prairie, 304. 
Palatka, 127, 208, 233, 2^4, 

253, 289, 304. 
Palm Beach, 162, 373. 
Palm Springs, 258. 
Palm View, 285. 
Palma Ciia Park, 273. 
Palmer, 276, 288. 
Palmetto, 285. 
Palmetto Grove, 235. 
Pamlico Sound, N. C, 340. 
Panama City, 246. 
Panama Park, 104.. 
Panasoffkee, 281. 
Paoli, 258, 259. 
Paradise, 304. 
Paris Island, S. C, 349. 
Park Place, 308. 
.Parker's Landing, 228. 
.Parrish, 284. 
Parton's Island, 46. 
Pas a Grille, 315. 
Pasco, 311. 
Pasquotonk River, N. C, 

339. 
Patapsco River, Md., 335. 
Patuxent River, Md., 335. 
Pauway, 289. 
Peace River, 283, 289. 
Pebbles, 268. 
Peck's Lake, 371, 2>1^- 
Peghorn, 266. 
Pelican Island, 156, 369. 
Pellicier's Creek, 358. 
Penn's Neck, N. J., zZi- 
Pensacola, 248. 
Perdido Bay, 251. 
Perdido River, 252. 
Perrine, 193. 
Perry, 243, 303, 317. 



Perth Amboy, N. J., 330. I| 

Petit Chou Point, Ga., 351. ■' 

Philadelphia, Pa., 332. 

Phosphoria, 268. 

Picolata, 223. 

Pierce, 282. 

Pigeon Key, 386, 393. 

Pilot-town, 107. 

Pindar's, 200. 

Pine Castle, 263. 

Pine Island, 291, 295, 297. 

Pine Key, 315. 

Pine Mount, 318. 

Pineda, 155. 

Pineland, 259, 297, 317. 

Pinellas Peninsula, 313. 

Pinetta, 238. 

Pineway, 247. 

Piney Point, 221. 

Piney Point, N. C, 345. 

Pitman's Creek, 244. 

Pitt's Island, 161. 

Placida, 283. 

Plantation, 200. 

Plantation Key, 387. 

Plant City, 268, 282. 

Planter, 200, 379, 386. 

Pleasant Landing, Va., 343. 

Ploughshare Pond, S. I., 

330. 
Plover Point, 366. 
Plummer, 105. 
Pomona, 255. 
Pompano, 173. 
Ponce de Leon, 246. 
Ponce de Leon Hotel, 122, 

207. 
Ponce Park, 141, 360. 
Poole's Island, Md., 334. 
Port Leon, 243. 
Port Norfolk, Va., 335. 
Port Orange, 142, 360. 
Port Richmond, S. I., 329. 



INDEX 



451 



Port Royal, S. C, 349- 
Port Sewall, 160, 370. 
Port Tampa, 273, 320. 
Port Tampa City, 273. 
Portsmouth, Va., 335. 
Portuguese Joe's, 370. 
Potomac River, Md., 335- 
Prairie, 161. 
Prairie Creek, 254. 
Prall's Island, N. J., 329- 
Preston, 255. 
Princeton, 193. 
Pritchards, 153. 
Proctor, 305. 
Pumpkin Key, 383. 
Pung's Ferry N. C, 343- 
Punta Gorda, 267, 291. 
Punta Rassa, 294. 
Putnam Hall, 254. 

Q 

Quarry, 200. 
Quay, 156. 
Quincy, 244. 
Quisisana Casino, 223. 

R 

Rabbit Key, 389. 
Raccoon Creek, Pa., 332. 
Raccoon Key, Ga., 351. 
Rachel Key, 392. 
Ragged Keys, 382. 
Rahway River, N. J., 329. 
Raiford, 303. 

Ramshorn Creek, S. C, 349. 
Rantowle's Creek, S. C, 347. 
Rappahannock River, Va., 

335. 
Raritan River, N. J., 330. 
Raucocus Creek, N. J., 332. 



Reddick, 305. 

Remington Park, 222. 

Rialto, 301. 

Richland, 320. 

Rio, 159- 

River Inlet, S. C, 347- 

River Junction, 244. 

Riverside, 220. 

Riverton, N. J., 332. 

Riviera, 161, z72>- 

Roanoke Island, N. C, 340. 

Roanoke Marshes Light, N. 

C, 340. 
Rochelle, 226, 304. 
Rock Harbor, 200. 
Rock Mines, 319. 
Rock Point, 368. 
Rock Springs, 308. 
Rockdale, 192. 
Rockledge, 154, 366. 
Rockwell, 308. 
Rocky Point, 254. 
Rodas, 319. 
Rogers, 149. 
Rolleston, 227. 
Romeo, 308, 319. 
Romerly Marsh Creek, Ga., 

351- 
Rose, 243. 
Roseland, 156, 
Rosewood, 277. 
Rossville, S. 1, 330. 
Rough-and-Ready Cut, 234. 
Round Lake, 246. 
Royal Palm Hotel, 180. 
Royal Poinciana Hotel, 163, 

372- 
Royal Shoals, N. C, 345- 
Rubicon Key, 382. 
Runnymede, 266, 
Rural, 273. 
Russell's, 253, 388. 



452 



INDEX 



Rutledge, 258. 



Sagano, 311. 
St. Andrew's Bay, 245. 
St. Andrew's Sound, 353. 
St. Augustine, 25, 109, 207, 

357. 
St. Catherines, 281, 311. 
St. Catherine's Sound, Ga., 

351- 
St. Cloud, 266. 
St. Francis, 229. 
St. George's, Del., 333. 
St. Helena Sound, S. C, 

348. 
St. James Island, 243. 
St. Joseph Key, 313. 
St. Leo, 311. 
St. Lucie, 156, 369. 
St. Lucie Inlet, 370. 
St. Lucie River, 157. 
St. Mark's, 243. 
St. Nicholas, 106. 
St. Petersburg, 314. 
St. Philip's Island, S. C, 

349. 
St. Simon's Island, Ga., 

352. 
St. Simon's Sound, Ga., 

352. 
Salem, 317. 
Sampson City, 254. 
Sampson Junction, 275. 
Samville, 291. 
San Antonio, 311. 
San Carlos Hotel, 252. 
San Carlos Bay, 295. 
San Marco, 118. 
San Mateo, 127, 208, 227. 
San Pablo, 106. 



San Sebastian River, 358 

Sanderson, 237. 

Sandy Key, 393. 

Sandy Point, 365. 

Sandy Point, N. J., 330. 

Sanford, 153, 229, 258. 

Sanibel Island, 295, 296. 

Santa Fe, 303. 

Santa Fe River, 254, 303, 

319- 
Santa Rosa Island, 248, 251. 
Santos, 279. 

Sapelo Sound, Ga., 352. 
Sapp, 303. 
Sarasota, 287. 
Saratoga, 228. 
Satsuma, 255. 
Savannah, Ga., 350. 
Savamiah River, Ga., 349. 
Saxon, 243. 

Sayerville, N. J., 330. 
Schuylkill River, Pa., 332. 
Seabreeze, 135. 
Sea Side, 312. 
Sebastian, 156, 368. 
Sebastian Creek, 368. 
Seffner, 268. 
Severn River. Md., 335. 
Seville, 255. 

Sewall's Point, 160, 370. 
Shark Shoal, N. C, 341. 
Sharpes, 153. 
Sharp's Point, 366. 
Shell Beach, 287. 
Shell Creek, 290. 
Shell Key, 388. 
Shingle Creek, 265. 
Shingleton, 311. 
Shooters Island, N. J., 329. 
Sidney, 283. 
Simonton, 254. 
Sisco, 255. 



3 

a> 
so 

3 




INDEX 



455 



Wades, 319. 

Wade's Point Light, N. C, 

340. 
Wakulla, 243. 
Wakulla Springs, 242, 24-3. 
Waldemere, 310. 
Waldo, 275. 
Wallacetown, Va., 339. 
W^allkill, 253. 
Walton, 159, 370. 
Wannee, 275, 303. 
Wappoo Creek, S. C, 347. 
Wardburn, 253. 
Ward's Point, S. I., 330. 
Warnell, 281. 
Warrior River, 317. 
Wassaw Sound, Ga., 351. 
Wauchula, 290. 
Waycross, Ga., 318. 
Webster, 311. 
Weekinachee River, 309. 
Weir Park, 310. 
Weirsdale, 279, 310. 
Wekiva Creek, 259, 
Wekiva Springs, 151. 
Welaka, 228, 233. 
Welborn, 238, 255. 
Welcome, 282. 
Welchton, 246, 310. 
Wessner, 253. 
Westville, 246. 
West Farm, 238. 
West Horseneck Shoal, 390. 
West Jupiter, 160. 
West Martello Tower, 394. 
West -Norfolk, Va., 335. 
West Palm Beach, 161, 373. 
West Road Landing, Va., 

339. 
West Summerland Key,. 

393. 
West Tampa, 269, 320. 



West Tocoi, 224, 253. 
White City, 159, 37^- 
White House, 274. 
White Point, S. C, 348. 
White Springs, 237, 254. 
Whitewater Bay, 386. 
Wilcox, 316. 
Wildwood, 258, 280. 
Williamson, 247. 
Williston, 276, 319. 
Williford, 275. 
Willoughby Spit, Va., 335. 
Willow, 283. 
Wilmington, Del., 333. 
Wilmington River, Ga., 350. 
Wilmington River, N. C, 

347. 
Windemere, 265. 
Winfield, 254. 
Winn, 255. 
Winston, 268, 290. 
Winston, 268, 290. 
Winter Garden, 258. 
Winter Haven, 267. 
Winter Park, 260, 281. 
Winyau Bay, S. C, 347. 
Wiscon Junction, 273. 
Withlacoochee, 282. 
Withlacoochee River, 308. 
Woodall Siding, 194. 
Woodbridge Creek, S. L, 

330. 
Woodville, 243. 
Worthington Springs, 303. 
Wright's River, S. C, 349. 
Wylie, 277. 



Yalala, 311. 
Yamato. 173, 374. 
Ybor City, 268, 271, 283. 
Yoeman's, 283. 



456 INDEX 

York, 307. Z 

York River, Va., 335. 

Yorktown, Va., 335. Zellwood, 281. 

Youkon, 253. Zindar Landing, 228. 

Youngstown, 246. Zolfo, 290. 

Yoiiman's, 268, 

Yulee, 104. 



OCT 23 1912 



INDEX 



453 



Sister Creek, 355. 

Silver Springs, 235, 279, 

307. 
Skull Creek, S. C, 349. 
Sleepy Creek, N. C, 345. 
Smith Lake, 310. 
Smith's Creek, 359. 
Smoking Point, S. I., 330. 
Snake Creek, 177, 376, 387. 
Sneads, 245. 
Soldier Key, 382. 
Sombrero Key, 393. 
Sorrento, 259. 
South Amboy, N. J., 330. 
South Amelia River, 355. 
South Bocagrande, 283. 
South Edisto River, S. C, 

348. 
South Jacksonville, 106, 108. 
South Jupiter Narrov^s, 

South Matanzas River, 

358. 
South Mills, N. C, 339- 
South Newport River, Ga., 

352. 
South River, N. J., 330. 
South Side, 190, 254. 
Southport, N. C, 346. 
Spann's Siding, 246. 
Sparr, 279. 
Spring Glen, 106. 
Springhill, 243. 
Sponge Harbor, 312. 
Spruce Creek, 148, 360. 
Starke, 275, 303. 
State Line, 246. 
Steamboat Creek, 383, 384. 
Steel City, 246. 
Steinhatchee, 317. 
Steinhatchee River, 317.' 
Stemper, 273. 



Stewart's Landing, Va., 

339. 
Stirrup Key, 392. 
Stokes, 320. 

Stono River, S. C, 347. 
Straits of Dardanelles, 234. 
Stuart, 160, 371. 
Suffolk, Va., "^yj. 
Sulphur Springs, 273. 
Sumatra, 244. 
Summerfield, 279, 310. 
Sumner, 277. 
Sumterville, 281. 
Susquehanna River, Pa., 

334. 
Sutherland, 312. 
Suwanee River, 238, 278, 

318. 
Suwanee Springs, 238, 318. 
Suwanee Valley, 254. 
Svea, 247. 

Sweetwater Key, 308. 
Swift's Creek, 254. 
Sylvan Lake, 258. 



Tacoma, 254, 305. 
Tacony, Pa., 332. 
Taft, 263. 
Tallahassee, 238. 
Tampa, 268, 283, 311, 320. 
Tampa Bay Hotel, 268, 272. 
Tarpon Sound, 385. 
Tarpon Springs, 273, 311. 
Tarrytown, 259. 
Tavares, 258, 259, 280. 
Tavernier, 200. 
Tavernier Creek, 387. 
Tavernier Island, 387. 
Taylorsville, 259. 
Tea Table Key, 388. 



454 



INDEX 



> 



Teluga River, 244. 

Ten Thousand Islands, 39i- 

Terra Ceia Island, 285. 

Terra Ceia Junction, 284. 

Terrell, 282. 

The Breakers, 165. 

The "Haulover," 152, 364. 

The "Narrows," 156, 368. 

Theresa, 254. 

Thomasville, 244. 

Thonotosassa, 268. 

Thoroughfare Bay, N. C, 

345- 
Thunderbolt, Ga., 350. 
Thurston, 275. 
Tice, 291. 

Tifflin's Wharf, 227. 
Tiger Bay, 268, 290. 
Tiger Hammock, 359, 
Tildenville, 259. 
Tillman, 156, 
Titusville, 152, 258, 365. 
Tocoi, 2g8, 224. 
Tolchester Beach, Md., 335. 
Tomoka Cabin, 133. 
Tomoka Ferry, 132. 
Tomoka River, 130, 359. 
Tompkinsville, S. I., 329. 
Tooke Lake, 311, 
Toronto, 258. 
Torrey, 290. 
Torresdale, Pa., 332. 
Tottenville, S. I., 330. 
Trapwell, 282. 
Trenton, 316. 
Trilby, 259, 311, 320. 
Trump, 244, 
Tufts. 259. 

Tuft's Pond, N. J., 330. 
Turkey Creek, 283, 303, 368. 
Turkey Point, Md., 334. 
Turnbull, 153. 

■• u 



Turnbull Bay, 361. 
Turner's, 301. 
Turtle Mound, 45, 151, 
Tuscaville, 258. 
Tuscawilla, 254. 
Twin Cypress, 234. 
Twin Keys, 389. 
Twin Lake, 259. 
Twin Oaks, 150. 
Twin Palmettoes, 234. 
Tybee River, Ga., 351. 
Tybee Roads, Ga., 349. 
Tyler, 316. 

U 

Upcohall, 300. 

Upper Metacumbe Key, 200, 

388. 
Usepp'a Island, 291, 296. 



Valdosta, Ga., 105, 238, 255. 

Valkaria, 156. 

Varcen, 243. 

Varnes, 303. 

Yarn's Crossing, 259, 

Venice, 284, 288. 

Vernon River, Ga., 351. 

Vero, 156. 

Viking, 156. 

Villanova, 266. 

Volusia Bar, 228. 

W 

Wabasso, 155. 
Wacahoota, 254. 
Wacasassa River, 277. 
Wacissa, 243. 

Wademelow I^'ver, S. C, 
348. 



viH 



